Daily Loaf

Pedigree:

Beecher’s began in 2002, less like a farmhouse start-up than the cheesemaking equivalent of a brew pub. Owner Kurt Beecher Dammeier took over a space in the popular Pike Place Market in Seattle, complete with a fully exposed cheese kitchen and cafe. Now, using local milk from herds around Seattle, Beecher’s has racked up a wide array of national and international awards for its cheeses.

Beecher’s Flagship is stored covered, in 40-pound blocks, but every year some of the curds are set aside to make 18-pound reserve “truckles” (small wheels), which are aged in open air and develop a natural mold rind. Although almost identical to cheddar, the Flagship has an added culture (often used in Gruyere and Emmental cheeses) that diminishes bright acidity and accents richness.

Taste:

The first taste of Beecher’s Flagship Reserve is a slap in the face for all those pounds of supermarket cheese you’ve bought over the course of your life, a multitude of flavors and textures assaulting your senses. It has a sharp bite up front, immediately tempered by toasted nuts and caramelized butter, just sweet enough to accent the salt. The open-air aging adds a variety of flavors from the natural molds, ranging from pungent hints of blue to subtle vegetal notes. Even with all of that, though, the Flagship Reserve is a mellow cheese, with a finish that last longer than most wines. It is a spectacular, if understated cheese.

Uses:

Beecher’s Flagship Rserve is such a damn fine cheese, the best way to enjoy it is by itself. Pair it with a California syrah, where the ripe, dark fruit will mesh well with the mellow character of the cheese.

For a decadent meal, make mac and cheese with the Flagship Reserve. Beecher’s has made a name for itself by selling its own version — including the cheesmaker’s Jack for contrast — through its website.

(Beecher’s Flagship Truckle is available at Whole Foods ($24.99/lb), or online from beechershandmadecheese.com)

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