Cheese Course: Fresh Brillat-Savarin
October 15, 2009 at 11:38 am by Brian Ries
Pedigree:
Created in the 1930’s, this cheese is named after the famed violinist, capital punishment advocate, magistrate, food writer and wanted man Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. It’s de rigeur at this point to quote one of Brillat-Savarin’s famed culinary one-liners, so let’s go with: “A meal without some cheese is like a beautiful woman with only one eye.” He loved his cheese, so it makes sense that a versatile triple-creme, Brie-ish cheese like this — which is easily worked into a variety of dishes and serving styles — should bear the man’s name.Brillat-Savarin is made from cow’s milk and comes in fresh versions and slightly aged styles that develop a natural, soft rind.
Taste:
If brie, Philly cream cheese, fresh chevre, and farmhouse butter engaged in unholy procreation, they would spawn a cheese like Brillat-Savarin. It is intensely rich, but with just enough zing to fool you into forgetting that you’re ingesting a massive amount of fat. Think Boursin, but refined, without all those fussy herbs and seasonings.
Uses:
Fresh Brillat-Savarin is one of the most useful cheeses in your repertoire. Add aromatic herbs and seasonings to make your own, decadent Boursin-style spreads. Slather it on crusty artisan bread and top with caviar, or smoked salmon, or cucumber. Have trouble deciding on butter or cream cheese for your morning bagel? Use Brillat-Savarin instead for the best of both worlds. You can also dollop it into soup just before serving, although it will melt instantly if you try to cook with it.
Depending on how you serve Brillat-Savarin, Champagne is the classic match; the richness of the cheese is cut by the lean wine and refreshing carbonation, while the hint of brightness matches the acidity in the wine. Especially, of course, if you pair it with caviar. Otherwise, a great rose would work, as do mimosas.
Brillat-Savarin is available at Whole Foods for $19.99/pound.
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