Daily Loaf

I’m a Tampa native, so I’m not completely privy to what outsiders think of when our city is mentioned. Based on overheard airplane conversations and comments from distant Facebook friends, I would guess it distills down to three things: Bern’s Steakhouse, the Tampa Bay Buccaneers and Mons Venus. So if I were to tell you about a restaurant that is across the street from the world-famous Mons, a great many people, including tourists, would know precisely where I’m talking about.

Next to a defunct Athenos, and with a yellow awning obscured by shrubbery, Thai Terrace is almost literally a hidden gem. Inside you’ll find a traditional Thai restaurant with wood-paneled walls, colorful tablecloths and cushions accented with gold. Blue and white salt and pepper shakers shaped like elephants can be marched across the tables and a tiny chalkboard on the wall proclaims: “No MSG.”

The service is casual but friendly and the menu features some pan-Asian choices such as pho (noodle soup, usually Vietnamese) and fried rice, although the latter has been co-opted into the Thai culinary pantheon with the addition of fish sauce and lime. With so many selections, you may need to ask for recommendations.

Tom Kha is coconut milk soup flavored with lemongrass and ginger, dotted with red onions, mushrooms, peppers and your choice of meat or tofu. The broth is rich and complex; a perfect start. The soft spring rolls contain an excess of lettuce and the rice paper is too sticky, so better to save these for a Vietnamese restaurant.

Pineapple Lake Curry with shrimp — a yellow curry that’s both sweet and spicy — is a lovely, soupy entrée with a serious kick, although the spice level ordered was medium. Shrimp fried rice is heaped onto the plate, with properly cooked shrimp and rice that’s a tad bland. The Pad Prik King with chicken has beautiful vegetables and visible flecks of chili, with ginger and mild curry paste. The texture of the chicken is fine, but with a definite freezer-flavor. It actually tastes too much like chicken and would be better if it had time to absorb the sauces.

Still, an accepted trade-off to keep the dinner bill reasonably low. Lunch specials are available for less than $7, while many beef, chicken or pork dinner entrees are $8.95. Soups, salads, seafood and a long list of appetizers are also available.