Daily Loaf

My most recent baking project has become creating the perfect crumb cake. There are so many elements that come into play here- texture, topping, density, and overall taste are all vital in formulating a masterpiece. I’m happy to say that I just may be onto something with this recipe.

Fall is high time for all things apple. Nothing makes your house smell better when baking or adds more moisture to your goodies. I choose Granny Smith as a rule, because they have a great tartness about them and retain their texture even when baking for substantial periods of time. Plus, if I have any left over they make the best snack when sliced and served with a baked round of brie, a drizzle of honey and some fresh baguette.

You are probably familiar with the classic pastry technique of incorporating very cold, cubed butter into streusel toppings, to create a divine crumb for these types of cakes. I’ve found amazing results instead, in melting the butter and using it to partially dissolve the sugars, bring out the essence of spices, and bind your crumble topping. This way, by the time you are ready to top your batter, the butter has semi-hardened once again, and it’s easy to crumble it into perfection. The pecans add fantastic crunch, and the richness of the brown sugar is the perfect companion to the buttery cake below. Read the rest of this entry »

The most important men in my life all have one thing in common: they are, among other things, die hard green chile fans. Watching my dad, grandpa and my uncles at the dinner table anticipating the goodness that was green chile stew, sticks in my mind like a movie reel. As young girls my sister and I would try to hang in there with the heat, knowing it was surely in our blood, but usually passed our plates onto the guys and opted for something less spicy.

Now as I look back on the tastes and flavors that shaped my palate, this is definitely one of them. Roasted Hatch green chile is divine to those raised in the Southwest. I’ve also seen newbies get hooked- and give into the craving of the pungent, roasty, mild spice of New Mexico green chile. Read the rest of this entry »

The summer in San Francisco arrives late, in September and October, as the days get longer and the cold bay breezes subside. While the East coast is planning for fall, we sit in our city and soak in the rare sunshine that has been so graciously bestowed upon us, knowing that November brings  fall and winter temps for about 7 months.

Warm weather and clear skies inspire me to my Florida seafood roots, and alternative cooking methods which point me towards the grill. With your outdoor cooking skills, basic recipes and a great cocktail in hand, you can entertain a crowd of two, or the masses.

This recipe calls for simple flavors, combined to create a starter that is light, fresh and flavorful. If you’ve never experimented with aioli, give it a try. It can add so much to the plate as a sauce and sublime, acidic, creamy accent to your dish. Read the rest of this entry »

Coconut is divine. It is so flavorful and versatile, at home as a crust on giant prawns or a decadent dessert to end a meal. When it is flaked, sweetened, and toasted it leaves such a distinct mark on any dish it’s become one of my favorite ingredients to use.

When I set out to make my first coconut cream pie several years ago, I struggled with the idea of the baking method it would involve. It seemed that blind baking a crust and cooking the filling separately would be such a task, but that filling and then baking the pie would never result in the creamy goodness I was after. So I researched a lot of different recipes, and created this version which really is so simple and yields a confection worthy of the case in any fine bake shop.

At its most basic level, this dessert is rich vanilla custard with real coconut and a flaky, traditional hand-made crust. If you can get past the initial fear of making your own pastry and just nail down the technique, it will be well worth it, so take this extra step and you won’t be sorry. Cold is the key — cold work surface, clean cold hands (your best tools!), and most of all, very cold butter.

Here’s the recipe: Read the rest of this entry »

One of the best things you can do to impart flavor to vegetables is to roast them in the oven on high heat. With just a little salt and pepper and a drizzle of olive oil, you let the oven do the work and reap the rewards of a great soup base or side dish. It’s a foolproof and healthy way to bring fresh seasonal vegetables into your diet, and can be modified based on your preferences and what is available throughout the year.

This particular recipe is a hearty roasted tomato soup and is a simple and cozy dish with some crusty bread or a grilled cheese sandwich on the side. You can take this method and substitute mushrooms, butternut squash, or a variety of other options for the tomatoes. Feel free to swap out the Romas and vine-ripened tomatoes for whatever looks good at the store or is on hand at the time. The crushed tomatoes used here also help to ensure that a full flavor is achieved even if the fresh ones are lacking, so look for fire roasted if possible to optimize this boost.

Here’s the recipe: Read the rest of this entry »

When I began eating red meat again after a 10-year hiatus, the satisfaction was immediate. I ordered a dry-aged, grilled filet topped with seared foie gras and a cabernet-truffle sauce at Harris’ Steakhouse in San Francisco’s Pacific Heights. All I remember from that epic first bite is taking in the rush of rich flavor, leaning my head back with closed eyes, and falling deeply in love.

Since then I’ve only been brave enough to buy and prepare filet mignon at home on one occasion. I’m afraid that the bar is just too high, and so I leave it to the experts and opt instead for a selection that is more home-cook friendly.

Also known as bavette to the French, flank steak Read the rest of this entry »

I recently discovered what happens when you hit hot caramelized onions with a sweet, pungent vinegar and add some fresh herbs. The result is a mouthwatering concoction good for flatbread, layered inside quiche, topping grilled burgers, and many other tasty treats. The onions were the inspiration for this recipe, a rich and flaky puff pastry tart with creamy goat cheese and thyme.

Take care to dust your work surface with flour before rolling out the puff pastry, as it tends to stick and cause your rounds to be misshapen. I typically roll it out on a sheet of parchment paper and use a saucer as a stencil, cutting around it with a sharp knife. The less you handle the pastry, and the colder it is when it goes into the oven, the better.

You could also roast fresh garlic cloves until they’re soft and golden, and sub them for the garlic powder in the goat cheese filling if you have an extra hour for prep. I assembled this batch of tarts early in the day, covered them with a moist paper towel and refrigerated them until baking time. It’s an easy and relatively light lunch dish or dinner with a mixed green salad alongside. Plus, since I was only cooking for two, the leftover filling is waiting in the fridge to be stirred into warm penne for dinner later in the week.

Here’s the recipe: Read the rest of this entry »

When you take the flavors of classic french toast and marry them with the techniques used to make bread pudding, the result is quite magical. It’s also super convenient, as you can prepare it the night before then bake and serve hot from the oven in the morning without any fuss. All you need alongside is a good cup of coffee and some crisp, salty bacon to start your day off with a smile.

Although many recipes turn to french baguette when making a bread pudding-style dish, my preference is for a richer and more delicate selection in the bakery aisle. I used buttery brioche for this batch, however I typically reach for challah bread if I’m able to find it. Your bread selection will make the difference between a more flaky, puffed result vs. a more crumbly and dense pudding.

Here are some ideas on how to add another dimension to the dish, and customize it depending on what you’re in the mood for:

~Mix in chopped pecans or walnuts before baking to add some crunch

~Toss julienned apples in with the bread mixture and serve with cinnamon infused whipped cream

~Macerate fresh strawberry or peach slices with a sprinkling of sugar, and spoon over the top after baking

~For a rich topping, whip mascarpone cheese with vanilla bean and sugar until sweet and creamy

The recipe: Read the rest of this entry »

Chicken pot pies are not exclusive to cold weather or winter mealtimes. They are homey pockets of comfort fit for any weeknight dinner, and even elegant entertaining. When I’m having dinner guests, I look to a main course that serves more than one purpose so that I’m not in the kitchen all night while my friends drink all of the wine. This recipe comes together in one pot, and as long as you have the mise en place ready it’s a pleasantly quick preparation. Each serving offers the meat, vegetables, sauce and starch that would otherwise mean cooking 3 to 4 separate dishes.

You’ll likely be surprised at the abundance of flavor in the filling, which comes from taking care to caramelize the veggies in the first step, and using freshly ground black pepper. If you prefer a lighter crust then feel free to use standard pastry for the top, but rest assured that the flaky richness and volume of the puff is what gives the dish its awesome presentation.

If you’re cooking for two, you can freeze the extra filling and use it on another occasion. It also makes a delicious base for chicken and dumplings, or a simple chicken soup when some white wine and additional stock are poured on in.

Here’s the recipe: Read the rest of this entry »

Few classic home style staples are as simple and satisfying as a rich, hearty chili. This recipe literally takes 20 minutes to prepare and the simmer does the rest. Once you have the magical formula down pat, it’s the easiest one pot meal I’ve found to pull together on a lazy day.

There are several combinations to consider when composing an epic chili. Endless formulas of meats, beans, spices and tomato varieties are available and each bring their own flavor profile to the party. I prefer a savory tri-fecta of ground turkey, pork, and andouille combined with equal proportions of kidney and pinto beans. As for the spices, this recipe features red chile powder along with essential cumin and cayenne pepper for a little kick on the tongue. Feel free to experiment with ancho chile powder or other varieties, and fire roasted crushed tomatoes if you can find them.

Should you have the time I’d suggest doing your prep early in the afternoon, and leaving this dish on a low heat or in a slow cooker until dinner time. Serve some warm cornbread with honey-butter, or quick Jiffy mix corn cakes alongside as the perfect accompaniment. Optional garnishes of sour cream, grated cheddar and avocado are great additions to smooth out the spice and salty goodness as well.  

Here’s the recipe:

Classic Chili

1 red onion, chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 pound ground pork
1 pound ground turkey
4 andoullie sausages, sliced
3 tablespoons chile powder
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 teaspoon onion salt
1 tablespoon ground cumin
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 (16 ounce) can kidney beans
1 (16 ounce) can pinto or chili beans
1 (16 ounce) can diced tomatoes
1 (28 ounce) can crushed tomatoes 
Garnishes (optional): Sour cream, chopped scallions, avocado slices, shredded cheddar

In a large pot, saute the onion with the olive oil and butter over medium heat until soft and beginning to caramelize. Add the ground pork, turkey and andouille sausage, and cook until browned. Incorporate the spices and stir to coat all of the meat. Add the beans and tomatoes and adjust seasonings to taste. Cover and simmer on low heat for at least 30 minutes, stirring often, or several hours if time allows. Serve hot and garnish with options listed above.

If you have one sure thing in your baked goods recipe arsenal, it should be this cookie. It really will never let you down, take too much of your time, or leave you less than pleased if you follow a few sound baking basics. The best part, other than eating them fresh from the oven with a tall glass of cold milk, is the quick simplicity of the preparation.

Start with butter that is nearly room temperature and be sure to whip the first four ingredients well into fluffy. This will give the cookie a light and flaky texture when folded into the sifted flour. Plus, the ratio of brown to white sugar keeps it chewy far beyond the cooling process as long as they are not over-baked. Bear in mind that they are meant to be big, so don’t be shy about using a large scoop and limiting them to eight or less per baking sheet. 

Here’s the recipe:

Read the rest of this entry »

Cupcakes have been hip and trendy on the food scene for quite some time now, and have taken over specialty bake shops which produce them in every flavor imaginable. From simple chocolate to lemon, coconut and red velvet, these indulgences are one of the biggest crowd pleasers you can bring to celebrate special occasions, or surprise an office full of hungry co-workers. This particular variety was inspired by an especially gorgeous batch of plump blackberries that I stumbled upon, along with yet another workplace baking commitment.

When it comes to creating the perfect cupcake, simplicity is best. I like to make a basic vanilla cake that can be paired with a variety of frostings and toppings depending on your mood, and will be subtle enough in flavor to carry an extra rich buttercream. The cake featured here calls for whole eggs along with an equal ratio of egg whites to keep it light and fluffy and maintain the pure color. The use of the vanilla bean makes a big difference in the fragrance and overall taste of the cake as well, so go ahead and splurge in the spice aisle. After you’re done scraping out the tiny seeds, throw the pod into a mason jar with baker’s sugar, keep it in the cupboard and use the vanilla-infused sweetness to add an extra dimension to your recipes.

Recipe after the break: Read the rest of this entry »

When it comes to being a Howard, there are some things that are just inherent. Enjoying Southwestern food is one of them — due to the amount of extended family and roots planted in New Mexico and the cuisine there. I’ve been eating enchiladas since I was old enough to chew. Red or green, spicy or mild, they are truly a staple of my culinary heritage.

My paternal Grandmother taught me much of what I know when it comes to cooking. I vividly remember watching her making red enchiladas, which were always very simple. They amounted to dried chilies, de-seeded and pureed with olive oil and water in a blender. Fresh corn tortillas were doused in hot oil before a quick swim in the sauce, then layered with grated cheddar and baked until bubbly. The green version was a different story and always involved fire-roasted chilies with pulled chicken and a varying degree of spice that was dependent on that season’s batch.

When I decided to reinvent this dish, marrying the green and red became compulsory. Read the rest of this entry »

Each time I find really nice sea scallops available at the market*, my recipe wheels immediately start turning. There’s a slightly majestic quality to their clean, delicate flesh and unique flavor which I simply cannot resist. So, this week’s shopping trip yielded not only the most fantastic scallops I’ve seen in a while, but also a new dish that is fresh and satisfying.

There are a few rules to live by when cooking scallops, and once you have it down it really is very simple. Be sure to dry them completely after washing as excess water in the pan will cause them to steam and sacrifice the deep golden crust that creates such an impressive presentation. The pan must also be very hot to achieve this signature scallop sear. Take care to remember the two minute rule as a cooking timeline as well- overdone scallops are rubbery and tough, and no fun to eat.

This recipe combines the classic pairing of scallops and bacon with a topping based loosely on a variation of maque choux. The flavors left in the pan after cooking the bacon and mushrooms will marry with the cream to create a rich and tasty sauce. After all, it is my firm belief that every good scallop deserves an equally good sauce.

Here’s the recipe:

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Since moving far away from the Florida scene I find that certain tastes take me back to my home state, my roots and the people there. Pure and simple, this pie is one of the premiere staples of Sunshine State cuisine. I created the recipe for my stepfather several years ago in a quest to prove that I could, indeed, bake the perfect key lime pie. Since then I’ve served it to family, friends, and coworkers who have agreed that it is the ideal compliment to freshly whipped, vanilla-laced cream and a great cup of coffee.

The tartness is uniquely key lime, so don’t be fooled by widely available Persian limes or another variety when making this dessert. I recommend juicing the delectable fruit as your first step, since you’ll find that these tiny jewels are time and labor intensive and produce a minimal yield for their volume. While the exact origin of the pie is unknown, it is clear that it embodies the uncomplicated, laid back culture of the Florida Keys. Prior to 1930 fresh milk was unavailable in the isolated Keys so cooks easily incorporated canned sweetened condensed milk into recipes, which gives this pie its smooth and creamy texture. Read the rest of this entry »