Daily Loaf

Check out Vegan Thanksgiving part 1 and part 3.)

Vegan desserts are perhaps the most daunting undertaking of any new- or non-vegan, inspiring such questions as…

What should I use to replace eggs/milk/butter?

Can I bake for the same amount of time?

How do I make cookies that don’t taste like cardboard?

How do I know if my sugar is vegan?

I hear that some flour has bone in it. Truth or fiction?

Well, dearies, I don’t presume to have all the answers, but as both the maker and eater of countless vegan treats, I do know that there are ways to get around many of these questions. Read the rest of this entry »

(Check out the Vegan Thanksgiving part 2 and part 3.)

I spent three Thanksgivings poring over homemade dishes at my Jewish grandma’s house, wondering if she understood entirely what I meant when I told her I was  vegan.

“Sarah, honey, you’ll eat the turkey, won’t you?” she would ask me.

“No, grandma, vegans don’t eat turkey.”

“But you’ll eat the green bean casserole.”

“No, grandma. It has milk in it. I don’t eat milk.”

“You’ll eat the sweet potatoes, then.”

“They’ve got marshmallows, grandma. I don’t eat marshmallows.”

This is where she became concerned. Because, you see, my grandma is old. She turned ninety this year. Thanksgiving is already tough for a woman her age. She’s got all this mixing and stirring and lifting to do—she doesn’t want any extra work, and to her, dreaming up vegan dishes is a challenge.

But it doesn’t have to be. Vegan Thanksgiving is no harder than carnivore Thanksgiving. You don’t even have to hunt down a Tofurky (even though they’re not that hard to find these days). You know what? I’ll be honest. Tofurky is kind of gross, anyway. And it’s a cop-out. Don’t buy a Tofurky.

“So, what should I do, then?” you ask. “My crazy vegan sister-in-law is coming over. I never know what to make for her!”

Shhhh, calm down. There’s no need to fret. Just make shish kebabs.

Shish kebabs? For Thanksgiving?

Oh, yeah. Shish kebabs have everything a good Thanksgiving meal needs. They have: Read the rest of this entry »

(It’s unofficial Apple Week here in CL’s Food Section! For more fall apple season ideas, check out Apple Pecan Crumb Cake, Buttermilk Cornmeal Pancakes with Caramel Apple Topping, Apple Fennel Salad, Apple Tartlet, Butternut Squash Apple Cinnamon Crumble, and Deb’s Mom’s Apple Cake.)

It’s hard to believe, but Thanksgiving is right around the corner. You might not even realize this as the malls and supermarkets are already breaking out their Christmas finery. For the last few years, retailers have just skipped right over the Thanksgiving season, jumping right into Santa, Rudolph and the Grinch! When did this trend happen – and better yet – why? Is Thanksgiving not worthy of a little pomp and circumstance? Or is it because Thanksgiving doesn’t inspire most folks to run around spending lots of money they don’t have on lots of things they don’t need? Maybe that’s it. Maybe the merchants believe that the earlier we start seeing those Holiday decorations and displays, the sooner we’ll all start shopping until we drop. Either way, it kind of offends me.

Thanksgiving may not be the flashiest holiday of the year, but in my humble opinion, it is one of the most significant. In its own understated way, Thanksgiving represents home and family and love. It’s a time for reflecting upon all that is good in our lives, giving thanks for all the blessings we have been given. I realize that during these harsh economic times, it may be difficult for many to focus on the good things in our lives, but they’re there. We may just have to dig a little deeper to find them.  Read the rest of this entry »

Whenever I talk to someone not originally from Florida, especially a recent transplant, one of the first complaints I’m likely to hear is that they miss the change of seasons. Well, guess what? The seasons change here in Florida, too. The signs are just a lot more subtle, so you have to pay closer attention. Sure, we don’t get that “in your face” lavish display of reds, golds and oranges dotting our landscape, or those cool, crisp temperatures that traditionally mark the arrival of fall. But, that doesn’t mean it isn’t here.

In Florida, autumn sneaks in on tiptoes. An early morning 75 degrees the past several days has felt distinctly different from the early morning 75 degrees of a month ago. And the air looks just the merest touch clearer, the curves and angles of our skyline ever so slightly sharper. The change is barely perceptible, but I know it’s there. Maybe it comes from living here for more than three decades, but I can see it. I can feel it too.  Read the rest of this entry »

She had never seen the Godfather. So I made her a meal she couldn’t refuse.

When Steebo told me that she had never seen the Godfather, I felt a dinner coming on. I had always liked the first two Godfather films, but I found a new appreciation for them upon reading a fascinating article in Vanity Fair. The article recounts the turbulent making of the film in the face of opposition from the mob. The classic’s stormy creation is a saga in itself.

A screening of the Godfather is a great excuse to make an indulgent Italian feast that seems to go on forever. I write not to analyze the movie, but to recount my own effort to cook a meal that could somehow measure up to its greatness.

I initially figured on a couple courses during the film. As it turns out, life imitated art, and the meal soon took on a tumultuous life of its own. As I shopped that afternoon with a vague menu in my mind, my ambition and attitude grew. I invited a few friends over and cobbled a menu together. By the end of the evening, I felt downright Italian, more hotheaded Sonny than steely Michael or the wise godfather. Read the rest of this entry »

Risotto is like a white canvas. It’s a creamy and satisfying base which allows itself to be painted by a chef’s imagination. It’s not something I like to have too often, but it’s certainly a dish I look forward to making. And each time, I like to re-create it, as I would a painting, with a new combination of ingredients. Dried mushrooms develop an unmistakable earthy flavor which I think is perfect for flavoring a creamy risotto. In this one I added a creamy, garlicky boursin cheese just before serving it!

Risotto cookery is not hard – but you do have to follow a few rules. 1) You must use a very starchy rice (arborio) that will develop that typical creaminess that risotto is renowned for. 2) Don’t walk away from your risotto. You must be able to stay with it through the cooking process. Those of you with commitment issues might want to try an easier dish! 3) Risotto should be served immediately for best texture. I wouldn’t serve a risotto to guests that is older than 15-20 minutes. (although I have found that microwaving the next day with a little water, does bring it back a lot of its creaminess… but don’t tell anyone!)

Recipe after the break: Read the rest of this entry »

This week we discussed episode 2 of Top Chef Masters: The Lost Supper. Our special guest this week was Jeff Houck, food writer for The Tampa Tribune, who added a great dose of humor to the show and kept us in stitches.
Read the rest of this entry »

Michael Ruhlman has made a career out of dissecting the relationship between chef and food. His three Chef books — Making of, Reach of, Soul of — are elegantly constructed stories about the life of a modern chef, from culinary school to semi-celebrity. His cookbooks range from the concise and unfussy Elements of Cooking to several glossy, pornographic tomes co-written with name-brand chefs.

He’s also the kind of guy who hangs out with Anthony Bourdain and Mario Batali, glorifies cured meat, and writes with unapologetic candor. He and Bourdain lambasted the culture of the TV chef with their own alternative awards show at the South Beach Wine and Food Festival two years ago.

In Ratio, though, Ruhlman turns back to what he started in Elements of Cooking, namely injecting something of the professional chef into the home kitchen. The core concept is that ratios are the fundamental building blocks of all cooking, by defining and understanding those ratios the home cook will begin to understand food at it’s base and begin to think beyond recipes.

Ratio is not the kind of book most people will slap open on their kitchen counter to make a quick custard for dessert. It’s shaped like a traditional hardcover novel and the few pictures are in black and white. But, like a good hardcover novel, Ruhlman can be gripping. His opening chapter immediately convinces that with a mere basic understanding of his list of ratios, I’ll be able to innovate and experiment willy-nilly with great success. Read the rest of this entry »

A friend recently wondered how I could possibly enjoy the TV show Hell’s Kitchen. I was accused of being terrible because I liked it. The message went, in part,

“While I am the first to admit that cooking for a crowd (of friends) can be stressful, I simply cannot imagine eating any of the food that any of these people prepare … including ‘Chef Ramsay’. I cannot believe that you would really promote this kind of monstrosity regarding food. I still hear your delight with watching this program, and I simply cannot understand it.”

Instead of trying to explain myself or take on the dubious task of defending the show, a story came to mind. I was in Apalachicola to eat, lecture, gather some Florida food research and, unbeknownst to me, cook.

Read the rest of this entry »

All the beer, dropped trou, bistro burgers and food news you may have missed, in one easy list.

CL’s food and drink podcast, Nosh Pit: Episode 5
Brian reviews Datz Deli
Corkscrew covers Tempranillo
Upcoming food and wine events

Also: great cheap wine deal, Bistro Burger recipe, highlights from CL’s Wine Club event, Tournament of Tacos has a theme song, Fat Tire heads east, Dunedin Mardi Gras had no good beer, Bill Niman won’t eat Niman Ranch meat, Grilled Asian Skirt Steak Salad recipe, jazz up your popcorn, conversations with creme brulee, Roasted Garlic Hummus recipe, Paula Deen strips on video, local eggs are hard to find, Beer Review: Harviestoun Ola Dubh, strawberry recipes, Michelle Obama gives a kitchen tour, BBQ Cheesy Chicken recipe, and death to butter packets.

Obama was inagurated on Tuesday, and in the frenzy of media coverage you may have missed what’s really important — sustenance. No worries, we have the entire week distilled down to a mere few links. Just for you:

• Listen to the inaugural episode of Nosh Pit, CL’s new food and wine podcast.
• Brush up on Girl Scout Cookie gossip.
• Bourdain calls Alice Waters “very Khmer Rouge”.
• I call Alice Waters out for $500 dinners.
• Three new Tampa restaurants (and Cupcake Spot) are scheduled to open this weekend. Taylor already ate at one of them.
• Three words: waffle fry butts.
• Obama orders a medium-well cheeseburger. For. Shame.
• Chocolate and bacon cupcakes with peanut butter icing.
• Argentina kills our last bets hope for quality beef.
• USDA releases ineffectual, voluntary rules for the term “naturally raised”.
• Ingredient Basics: Garlic

Just in case you missed it, here are the top Food & Drink stories of the day:

• Top Chef recap: “Restaurant Wars“
• Fleming’s three-course prix fixe returns
• New restaurant preview: AquaKnox
• Bourdain calls Alice Waters “very Khmer Rouge”

And some more from around the web:

• Cooking with apples: Pink Lady’s the choice
• How much does it cost to feed a CEO? About $240k if you’re HP’s Mark Hurd
• Store-bought chicken stocks, reviewed: Which are the best?
• Wines of the times – South African wines step onto the stage
• St. Pete Times reviews Zeko’s Mediterranean Grill
• TBO reviews Weck’s Deli

It’s heirloom tomato time here on the Gulf Coast of Florida, so what better way to inaugurate our new monthly recipe contest — and our fancy new Food Section — than with a tomato showdown? We want to know how you use these sweet winter treats, if only so we can shove it in the faces of our frigid northern brethren.

The rules for CL’s Monthly Recipe Contest are simple: Read the rest of this entry »

For years, CL’s loyal readers have made our food coverage one of the most popular sections of both the paper and the website. Now, it’s time for us to give back.

Today, CL unveiled a new food site that goes far beyond the restaurant reviews, wine columns, food and drink events, and occasional news we’ve doled out in the past. To do that we assembled a crack group of local food and drink bloggers to cover the Bay area’s vibrant eating and drinking culture, from tours of local ethnic markets to a behind-the-scenes look at the people who bring you food. We’ll also feature more coverage of restaurant openings and closings, local events, and foodie news from around the country.

One of the biggest changes will be for readers willing to take a turn in their own kitchen. Every week will bring new recipes, new discussion of kitchen gear and techniques, information about the freshest in-season local ingredients, and much more for both novices and practiced home cooks. Think you’ve got some chops with a knife? Check out our monthly recipe contest, where we’ll determine the best unsung chefs in the Bay area.

There will be new stories, recipes and news posted throughout the day, every day of the week, so make sure to check back frequently to keep an eye on what’s going on. And if you have any information about the local scene that you’d like to see covered, or and idea for new columns, drop us a line.

Enough talk. Eat it up.

World of Wines
This Wine Down Wednesday tasting features Chilean wines and specialty beers. Free. 6-8 p.m., 3431 S. West Shore Blvd., Tampa (813-835-9463)

Cork and Olive Palm Harbor
Christine Chapot of jardin de Bacchus B&B in Tavel, France teaches tou how to cook the Provencal way. $35. 6:30-9 p.m., Cork & Olive, 4978 Ridgemoor Blvd., Palm Harbor (727-781-9463 or corkandolive.com)

Chefs on the Loose
“Rocket Fuel” teaches you how to fill up on healthy, energy-giving foods. $55. 6:30-9:30 p.m., 3401 Bay To Bay Blvd., Tampa (813-835-7300 or chefsontheloose.net)

Check out our full Food and Drink Events Listing for more upcoming events.

Finally finished off all the turkey leftovers? Great, time to start cooking again! Here are this week’s best bets:

Whole Foods – Grapefruit — from Indian River — are almost half-off at $.79/pound, so buy a bunch and whip up some snapper with herb salad and grapefruit from the Culinary Sherpas? (full ad)

Publix Greenwise Market – Florida-grown tomatoes — plum or vine-ripened — are a mere $.99/pound, perfect for any of these five recipes from Bon Appetit, courtesy of Fox 13. (full ad)

Sweetbay, Fresh Market and Publix after the break… Read the rest of this entry »

The lobby lounge at CineBistro Miami.

The Trib’s Tampa Bay Online is reporting the construction of a CineBistro theater in Hyde Park Village.

“Cobb Theatres plans to begin construction in January of a CineBistro theater that will have six screens, reserved seating and dining tables. Cocktails and appetizers will be available in the lobby bar. Patrons will be able to order a meal that will be served at the table before the movie starts.”

Metromix Tampa Bay has a lot of images of the CineBistro in Wesley Chapel if you have a hankering to learn more.

And, a few days ago a Charley’s World segment on MyFox Tampa Bay included an interview with CineBistro Executive Chef Mike Outlaw. Mike offers up his recipe for CineMac, the Bistro’s version of mac & cheese. It looks delicious.

Here’s the official CineBistro press release about the opening.

This week is all about Thanksgiving, but that doesn’t mean you can’t find interesting things to cook in the lead up to turkey day. Here are some of the best sales on raw ingredients, with a few suggestions for what you can do with them:

Whole Foods – Local navel oranges are a mere $.69/pound (regularly $1.49). You could easily take these juicy, super sweet oranges and make ambrosia, but navels are best when just peeled and consumed. (full ad)

Publix Greenwise Market – This fancy, new Hyde Park Whole Foods competitor has local stone crab claws for $9.99/pound. A few dozen claws will save you from having to do any serious cooking in the hectic days before Thursday, although you should whip up this recipe for classic mustard sauce. (full ad)

Publix, Sweetbay, Fresh Market and Wal-Mart after the break: Read the rest of this entry »