Daily Loaf

• The Table is in the midst of another shake-up, with 717 South Michael Stewart, former GM Joe Moledo out and Andrew Wilkins (formerly of Mad Fish and Ceviche) in as GM. This comes after a long history of turmoil, including the loss of chef Pedro Flores earlier this year. Looks like the restaurant’s new thrust will be for lower price points and fewer staff changes. (Mouth)

• Ella’s Folk Art Cafe, the first of a new generation of restaurant slated to open in Tampa and Seminole Heights, started serving this past weekend.

The Columbia, OktoBEERfest, Domenica Macchia, and Grattzi’s after the break: Read the rest of this entry »

Domenica Macchia is on the move. Again. This week, my favorite fast-talking, passionate chef will take over the kitchen at Bella Brava, replacing outgoing chef  Trevor Lyman at the modern Italian restaurant on downtown St. Pete’s Central Avenue.

New Bella Brava co-owner Mike Harting (fresh from a long career with Outback Steakhouse), started looking for a new chef a couple of months ago. Macchia — who’s first generation Italian, and tried to get a job at Bella Brava in the restaurant’s early days — was the right fit. She left Diner 437 this past weekend, after opening the gastro-diner to pretty much universal local acclaim a few months back.

So, of course, I woke her up this morning to get her thoughts. She’s worried about people thinking she’s switching jobs too much, and doesn’t want to say anything bad about her previous employers, but most of all she’s happy. Excited. Even when she’s groggy from sleep, talking to Macchia is like talking to a culinary machine-gun:

Why’d you leave Diner 437? Read the rest of this entry »

This is the time when all the spectacular new restaurants that have opened in the past year can shine and all of Tampa Bay can snub our collective noses at the poor economy. But only one worthy spot can win, and the race is close.

Two St. Pete spots — Diner 437 and Queenshead Eurobar — are in the lead, but there’s still plenty of time to shift victory in this close race to another restaurant. Time to mobilize and vote!

Is your favorite spot in the running? Here’s are the leaders in the race so far, with their current tallies: Read the rest of this entry »

Despite the culture surrounding celebrity chefs that’s sprung up in recent years worldwide, our own local culinary heroes usually spend much of their time behind the line instead of in front of the cameras. Our annual Best of the Bay Readers’ Poll is your chance to recognize your favorite knife-wielding madman (or madwoman)!

Right now, the race is tight. Here’s a rundown on the top vote-getters so far: Read the rest of this entry »

(The Stinky Drinkers are a band of merry runners in training for the Women’s Running Magazine Women’s Half-Marathon on November 22^nd. These are their stories from the road…)

As the lightning flashed above, beyond and behind downtown St. Pete’s Vinoy Park, four runners sat in a Nissan discussing the science of conductivity. It was a very rainy Friday evening, and our 6:45 call time was being pushed ever backward as the thunder crashed around us.

“You know, if the car was struck by lightning, we would be sitting in a death trap,” Phylis told us. Read the rest of this entry »

Brian and Taylor chat with Gui Alinat — local chef and recent CL food contributor. We also run down Brian’s obsession with Domenica Macchia of Diner 437, the closing of Ybor’s The Nest, the re-opening of Wild Shrimp Company, and Taylor’s love for white wines from Bordeaux.

Download episode 21 here.

Diner 437
3.5 stars
437 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, 727-822-4370

I freely admit that I’m a Domenica Macchia stalker. I first encountered this former Redwoods chef at MJ’s Martinis and Tapas last year, when she wowed me and the rest of the Bay area food scene with her interesting and precise take on small-plate fine dining. Then, soon after the place opened, Macchia was fired by the owners of MJ’s. And yes, I feel a little satisfaction that the jazz lounge/restaurant is now on a possibly permanent “hiatus” while it looks for a new location.

After a few months of looking, and some concern over her mortgage, Macchia hooked up with Dan Soronen — former owner of the Old Northeast Tavern — and concocted a gastropub menu for his soon-to-open Shackleton’s Folly in south St. Pete. “Soon” became months, and finally Macchia left to find another new opportunity. Fortuitously, Greg Pugh — owner of Ringside Cafe — was interested in opening a new place. Fast. Diner 437 started slinging hash within a couple of weeks.

I love Macchia for her food, sure, but also for how she lays everything on the table when you talk to her, whether it’s for a CL interview or just gabbing with strangers the counter at her new restaurant during a slow moment. She’s frets — about herself, about her food, about the past and the future — and she’s unabashedly candid about herself and her path to Diner 437. You can read all about it on CL’s food blog.

The problem with love — familial and otherwise — is that it comes with expectations. Read the rest of this entry »

Diner 437 is the new venture by Greg Pugh of Ringside Cafe, with Domenica Macchia in front of the stove. Look for it to open tomorrow, June 2, in the former location of Grillside Central, which was recently dropped as part of the Craig “Chappy” Chapman restaurant fiefdom.

Diner 437 will be serving three squares a day — breakfast, lunch and dinner — with a shortened brunch selection on Sunday, and closed on Monday. The food looks to be upscale, reconstructed diner-style dishes, utilizing Macchia’s aborted gastropub menu from Shackleton’s Folly as a template. Sure, you get eggs all day, but you’ll also find duck-fat fries, flatiron pork steaks, and a bevy of fine-dining touches on sandwiches and salads. I’m jazzed — considering how much I’ve loved Macchia’s food in the past — and the price point seems right.

As Maccchia says, it’s inexpensive, but “you cant say cheap, that’s for the girls on the corner.” Everything is under $20, much of it under $10. Beverages match that, with no wine above $18.

Check out Macchia’s rough-draft menu below, although she’s still working out the kinks: Read the rest of this entry »

When MJ’s Martini and Tapas opened last year, I didn’t expect much. It was billed more as a jazz club than a restaurant, and the location — tucked behind a defunct Bennigan’s on St. Pete’s North 4th — was terrible. One visit changed my mind about the place, thanks entirely to chef Domenica Macchia.

Then, soon after the place opened, Macchia was fired by the owners of MJ’s. After a few months of looking, and some concern over her mortgage, she hooked up with Dan Soronen with plans to create a gastropub menu at his soon-to-open Shackleton’s Folly in south St. Pete. “Soon” became months, and finally Macchia left to find another new opportunity. Fortuitously, Greg Pugh — owner of Ringside Cafe — was interested in opening a new place. Fast.

Tomorrow, Diner 437 (check out the full menu) opens in the former space of Grillside Central, with Macchia in the kitchen, back doing what she does best. She is one of my favorite chefs — or even people — to just gab with, thanks to her unedited, machine-gun delivery. So I decided to give her a call and ask her about the past few months.

I talked to her this morning, much too early in the morning for most chefs to be awake.

Why up so early?
I’ve never done lunch or breakfast, so I’m trying to get used to this. The concept [at Diner 437] for me is why not get great eggs all day long?

What went wrong at Shackleton’s Folly?
I started in February. We planned on two weeks afterward I’d get on the payroll, construction was going well, and planned on opening on St. Patty’s day. I’ll tell you everything, I was heartbroken. After four and a half months [Soronen] had no money to pay. I believed in the place, and believed in him, but I realized in the beginning of April I had to move on. I couldn’t lose my house over his dream. He’s kind of mad at me, I wish him the best, but love is not enough. You have to pay your bills.

How did you hook up with Greg Pugh (owner of Ringside Café and now Diner 437)?
I don’t think of myself as spiritual, I think it just sounds good when you’re meeting people, but it all seemed to work out for the best. I left Shackleton on Thursday, in worse shape now than ever before, then Friday I got a call from Greg. He said, “Can I come get you?” I didn’t know him, thought maybe I should bring my knife. But hey, in desperation I’ll get in anyone’s car these days.He showed me a space and I thought, “Wow, right back on Central, kind of where I started down at Redwood.” After a five-minute walkthrough, I said, “I think a diner would work there.”

He asked me to work up a menu and I said, “it just so happens I have one right here.”

What is Diner 437 going to be like?
Well, there’s the counter so I have to learn not to drop f-bombs. My inside voice is, uh, really …
I took the menu from Shackleton’s and made it fit. Read the rest of this entry »