Daily Loaf

As part of its survival-mode restructuring campaign, Conde Nast announced today that it is shutting down production of four of its magazines, including big name brands Gourmet and Modern Bride, as well as Cookie and Elegant Bride. There have been rumors about Gourmet’s demise for almost a year now, and in the first half of this year its ad pages had fallen by almost 50%.

So what becomes of Gourmet honcho Ruth Reichl? Maybe she can don the drag again and usurp Sam Sifton as the new NYT restaurant critic for a second tour of duty?

Here’s a sad note: There’s still a pop-up on the Gourmet site asking if you want to subscribe. And where will I go to find absurdly complicated, poorly designed recipes?!

The Think + Drink Cinema Series focuses on cultural, social and scientific topics. This week’s selection is I’m Your Man, which explores the life and times of Leonard Cohen (pictured, photo by MJ Kim), the prolific musician and poet whose tunes inspired covers by everyone from Rufus Wainwright to Beth Orton, Jarvis Cocker, Nick Cave, Kate and Anna McGarrigle and U2. Cohen’s also slated to visit the St. Pete Times Forum in October. The American Music Series prior to each movie explores the history and icons of the music that have shaped America, and features a live performance by a new local musician each week. Tonight’s live guest musician is Dennis Brock. Music begins at 6 p.m. and films begin at 7 p.m. every Thursday through Aug. 27 unless otherwise noted. Visit southfloridamuseum.org for more info. Thurs., Aug. 6, 6 p.m., Bishop Planetarium, 201 10th St. W., Bradenton, $8, $6 students, $5 museum members.

Dalí in New York is a documentary of the artist during the 1965 opening of his exhibit at Huntington Hartford’s Gallery of Modern Art. Dalí devoted himself to making the film as interesting as his art; he staged several avant garde scenes utilizing props like a plaster cast, a thousand ants, and a million dollars in cash. Then, see the psychedelic BBC documentary Hello Dalí, featuring montages of the artist’s paintings and videos, scenes with Salvador and Gala Dalí, and images of Teatro Museo Dalí during its construction. Thu., Aug. 6, 6 p.m., Salvador Dalí Museum, St. Petersburg, free with $5 museum admission, salvadordalimuseum.org.

The 18th annual Gourmet Feastival benefits the Tampa Centre for Women, and includes a mouthwatering array of decadent cuisine. Participating restaurants include wine devotees Bin 27, scrumptious sandwich shop Datz Deli, fancy fare from Chez Bryce, fondue from the Melting Pot, and more food and wine purveyors than you can shake a fondue fork at, along with live music and door prizes. Visit centreforwomen.org for more info. Thu., Aug. 6, 6-9 p.m., Tampa Hyatt Hotel, 211 N. Tampa St., Tampa, $50 in advance, $60 at the door.

Cookout season is upon us, and what’s one of the first things that pops into my head when I think about cookouts? Burgers! It’s one of the best forms of finger food and a staple of summer cookout foods.

Contrary to what many people may think, burgers don’t always have to include just beef, or any meat at all, for that matter. Start thinking outside the burger box and get creative with: from ground lamb or chicken to portobello mushrooms or seafood. Then find some fun condiment combinations to top them with to enhance their flavor. Why not make your own condiment for your burgers to elevate their gourmet factor?

I experimented with shrimp as the protein for my latest burger concoction and made them into sliders (which also work as fun little appetizers). To bind the chopped shrimp I had to use some cracker crumbs, mayo and an egg, to end up with a crab cake-like patty. Just be sure, if you make a burger with shrimp, crab or fish, to not use too much breadcrumb filling in your mixture because you don’t want to end up with a dense product. Think: more meat to filler in your burger mix ratio.

These shrimp sliders can be baked, grilled, or pan-fried. If you’re going to grill them, just be sure to thoroughly spray your grill down with non-stick grill spray before placing the patties down (see below for further cooking instructions). Read the rest of this entry »

The author furiously at work decorating cakes for class

 With the rise of all-things-cooking has come a slew of television shows, celebrity chefs, designer cookbooks, and yes, that one-time silly-frillyness formerly relegated to weddings and 3rd grade birthday parties: cake decorating. The cake decorating movement, in line with the new consciousness about cooking (see: slow food, organic food, food competitions, gourmet food, Top Chef, and more), is breaking boundaries and setting new artistic standards as the general public gets excited about everything food-related. Programs such as The Food Network’s Ace of Cakes highlight the possibilities (due in large parts to the liberal use of rolled icing, or fondant) that cake bakers, caterers, and decorators have these days. And possibilities are in abundance! The imagination is truly the only limiting factor as cakes take the shape of buildings, airplanes, dirt-bike racing courses, designer purses, and more. Read the rest of this entry »

Just for the record, I do not dress in drag, wear wigs, or try role-playing characters when I review restaurants. Although a couple of local chefs have claimed to me that they have my picture posted in the kitchen — some even offering bounties — I have no idea where they got the pic, or even if it’s actually me. Google search as much as you’d like; you won’t find any graven digital images of this critic.

But Ruth Reichl — former NY Times restaurant critic and current Gourmet editor — was famous for engaging in all sorts of costuming and characterization during her reviewing stint in the 1990s. And it worked admirably, causing her to experience the tiered treatment doled out by some of NY’s finest restaurants based on their perception of her worth as a customer, as detailed in her book Garlic and Sapphires.

In a stagey, but undeniably cute, video put out by Gourmet, Reichl revisited those years and characters. Video after the break:

Read the rest of this entry »