Eat My Florida

The government is not in the business of making it easier for you to find and purchase local foods. Just look at the draconian regulations that govern slaughterhouses, the USDA requirements (separate bathroom for the inspector?) so arduous and expensive that they all but eliminate boutique companies or local slaughterhouses from being able to slaughter meat meant for sale. By 2000, over 80% of the cows in the United States were processed by just four companies. That’s why you may want to own your own cow.

Or look at the rise in raw milk sales, despite the fact that unpasteurized milk is illegal for human consumption. Or farm fresh eggs that have to be sold as “pet food” to get around egg and dairy regs.

A NY Times op-ed describes how one Minnesota farmer discovered another problem when he tried to lease land from a neighbor to meet the rising demand for local fruits and vegetables in his community. Not only does the USDA frown on converting land from the cultivation of the big four commodity crops (rice, soybeans, corn and cotton) they actually penalize the farms that try it. Way to support the move from unsustainable monoculture crops to local, low-impact food farming, USDA.

USA Today reported yesterday that global warming could spell the end of the black French truffle industry. The big problem is drought; scientists predict that rainfall around the Mediterranean basin could drop by more than a quarter in the next couple of decades. For a fungus that relies on damp weather to grow, that’s devastating.

But the situation is not quite as bad as this article makes it out to be. When I interviewed Charles Lefevre — former president of the North American Truffling Society and truffle entrepreneur — a few months ago, he told a different story. Lefevre said that 80-90% of French truffles are grown on farms, where irrigation and modernization can stave off drought and other problems. He also noted the culture of mystery fostered by the truffle industry.

“Part of the story of truffles is that producers are very secretive of how and where they grow,” explained Lefevre. “They are also secretive about how much they harvest. Most farmers will say they don’t harvest any.” With prices at record levels, some farmers may be boo-hooing for effect.

In any case, problems in the French truffle industry open up opportunities for US truffle production, especially for the new wave of truffle cultivators mentioned in my article. Although prices will likely stay at the extortionist levels reached this past year, hopefully other nations cultivating this black gold will up the quality and provide another option for people who need a little luxury in their lives.

Last year, the news that there was a worldwide shortage of hops sent chills up my beery spine. The little flowers that add complexity, aroma and bitterness to beer are grown around the world, but some of the biggest producers experienced huge shortfalls in 2007. Hops that sold in previous years for a few dollars per pound skyrocketed to OPEC-style levels, many at $25 a pound or more. And even if brewers could afford the huge hit to their bottom line, through price increases that customers aren’t going to be happy with, they often couldn’t find enough hops to buy. (more…)

Looks like all the local school districts have complied with a USDA halt on the use of beef from the Westland Meat Products packing company. If you missed the scandal that broke last week, here’s the sum up:

The Humane Society videotaped workers at the Westland packing plant resorting to extraordinary means to get some obviously damaged and sick cows to get to their feet and walk into the plant. You see, cows that can’t move of their own volition are not allowed for human consumption. How do you convince a sick cow to walk to it’s own slaughter? Shoot water up it’s nose, roll it around on the ground with a forklift, jam it with cattle prods; you know, a typical Saturday night.

You should watch the video. It’s enlightening.

Westland is the second largest supplier of meat to the USDA’s National School Lunch Program. Sorry, was the second largest. Tough luck, Westland.

If that video wasn’t enough to put you off your lunch for the next couple of weeks, here are a few of the best cruelty videos of the past few years:

Foie Gras

Meat Your Meat

Tyson Slaughterhouse

Butterball

The NYT had one of their seemingly annual food analysis projects hit the paper today. This time they tested sushi-grade tuna from NY-area restaurants and markets for mercury levels. Turns out even raw fish’ll kill you.

Tuna at five of the twenty places they tested had mercury levels so high the FDA could actually pull the fish from the shelves, or, well, your plate. This time the wealthy gets hit the hardest — the most expensive tuna comes from prized giant bluefin and, since they’re bigger, they have time to absorb more mercury.

The study concluded that, on average, people who eat more than six pieces of tuna sushi a week will be exceeding the FDA’s recommended blood mercury limit. That’s assuming, of course, that the rest of the week you refrain from eating anything else that might contain the pesky mineral.

After writing about Michael Pollan’s new book last week, I received an email from your friends at the Corn Refiners Association. Nice to know that they’re examining local media for stories that might cast aspersions on nutritious and wholesome high fructose corn syrup.

Here’s the letter:

Dear Editor:
The January 16 article “Chew on this,” may mislead consumers about high fructose corn syrup.
New research continues to confirm that high fructose corn syrup is safe and no different from other common sweeteners like sugar and honey.
High fructose corn syrup is a natural sweetener and has the same number of calories as sugar. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration granted high fructose corn syrup “Generally Recognized as Safe” status for use in food, and reaffirmed that ruling in 1996 after thorough review.
High fructose corn syrup offers numerous benefits, too. It keeps foods fresh. It enhances fruit and spice flavors. It retains moisture in bran cereals and helps keep breakfast bars moist.
Consumers can see the latest research and learn more at www.HFCSfacts.com.

Audrae Erickson
President
Corn Refiners Association
1701 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, D.C. 20006
(202)-331-1634

(Thanks to nataliedee.com for the image.)

The federal WIC (Women, Infant and Children) Program has provided food assistance targeted at “low income pregnant, breastfeeding, non-breastfeeding postpartum women, infants and children up to five years of age who are at nutritional risk” since the 1970s. Recently, WIC has been criticized for the lack of fresh food options that it allows participants to purchase, relying on milk, eggs, cheese and breakfast cereal to feed America’s youth. Until last month, the only fruits and veggies permitted were carrots for breastfeeding mothers. I wonder what Michael Pollan would think of WIC’s reliance on “scientific nutrition rationale.”

In December, the USDA changed its mind. Next month, states will implement an addition to the program that provides a whopping $8 to each WIC recipient for the purchase of fruits and vegetables. Not much, to be sure, but most WIC participants also get benefits from other programs, like Food Stamps.

Around these parts, that $8 will have to spent at the supermarket.

You see, there is already a WIC program in place — the Farmers’ Market Nutrition Program — that provides money to moms and kids to be used at farmers’ markets for the purchase of locally grown fruits and vegetables, but Florida isn’t pushing participation. In 2007 we received less federal money for the program than 22 other states and districts, including places like Washington, D.C. and Iowa. The FMNP coupons Florida does distribute are only authorized for use in 17 out of 67 Florida counties. Hillsborough, Pinellas, Sarasota and Manatee are not on the list.

All of this comes on the heels of a UCLA study that followed two groups of WIC participants — one given an extra $10 in coupons for local farmers’ markets and one given $10 for fruits and vegetables at the supermarket. After 6 months, the farmers markets group consumed almost twice as many extra daily servings of fruits and vegetables than the supermarket group.

Now that’s an efficient way to promote nutrition.

Appearing later this week in lieu of the weekly restaurant review:

This space is usually devoted to appraising the kinds of food that we eat pretty much every day, served by people who devote their lives and livelihoods to its preparation. Rarely do I delve into the nitty-gritty of America’s relationship with food. It’s a complex subject, easy to ignore in the face of so many damn fine things to eat.

In some ways, 2006’s Omnivore’s Dilemma — arguably the best food book of the decade — changed all of that, at least for me. In Omnivore, author Michael Pollan broadly set the scene for dietary self-examination, detailing the history of our unhealthy relationship with corn and soy and lamenting the distance (both physical and psychological) between our plates and the sources of our food. In the process, he fleetingly raises a couple of troublesome questions: Why do we eat what we eat? And, perhaps more important: What should we eat?

In Defense of Food, Pollan’s latest book, is his answer.

(more…)

Many of my friends have told me that one of their food resolutions for the new year is to try and source more local food. Heading to the farm stands and farmer’s markets (or paying close attention to supermarket labels) is an admirable goal, but taking it the next step can be tough. Next week, I’ll be debuting a new weekly column in CL that should help. It’s not always convenient, cheap or simple to maximize the local food on your table, but hopefully Eating Local can help out.

Here’s your first taste of the column, appearing in the paper on January 16:

USDA regulations make finding locally raised meat difficult at best. Commercial meat has to be slaughtered at special slaughterhouses, none of which are in our vicinity, and few people have the opportunity to raise their own. Luckily, Rick McHan will do it for you.

McHan’s Plan It Earth (15433 County Rd. 39 S., Lithia, 813-784-2727) farm in Lithia will raise a cow just for you, from calf to slaughter in about 18 months. Technically, the lumbering bovine belongs to you the whole time, which skirts the USDA regs and allows local slaughterhouses (meant for personal meat consumption) to process your beef. All within an hour’s drive of the Bay area.

Having your own cow is an investment, so it’s best to enlist some other families to help with the expenses and share the bounty. According to McHan, a good calf costs around $400 and he charges $100 a month to raise it on grass and hay, with grain-fed fattening during the last six weeks. The slaughterhouse charges around $.30 per pound of edible meat, neatly butchered, shrink-wrapped and flash frozen for your convenience. Fully grown cows weigh in at about 1200 pounds, so you’ll pay approximately $2400 for 600 pounds of meat, or $4 a pound. Make sure you have room in your freezer.

Afraid of becoming attached to the walking steak? McHan will take care of every step in the process, freeing you from confronting your future meal. Wimp.

Finally, Maine’s official state soft drink is available here in Florida, thanks to the fine people at Sweetbay.

Moxie Soda has long had a cult-like following of evangelical fans, due both to its unusual flavor and small distribution area. Earlier this year, Coca-Cola Bottling of Northern New England purchased the brand and planned to expand sales of Moxie outside of its traditional Northeastern borders. Florida is the first test market.

Originally marketed as a medicine called “Moxie Nerve Food,” Moxie became a carbonated soda in 1884, claiming “to be the only harmless nerve food known that can recover brain and nervous exhaustion, loss of manhood, imbecility and helplessness.” That’s almost enough to compensate for a taste that is often described as a cross between cola and root beer, with a little extra medicinal zing from gentian root extract. “There’s nothing that tastes like it,” explains brand manager Justin Conroy.

Conroy has plans to expand distribution in Florida, although Sweetbay will be the only outlet in the short term. Six-pack cans of Moxie have been on the shelves for about a month, with Diet Moxie and Moxie Energy on the way.

Michael Pollan — author of the Omnivore’s Dilemna, the best food book of the past decade — had a brilliant op-ed piece in the New York Times yesterday about this year’s Farm Bill. I could talk about the piece here on the blog, but you should just read it for yourself. Bottom line — the Farm Bill will affect more people in this country more profoundly than almost any other piece of legislation passed by Congress. Pay attention.

Dr. Vino has a new study that shows how much of an impact the wine we drink has on the environment. It’s a great study that deserves a serious read, but here’s what I’ve pulled out of it: drink wine from big bottles or bag-in-a-box, oak chips are better than oak barrels and wine from Europe is better than California if you live East of the Mississippi.

Sounds like the greenest choice may be plonk from France in a plastic jug.

Nature’s Harvest, a 23 year old fixture in Tampa’s organic and natural foods community, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection a few weeks ago. The south Tampa store was suffering under a conflict with the bank that holds their mortgage and, according to President David Taylor, “the only way to go forward with that relationship was to use the judicial system.”

Nature’s Harvest will remain open, according to Taylor. He plans to use this as an opportunity to re-organize the store to better compete with big chains like Wild Oats/Whole Foods and the new Publix Greenwise market opening less than a mile away.

“We’ve always taken the position of bringing natural and organic foods to customers in an affordable way,” says Taylor, who will be streamlining Nature’s Harvest’s inventory and decrease the wide breadth of products. His goal is to focus on commodities, “the kinds of products people use every day,” and offer those items at more competitive prices.

Taylor recognizes that Nature’s Harvest’s biggest asset is it’s interaction with the community, so the store will also try to emphasize their customer service and education programs. He wants customer to know that no matter what Nature’s Harvest does, none of the important things will be changing.

“These days in Tampa, it’s tough,” explains Taylor. “Sometimes you have to change your business model or close.”

The Vegetable Orchestra uses only fruits and vegetables to play their music.

Sweetwater Organic Farm, the subscription based CSA tucked into a residential neighborhood in Tampa, has expanded into Clearwater.

The new farm is at Gateway Nursery, formerly a landscape plant grower, and is owned and operated by Pamela and Hank Sindlinger. Crops will be coming in this year, with about 40 full-year shares available (part-time shares can be had as well. According to Sweetwater’s Exec. Dir. Rick Martinez, they’ve sold about 60% of the shares.

Another interesting point I learned talking to him is that Sweetwater took over management of Bern’s Steakhouse’s famous farm plot on South Tampa. Sweetwater has long had a relationship with the restaurant, using some of Bern’s land for their own crops, but now the CSA runs the whole shebang. What does that mean for the legendary practice of forcing Bern’s waiter-trainees to till the soil and get their hands dirty? According to Bern’s Publicist Heather Sherer-Berkoff, they still do, but she’s checking to be sure. Expect an update in the next day or two.

You may want to set that drumstick down before reading this, because the plump bird that gave its all for your dinner didn’t lead the happiest of lives. Surprised? Didn’t think so. But it’s very important to understand where your food comes from, whether it’s a tomato from Ruskin or a piece of fish farmed in China.

I present this information to you not as a PETA proponent, nor one of those macho carnivores who assumes that animal cruelty is an oxymoron. It’s just information; use it how you will.

From egg to grill, for better or worse, here’s the lifecycle of the average American chicken: (more…)

Only in Japan would they spike your cookies with “breast enhancing herbs.” Each cookie has 50mg of the magical boobie herb, Pueraria Mirifica. (According to Peuraria corporate press: “As miracle herb has been proved its efficacy of “high Content of Active Ingredients” for building up confidence among women to be more Perfect! Lady.” Lady, indeed!) The text is Japanese, but these graphics tell the tale.

Brings new meaning to Two-a-Day!

(Sorry Jaden, couldn’t resist adding some stuff! -BR)

According to this report, Florida restaurants are Number One! Yeah! More food poisoning than any other state!

Screw you California (#2), with your paltry 62 cases of food-borne illness. What up Ohio (#3)? 38 is the best you can do?

These numbers are for 2005, so let’s hope that we can continue to keep the crown through the end of the decade.

(Thanks to Dave Hackett.)

I understand that we don’t live in one of the big cities, but sometimes there are certain, uhm, amenities that I find myself craving with an intensity that scares my wife. Would I move to San Francisco just to have local salumi delivered to my door? I’m thinking about it.

Cured pork is all the rage across the country, with a lot of chefs getting into the act, but Chris Cosentino of

Incanto Restaurant in San Francisco has taken things one step farther. He plans on operating his personal curing operation — Boccalone – like a CSA. Yep, join the club and every week you’ll be eligible for a box full of “tasty salted pig parts”, perhaps the four most appetizing words in our language.

Ok, so maybe I can resign myself to the fact that the local salumi craze likely won’t hit the Bay area for a decade or so, if we follow our normal culinary trend adoption timeline, but surely there must be some old and new local pork lovers out there going elbow deep in the lardo for fun and profit? Anyone know where I can find them, to tide me over?

In honor of the first day of school, here’s a quick glimpse into the stomachs of the Bay area’s future:
Hillsborough menus, Pinellas menus, Jesuit offerings, Tampa Prep.

I think it is damn sweet of the county to cut the crusts off the PB&Js for the elementary kids, but do the high school kids need that, too? Jesuit seems to offer just catered fast food, while Tampa Prep doesn’t offer much choice at all, which might explain why everyone goes here. Honestly, the public school kids seem to have a huge leg up on the preppies, dining wise. At least until you start pulling foie gras burgers and lobster tacos out of their brown paper bags.

And, of course, the ultimate ode to hash slingers everywhere: