First up is Fred’s:

We happened to read a review of Fred’s about 5 minutes before we left the house to meet friends at Fred’s. But we decided to go and not cancel, and we’re glad we did. Brian Ries displayed his abhorrence for some of the styles that Fred’s served, which may be his personal preference, but has nothing to do with quality of the food at this restaurant.
We had a wonderful dinner. The waitress, Tiffany, was attentive, gracious, and obliging. We didn’t care for the first bottle of wine and she apologized and brought a second one promptly!
The salads were split in the kitchen for each couple, as we had requested. A supply of fresh, hot bread was constantly supplied to the table. The 14oz sirloin, which my husband and I shared, was perfectly cooked, tender and delicious. The other couple had salmon — very tasty — and a shrimp dish — most enjoyable.
And the coffee, even the decaf, was excellent.
And each course came out to our table at exactly the right time.
Most food critics make 3 visits, at least, before reviewing, but it doesn’t sound like Brian did. And he should ignore the Andy Warhol quotes — none of his business — and stick to the food and leave his own personal preferences at home.
We recommend Fred’s highly.

-Mrs. Sylvia Deutsch

Then there’s the other side of the coin, as we hear from Gaetano Cannata at Ortygia:

Brian –
You got it. The feel, the atmosphere, the message I am trying to get across. Most people have no idea of what I am trying to accomplish and how I really feel about cooking. Thank you for the wonderful comments on my place. At this point in time, this is my life. Besides my children this place gives me a reason for getting out of bed every day. Thank you so much for understanding.
You were right on the money pertaining to the two dishes you were not thrilled with. I have made some improvements based on your comments. Thank you for your constructive criticism.
Come back and visit soon

Sincerely
Chef Gaetano, Ortygia

The New Yorker has a great investigation of Italian olive oil forgery, with some fine background about olive oil production.

With all the distrust I have for the government, media and the good intentions of my next-door neighbors, why do I have to start questioning my precious, fruity extra-virgin? There is something to be said for relying solely on the “boca bella” mentioned by biodiesel and olive oil magnate Leonardo Marseglia in the article, but, then again, he may be one of the bad guys.

What’s next? Am I gonna have to start avoiding farmed fish and dog food?

Santa Maria will be taking over the former home of California Bistro Grill on Ringling and replacing the bland sandwiches and soups with casual Peruvian fare like rotisserie meats and, well, different sandwiches. “It’ll be fast food, but high quality,” he said. There will be scooter delivery, a “spicy bar” and more downscale versions of the upscale modern Peruvian-inspired cuisine Santa Maria has made popular at Selva.

“I think Peruvian is going to be the next Mexican,” Santa Maria told me, when I asked him why he thought there was a seemingly disproportionate number of Peruvian joints in town. “There are actually a lot of Peruvian restaurants everywhere.”

This comes on the heels of Selva’s expansion (which will not be at the old DJ’s/Munroe’s spot, we have it on good authority) and the oncoming Ceviche juggernaut (scroll to the bottom). Looks like downtown Sarasota is going to be awash with Rioja this winter. Let’s hope the dining public is ready for a tapas glut.

But, as we all know, eating local takes work. The easiest way to take advantage of our local growing season is by joining an area CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) Farm. If you’re new to CSA’s, here’s how they work: Once a year you purchase a share in the farm. That share entitles you to a selection of free produce every week throughout the growing season. You never know what you’ll get until it shows up in your box.

I wrote about Geraldson Farm a little over a year ago, when the Manatee County-owned CSA project was just getting started. Now, the crops are going into the ground and it’s time to pony up for local produce. This week, Geraldson Farm began taking $50 deposits to reserve one of the 180 shares they have available for the next growing season, with the actual share cost predicted to run between $450-500. From November to May, you can pick up your organically-grown fruits and veggies at the farm in northwest Bradenton, or have them delivered to community pick-up sites in Palmetto, St. Petersburg and Sarasota.

In Tampa, there’s always Sweetwater Organic — a Florida CSA pioneer — where memberships run $615 whole/$315 half, but they fill up quick and you need to pick up at the farm (which, admittedly, is a lot of fun). Down in Punta Gorda is Worden Farm ($600/$350); they deliver to the Downtown Sarasota Farmers’ Market.

The great thing about a CSA is that veggies are forced into your life — fresh, local and organic — and you just have to figure out what to do with them. You’ll have to get creative, but you can always email me for a passel of recipes involving kale.

Selva is negotiating a location for a brand-new restaurant. According to chef/owner Darwin Santa Maria, “we’re working on a whole new concept.” No details until he closes on the property, hopefully next week, but the place will definitely be downtown.

According to Santa Maria, the restaurant could open in as little as a month, which is way too quick if there is going to be much of a remodel. Maybe an existing place? Let’s start the guessing with – the old Munroe’s/DJ’s? Just noticed this morning that there is a Leased sign in the window. That would give us back the clubby upstairs bar area, but likely with a South American twist.

If that’s the case, Selva might need to start worrying about the massive complex St. Pete’s Ceviche will be opening on 1st Street in just a few months.

The Table

< Press Release > for immediate release

The Table restaurant & Mesa Lounge, Sarasota, Florida expands to St. Petersburg

SARASOTA, July 17, 2007……..Chef Rafael Manzano and Chef Pedro Flores will soon bring a new dining experience to the St. Petersburg downtown area in October 2007. The two chef/owners have been successful with their Sarasota location and have been searching for the perfect spot to open a sister restaurant. They have found that location on Central Avenue in downtown St. Petersburg. Once the restaurant has opened, the menus will be innovative and creative and designed to please guests searching for quality food with flavor.

The 160 seat restaurant will focus on Atlantic Rim cuisine – a term the chefs coined while working in Miami Beach. The emphasis of the food is flavor, presentation, quality and uniqueness. Inspiration is from South America, the Caribbean, South Florida, and a hint of Spain. The new location will offer both indoor and outdoor seating and the lounge will be the place to see and be seen. It will be designed with wood tones, fabric accents and intimate lighting, lending to the lounges dramatic, cozy and contemporary atmosphere. There will be a private dining room that seats 20, and a VIP living room. The restaurant will be open for lunch, dinner, and a unique Sunday brunch.

The menu is highlighted by signature dishes: Ceviche Cones, Short Rib Springolls, Lobster Gazpacho, Lemon Roasted Chilean Sea bass Sofrito, Annatto Coriander Crusted Lamb Chops, and a decadent Chocolate Trio Sampler.

Although The Table opened quietly in July 2004, the restaurant soon received much critical acclaim, earning rave reviews and accolades from the media and public alike. The restaurant has been featured in SRQ Magazine, Southern Living, Sarasota Magazine, The Sarasota Herald Tribune, Creative Loafing, and the St. Pete Times. Within two years, the restaurant doubled in size and added a full bar. Our third year debuts a new sister in St. Petersburg. The owners searched many cities for the right location and know they have found it in St. Petersburg. A city that is perfect because of the culture and the affection for great food the area boasts.

Lunch: 11:30 AM-2:30 PM Monday to Friday

Dinner: 5:30 PM-10:00 PM Monday to Saturday

Sunday brunch: 10:00 AM-2:30 PM

All major credit cards are accepted.

For more information go to the News/Events page on www.thetablesarasota.com.

Anyone not familiar with the “Atlantic rim” cuisine Rafael Manzano and Pedro Flores should check out The Table immediately. For those of you in the Bay area, it’s worth a drive down to SRQ so you can be prepared for The Table’s St. Pete debut in 3-5 months.

After the lunch I just had at The Table on Hillview in Sarasota, I’m willing to single them out as an exception. My wife and I (her birthday, hence the Big Lunch) started with ceviche — tuna in a spicy chipotle and tart yuzu dressing, cubed shrimp with poblanos and radish, both served in edible tortilla cones — and small tostadas loaded with the luscious short ribs that are my favorite Table protein. Then came fried black grouper strips atop a brilliant salad of chayote and red onion dressed in citrus juice, nut oil and pungent dried herbs, along with a few crushed plantain patties. (Anyone who watched last night’s Top Chef will immediately realize that The Table’s “fish and chips” will immediately see the revision of classic downscale dish. This would have beaten Howie’s boring-ass pork and slaw hand’s down.) My wife settled on a dainty garden salad dressed with a rich and pungent olive/fig concoction.

All told, the bill came in under $60, including two glasses of wine, and it was as good or better than dinner at most of the nicer restaurants around town, and just about as satisfying as a full dinner at The Table.