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On Thurs. Oct. 9th, chef Shaun Doty is offering Inman Park Neighborhood Association members half-off on their dinners at Shaun’s (but they have to flash their Inman Park Patrol Membership Card or it’s a no-go).
Autumnfest
Twain’s Billiards & Tap
Decatur, GA
5.9% ABV
Just in time for crisp, fall evenings on their comfortable patio or playing a few games of pool, Twain’s serves up this cold-fermented and conditioned amber ale that blends the crisp, clean malt taste of a German marzen with the hop-forward bite of an American pale ale. German-style malts and hops lend a toasted grain flavor and a spicy aroma. A bit of caramel sweetness does not detract from the overall dry character. Well-balanced, with a refreshing hop bitterness in the finish.
(Photo by Jeff Holland)
Ugh:
Hi Cliff,
Just wanted to let you know that the Globe will be closing today instead of this Friday.
I had a gift certificate lying around and made a reservation for tomorrow night, but they called to let me know that they canceled and are shutting down tonight.
- Lori Sheridan
Atlanta Cuisine, the monthly tabloid published by AtlantaCuisine.com, will publish its first “readers’ choice” issue this month. In the September issue, publisher Tom Maicon cited his own choice for most annoying food trend:
Let’s see … most annoying food trend? Last year was easily cupcakes. But this year the most annoying food trend to me is the whole southern farm-to-table thing. Don’t think for a big-city minute that it’s the farm-to-table part of this trend that grates my last nerve — I can respect a freshly plucked vegetable just as much as the next guy — but it’s the over-used southern part of this trend that rubs me the wrong way. I mean…do we really need another southern farm-to-table concept?
For the remainder of this year and next I’ll be on the lookout for chefs who aren’t sheeople too….chefs who are willing to choose that path less taken. I’m looking for chefs like Hector Santiago of Pura Vida and Lamar Thomas of East West Bistro in Athens, Ga. who aren’t afraid to take local ingredients and do interesting things with them, rather than just mindlessly serve the awaiting public another tiresome deviled egg.
I eat to expand the mind as much, if not more, than to fill my belly. I want well-thought flavors, textures, and temperatures. I want to eat something that isn’t being overdone everywhere else in town. I want bold ethnic flavors with my so-called farm-to-table ingredients. Wouldn’t that be cool?
You can read the entire column by downloading the PDF file of the September issue on Atlanta Cuisine’s site.
Another sign of the times, a message from Jagger’s at Sage Hill Shopping Center:
Now is the time fur all good men (and ladies) to come to the aid of this fine pizza establishment…we’re going through a real slim financial period and our very survival may depend on any kind samaritans out thar who might can lend a hand…so come all ye faithful….fork it over or forever hold your piece….be part owner maybe..help old Bill Jagger out …..the gas crunch and bad economy has our boxers in a bind….so don’t let us sink….I’ll personally make you a pizza everyday of the year for 2 weeks…this product is tops and needs to be preserved here near Emory University…act now……thanks a heap!!…Moe
(Hat tip to Thomas Wheatley.)
On Oct. 9, Cafe 458 welcomes Pura Vida’s Chef Hector Santiago to prepare a three-course meal for $28. Santiago will be cooking Thursday night from 5:30-8:30 p.m. Reservations ARE required people, so call now: 404-915-7593 or go online: http://www.cafe458atl.com.
On Friday, the web was peppered with rumblings about a video featuring Dan Ackroyd of SNL/Ghost Busters fame promoting vodka in a replica of a crystal skull. Some people thought it was a joke - a satire piece to promote the upcoming Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull DVD release, but believe it or not it’s real.
Crystal Head is a quadruple-distilled, Herkimer diamond-filtered vodka produced by the Newfoundland Liquor Corporation according to the Crystal Head Vodka website. The bottle is an accurate glass rendering of the human skull created by artist, John Alexander.
Although I couldn’t find any package stores in Atlanta who plan to carry it (or had heard of it for that matter), you can purchase it online at winex.com and BevMo.com. Crystal Skull retails online between $39 - $49.
Homegrown Restaurants is celebrating peace, pride and pasta throughout the month of October. Every Wednesday, Rich Chey restaurants (Doc Chey’s Noodle House, Osteria 832, and Stella Neighborhood Trattoria) will donate 15 percent of their revenue to The Pride Committee Inc. The organization promotes unity in the community and also encourages fellow Atlantans to speak their minds. All proceeds go toward the 2009 Atlanta Pride Festival. The schedule is as follows:
Wednesday, October 8th at Osteria 832
Wednesday, October 15th at Doc Chey’s Emory
Wednesday, October 22 at Stella Neighborhood Trattoria
Wednesday, Octobert 29th at Doc Chey’s Virginia-Highland
For more information, log on to http://www.homegrownrestaurants.com.
The recession — or whatever you choose to call it — has prompted at least one Atlanta restaurant to announce a great bargain:
The Imperial Fez Moroccan Restaurant (2285 Peachtree Rd., 404-351-0870) is now accommodating the economic crisis by making their menu affordable, starting at $25 per person for a complete five-course dinner. They continue featuring belly dancing nightly. The new days of operation are 6-11 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. They are closed Sunday and Monday, except for private events.
Here’s some bad news for fans of the Havana Sandwich Shop on Buford Highway at North Druid Hills. Fire completely gutted the 32-year-old restaurant last night. The owner is blaming arson.
WSB-TV has the story and a slide show here.
Coincidentally, a friend mentioned eating there just a few days ago, which precipitated a wave of nostalgia. I used to go to the restaurant regularly during a brief marriage to a Cuban woman. At the time, it was about the only place in Atlanta you could get decent Cuban food. Unfortunately, this fire follows the recent closing of Kool Korner, whose Cuban sandwich many regarded as the city’s best.
NPR tracked down Barack Obama’s favorite Chicago restaurant today and interviewed the owner/chef.
The restaurant is Topolobampo, which chef Rick Bayless opened in 1989 after opening Frontera Grill two years earlier. Before getting into the restaurant business, Bayless was a PhD student in anthropological linguistics. His research took him to Mexico. He realized he was more interested in the food than anything else about Mexican culture, so he dropped out of his program to become a full-time chef.
Bayless’ restaurants, according to NPR, are the first in America to feature gourmet Mexican cooking. Maybe. I was eating gourmet Mexican fare at restaurants in which Diana Kennedy was involved in Austin and Houston just over 20 years ago. But Bayless, who has written a handful of cookbooks, is definitely among the pioneers.
NPR poses the question whether we can conclude anything about Obama because of what he likes to eat. They don’t really answer the question, but Bayless does note that Obama and wife Michelle experiment with the menu, take their time eating and have recently moved to a less conspicuous table in the rear of the restaurant. Undoubtedly, those who revile Obama as an elitist for his arugula consumption will likewise wonder why he’s not content with enchiladas and chimichangas.
You can listen to the piece and get some recipes here. Next week, John McCain’s palate will be on display.
I’m sorry to report that Ryan Stewart has left the Glenwood, which we named the city’s best gastropub in the “Best of Atlanta” recently.
Apparently, Stewart and the restaurant’s owners could not agree about the quality cost of ingredients he customarily uses. Stewart (who, yes, is married to editor Besha Rodell) is a follower of the local/organic food movement. His special dinners at the Glenwood were unique in the city.
Coincidentally, I wrote about owner-chef differences in a recent post about Richard Blais’ departure from Home. I’m guessing we’re going to see more of these disputes as the economy worsens. I know few restaurants that aren’t experiencing a noticeable drop in business.
Meanwhile, Angel Sutor has moved into the chef’s job at the Glenwood. I first met Angel when she was the chef at the much-missed St. Agnes’ Tea Garden years ago. As I recall, she’s had her own go-rounds with restaurant owners over the years. So, someone make some popcorn and let’s watch what happens.
I hope Stewart lands someplace soon and that Angel does well in her new position.
Imagine a world without currency. Imagine a world where canned mackerel buys anything and everything. Welcome to prison.
Surprise! Brad and I did not have our usual Friday lunch at La Pietra Cucina (but we did dine there Wednesday night with three others).
Today we went to the Corner Cafe inside Buckhead Bread Company (3070 Piedmont Rd., 404-240-1978). It’s been a few years since I visited this bakery-cafe, and, frankly it was a shock in just about every way.
The interior, begging for remodeling, looks straight out of the ’80s and the food, which is quite overpriced, was a huge disappointment.
Brad’s crab salad, nearly $15, was completely tasteless. The tomatoes were mealy, the crab was only slightly tainted with taste, the avocado was bland. Even the radishes lacked a peppery note. And it looked straight off the Whirly Q counter at Woolworth’s 20 years ago.
My sandwich, also about $15, was stuffed with shredded over-cooked lamb lathered in basil aioli. I’ve had worse sandwiches but not at this price. A side of roasted new-potato salad was fine.
It is strangely unpleasant for a Buckhead Life restaurant.
(Photos by Cliff Bostock)
Carmen Cappello, formerly chef at Mix and Sweet Lowdown, has opened Lamplighter (280 Connally St., 404-835-7167) in Grant Park. This was formerly the Lamplighter Cafe.
We had a good meal here Thursday night, less than two hours before the vice-presidential debate. Talk about an appetite spoiler.
Above is my entree, slices of rare duck over rice and zucchini with a Thai curry sauce. Wayne had shrimp and calamari in a spoon-able, sop-able broth that was seasoned with shaved garlic, chiles, basil and extra-virgin olive oil. Also: butterbean hummus, an antipasti plate and bread pudding.
Happily, Cappello has abandoned the floor tiles that much of the food was served on in the restaurant’s earlier incarnation. The interior has been spruced up a bit and the kitchen is open to view.
The menu, which changes regularly, does not so far include any of Cappello’s more playful dishes. Prices are relatively low — $10 to $15 for entrees and $4 to $7 for starters.
More in an upcoming “Grazing” column.
(Photos by Cliff Bostock)
Stone Smoked Porter
Stone Brewing Company
Escondido, CA
5.9% ABV
Stone’s Arrogant Bastard draws the most attention, thanks to its cocky attitude, but don’t overlook this sultry gem that is brewed with a portion of peat-smoked malt. The aroma of this nearly black ale is an intoxicating blend of fresh-ground coffee, smoke, earth and leather. The coffee is not as prominent in the taste, with roasted malts, bittersweet chocolate, mild smoke, and earthy peat dominating. The Chinook and Mt. Hood hops provide a low-key herbal, woody counterpoint that evokes cedar, anise, and caraway. Creamy and smooth upfront, the finish is a bit tingly and lingers nicely. The solid carbonation keeps the medium-full body from feeling heavy. This flavorful ale would pair nicely with a rich, fruity dessert or a good cigar.
(photo courtesy Stone Brewing Company)
Shaun’s marks its second anniversary next week, so Wayne and I decided to visit the restaurant last Sunday to see how things were going.
We had a fantastic meal, including this entree of grilled squab served over spaghetti squash with roasted chestnuts. A particular standout was a soup of organic eggplant. If you see it on the menu, do not miss it. And do not miss the oxtail parmentier, a special, either.
Our server, Owen, was unusually knowledgeable. My ordinary questions about ingredients did not have him running back and forth to the kitchen. Ask for him.
Among the events on tap to celebrate the restaurant’s second birthday is a special dinner prepared by owner/chef Shaun Doty and “Top Chef” finalist Richard Blais. They will prepare a five-course dinner on Wednesday, Oct. 8. Cost is $65 ($85 with wine pairings). Ten percent of the proceeds will benefit the Believe in Me Foundation, which supports services for children with autism and other developmental disorders. Doty co-founded the organization.
You can learn about the other events, including a half-price neighborhood dinner, by visiting the news and events section of the restaurant’s website.
I’ll have more to say about our meal in an upcoming Grazing column.
(Photos by Cliff Bostock)
