Omnivore - Osso buco, Southern style

Gastropubs are popping up everywhere, including East Atlanta Village. The Glenwood (1263 Glenwood Ave., 404-622-6066) is among the latest to serve food that is a giant step up from the usual bar munchies.

Chef Ryan Stewart’s menu includes some significant surprises. In the dish above, pork osso buco with black-eyed pea pistou, Italy meets Provence and the American South.

At right is very New Orleans-style blackened wahoo and shrimp served over jambalaya and spinach.

Don’t miss the dessert of fried Oreos with vanilla ice cream. My one caution: Be prepared for earsplitting recorded music.

The Glenwood is open for lunch Tuesday-Friday and for brunch Saturday and Sunday, as well as for dinner every day. I’ll be reporting more in next week’s paper.

(Editor’s note: Chef Ryan Stewart is married to our Food & Drink Editor Besha Rodell. Cliff did not know this when he visited the restaurant, wrote this post, or when he wrote the column on the Glenwood for next week’s paper. In fact, we held this blog post until he had turned in his column in order to keep him from being biased in any way. Next week we will post a detailed entry about how we dealt with this potential conflict of interest.)