Omnivore Atlanta

I heard a rumor that Javaology was closing today, so I swung by there to see what was going on. I tried calling first, but the phone has already been disconnected.

I found an employee outside the building who could not get his key to work. He said he only found out on Friday that they would be closing. The owner had informed him via email. I asked why they closed and he said that part of the business plan had been an airport location, and that had recently fallen through. He also said the tornado has negatively affected business in recent weeks.

One of the strange things about Javaology was how you could not charge less than $10 on a debit or credit card, so if you didn’t have cash the only way to get coffee was to buy a $10 gift card. I have one with most of the $10 left on it, and was feeling all indignant about losing my money until I came across the newly unemployed guy outside the store.

This isn’t the only business in Atlanta suffering because of the tornado. I’ve spoken to quite a few folks, mainly from restaurants downtown, who say that business has been hurt because of the storm.

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Creative Loafing Atlanta is looking for a visual arts writer with the knowledge, wit and point-of-view to become Atlanta’s next great arts critic.

Check out PopSmart for more info.

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Here’s a question we’d love answered: Why do so many restaurants not include their (damn) hours of operation on their website?

Do web designers know something we don’t know? Do people go to restaurant websites mainly to look at the flash graphics and glamor pictures of chefs? Or do they go to hear the sounds of people chattering and raking silverware over plates or to hear repetitive, banal mood music?

Do the people who design websites and the people who hire them have any clue how incredibly annoying it is when basic information is missing?

Sunday, I planned to go to Vita for dinner. I checked out the website and found no mention of hours. So I called the restaurant, thinking, “Well, surely, their voice mail system will state the hours.” Nope, no voice mail at all.

Then I looked up the new Cakes and Ale in Decatur. Same deal. No mention on the website of hours and no voice mail message.

Around 6 p.m., I called Vita again and got an answer! Yay!

“Are you open?” I asked.

“Yes,” the perky person replied.

“What time do you close?” I asked.

“Oh, we’re only open for a private event tonight,” she said.

Whatever!

Vita and Cakes and Ale are just the most recent I’ve encountered that don’t post their hours. The phenomenon is widespread. Stop it!

(Photo from maedeans.blogspot.com.)

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I admit that I’ve never gotten the “fun” of fondue. Somewhere in the attic, I have a red-enamel fondue pot, a gift, that has gone unused more than 25 years.

I don’t object to fondue as something on a cocktail party buffet, but I don’t enjoy making a full dinner out of spearing chunks of food and going fishing in a pot of cheese, chocolate, oil or broth. I’ve enjoyed classic raclette in Switzerland several times, but that didn’t involve cooking in a communal pot.

Nonetheless, I visited the new Melting Pot (745 Peachtree St., 404-389-0099) in Midtown Sunday night. I’ll have more to say in a future “Grazing” column about this franchise restaurant that must have the lowest food overhead for the dollar in the city. Above is a shot of the entrée portion of our $86 (for two) din din.

We had a very entertaining server. But I was embarrassed when she brought a shaker of seasoning (left) to the table and proclaimed its miraculous good taste, available for purchase at the remarkably low price of $6. It just tasted like garlic salt to me.

The best thing I can say about the meal is that the beef was high-quality and mercilessly free of the harsh seasonings that flavored some of the other meats.

I found this description of fondue etiquette on Wikipedia:

As with other communal dishes fondue has an etiquette which can be both helpful and fun. Most often, allowing one’s tongue or lips to touch the dipping fork will be thought of as rude. With meat fondues one should use a dinner fork to take meat off the dipping fork. A “no double-dipping” rule also has sway: After a dipped morsel has been tasted it should never be returned to the pot. In longstanding Swiss tradition if a nugget of bread is lost in the cheese by a man he buys a bottle of wine and if such a thing happens to befall a woman she kisses the man on her left. Lately, rather more humorous twists on this have shown up in Switzerland such as young diners diving into the snow whilst clad only in underclothing.

We saw nobody running through the dining room in their underwear, but you go ahead.

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This just in from Woodfire Grill:

Soft shell crabs tonight! Only 5 dozen came into the city this morning and they will be here at Woodfire for tonight! They will be available on a “first-come, first-served basis”. Every spring we look forward to this day!

We also just got in some very fresh pastured lamb from the Johnson Family Farm in North Alabama and are about to spit roast the legs for tonight! Johnson Family Farm is a responsible producer of all natural grass-fed lamb.

Woodfire Grill is located at 1782 Cheshire Bridge Rd., 404-347-9566.

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I lunched today at the brightly decorated Little Bangkok (2225 Cheshire Bridge Rd., 404-315-1530). Many foodies regard this as the best Thai food in town. It’s certainly the best for the buck — even if finding a parking spot at lunchtime is difficult. (You can park next door during evening hours.)

I had my usual green curry chicken today and my friend Michael had a special, panang flounder. Our lunch, with soup, was just over $7 each.

Always be sure to check the specials board here. Now and then, you’ll find dishes you’ve probably never had before.

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Eric Asimov has an interesting story in the New York Times this week about drinking wine at home with teenagers. In it, he learns of a study that showed that introducing wine as part of a meal to teenagers in the home could have a positive impact:

Dr. Vaillant compared 136 men who were alcoholics with men who were not. Those who grew up in families where alcohol was forbidden at the table, but was consumed away from the home, apart from food, were seven times more likely to be alcoholics than those who came from families where wine was served with meals but drunkenness was not tolerated.

Dr. Vaillant goes on to say:

“If you are taught to drink in a ceremonial way with food, then the purpose of alcohol is taste and celebration, not inebriation,” he added. “If you are forbidden to use it until college then you drink to get drunk.”

Other experts quoted go on to say that the context of the setting is important. If the child sees the parents get drunk, then the child will see that as appropriate use of alcohol.

I grew up in a country that is much more relaxed about alcohol consumption, and where it was acceptable for teenagers to start drinking at a much earlier age (and where the drinking age is 18). My father always allowed me to taste his wine, even as a child, and once I was about 14 I was allowed to have a glass myself. I do think this instilled an appreciation and ability to taste wine rather than just swig it to get drunk. On the other hand, I saw my parents’ friends and sometimes my parents drink heavily at the table and beyond. And I did spend a lot of my teenage years and 20s drinking for the express purpose of getting drunk. I’m not sure I can blame my parents or their behavior for my teenage drinking — I was fairly compelled to do whatever I could to be as stupid as possible for a while in there — but I am sure I can thank my early wine tasting and education for my palate, at least in part.

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Woo-hoo! All the beer and bacon you can eat, plus crazy improv. It’s BaconFest ‘08, benefiting Dad’s Garage Theatre Company. The lovely ladies of Atlanta Dish have the story here.

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Hey, it’s a serious question. Read about all about it here. Meanwhile, check out the PETA porn below:

And you can gawk at the winners of the 2008 “Sexiest Vegetarians Next Door” contest here.

Yay! Veganism=Orgasms!

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On April 14, approximately one month after a tornado ripped through downtown and ravaged most of Cabbagetown, a dine-out has been planned to benefit those affected in the Atlanta neighborhood. The event was planned by Rich Chey, owner of HomeGrown Restaurant Concepts and the recently opened Stella Neighborhood Trattoria in Grant Park. Twelve local restaurants will donate 15 percent of the proceeds earned from 5 p.m. to close (some restaurants will also donate lunch proceeds) to Cabbagetown Initiative’s disaster relief fund, which provides assistance to those who suffered from tornado damage.

It is a worthy cause and another reason not to cook on a Monday night.

Participating restaurants include:

Stella Neighborhood Trattoria, Six Feet Under, Redfish, Dakota Blue, Agave, Grant Central Pizza, The Standard, 97 Estoria, Flatiron, The Depot, Ria’s Bluebird and Vickery’s in Glenwood Park. For more information on the dine-out and directions to participating locations, visit www.AtlantaTornadoRelief.com.

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I dined at Carroll Street Café (208 Carroll St., 404-577-2700) in Cabbagetown a few nights ago. I was glad to see that it, and the other businesses on Carroll Street, had not been shut down by tornado damage.

As much as I like this restaurant’s specials (like the leg of lamb at right), I was not impressed with the tapas. An example is a take on lox and cream cheese (top photo), served with pita bread. The lox tastes lost in its place atop cucumber “boats.” A cheese pizza and some (not-very) Thai beef weren’t much better.

Nonetheless, everything else about the place is compelling even if you just drop by for espresso or a glass of wine. It’s a romantic spot that reeks of European style.

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What is it (top photo)? An exploded paper bag? The cocoon of a pod person? No, it’s a Lebanese dessert called ashta that features a light custard wrapped in filo. It’s all about a creamy texture meeting a crunchy one and giving you a highly floral whiff of oranges.

The dessert is on the menu at Zaya Mediterranean Cuisine (240 N. Highland Ave., 404-477-0050), the latest restaurant to open in the rapidly growing area of North Highland Avenue near its intersection with Elizabeth Street.

Our meal, mainly small plates, was a mixed success. The “drunken Halloumi,” a Cypriot cheese seared in olive oil, flambéed with ouzo and served over tomato slices (above), arrived at the table nicely charred but with the consistency of taffy. The tomatoes were unpleasantly mealy.

We fared better with other dishes. I’ll have a first look at Zaya in Grazing next week.

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Here’s a pleasant memory … and the best paella I’ve ever tasted. The restaurant, whose name I’ve forgotten, is in Montefrio, outside Granada, in Spain. We rented a house there almost 10 years ago. It was winter and the house, up a mountain side, only had a fireplace and a couple space heaters to keep us warm.

We visited this restaurant down the hill from us twice daily. You had to order a paella during the day for the evening meal. The tables held hot coals covered with heavy blankets to keep diners warm.

It was really a magical, inexpensive vacation (pre-Euro!). When we left for Granada, it began snowing as we drove through the olive groves .

You can see a picture of Montefrio on the website of our host, Lorenzo. Unfortunately, costs are now at least double what they were 10 years ago, thanks to the devalued dollar.

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Meantime India Pale Ale
Meantime Brewing Company
Greenwich, UK
7.5% ABV

Brewed by an upstart British craft brewery that is less than a decade old, this India Pale Ale successfully bridges the gap between British and American versions of the style. British Fuggles and East Kent Goldings hops imbue this cloudy, orange ale with abundant floral and citrus aroma and flavor, as well as a grassy, earthy quality. Pleasingly sweet pale malts are light on the tongue and bring out bready and fruity notes. There’s a green apple and pear tartness, as well as some tropical fruit flavors of pineapple and melon. Not overly bitter or resiny, this is very easy drinking for such a complex and sturdy IPA. At 7.5% ABV, it is stronger than most English versions, but the alcohol is well hidden. Meantime IPA is a great introduction to the style that American brewers have taken to extremes, but that the Brits still brew with admirable restraint.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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I picked up a late dinner from Daddy D’z (264 Memorial Dr., 404-222-0206) in Grant Park Monday night. Owner Ron Newman pointed at a billboard across the street that advertises the new film, Tyler Perry’s Meet the Browns. The movie includes scenes filmed at Daddy D’z last year.

Newman was a little bummed that his popular barbecue joint is renamed “Bibs and Ribs” in the movie. No kidding. What a repulsively cutesy name. I haven’t seen the movie, but I’ve read a few reviews. If they are accurate, Daddy D’z is a much better experience than Bibs and Ribs. In other words: the movie appears to be bombing.

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Creative Loafing is helping Atlantans explore more with its 2008 Urban Explorer’s Handbook. The special pullout section hits streets tomorrow, and will be available online at atlurbex.com.

Check out the official press release.

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Chefs Kent and Kevin Rathbun show their adorable faces on the CBS morning talk show where former opponent, Chef Bobby Flay, regularly corresponds with short segments on food issues.

The Iron Chef champions will appear on “The Early Show” tomorrow morning (Tuesday, March 25), preparing “Tomahawk Chop” and other steak dishes for Julie Chen and the rest of “The Early Show” gang.

The show begins at 7 a.m.

Then, on May 4th, Kevin Rathbun will celebrate Rathbuns’ 4th anniversary and Kevin Rathbun Steak’s first anniversary.

The “Barbecue and Blues” afternoon party will include a band, Rathbun’s favorite barbecue dishes and beer and wine.

The celebration will be from 3-7 p.m. at Rathbun’s. The cost is $50 per person. Reservations are limited, so call soon.

For reservations and more information call 404-524-8280 or visit www.restaurantsinatlanta.com.

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Mr. Steakhead accepted my challenge to compare the brisket at Rolling Bones and Fox Bros. B-B-Q. I was sure that if he did this, he would find the former’s superior. It is usually moist and delectably tangy. Steakhead reports the results on his Atlanta Eats blog here. Of course, he found Fox Bros.’ better. He writes:

[Fox Bros.’] brisket may be served dry (without sauce), but the meat is moist and tender. The flavor is much smokier than RB. Nick, my partner in crime for this all day fiesta, raves about the sides at Fox Brothers, and he is right. The baked beans here put to shame the pintos offered at RB. Fox Brothers also offers a bigger selection, including brunswick stew. So, in the end, it really wasn’t that close. Fox Brothers won on all three areas I was judging- brisket, sides, atmosphere.

Alright. I agree that Fox Bros. has the better atmosphere. I don’t like eating-in at Rolling Bones. I also agree with his assessment of the side dishes. But I have yet to taste “moist and tender” brisket at Fox Bros.

Mr. Steakhead reports that following his St. Patrick’s Day progressive dinner, he went to Limerick Junction where he drank “several (maybe more) pints.” Following his colossal bender of barbecue and beer, he stumbled in the parking lot and injured his knee. Granted, this followed his taste tests, but can we be sure of his sobriety prior to eating?…

Dua, a Vietnamese restaurant has opened downtown at 53 Broad Street, according to Mr. Micropundit’s March 24 post on E Gullet. He also reports that Dish, which closed a few months back, will be home to a new project called Diesel. (Original plans for Dish to continue under the ownership of a former chef fell through.)…

Matt, who writes the incomparably hip Rowdy Food blog, has fallen in love with Corner Pizza. He sings:

The crust is better. It is evolving. It is slowly becoming a more uniformly thin pie. The crispy bottom is consistent. Then the bite, when the tooth penetrates the crispy crust and enters an immediate zone of chew. Now we can look at cheese and sauce. This most recent pie had a much better ratio of cheese to sauce to crust. At this rate, we may catch New York?

Matt apparently shares my preference for thin-crusted pizza. Read his entire review here. It includes a link to his You Tube video about the place.

Matt also has a post with some gossip, including this welcome news about Pura Vida:

Hector Santiago will apparently be opening up a new restaurant downstairs from his current restaurant Pura Vida. When Pura Vida gets full, they have occasionally used this space for over-flow dining. In the next month or so, this space will become an small upscale restaurant with a chef’s table. Sounds pretty cool.

We reported this six months or more ago. I hope it’s actually gonna happen now. Read the rest of Matt’s gossip and see some photos of the much anticipated Holeman & Finch here….

Cathy of Live to Nibble reports on a visit to Cypress Street Pint and Plate, which has replaced Toast. Read her comments here.