Friday lunch at Home, where Richard Blais is now cooking
May 2nd, 2008 by Cliff Bostock in Restaurants“You know me. My food is under-promised and over-delivered,” Chef Richard Blais told my table of five at lunch today. It’s a perfect description of what he’s doing at Home (111 W. Paces Ferry Rd., 404-869-0777). Reading the menu, you’ll think Blais is cooking the usual comfort food around town. But when you start eating, you’ll be blown away by the flavors and unexpected flourishes. Below are a few of the dishes we sampled.
A simple salad features buttery lettuces, organically grown like most ingredients used here, and chunks of the best blue cheese any of us had ever tasted. Blais said he is buying many of his ingredients from small growers who are coming by the restaurant with everything from a bag of carrots to a hundred duck eggs. The menu changes every day, depending on what’s shown up.
Pea soup was my favorite when I was a kid and this was amazing. Besides the fresh peas, it included bits of pulled ham hock, lemon verbena and a cloud of horseradish foam. A perfect spring dish.
This is prime New York strip steak over creamed spinach, topped with Vidalia onion rings. A whiskey jus anoints the plate.
Here’s your personal veal meatloaf with chopped green beans, tomato marmalade and mashed potatoes.
Desserts weren’t quite as impressive as our other courses, but this apple-crumb cake was first-rate.
The restaurant, owned by Tom Catherall, is little changed in its appearance since its last incarnation as Posh. Service is top-flight, too. If you go, ask for Caleb, waitron of the week, who worked at Prime for five years.
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