Farm-to-table a farmhand can afford
August 11th, 2008 by Cliff Bostock in Restaurants
The best deal I’ve found in a restaurant in quite a while was The Glenwood’s first “summer farm dinner” last Monday, Aug. 4. We dined on five very good courses, featuring the produce of Scharko Farms, for $35.
The meal concluded with this “raspberry Napoleon” with lemon-verbena cream, surrounded by a mint moat. I am ultra-picky about raspberries, which seem to be the most abused berry on the planet. There was no abuse here. The raspberries were so flavorful, they rendered everything else on the plate back-up material. But I liked the novel combination with mint.
The fifth course (above right) was slices of medium-rare venison with arugula salad, corn pudding and black berries. Chef Ryan Stewart stopped by our table while we were eating this and waxed eloquently about how deer are eating berries and corn this time of year, so that the plate was like an ode to summer. Then he mentioned that the venison was from New Zealand and, it being winter there now, we wondered if he had not spoiled his ode. He agreed and moved on to another table.
We didn’t mind, because the plate, like all others, was delicious no matter who is eating whom this month.
We were especially impressed by the first course — “heirloom tomato water” with cucumber and basil sorbet. I assumed the name was a “food-ism” for tomato juice, but it actually was clear. One of the restaurant managers explained to us that Stewart squeezed the tomato’s pulp through a filter, leaving behind the essence of tomato. One complaint only: The tiny bowl’s sorbet was almost completely melted when it hit the table. I would have liked a more substantial taste of it.
Check the restaurant’s website regularly for other special dinners. By the way, work has begun on The Glenwood’s expansion into an adjoining space. Look for a smoke-free space with a wine bar.
(As always, full disclosure requires that we report that Chef Ryan Stewart is married to our cuisine editor, Besha Rodell. But, honestly, this East Atlanta Village gastro-pub is unique in our city.)
August 12th, 2008 at 9:41 am
I went with my mom and sister and we all agreed this is one of the best deals out there. It was all stellar, but the quail dish with the field pea pistou was the clear standout for me. Sweet Lord, that was delicious! We’re keeping our eyes out for the next one…
August 12th, 2008 at 11:53 am
When I was last at Glenwood, the cigarette smoke overwhelmed me, although the food was excellent. I’ll wait for the non-smoking room to open.
August 12th, 2008 at 12:10 pm
I went to this event and loved it. $35 for five good size courses is a deal, and even better my boyfriend and I split the wine pairing and found the pours to be quite generous. A total bargain, the food was great, and the service was friendly. Can’t ask for much more (although next time, fingers crossed the wine will be a bit colder!)
August 12th, 2008 at 6:34 pm
I wanted to like The Glenwood, I really did. I love pubs of all types. When I finally ventured over there on a weeknight about a month ago, I found the smoke overwhelming and the food nothing to brag about. Everything on my plate tasted like a leftover that should have been tossed the night before; even my friend\\\’s black bean burger was just nothing special. What gives? Why is everyone excited about this place? On another note: the bartender was great, poured a perfect beer, gave great suggestions; and our server was wonderful.
August 12th, 2008 at 8:30 pm
I enjoy The Glenwood. The food is great for the most part, however, this place sorely needs to improve their wine list. Hopefully this will happen once they expand the space and develop the “wine bar.” For now, the majority of the wines are just plain pathetic. I’ll definitely be sticking to the beer list.