Omnivore Atlanta

Here’s some good news: Carmen Cappello has reopened the Lamplighter in Grant Park. Cappello left an announcement on an earlier post, but it’s worth top billing:

Hello Omnibloggers –

Just wanted to let everyone know that Lamplighter reopened Monday, Sept. 22. Below is our menu from Monday night.

Brunch begins this Sunday, Oct. 5, at 11 a.m.

Lunch begins Tuesday, Oct. 14, at 11 a.m.

Please check http://www.lamplighteratl in the coming weeks for more info.

First course

Tomato, Red Onion & Goat Cheese Salad, Croutons, Basic Dressing 6
New England Clam Chowder 5
Hummus, EVOO, Toasted Naan 3
Romaine, Roasted Garlic Dressing, Parmesan, Anchovy 4
Antipasta, Guanciale, Coppa, Sicilian Tuna, Italian Olive Salad 7

Second Course

Hanger Steak, Sautéed Vegetables, Lentils 15
Mussels, Coppa, Tomatoes, Onion, EVOO, Bread 12
House Burger (no temp, always well done), Scrapple, Fried Egg, American cheese, Salad 10
Mezze Penne, Mushrooms, White Beans & Tomato Butter 12
Skewered Shrimp, Toasted Potatoes, Kale, Chimichurri Sauce 14

Dessert

Bread Pudding 5
Chocolate Mousse 5

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Ever wanted to take revenge on restaurants that done you wrong? Here’s one Atlantan’s problem:

I was in high school, and needed a job. I applied at a local restaurant called “Atlanta Bread Company.” The manager at this particular restaurant was a complete bitch. I could go on forever about how she made me wait for an hour only to talk to me like a child, but… just trust me. This whore needed to be slapped. I did not slap her, though. Nay, I simply walked out peacefully and held a grudge for 5 years. Not a day goes by since then that I don’t drive by said restaurant and get a bitter feeling in my stomach.

Yesterday, I went to a Burger King. I’m not a huge BK fan, and this day reminded me why. The service was slow, the food was disgusting, and the cashier (who was clearly the product of a brother/sister marriage) was as much of a bitch as the bread lady.

That’s the setup. You have to read the entire (funny) post here, in order to understand how the writer plotted simultaneous revenge on both restaurants…if you can call the recording below revenge.

Got that? This person must have an easygoing disposition to find this adequate vengeance for five years of bitterness and a really bad burger.

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Just in case you haven’t noticed, Richard Blais has been on the road constantly since his departure from Home in early September. But you can keep up with him on his eponymous blog here. It’s well written and entertaining.

As Besha noted earlier, Blais’ departure from Home was no surprise to his longtime fans and viewers of his performance on Bravo’s “Top Chef”. While he brought his usual wit and deconstructive style to the Southern cooking at Home, it was clear that he wasn’t expressing the usual depth of his imagination.

Explanations for his departure from Home in the AJC were courteous but said little about what we all knew was likely the issue: artistic freedom. Blais laid things out quite clearly in a blog post written the day after he resigned:

As an artist, it’s all about creative control. It’s all that matters (at least when it can afford to be all that matters), and the constant struggle between an owner’s view, and a chef’s perspective, has strained me to the point of re-focusing my efforts elsewhere.

It’s time to work for myself, and it’s a liberating feeling.

I have my current commitments to Bravo/NBC, my creative consulting company Trail Blais and my young family to keep me more than busy.

What made my decision very easy were a few uncomfortable meetings, where it was obvious that ownership didn’t value what I brought to the table and were insistent on a very archaic outlook of my position. HOME valued my physical time only, of which at times was limited because of prior commitments. When entering into this partnership, I laid out my full slate of commitments and everything was checked off on and approved. But “in theory” and “in practice” are two different things, I guess.

Read the entire post here.

Artistic freedom is an issue raised constantly by chefs at all levels — not just by celebrity chefs like Blais. Sometimes, they fight with management over cost of first-rate ingredients. Other times, it’s about the “vision thing.” Sometimes, it’s the grim reality that the public doesn’t appreciate the “edgy” work of particularly creative chefs. That, I’m afraid, is part of the reason Chefs Guenter Seeger, Sotohiro Kosugi and Joel Antunes left our city. Blais himself left Atlanta for a stint in Miami at one point.

Part of the strange, even ironic situation with Blais’ departure is that owner Tom Catherall, with whom Blais apparently conflicted, made his name in Atlanta as one of our city’s most inventive chefs, starting with Azalea in 1990, followed by Tom Tom at Lenox Square. Azalea was really the city’s first fusion restaurant and a rare chef-driven one. I had many memorable meals there, including some by guest chefs like Stephan Pyles.

I’m not sure that Catherall’s cuisine was as edgy in its time as Blais’ version of molecular gastronomy is now, but it’s certainly true that both chefs, um, blazed new trails in our city’s culinary life. It might have been cool to see them work out a less compromising compromise rather than terminate their association.

I do remember that Catherall, the Azalea chef, ended his business partnership with Todd Kane, the businessman, when he opened Tom Tom. I have no idea if artistic freedom was an issue.

We are lucky to have some very gifted chefs in Atlanta, and I hope more choose to stick around like Blais. I find myself already urging people to waste no time trying the cooking of Bruce Logue at La Pietra Cucina and David Sweeney of Dynamic Dish. I have no reason other than gastronomical paranoia to expect them to leave Atlanta or change venues … but it does happen a lot.

About 25 years ago, I wrote a brief photo-essay for the AJC on the city’s first restaurant, Nikolai’s Roof, to receive a four-star rating from the Mobil Guide. The opening chef was the late Heinz Schwab, who went on to open Hedgerose Heights. (He had worked as Anne Cox Chambers’ personal chef.) Schwab told me he was shocked how easy it was at the time to manipulate Atlanta diners. A complex, labor-intensive dish would easily be outsold by any dish that he garnished with a piece of lobster. (I’ve heard this same example from other chefs.)

We’ve certainly evolved beyond that. Blais makes the point in the post cited above that the city is really ready once again for restaurants that depart from the norm, if only owners get savvy:

For the first time, it is clear to me, that I am in the position where the guests’ threshold of creativity has reached a parallel with a successful business model. Meaning I think Atlanta is ready for a restaurant that stretches. I know that if it is going to happen in Atlanta, it’s going to happen soon.

I’m glad to see Blais speaking out about these issues. It feels to me like he’s committed to seeing our culinary scene take another step in its evolution. Maybe that comes with marriage, a new baby and getting a huge thumbs-up from the entire country for his imaginative cooking. I’m just glad he’s talking.

(Photo of Richard Blais by James Camp. Tom Maicon of Atlanta Cuisine writes a good summary of Blais’ career prior to Home here.)

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I woke up this morning to the voice of Bonny Wolf, who does weekly food commentary on  NPR’s Weekend Edition on Sundays.

This morning’s comment was entitled “The Problem with Dining in Restaurants,” and she manages, in three minutes, to take a swipe at just about every annoyance one routinely encounters when dining out these days. She even takes a swipe at the new server question, “Is this your first time to dine with us?,” that  Besha brought up a few months back. (Bonny recommends you say “yes” whether you have or not.)

Hear the commentary at NPR’s site.

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We hit Saturday’s pig roast at Cabbagetown Market. Here’s farmer Mike Aiken of Waco, Ga., at the smoker, which was placed in the lot next to the market, along with a community table. I’ve never heard of a Waco in Georgia, but Mr. Aiken told me it’s off the last exit of I-20 west, just before you cross the state line into Alabama.

The pulled barbecue was lightly smoky, just enough on the fatty side to provide a full blast of flavor. I confess I didn’t much care for the sauce served with it — one of those ketchupy-like, sweet sauces. I prefer the coastal Carolina types, with plenty of vinegar.

Cabbagtown Market provided side dishes, including cheese grits with collards and some especially good cornbread. I also ordered some sliced tomatoes. (The Market buys its eggs from Mr. Aiken, by the way.)

I ran into Jennifer Zyman, the Blissful Glutton, and her boyfriend Mr. Moonie. Jennifer, who also writes CL’s Cheap Eats column, said she is leaving to visit India in a few days. She’ll be stopping in Turin, for the truffle festivities there. I’m not jealous, really I’m not.

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Don’t miss this: Cabbagetown Market (198 Carroll St.) will host a pig roast 12 noon-6 p.m. this Saturday, Sept. 27. It’s part of Eat Local Week.

The event will feature a Tamworth pig, smoked and served by farmer Mike Aiken. Plates, with two side dishes prepared by the Market, will cost $10. Sandwiches, made with the Bread Garden’s brioche, will cost $7.50, with one side included.

You’ll also find local beer, local music and lotsa local yokels.

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The metro-area operator of 10 Sonny’s Real Pit Bar-B-Q restaurants has filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection. Four closed yesterday, including the Cheshire Bridge Road, Indian Trail, Smyrna and Austell locations.

The Atlanta Business Chronicle reports that locations in Athens, Conyers, Marietta, Buford, Jonesboro and Lawrenceville remain open. Get the whole story here.

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This just in. I have removed many adjectives from the original text:

Watershed restaurant will celebrate its 10th anniversary 5-9 p.m. Oct. 27.

The evening will feature live music, games, raffles, a cakewalk and Chef Scott Peacock’s legendary Southern cuisine. The menu will also feature barbecue by award-winning pit master Jimmy Hagood of BlackJack Barbeque in Charleston, SC.

Admission is $100 and total proceeds will benefit Plymouth Harbor which provides assistance to senior adults and their caretakers. Edna Lewis, Peacock’s famous mentor,  attended Plymouth Harbor in her later years.

Watershed is the collaborative creation of Indigo Girls’ Emily Saliers and Peacock, a James Beard award winner.

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Taste Network sponsors the Slow & Smoky Sunday Supper (a Slow Food Fundraising event) on Sun. Sept. 28th at 6 p.m. Held in the TROIS private dining room, this pork-tastic five-course dinner includes French wine pairings and meat from Split Cedar Farms and Smoky Mountain Country Hams. Mixologist Eric Simpkins will be stirring up some conceptual cocktails in the bar, while guests meet with local farmers and chefs, Jeremy Leib and Matt Harris. Walk-ups are welcome as long as you’re carrying checks or cash. Click here to buy your ticket online. ($105 per person).

(Photo from Wikimedia Commons)

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Weihenstephaner Korbinian
Brauerei Weihenstephan
Freising, GER
7.4% ABV

I enjoy a dry, toasty Oktoberfest as much as the next stein-hoisting temporary German, but my favorite fall beer is still a rich, nutty dopplebock. Weihenstephan is the self-proclaimed oldest brewery in the world, and they know a thing or two about perfection. This “dunkles starkbier” (dark strong beer) is loaded with malty goodness, embedding flavors of chocolate, mild coffee, soy, and raisin bread into a beer brewed with only four ingredients. An earthy, herbal bitterness is the only hint of hops, but this autumnal brew is all about the malt. Like an artisanal bakery on a rain-soaked November day.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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5 chefs, 5 pigs, at 5 Seasons Brewing. Find out who of Atlanta’s kitchen kings will be crowned the “Prince of Pork” or the “Sultan of Swine,” Mon. Sept. 29th from 6-10 p.m. ($60 per person) at 5 Seasons Prado. Proceeds support farmers and chefs attending the Terra Madre Conference in Turin, Italy.

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This strange apparition, shot with my mediocre camera in practically no light, is the grilled Caesar salad at The Porter Beer Bar (404-223-0393), the latest gastropub to open in town.

Located in Little Five Points at 1156 Euclid Ave., The Porter has received a lot of attention since owner-chef Nick Rutherford and sous-chef Austin Dreier are both former employees of the defunct Seeger’s, long regarded as one of the nation’s best restaurants. Molly Gunn, Rutherford’s fiancee and co-owner, also worked at Seeger’s. Rutherford was last at the Chocolate Bar in Decatur, where he produced some of the city’s most whimsical desserts.

This partial decontruction of the classic Caesar salad includes a grilled “boat” of Romaine lettuce, stuffed with white anchovies, aged Asisago and some garlicky croutons. My entree was a special of beef Stroganoff made with meatballs. It’s great, slightly kinky food at low prices. And there are over 100 bottled and draft beers avaialable.

The new gastropub has been attracting capacity crowds, so you might want to go early….or late. It’s open until midnight every day except Saturday night when it closes at 2 a.m. I’ll have more to say in next week’s Grazing column.

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On September 27th, chef Carmen Cappello will prepare five farm-fresh Southern courses to be paired with five local brews. The dinner will feature produce from Georgia’s Terra Madre farmer delegates. This Slow Food Event is located at the Studioplex and begins at 7:30 p.m. Planning on attending? Mail a check for $75 (which includes tax and tip) to:

Slow Food Atlanta, 4148 Kings Troop Rd. Stone Mountain, GA 30083

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That’s right, Cuban sandwich lovers. There’s no point in holding out hope that the Kool Korner Grocery on 14th Street will reopen.

Clark Brown, a photographer who owns the next-door Kool Korner Gallery with his wife, confirms that the corner property has been sold to a developer and the old tenants are moving out. In fact, Brown says, grocery owner Silvesonso Ramirez has already relocated to Birmingham, Ala., to be near his son.

Perhaps he’ll open a sandwich shop there.

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Not one, but 10 of the burrito joints are planned in our dear city over the next three years. Specific locations include Midtown, Vinings and Buckhead.

What’s Barberitos? Think Willy’s, but with spinach tortillas and fish tacos as added options to the menu.

Hat tip to Joe Guy Collier at the AJC, who has the coolest name of anybody at that paper.

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Stone Mountain Park hosts the grandest chili fest east of Texas, Sat., Sept. 27. More than $10,000 in prize money will be awarded, so if you have a taste for competitive chili, you’ll love this. Cooks will compete for titles like Best Of, Peoples Choice, and Showmanship. All proceeds support Camp Twin Lakes, a non-profit organization for children with mental and physical disabilities. For directions or additional information, click here.

(Photo by KyleandMelissa22)

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Learning kimchee, by trial and error

By Gene Lee

Kimchi… People either love or hate it. If you were born into it like I was, 99.99% of the time you love it. Koreans, especially older ones, are so fanatically addicted to this dish that they are probably the only race group that will immediately go looking for a Korean restaurant in their first hours on vacation in Rome. I am not kidding.

I am not quite as obsessed as the older generation but understand this craving. Over a decade ago I lived in Aspen, CO, which is hundreds of miles away from Denver - the closest city that I knew of (at the time) that had Korean restaurants. One month into being fortified in that little Hollywood ski town, the cravings for the hot Korean stews, various Banchan (small side dishes) vegetables, steaming bowl of rice and the addictive sour crunchiness of Baechu (cabbage) kimchi started scratching at my salivary glands. I could make the barbeque meats, substandard versions of the soups, and steam the Mahatma white rice that you see in every grocery store in America, but I could not make nor find kimchi anywhere.

Three months into my stay there my cravings for better Korean food, and especially the tangy and fiery flavors of kimchi, reached a fever pitch. That was that. I set out for Denver alone on a Saturday morning with a few scribbled restaurant listings from the cities’ Yellow Pages (the internet and wi-fi foothold really was not common in households at that time). When I got there, I found myself in a part of town akin to Atlanta’s Buford Highway. One long road with all sorts of ethnic eateries, peppered with a few Korean restaurants here and there. It even had the same sort of run-down look to it.

Needless to say, I got my fill that day and then some. Imagine if you’ve been lost in the desert for 3 days without food and water and you cross over a sand hill, and lo and behold there’s a Denny’s. Gorging ensued.

Even though I am closer to places that sell it pre-made in abundance, something always gnawed at me to be able to execute this recipe. Empty store-bought kimchi jars were overflowing in my condo reused as dry food storage, kitchen utensil holders or makeshift grease traps. And I was tired of having to drive 20-30 minutes out of my way on a bi-monthly basis just to buy it (even though it sure beats the 4 hour drive I had to make in Colorado).

Presently, I have made feeble to whole-hearted attempts at making my own version of Baechu kimchi. I have referenced multiple online and print recipes and sought advice from ex-pats and family friends all over. I was met with disaster in my first attempt, and miscalculated disappointments in later efforts. Eleven attempts, multiple hours, and a skinnier wallet later, I have finally made a batch that I personally deem worthy to eat. My recipe has been a hybrid of all written and verbal research that I have collected over the years combined with a sense of “trial and error” intuition that none of the online or cookbook recipes ever conveyed.

(more…)

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I’ve revisited three new restaurants during the last few days. You may be sick of hearing about it, but the first was La Pietra Cucina. Look at this special (above) I had for lunch last Friday.

It’s veal hanger steak, sliced and placed over Swiss chard and polenta, surrounded by oven roasted tomatoes and some kalamata olives. How many veal hanger steaks have you run into in our city? The contrast of the chard and sweet tomatoes really made this dish.

We also returned to