Omnivore - The Bureau opens on Edgewood Ave.

(NOTE: This is a repeat of an earlier post that was deleted due to software problems.)

We visited the Bureau (678-732-0067) yet another new gastropub, earlier this week. It’s located at 327 Edgewood Ave., a few doors west of Noni’s.

If the shot above looks arty, that’s because the place is. In fact, it adjoins a literal art gallery, completely open through the upstairs bar area. There’s also a large downstairs space with a huge bar.

The Bureau’s name alludes to the FBI...for reasons I still don’t understand, despite twice hearing explanations from restaurant staff.

Chef Jay Clark, whose resume includes stints at Babo in New York and with Shaun Doty in Atlanta, has assembled a compelling daily-changing menu. Dishes are divided into finger foods, plates, entrees and desserts. We sampled excellent chicken liver bruschetta (above) and a (too-oily, too-thinly-filled) pork rillete sandwich from the first category.

Wayne was elated to see poutine in the second category. It is a Canadian comfort food of French fries with cheese curds and brown gravy. If you eat the entire portion by yourself, you will not have room to eat anything else, but you will still gain 15 lbs. before you walk out the door.

Our entrees were terrific — hearty chicken paprikash for me and a very Provencal-like red snapper with eggplant, tomatoes and olives (above, left) for Wayne.

For dessert, we ordered an addictive granita made with pear cider and topped with chopped fresh pears. We also sampled a ganache-like chocolate cake.

More in an upcoming Grazing.

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)