Good cooking at Holy Taco … with one brazen exception
March 5th, 2009 by Cliff Bostock in Restaurants
Since it seems to come up so often in comments here, Wayne and I dined at Holy Taco (1314 Glenwood Ave., 404-230-6177) in East Atlanta Village Wednesday night. I felt particularly compelled to visit when I recently noticed that chicharrones are on the menu as a starter.
Father, forgive them, for they know not what they do when it comes to chicharrones. I love the usual versions — globs of pork fat with a bit of skin and meat stewed in tomatillo sauce or fried and folded in a tortilla with salsa verde. I’ve pigged out on them in Mexico and Houston.
So, you can imagine my shock when the plate pictured above came to the table. Yes, technically, these can be called chicharrones and are sold as such in Mexico. But these taste no different from the pork rinds I’ve eaten since I was a kid, when a bag of them at the Piggly Wiggly included a little plastic envelope of hot sauce. Indeed, while the menu calls them “chicharrones,” the tab referred to them, Southern-style, as “pork skins.” I think the menu should be clearer. These are not the usual taqueria-style chicharrones.
That aside, we had a killer meal. We were especially impressed by a sope topped with strips of pork belly and a poached egg, along with a red sauce and black beans.
A plate of lime-spiked carne asada with corn-and-jalapeno relish and a bowl of black beans on the side was nearly perfecto. Ditto for my tacos made with doubled corn tortillas. I tried the brisket, the skirt steak and roasted pork. All three were generously stuffed with the flavorful meats, cabbage, radishes and different salsas. But I still have the same complaint I had a year ago: the tacos need more salsa. Next time I’ll order some on the side.
I also ordered the flawless elote (above left), among the best in town.
Oh. Clean up the menu’s spelling; at least make it consistent. It’s “carne,” not “carna.”
(Photos by Cliff Bostock)
March 5th, 2009 at 11:06 am
The wanker makes a great pork belly torta too. Nom nom nom!
March 5th, 2009 at 11:57 am
What about the churros? Are they any good?
March 5th, 2009 at 10:01 pm
The churros are really good. A bit on the well done side, and the chocolate is a deep bittersweet.
I totally disagree, Cliff, about the taco:salsa quotient: I always order my tacos “hold the salsa”. I prefer it that way. To each their own…
March 6th, 2009 at 10:29 am
excellent Tortas too; and yes I think these guys make some of the best danged black beans I have ever had.
March 6th, 2009 at 11:39 am
The black beans are made with love….and pork belly.