Belgians invade Nation’s capital
April 22nd, 2009 by Jeff Holland in Drink
The Perfect Meal?: Mussels and frites with an Oude Geueze at Blega Cafe
While George W. was waging the War on Terror overseas, he failed to notice a foreign invasion right under his nose. The dingy Irish pubs and wood-paneled taverns of D.C. are being replaced by sophisticated Euro-style gastropubs and brasseries serving up mussels and frites with a side of homemade mayo or thin-crust artisan pizzas to pair with Flemish sours and American IPAs.
The District has always had a European feel, thanks to Pierre L’Enfant’s broad, diagonal boulevards and open spaces, and the height restriction on buildings that has shut out the glass and steel towers of the typical American city. But the high cost of living in the city has taken its toll on neighborhood saloons, where working stiffs rubbed elbows with government wonks and power brokers. Suddenly, the upwardly mobile are gaga over rabbit loin roasted in framboise or a terrine of veal cheeks, quail egg, frisee, and truffles, served with a $20 bottle of Cuvée du Keizer Grand Cru.
No less than three of these Belgian brasseries are located in the vicinity of the capitol. In addition, a wide selection of Belgian ales, on draft and in bottles, can be found at any number of slightly less expensive restaurants and bars serving everything from wood-fired pizza to nachos.
Belga Cafe is located in the gentrifying Eastern Market area of Capitol Hill, but its modest location does not mean it has moderate prices. Two beers and a pot of mussels set me back nearly $50, but to be fair it was a huge pot of the deliciously tender mollusks steamed in a broth of Rodenbach ale and topped with onions, asparagus, and bacon, served with rustic brown bread and a side of frites. Paired with an Oude Gueuze Vielle from Oud Beersel, a tart, dry and slightly musty wild ale, it made for a perfectly decadent evening repast.
Brasserie Beck, about 3 blocks from the Metro Center station on K Street at 11th Street NW, boasts 11 Belgian beers on draft, as well as an impressive bottle list of hard to find specialty ales. The menu includes platters of fresh seafood, starters in the range of what I like to pay for entrées, and main course like the aforementioned rabbit loin and crispy skate wing, and lamb shank with white beans. Poste Brasserie, in the Hotel Monaco in Penn Quarter, is the choice of the theater-going crowd. More of fine dining establishment than a gastropub, it has a limited selection of bottled beer that includes a few choice Belgians.
Rustic Contemporary: The groovy lounge at Rustico
For a more relaxed atmosphere, try one of the two Pizzeria Paradisio locations, on P Street west of Dupont Circle, and on M Street in Georgetown. The Georgetown location has the better selection of beers, along with a cozy downstairs bar, but to get there you will have to fight the hordes of Prada-wearing socialites that cruise M Street shopping at the boutique stores. And good luck finding a parking space. It’s a brisk walk from the GWU Metro Station. Along with a fine selection of Belgians (I researched last week’s Talking Head column on tripels there), Paradisio has a number of taps devoted to the best that American craft brewers have to offer, including many not found in Atlanta, like Moylans Hopsickle, Troeg’s Nugget Nectar, and Bear Republic Double IPA. The pizzas are mighty good, too.
Across the Potomac in Alexandria, Rustico has a similar approach to Pizzeria Paradiso, with wood-fired pizza and an extensive tap list, but the vibe is more clubby lounge than frentic pub. Retro 70s captains chairs line the bar, earthy tiles adorn the walls and swank leather furniture surrounds a cozy fireplace. Along with pizzas, Rustico offers a tapas-style bar menu and a full spate of entrees. Over two dozen draft beers are offered and are cleverly organized by flavor, such as “Rich & Roasty,” and “Hop!” rather than by style. It’s a laid-back alternative to the Beale Street–like atmosphere of nearby King Street.
If you’ve always dreamed of a beer-tasting trip to Belgium but your hours have been cut and your 401K is kaput, Washington is an attractive alternative. Just remember to save some of that money from the cheaper airline ticket to cover DC’s inflated beer prices.
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