Omnivore Atlanta

The Perfect Meal?: Mussels and frites with an Oude Geueze at Blega Cafe

While George W. was waging the War on Terror overseas, he failed to notice a foreign invasion right under his nose. The dingy Irish pubs and wood-paneled taverns of D.C. are being replaced by sophisticated Euro-style gastropubs and brasseries serving up mussels and frites with a side of homemade mayo or thin-crust artisan pizzas to pair with Flemish sours and American IPAs.

The District has always had a European feel, thanks to Pierre L’Enfant’s broad, diagonal boulevards and open spaces, and the height restriction on buildings that has shut out the glass and steel towers of the typical American city. But the high cost of living in the city has taken its toll on neighborhood saloons, where working stiffs rubbed elbows with government wonks and power brokers. Suddenly, the upwardly mobile are gaga over rabbit loin roasted in framboise or a terrine of veal cheeks, quail egg, frisee, and truffles, served with a $20 bottle of Cuvée du Keizer Grand Cru.

No less than three of these Belgian brasseries are located in the vicinity of the capitol. In addition, a wide selection of Belgian ales, on draft and in bottles, can be found at any number of slightly less expensive restaurants and bars serving everything from wood-fired pizza to nachos. (more…)

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Wow. I challenge anyone to exceed me.

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When I heard that Food 101 Morningside is planning for an April 29 Widespread Panic tribute dinner, my first thought was that I needed to stay the hell away. When I was in high school, WP coming to town meant that the cops were out in full force arresting all my friends.

Since I’ve looked at the menu, however, I think it might be time for those wounds to heal. And I think ribs and whiskey should take care of that.

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There’s a new cafe in the Lamplighter building in Grant Park. I’ll have details in a day or two. …

I see that Rolling Bones, the cool barbecue joint on Edgewood Avenue is for sale:

This BBQ restaurant is a cinch to operate with a full staff in place making for a flawless transition. This is one concept poised for major expansion and is a perfect vehicle for national franchising. Everything is needed to take the next step along with great training from current Owner and Staff. Super Intown Metro Atlanta with with hi visibility with hi traffic and walk up trade. 1300/SF with 450/sf patio and drive thru. This building has won major awards for its incredible and very cool design. Well established with same Owner for over five years. All equipment, furniture, fixtures and smokers are in excellent shape. Fully equipped kitchen can pump out any volume. Seats over 40 inside and almost 40 on the outside patio. Gross sales of $700,000.00 with $80,000.00 after paying full staff and expenses. Priced at $95,000.00 for the business with a monthly lease at $3500.00 per month or buy business and Real Estate and all equipment, furniture, fixtures and smokers for $695,000.00.

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In recent weeks we have had an increasing problem with people pretending to be other well-known posters, bloggers and personalities. It has to stop. I’m asking nicely.

When you post a comment on Omnivore, I can look from the back end and see your IP address. So, if someone is posting as multiple people (and believe it or not, it appears that one poster is posting as multiple people and arguing with him-or-her SELF), I can tell. The only solution, if this does not stop, is to disallow the offending posters. I’d hate to do that. But really, it’s only one or two people. So, if I have to, I will. Honestly I just have better things to do than police this dumb crap.

Post as yourself. Or make up a new screen name every time. Just don’t pretend to be someone you’re not. Please.

Thanks in advance for what I’m sure will be a mature decision.

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I’ve been cooped up at home with the cold from hell since last Thursday, but finally emerged today. I headed down Buford Highway to release my sinuses from bondage once and for all with some spicy food.

I decided to stop in Fiesta Foods in the Sun Tan Center (2839-2863 Buford Hwy.), the oddly named strip mall where Phuket used to be located. I headed to Taqueria el Sori in the back, where I intended to try just one taco but ended up having three.

The best part about my lunch, besides getting to practice my Spanish with some very friendly folks, was the array of sauces in giant molcajetes, especially this tangy, slightly fiery green sauce that tasted just-made. The cook insisted I also try her terrific salsa of nopales. And she pulled out a big bowl of sliced radishes too.

There’s also a cool juice bar inside the grocery.

More in an upcoming Grazing column.

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)

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This just in from Julia Leroy, chef at the Bookhouse Pub:

I want to let all of you know that the Bookhouse is starting up a community-based night called “Localvore Mondays.” The focus of the night is creating a menu that spotlights the local farmers and artisans that choose to offer an ethically sound product.

By supporting these farmers, we are putting money right back where it belongs, in the local economy. I know there are people in our community who are interested in feeding their conscience as well as there bellies, and I’m hoping to get the word out… so that’s why I’m contacting you! The menu is offered every Monday, from 5 til midnight.

It’s 4 courses for $35. So far we’ve featured Decimal Place Farms goat cheese, White Oak Pastures certified humane beef, Moore’s Mill Farm and Friends (produce), and Loganturnpike Mill (cornmeal and grits). As spring kicks into gear I’m looking forward to serving the delicious bounty that is grown all over our state. Thanks as always!

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Whoa! This, relative to the recent closing of Hot Stix, is from Repeat Atlanta:

According to unnamed sources, the owner/manager of Hot Stix at Lindbergh skipped town and left his employees no notice, nor did he pay them for hours prior to the abrupt closure. Many employees were said to have taken flat screen TVs and liquor from the restaurant when it became apparent they were not going to receive their paychecks. Outdoor patio furniture has also disappeared from the restaurant, presumably by angered employees looking to recoup something in lieu of no payment. When Repeat Atlanta stopped by earlier this week, much of the alcohol was gone from the bar and it was evident that at least two flat panel TVs were taken from walls and the patio furniture was missing.

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I was the underdog and I knew it. There was no way, on national TV, anyone was expecting much from a young chef from Atlanta. Especially my competitor. At the end, I was sweating. But so was he, in both the literal and street definition. It was a sneak attack. When I went to shake his hand, the superstar celebrity chef, he said “You should be cooking in London or New York.”

Huh?

It was both a compliment and an insult.

This is going to hurt a bit.  And, honestly, I’m a little hesitant to pull the verbal trigger. But Atlanta isn’t thought of very highly as a culinary city.  Yes, we’ve had our share of press and features in national publications. We’ve had a few chefs pop through the atmosphere to show up in the New York Times, or make appearances on TV. We have Food & Wine best new chefs, James Beard award winners and there are some nationally recognized restaurants.  Alton Brown even calls the Atlanta area home, I think.  But I’ve traveled a lot lately.  And more often than not, amidst professionals, chefs and foodies, when Atlanta gets mentioned…. well, what you get back is blank stares. Maybe the occasional mention of Seeger’s (still).  And almost always the odd comment, that “I knew a guy who worked at the Ritz Carlton Buckhead.”

Now, I’m going to rip the band-aid off.  We are a medium sized pond. With medium sized fish. And it’s a loose medium! It’s the perception, regardless of personal opinion. It’s cold fact.  It stings, right? (more…)

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DUCK! Winged bacon at Nak Dong Gang

It’s a rare occasion when a food writer is in a position to introduce someone to his country’s own cuisine. But that is exactly the situation I found myself in the other day when brunching at Nak Dong Gang Restaurant (7130 Buford Highway, Doraville, 770-242-0201). One of my companions was Gene Lee, the author of the formidable Atlanta food blog Eat Drink Man … A Food Journal (www.eatdrinkman.blogspot.com). Lee’s pristinely plated dishes, breathtaking photos and steadfast devotion to all things culinary make his site my undisputed favorite in the city. Given his prowess-especially with homespun Korean dishes inspired by his beloved mother’s cooking-I was surprised to learn he’d never eaten Korean-style duck, the specialty at Nak Dong Gang. A visit was in order. So, we bypassed the brunch flapjacks in favor of birds that quack.

Continue reading “Cheap Eats: Nak Dong Gang Restaurant”

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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GREAT BALLS OF RICE: The arancini at Cakes & Ale

Reviewing restaurants is a tricky game. We want to be fair, to give credit where it’s due, and to be respectful of the heart and hard work someone has put into a business. For that reason, we have guidelines — at CL we never do a full starred review before a restaurant has been open one month. A month isn’t a lot of time, and I often feel as though it’s not enough. A restaurant can take a few months to become what it’s destined to be.

So why not wait those few months to review? Because to be a part of the conversation, we need to weigh in early. By the time three months have gone by, people are talking about something new.

When I review, I rate based on what the restaurant is at the time, not based on what I expect the restaurant to become. This can be frustrating, for me and, I’m sure, for the chefs and owners of the restaurants. Often I can see the potential, but I have no way to say for sure whether that potential will be met.

For that reason I’ve decided to revisit some restaurants I felt had more potential than they achieved in those first few months. I wanted a chance to update star ratings and to give credit to businesses that are constantly evolving, and in these cases, becoming better.

Continue reading “Feature: Come again”

(Photo by James Camp)

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Is this cool or what? The Red and Black, the University of Georgia newspaper, reports that a student and professor there are helping keep chicken feet tasty:

“Phoenix claws” are not something most University students see on their plates at mealtimes. However, phoenix claws – the common restaurant name for chicken feet – are one of the poultry industry’s leading exports.

“In the past, chicken feet were considered a waste product; companies had to pay to get rid of it,” said Brian Fairchild, associate professor of poultry science, in a phone interview Tuesday. Nowadays, chicken feet, or paws, are a “major food item for Asian markets,” Fairchild said, [whereas] before they were used in animal feed.

Eric Shepherd, a master’s student from Griffin, is researching with Fairchild to determine factors that affect foot pad dermatitis, a condition in which “lesions develop [on the foot pad] due to interaction with a variety of environmental factors” in poultry. He wanted to work on his thesis “in live products,” and after discussing his options with Fairchild, the “hot issue” of downgrades from the dermatitis became his focus.

Dim sum lovers everywhere thank the University of Georgia. Go, you feathery dogs!

(Photo of chicken foot courtesy of redandblack.com.)

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Laurie Attaway, owner of two Gwinnett County restaurants, talks to the Gwinnett Business Journal about the “drastic” effect of the economy on business there:

“Everyone talks about the stock market and the housing market, but the trickle down effect is hitting us,” says Attaway, who owns Third Coast Grille and Aqua Terra Bistro in Buford. “People are watching the news and feeling so fearful that they’re not going to go out.”

Locally, the restaurant and hotel industries lost an estimated 1,100 combined jobs in Gwinnett County last year, according to the county’s Economic Analysis Division.

Attaway says her restaurants have both seen 42 percent drops in revenue over the past year. To combat the weaker sales, her restaurants have introduced half-price wine nights, prix-fixé meals and draft beer specials.

Of course, Attaway is not alone: “According to the National Restaurant Association, restaurant operators reported negative customer traffic levels for the 17th consecutive month in January 2009, the most recent figures.”

Meanwhile, though, an Atlanta-based firm thinks positively:

In RBC’s April survey of 2,717 consumers, 44 percent of the respondents said they were planning to spend less at restaurants during the next 90 days, an improvement from the 50-percent reading in March. The percentage of consumers who said they were planning to spend more at restaurants rose to 6 percent in April, from 5 percent in March.

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Check out Maureen Dowd’s Saturday column. It segues from George Lucas riffing on Dick Cheney and Darth Vader to a chat with Alice Waters.

She says she’s sick of hearing about diets and obesity in America, and believes neither would be so prevalent if her European-style “delicious revolution” succeeded.

Waters is a visionary. She imagines a “peace garden” on the Gaza Strip that would employ people “from all sides.” She imagines a high school where the kids could run the whole cafeteria themselves, learning math, nutrition, art and food. She imagines starting gardens at Monticello and Mount Vernon that would “become the source of all food in the White House.” She imagines food being covered on the front page and the business page — not the food page, or on TV by “lesser” reporters like “the weatherman.”

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Check out this podcast of the inimitable Christiane Lauterbach, publisher of Knife and Fork and Atlanta magazine columnist. In the podcast — I hope she does more — Christiane makes the interesting metaphorical observation that she couldn’t find Atlanta’s heart, but explored its arteries, like Buford Highway.

More than a few of us have bugged Christiane to take Knife and Fork online, but she resists. So you’re still locked into subscribing to the publication, absolutely the best source for dining reviews in our city. In the March issue, Christiane reviews Leon’s Full Service, Gorditas La Rancherita, Nectar, Pine Street Market and Social Restaurant & Wine Bar. She also reports on Cakes and Ale and The Glenwood, and summarizes a recent trip to Los Angeles.

Call 404-378-2775 to subscribe. It’s only $26 per year.

(Hat tip to the podcast’s host, Atlanta Pecha Kucha.)

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UPDATED BELOW (04/22/09)

I’m sick as a dog with either the worst cold I’ve had in years or the flu, following nearly two weeks of horrible allergies. So I’m barely eating. I just browse the Internet between naps.

This week’s Viral Video Chart is of course topped by Susan Boyle’s performance on Britain’s Got Talent. But this video from some workers at Domino’s also made the top 20 list:

Police have charged the two Conover, N.C., employees with distributing prohibited foods. Domino’s claims it was all a prank and the food was never delivered. Sure, sure.

Fox News has the story covered in detail, and provides links to a couple more videos.

UPDATE: The YouTube video has been banned but you can still see the two Domino’s employees in action here.

This video from Burger King, a strange commercial, also went viral during the last week:

The Texican’s marketing in Spain caused the Mexican ambassador to write an outraged letter to Burger King, which has in turned killed the ad and other marketing materials. It’s all about inappropriate display of the Mexican flag. Yahoo has the story.

Another recent Burger King vid has the morality police up in arms too. This time the complaint is about (the formerly gay) SpongeBob SquarePants’ eroticizing of the booty:

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FOX BROS. BAR-B-Q: Is there any Southern food the brothers Fox cannot transform into some wonderfully sleazy gut-bomb? Take their version of pimento cheese. It’s just your basic mix of aged cheddar, pepper jack, a dollop of mayo, chopped pimentos, cayenne peppers and a dash of their barbecue seasoning mix. However balanced and delicious the pimento cheese is, the presentation is what sets it off. Get it cold, oozing out of two slices of buttered and griddled toast or slathered onto the heart-stopping “burger” made with brisket. If those boys are wrong, I don’t want to be right. 1238 DeKalb Ave. 404-577-4030. www.foxbrosbbq.com.

Continue reading Mouthful.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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The original Superbier: Westmalle Tripel

The Belgian-style tripel ale makes a great springtime beer, savored on a breezy patio with your trusty laptop, or paired with fresh spring salads. Spring tends to make me feel a little bit drunk, so I have to be careful of the velvet hammer of the tripel’s strength, typically 8-10%, especially since they are so easy-drinking. The monks of Westmalle Abbey in Malle first to brew the tripel in 1934, dubbing it “Superbier.” The current name refers to the use of three times the malt of a standard abbey-style ale.

Tripels are characterized by a relatively light color, fruity flavors, and a flowery, spicy character being more prominent than hop bitterness. Candi sugar (dextrose) is typically used to increase the alcoholic strength while keeping the body light. Belgian yeast strains contribute to the style’s complex aromas and flavors. Fruity esters of orange, banana and pineapple are commonly present. White pepper and clove spiciness from the yeast is complemented by floral hop aromas. Here are three excellent examples of the style, all widely available, one each from Belgium, Canada, and the United States. (more…)

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LOOKING FOR A DONOR: Tierra's Dan Krinsky

I’m back to pizza this week, but first, I want to cite some important news in Atlanta’s culinary community. Dan Krinksy, co-chef and owner of Tierra with his wife, Ticha, is in need of a kidney donor.

Krinsky was diagnosed with polycistic kidney disease, a genetic disorder, about six years ago. He has been seeking a donor for two years and although he’s had seven offers, none of them turned out to be a match. He is now undergoing dialysis three times a week.

His blood type is O, the most common, so the competition for a donor kidney, including a cadaver organ, is intense. He prefers a living donor because, he says, cadaver kidneys are not as reliable over the long term. Recent research has concluded that donating a kidney does not affect health or life expectancy.

All donor costs will be paid by Krinksy’s insurance company. Recovery from the laparoscopic surgery is usually about two weeks.

Continue reading “Grazing: Tierra’s Dan Krinsky needs a kidney”

(Photo by James Camp)

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I just received this e-mail from Chris Lopez, one of the Bureau’s owners:

The Bureau is open and running. We took a few days off to reorganize a few things. Our relationship with Shaun Doty was short term. All I have for Shaun is admiration.

People have really embraced us as a pub and we are doing our best to meet their expectations. The kitchen will be open sometime next week.

We are so humbled by the response of people in the city and very happy to be a part of the Edgewood community!

Also, congratulations to Cindy Shera at The Shed for making it to one year! I am very proud of her!

Great news. The Bureau is a beautiful space. Check it out now.

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Wow. Someone at the AJC had an attack of intelligence and reversed the decision to kick John Kessler completely off his food beat. John reports on his Facebook page:

Pardon me while I readjust my whiplash collar. Okay, that’s better. So, on Tuesday I was informed that my new assignment at the AJC was to be a profiles writer for the Sunday paper. I was also told that because of the needs of the new newsroom I would have to “cut the cord” with my former life as a food writer. I was conflicted — happy with a new position that would give me the time to research good stories and space in which to write them, but a little freaked to so suddenly become divorced from a subject I had devoted much of my life to, much longer than my journalism career. But I knew that staying at the paper meant doing what was asked of me, and I am up for the fight.

Yesterday, I was told that — contrary to previous notice — my Sunday “Restaurant Stories” column would not be dying. So, henceforth, I’ll be writing a weekly food column and (more or less) biweekly personality profiles, all of which will be in the Sunday paper. I am pretty excited to be part of a core team of really fine writers and editors, slightly scared that my first profiles of non-food types will totally suck, and ready to do what it takes to keep this paper a part of people’s lives in Atlanta. I landed well here.

To read more, click the link above.

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That’s right a brand new and improved Movies & TV page! We combined all the best parts of our other sections into a comprehensive one-stop-shop for all things Movies & TV. There’s a blog feed with all of the latest Movies & TV content from Culture Surfing (”Lost,” “24,” etc.), a search engine for movie showtimes, recent reviews, links to interesting stories around the web, Film Clips, movie trailers, and a whole section dedicated to those Hollywood Products that you love!

Check it out at clatl.com/movies_tv and leave any comments you have over on our A&E blog Culture Surfing.

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More chocolate:

COMING SOON…
The Original Chocolate Bar Castleberry
located at 253-A Trinity Ave, Atlanta, GA 30303

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As you probably know, Agnes and Muriel’s, the once very popular retro diner on Monroe Drive, moved not long ago to a building on Piedmont, across from Bones. It’s already for sale:

Agnes & Murial’s has just opened their brand new location in February 2009 at 3133 Piedmont Road, (Buckhead), Atlanta, Georgia 30305. Unbelievable hi traffic, hi density, very hi income location with super roadside visibility. Across the street from BONES and steps away from the intersection of Peachtree and Piedmont and near Lenox Mall…. Motherhood and personal reasons force sale of brand restaurant. Priced at $95,000.00 with Owner Financing. Name is not included in purchase but could be licensed or bought separately.

Check out the Shumacher Group’s website for pictures of the place. They ain’t purty.

I also notice that Harry Bissett’s, where I had one of the worst meals ever, has closed. Its location is for rent.

I’m sorry to see that Chocolate Pink, the pastry cafe next to Cuerno and Beleza in Midtown, is also on the market. It comes with its own apartment.

Please, I beg you: Buy me my own Popeyes.

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Harold’s Chicken Shack, known around Chicago as “The Fried Chicken King,” is opening a large restaurant on Edgewood Avenue, next to Noni’s, where I dined this evening.

Harold’s has been around since 1950. This was the inspiration for its creation, according to the website: “Legend has it that when Harold Pierce was a child, the Pierce family had the local preacher over for dinner. When the preacher ate the last piece of chicken, Harold vowed never to be without fried chicken again.”

Whatever. I’m excited for one reason: gizzards. Harold’s serves fried chicken gizzards, one of my childhood favorites. …

I found the Bureau indeed closed tonight, but a neighborhood gossip told me that it will reopen soon, with yet another menu.

It seems that the building’s landlord has offered to renegotiate the lease. The new menu, according to my source, will likely be pretty straightforward, no-frills bar food. Its original menu was quite gastro-pubby. Then Shaun Doty was hired to create a more conventional but slightly kinky menu. But the Bureau’s crowd apparently wants even simpler food.

I have not confirmed the reopening or new menu with the owners, but my source is reliable. …

I also noticed today that another Italian spot, Nonna Mia Cafe and Pizzeria, will be opening at 980 Piedmont Ave., near 10th Street. The location has not been kind to a long list of tenants. (It was most recently occupied by Sweet Devil Moon.) But the most successful seems to have been the original — Big Red Tomato — so maybe another Italian venue will work there. …

The mother-daughter Chinese Southern Belles will conduct an Asian market tour this Saturday, April 19. Check out their website for details. …

As you’ll read in my next Grazing column, I got obsessed with pizza after dining at Varasano’s two weeks ago. I counted today and I’ve had 11 dinners of pizza since then. …

We had a great dinner at Noni’s, starting with a special — a take on bruschetta that featured plump slices of portobello mushrooms in a wine sauce.

Quote of the week is the greeting I received while walking to my car, parked in front of Noni’s: “Hey, honky man, lemme have a dollar.”

(Photo courtesy of blogs.citypages.com/food/food/the_culinary_un/)

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