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Review: Varasano’s Pizzeria

May 11th, 2009 by Besha Rodell in Restaurants, review
Margherita pizza at Varasano's

THE BIG CHEESE: Margherita pizza at Varasano

At the beginning of the year, I was on the coast of New South Wales, Australia, in a sleepy beach community. When my sister’s birthday rolled around, we asked our neighbors where we should go to celebrate. They pointed us to a pizza place in a small town about 20 minutes inland. We drove out into the rural rolling hills until we came upon a tiny town called Mullumbimby. In the center of that town was a tiny pizzeria with sidewalk seating and a wood-burning oven.

We ordered a pizza for each of us. A ridiculous amount of food as it turned out, but when the pizzas arrived my mood changed from pleasant vacation stupor to delight. And then quickly to fury.

These pizzas were perfect. Thin, crispy, bubbly crust, fantastic flavor, sauce tangy but not too watery or thick, toppings super fresh, bold, balanced. “Why?” I sputtered to my amused family. “WHY? Why, if they can do it in the middle of nowhere in rural New South Wales, why can’t we have pizza like this in Atlanta?”

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(Photo by James Camp)

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3 Responses to “Review: Varasano’s Pizzeria”

  1. SPEAKEASY Says:

    you know, maybe it’s because i’m from the south, but i really could not care any less about New York Pizza. I get it, that a small number of people care. the majority of us don’t. jeff verasano is on minute number 16 as we speak. the review’s in – may we now let mr. rubick’s cube fall back into obsurity!

  2. Top Chef Says:

    speakeasy those are some harsh words.

    I do not understand why he is not making the pizzas? I want to know the guys name that is putting the dough into the oven.

    You over charred my pizza last time. Tasted like a#$.

    No offense to Varasano because he is too pretty in his suit to be making the pizzas.

  3. Ehtrevor Says:

    Went last night for the all-you-can eat, but they moved it to Monday after 10. Figured I’d eat anyway, and ended up waiting almost an hour. I wasn’t expecting much, considering the wide-range of reviews. I’m also a fan of Fellini’s, and I knew this was a different breed of pizza.

    I gotta say, the pizza was spot on. Perfect crispy crust, excellent toppings, and served fresh-out-of-the-oven hot.

    The salumi had salty cured meats and minced black olives. Wish there was more sauce to balance the meats, but it was otherwise delicious. The Margherita had perfect ration of crust-cheeze-sauce.

    There was a blip in the service, but they more than made up for it.

    I’m a fan, and I’ll be back.

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