Bacon Jam: ‘Top Chef’ Las Vegas, Episode Four
September 10th, 2009 by Emily Hansen in Food media
HE PUT HIS HEART INTO IT: Pura Vida's Hector is the first Atlantan to go home
Nothing’s better than bacon jam.
In last night’s episode of “Top Chef” Las Vegas, hometown hero Kevin Gillespie became cheftestant royalty as he sat down for dinner alongside a panel of crazy famous French chefs, including the chef of the century “unicorn” Joel Robuchon. Kevin’s take on snails paired with southern inspired bacon jam (“I think you could put bacon jam on anything and you’re golden”) won him the affection of guest judge Daniel Boulud and, in a very cool twist, the opportunity to clean up, don a suit (production actually bought him a new one), and eat rather than cook during the elimination challenge.
Bacon didn’t work as well for Frenchman Mattin, whose embarassing bacon infused veloute landed him at the loser’s table. While it was too obvious Mattin would fail the challenge (just how much country-pride pressure can you put on one neckerchiefed man?), it was surprising that he didn’t take more heat, or responsibility, for his role in the dish. After lying at judge’s table about his level of input on Ashley’s ideas (he volunteered his disapproval of the asparagus, but didn’t cop up that he vetoed putting it in the sauce, a suggestion Tom had liked), Mattin showed that even in a challenge geared towards his strengths (“I think they make a challenge just for me”), he wasn’t much of a chef. At least Robuchon complimented his French.
The rest of the evening’s French sounded too americaine. Again, aside from the Voltaggio brothers and bitchy-face Jen (here I have to give Jen credit for her rather endearing nervousness about cooking the snails and her giddy girl smile about Michael V.) who turned out French classics with modern twists like the decomposed bearnaise and the reconstructed trout, the cheftestants’ French dishes were lackluster. Eli cooked cream sauce instead of a traditional sauce americaine and Robin and Ron’s clash in personalities (having one vs. not) created a mismatched dish with wilted greens and overcooked frog legs.
Sadly, though, it was Hector’s bloody, bloody chateaubriand that was deemed the worst offense, sending my gentle giant and season favorite to pack his knives. I agree with the judges that the meat was unacceptable, but I also think that Hector’s point of view was largely unappreciated. The judges may have got that he had balls, but they never really got his deep fried steak heart.
I for one am taking Hector up on his invite to Pura Vida. Tofu ceviche, anyone?
(Photo courtesy Bravo)
September 10th, 2009 at 1:43 pm
Personally, I think it is mean that you always point out Jen’s bitchiness. She certainly isn’t the pillar of sweetness but I don’t really see her as a bitch. Maybe she can’t help the faces she makes and perhaps she wouldn’t have gotten where she is by being mild and adorable. Every kitchen has its own story to tell, but some put the women through a lot of hazing and they have to stand up to it. And remember how on the first episode someone asked her if she was the pastry chef at her restaurant? That kind of shit gets old…
September 10th, 2009 at 2:51 pm
I get your point. I do give her credit as a chef and didn’t point out her attitude last week when she was executive chef for the military challenge, because I can see how that attitude could be necessary for her in the kitchen. Her attitude may indeed have helped get her so far, but I still have a hard time understanding it.
As for the pastry chef comment, I think that was Michael Isabella, and I certainly hope he’s not representative of the majority of male chefs.
September 10th, 2009 at 3:03 pm
She was snappy during the military challenge and I wondered if the whole kitchen was that tense or if she was taking the role too far. I decided I admired her for being focused on keeping everything smooth and organized when it was crucial to do so. Some people place more importance on how a job gets done than having a sparkling personality and I think I like that. For all purposes, male chefs definitely get the “oh tht’s how these tempermental chefs are” excuse while females generally get the “what a bitch” treatment. That’s the reason I point it out- for I have grown sensitive to it in conversation.
September 11th, 2009 at 9:12 am
Jen has been cast as “the bitch” this season. It’s the character she is there to play This says nothing about Jennifer the actual person or chef, it just acknowledges the TV conventions.
Also, Emily and/or editors: Could you please avoid putting spoilers in the RSS feed in the future?
September 11th, 2009 at 12:07 pm
I kind of enjoy Jen’s, erm, pizzaz. Possibly mostly because the editors have so much fun playing it up…. I love how every time she just-barely loses out on the top spot in any given competition, they cut to a shot of her pulling a crazy “bitch I’ll cut you” grimace.
And I agree with JR… I understand that it’s perhaps folly to read a foodblog the day after Top Chef airs without having seen the episode, but keeping big spoilers behind a jump would be very much appreciated.
September 11th, 2009 at 12:50 pm
I want to not like Jen, but I keep finding myself being drawn into really like her. For the military challenge, I truly think had she not played that role it would have been a huge disaster. She was super-organized which in that environment was half the battle. No one seemed to be complaining about her approach. Anyone with kids or a scattered spouse should steal her duct tape/marker system!
September 12th, 2009 at 1:38 am
I agree with the comments regarding Jen always being called the bitchy one. Would you call a man that knows what he wants, is skilled and is top notch, bitchy? I think not. So, enough with the stereotypes. I think she is awesome.
Now, the idea of a “dcomposed bearnaise” sort of puts me off. Are you sure you didn’t mean deconstructed?
September 12th, 2009 at 10:38 am
Decomposed! The next great trend in whiz-bang cooking! “Slightly fermented anglais.” “Seared sashimi-grade tuna over a putrid nicoise salad.” Love it.
September 12th, 2009 at 10:41 am
She’s not a bitch she’s a chef, Period. It’s funny how people call her a bitch because she’s a woman but I guarantee all the male chefs are the same way in their own kitchens.
September 14th, 2009 at 5:17 pm
This could be a flashbulb moment for a new restaurant concept. Just think of this menu.
Necrophiliac’s Nicoise: Decomposed tuna, black eggs, blood orange, haricot noir, finger-ling potatoes, butterhead lettuce.
Not to mention Mortuary Mortadella, Hangman’s hangar steak, Reaper’s rabbit rillette.
The possibilities are endless!