Second helpings: Piggy back ride
October 20th, 2009 by Richard Blais in Food media
It’s almost – no – it’s very cliché now, to exalt the properties of the pig. There are many restaurants that should simply be called pig bars. And chefs like Kevin have replaced dragons, skulls, and Japanese body art with charts of the animal’s anatomy.
But, why?
For the most part, of course, it’s flavor. The smokiness. The salt. But, mainly, it’s the fat. Where other animals’ fat can take on an unpleasant texture, especially cold, the pig yields melting lusciousness, almost all the time.
For that reason, it’s irreplaceable.
Emeril was right (even if I cringe while typing it). Pork fat rules!
Bacon however… is overrated.
This declaration has already landed me on a few blog’s hit lists, but I feel rather adamant about it.
First, I’m not crazy, and second, I love bacon. As a young cook, with not a lot of spending money, I would purchase shingled bacon and cook it in a pan to create a crispy yet also wiggly sandwich. Prepared with one of my other loves, mayonnaise (not overrated BTW), on white bread with a splash of vinegar. It’s a great quick sandwich.
And at my restaurant, we use Alan Benton’s craftsmanship almost exclusively.
Often, however bacon becomes a crutch.
It’s an ingredient that we can jump on and ride for its trendiness. It’s fatty, salty, and smokey. Slutty. Sporting great, sexy accessories for sure. Glossy lipstick, push up bra, leather panties. Great for one night, or one dish. Dirty if over worn. A pig in high heels. But a pig nonetheless.
And aesthetically I get it. The beautiful striation of a slice of bacon is indeed gallery worthy. Like a slice of a tree. Maybe maple? And maybe that observation is nature’s way of letting us know that smoked wood, and even syrup, might be good flavors to go with it.
Just like Kevin finding inspiration in the hazelnut trees that speckle the Sokol Blosser vineyards, being smart sometimes just means opening your eyes. And in capable hands, like his, bacon can be magical.
(Photo from Wikimedia commons)
October 20th, 2009 at 3:32 pm
I’m with you, Richard. While I certainly *like* bacon, I don’t love it. And I’ll apologize in advance for everyone who now thinks you’re the anti-”Christ”
October 20th, 2009 at 5:41 pm
who is this kevin you keep mentioning? please give some background info.
dont assume we just know him
October 20th, 2009 at 10:08 pm
Pretty sure Richard is referring to Kevin Gillespie, the Top Chef contestant from Atlanta’s Woodfire Grill who won last week’s challenge “Pigs & Pinot” with a pork terrine. He’s probably going to win the whole thing!
October 20th, 2009 at 11:02 pm
Dragons and kanji tattoos were never cool to begin with.
And like all things, it was only a matter of time before people start deriding bacon as “uncool.”
That’s the problem with foodies — always having to label things, to classify what exactly are the latest trends. When really, these things have been around forever – it is what it is – food was never really meant to be “cool”.
October 21st, 2009 at 9:40 am
Bacon is awesome. I love it now when everyone extols its’ virtues, I’ll love it if the “bacon is overrated” movement takes hold and I’ll still be loving it when it inevitably becomes hip again. However, I keep my love of bacon to myself and my stomach…and this webpage.
October 21st, 2009 at 12:03 pm
While I LOVE bacon I do agree that it becomes a crutch, especially in food competitions. I’d like to see automatic disqualifications for the use of bacon and lobster. “oooh it’s a risotto made with bacon AND lobster!”
October 22nd, 2009 at 4:11 pm
Bacon is NOT overrated. It’s perfectly ranked behind crispy pork belly and in front of buttery lobster. It may be over used in some restaurants and used often as a “crutch” but not overrated.
October 22nd, 2009 at 8:33 pm
I made bacon chocolate chip cookies last night, and I’m just gonna have to tell you to screw off.
October 23rd, 2009 at 9:02 am
Elitist mentality.. “The rest of the world caught on to bacon.. so we must find something else!” I hate this damn mentality. Bacon has been enjoyed for a looooooooooooooooooong time by many generations that predate this country. Get off your high horse and write a real article instead of this POS fluff.
October 24th, 2009 at 1:43 pm
Agree with the overrated notion of the bacon…
…but leather panties?? what kidna girls you hanging with man.
Keep it up Blais!
October 24th, 2009 at 5:34 pm
Leather panties… Um… Ew…
October 25th, 2009 at 9:40 am
Richard, I’m a breakfast girl. If trapped on a desert island with only breakfast foods to consume for all eternity, I’d be perfectly content, so as far as I’m concerned, bacon rules. On the other hand, I have a few family dishes I prepare, however, that the bacon fat is necessary to the flavoring of the dishes, but the presence of the actual bacon itself is less than desirable. Great blog. Thanks for continuing to share your culinary wisdom with the world.
October 28th, 2009 at 10:56 pm
I do not believe that bacon or pork is cliche at this point. It’s a great and humble food source and is so very versatile. Just because it isn’t cutting edge doesn’t mean that it isn’t good. Anything is a crutch to the lazy or untalented. The same can be said about chocolate, caramel, lobster, or balsamic reduction. But in trained hands those things are wonderful. I wouldn’t call any of them cliche’. They all have their place in the menu.