‘Top Chef’ Las Vegas, Episode Nine: Restaurant Wars’ Revolution
October 22nd, 2009 by Emily Hansen in Food mediaLet it ride. Or rather, slide.
Over the past few weeks Jen has cooked through illness and battled anxiety, but during last night’s famous restaurant wars, the lone female superstar actually floundered, serving not one, but two poorly executed pieces of fish. Her sloppy, broken brown butter sauce was uncharacteristic and brought out some pretty harsh words from head judge Tom Colicchio ( “It’s basically grease – her mentor would not be happy with her”). Even her slightly more inspired mussel “consummé” was not up to her usual standards, or Robin’s for that matter, and at the judge’s table she was a literal and figurative mess. At least she (or the editors) got to show off her bikini bod.
Jen’s whole team was off last night, with even steadfast Atlanta chef Kevin serving up undercooked “jello lamb” and Michael Isabella doing two basic dishes basically. In the end, though, it was Laurine who went home from team Mission for her failed front of the house skills (generally, I like the people I interact with to smile) and her lack of control over the dish she conceptualized. Her departure was no big surprise, especially after she got screen time for the first time in weeks at the start of the episode, but her team ending up at the bottom was a bit of a shock.
After winning the “ludicrous” quickfire, team Mission, stacked with powerhouses Jen and Kevin, seemed primed to win, but their more teamwork-inspired style (ie, their lack of a leader) couldn’t stand up to Michael Voltaggio’s creative control over team Revolt. While Michael was a little bossy (there was no real reason to start plating Robin’s dish for her), he ultimately did good by his team, making sure the food was well executed and setting up the courses in a way that made sense. His cod was well executed and creative, and his input into the two deserts (I could certainly go for that spearmint ice cream) made them worth risking on the short menu.
As much as I liked Michael Voltaggio’s dishes and Eli’s Clark Kent transformation (“I do my Clark Kent and put on my suit”), this year’s restaurant wars was not as nail-biting as previous seasons. Although perhaps more fair to the cheftestants, using guest judge Rick Moonen’s restaurant took away a big element to the challenge. The teams did not have to decorate, get serving ware, or even come up with a solid concept, instead cooking things that were remotely similar, but not really cohesive. The food from Revolt may have been the best food of any restaurant wars challenge, but Revolt itself was not a good concept or restaurant. The only revolt in last night’s episode was the change made to the challenge itself, which really ended up being about creating and expediting a dinner, not dealing with opening night at a restaurant.
And while some of the brother-brother fighting in last night’s episode was justified, Bryan, the generally level-headed Voltaggio, showed himself up a little when he refused to take his portion of Michael’s $10,000 prize. Bryan’s food helped Michael win and it seems a little stubborn to flat out refuse the offered $2,500. Come on, Bryan, be the bigger brother.









October 22nd, 2009 at 4:22 pm
Now maybe everyone will stop calling Isabella the ass of the group. It is clear that the brothers attitudes ( that have been there all season) are finally starting to fully show up on camera. Maybe now everyone will stop acting like they are on the same level of “good guy” that Kevin is.