Cheap Eats - All hail the king of the taco

El Rey del Taco on Buford Highway

A restaurant has got to be pretty confident to call itself “King of the Taco,” especially when its address is on Buford Highway. There must be a dozen other taquerias within shouting distance, all vying for that title. But taco junkies, listen up: El Rey del Taco has got the goods to back up the claim.

Entering Taco Territory: El Rey del Taco may be a little frayed at the edges, but by Buford Highway standards, it’s downright glamorous. Travel posters of Mexican beaches decorate sky-blue walls, with rustic star-shaped chandeliers creating a cheerful vibe. The crowd is an interesting mix of Latinos and gringos, all communing happily over platters of food and cans of cerveza. An extended Mexican family takes up a big table in the corner, with various aunts and cousins taking turns bouncing a fussy baby as the tired-looking young parents scarf tacos. Two middle-aged women (co-workers from the CDC, it would seem) blandly discuss communicable diseases as they munch chips and salsa. It’s a miracle that conversation is taking place at all, considering the four plasma-screen TVs playing a bodice-ripping telenovela at full volume. Don’t speak Spanish? It doesn’t matter — it’s likely you’ll be riveted all the same.

No Hablo Ingles: Not speaking Spanish may, however, become an issue when the menu arrives. The only concession to English speakers is an explanation of the types of meat that are available — everything from steak to suadero, (vaguely translated as “flat meat”). Don’t count on your high-school Spanish — or your server, for that matter — to be much help to you, either.

Wrap it Up: Even if you’re ordering blind, you can relax. There isn’t much on the menu that constitutes a “miss.” Tacos, both regular and mini, are deservedly the centerpiece. And at just $1.60 apiece (the mini-tacos are $1), a better deal would be hard to find. Fresh, handmade corn tortillas form the base for succulent meat topped with a handful of raw onion and cilantro. Spicy chorizo is a good bet, as is al pastor, a mix of beef and pork. Pork carnitas go neck-and-neck with goat barbacoa for tenderness and flavor. Keep it simple with a squeeze of lime juice, or slather on creamy guacamole or one of the incredible fresh salsas. One salsa is a spicy tomatillo pureed smooth, with the heat and distinctive grassy flavor of fresh jalapeños. The other, a red salsa made of arbol chilies, has a smoky essence and heat that’s intense and immediate.

Baja Fresh: Fish tacos go the milder route, with flaky fingers of white fish fried until golden and wrapped in warm flour tortillas. Citrusy shrimp ceviche flecked with bits of cilantro is marvelous on a crunchy corn tostada, the whole thing crowned with wedges of avocado. Tortas also make a good showing: A crusty roll is halved and filled with your meat of choice along with lettuce, tomato, avocado and a smear of mayo. They’re cheap, too — just $4.25 a pop. After gorging on chips and salsa, you’ll probably regret trying to finish the whole thing. Save half for lunch tomorrow — it keeps nicely in the fridge.

Despite the language barrier, El Rey del Taco is totally approachable. The vibe is amiable, the food arrives fast and the bill may shock you it’s so reasonable. And then there are the tacos. King of the Taco is one heck of a claim, but if I’ve ever seen a taco worthy of a royal pedigree, this is it.