Frank Bruni just put up his first blog post since yesterday’s announcement that he’s leaving the job as restaurant critic for the New York Times. In it, he describes the well funded and well respected status he’s enjoyed from his employers. Aw.
If you’ve missed it, the food world has gone totally rabid with the news of Bruni’s job change. Eat Me Daily has a good roundup of Eater’s excellent coverage of what they’re calling Bruniocalypse.
OK, that’s not quite true – there was a small segment at the beginning of last night’s show that was about the White House press conference cell phone debacle. But apart from that, it was a food-heavy episode last night, with outrage over the proposed soda tax, dining and dashing on $1000 meals, and an interview with Michael Pollan. My favorite part? Watching Colbert snort 24 carat edible gold. Just in case you missed it, here’s the episode.
After our coffee panel of a few weeks back, Jennifer Zyman and I were discussing what other blind-tasting fun we could have. Absinthe sounded like a blast, but the idea got put on the back burner for the time being. Doh! It seems the New York Times has beaten us to it – here they taste 20 absinthes, compare contrast and offer helpful hints on how to imbibe.
Eat Me Daily posts an awesome video which will both warm your heart and teach you how to make tabbouleh.
Ezekiel J. Emanuel writes on the Atlantic’s food site about how the internet age could be responsible for ruining eating – if every meal is blogged, do we lose the pleasure? This is kind of interesting, but is the same hand-wringing we’ve been seeing for years: does the internet make privacy obsolete? Did I ruin my relationship by blogging about it? And on and on….
THE BIG CHEESE: Margherita pizza at Varasano
At the beginning of the year, I was on the coast of New South Wales, Australia, in a sleepy beach community. When my sister’s birthday rolled around, we asked our neighbors where we should go to celebrate. They pointed us to a pizza place in a small town about 20 minutes inland. We drove out into the rural rolling hills until we came upon a tiny town called Mullumbimby. In the center of that town was a tiny pizzeria with sidewalk seating and a wood-burning oven.
We ordered a pizza for each of us. A ridiculous amount of food as it turned out, but when the pizzas arrived my mood changed from pleasant vacation stupor to delight. And then quickly to fury.
These pizzas were perfect. Thin, crispy, bubbly crust, fantastic flavor, sauce tangy but not too watery or thick, toppings super fresh, bold, balanced. “Why?” I sputtered to my amused family. “WHY? Why, if they can do it in the middle of nowhere in rural New South Wales, why can’t we have pizza like this in Atlanta?”
Continue reading “Review: Varasano’s Pizzeria”
(Photo by James Camp)
Last weekend I told you about Dirty South Wine’s quest to land a gig as in-house blogger for Murphy Goode Winery. Now you can watch Dirty’s application video and vote for him. Check it out – it’s part wine geek love, part performance art.
This just in from the PR folks:
On Friday, May 15, Restaurateur Joe McCarthy will open his new seasonally-inspired restaurant, called WaterHaven, within Midtown Atlanta’s Technology Square. Serving lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday, with lunch service beginning on May 18, WaterHaven offers a welcoming retreat from the hustle and bustle of Atlanta’s urban activity.
Executive Chef Chris Lee’s menu features contemporary American fare that highlights local farms and purveyors. Focusing on two to three components per dish, Lee lets his local ingredients shine for sustainable and Southern-inspired meals.
WaterHaven’s décor, created by Marc Moscript, features mustard and olive green hues and a warm, cozy ambience. The restaurant offers 150 seats indoors and an additional 80 on the patio, as well as a semi-private room that seats up to 65 people and features a transparent wine wall separating it from the main dining room. A large stone water feature is the focal point of WaterHaven’s bar area, which also contains a long zinc bar for guests to gather while sipping and snacking.
4th & Swift, A three-course brunch menu. $39. 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. 621 North Ave. 678-904-0160. www.4thandswift.com.
Atlanta Grill, Mother’s Day brunch. $29-$59. 11 a.m.-2 p.m. 181 Peachtree St. 404-221-6550. www.ritzcarlton.com.
Café di Sol, Brunch with a complimentary drink for mothers. 10 a.m.-4 p.m. 640 N. Highland Ave. 404-724-0711. www.cafedisol.com.
Cassis, Brunch, music and kids’ entertainment. $30-$60. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. 3300 Peachtree Road. 404-364-3933. www.grandatlanta.hyatt.com.
Craft Atlanta, A three-course menu. $65. 3376 Peachtree Road. 404-995-7580. www.craftatlanta.com.
Ecco, Mother’s Day brunch. 40 Seventh St. 404-347-9555. www.fifthgroup.com. (more…)
Our friend Hardy Wallace, AKA Dirty South Wine, is on a mission to get hired by Murphy-Goode Winery for what is basically a six-month party in wine country. If they’re looking for some snobby, boring blogger who will continue to alienate the masses with “ooohhh, wine is so fancy” wine-speak, then Hardy is probably not their guy. But if they’re looking for someone with a sense of humor and some genuinely interesting things to say, as well as an inventive spirit for how to present wine to the public, then they have found their dude. My understanding is that the winery is looking to see how much excitement hopeful bloggers can drum up ahead of time, so help support Hardy by checking out his new blog dedicated to the project at www.goodetobefirst.com, and follow him on Twitter: @goodetobefirst. Go Hardy!!
This post just went up on the New York Times Diner’s Journal blog about the ethics of food blogging. In it, Kim Severson asks “Should a food blogger follow the same ethics as a traditional food journalist?”
I have so much to say on this topic I should probably muzzle myself to keep from making this an all-out rant. I will say that it must be difficult for non-professionals to navigate what’s ethical and what’s not when many traditional food journalists push the ethical boundaries (media dinners, freebies etc.). But disclosure is key, and I applaud any effort to give guidance on that front.
Heard from Jennifer Zyman that Noon, the highly anticipated (at least amongst rabid foodies) gourmet sandwich shop finally opened today. She will be covering it in an upcoming Cheap Eats column.
I heard a rumor last week that Top Flr had a new chef, but when I called the boys over there were being very tight lipped. “Call back in four days,” they told me. Today I called back and managed to get a name: Landon Thompson. But they wouldn’t say anything else, other than that he’s local. Couldn’t find anything on him, but heard another rumor that Thompson is quite young.
No word on Mike Schorn, who has lead the kitchen up till this point. More to come as we get it. …
I got a text this afternoon from Jennifer Zyman that a new sandwich place had opened behind Octane called Tiny Bistro (1039 Marietta St. 404-745-9561). So I went to check it out. It’s owned by the folks who run Figs & Honey catering, and serves sandwiches, sides and to-go entrees. Jen (who also passes on the helpful tip that Octane has 15% off coupons for Tiny Bistro) will bring us more info in an upcoming Cheap Eats column.
In recent weeks we have had an increasing problem with people pretending to be other well-known posters, bloggers and personalities. It has to stop. I’m asking nicely.
When you post a comment on Omnivore, I can look from the back end and see your IP address. So, if someone is posting as multiple people (and believe it or not, it appears that one poster is posting as multiple people and arguing with him-or-her SELF), I can tell. The only solution, if this does not stop, is to disallow the offending posters. I’d hate to do that. But really, it’s only one or two people. So, if I have to, I will. Honestly I just have better things to do than police this dumb crap.
Post as yourself. Or make up a new screen name every time. Just don’t pretend to be someone you’re not. Please.
Thanks in advance for what I’m sure will be a mature decision.
GREAT BALLS OF RICE: The arancini at Cakes & Ale
Reviewing restaurants is a tricky game. We want to be fair, to give credit where it’s due, and to be respectful of the heart and hard work someone has put into a business. For that reason, we have guidelines — at CL we never do a full starred review before a restaurant has been open one month. A month isn’t a lot of time, and I often feel as though it’s not enough. A restaurant can take a few months to become what it’s destined to be.
So why not wait those few months to review? Because to be a part of the conversation, we need to weigh in early. By the time three months have gone by, people are talking about something new.
When I review, I rate based on what the restaurant is at the time, not based on what I expect the restaurant to become. This can be frustrating, for me and, I’m sure, for the chefs and owners of the restaurants. Often I can see the potential, but I have no way to say for sure whether that potential will be met.
For that reason I’ve decided to revisit some restaurants I felt had more potential than they achieved in those first few months. I wanted a chance to update star ratings and to give credit to businesses that are constantly evolving, and in these cases, becoming better.
Continue reading “Feature: Come again”
(Photo by James Camp)
DOH! The secret beans revealed
My first food industry job was as a barista. I grew up cooking and enjoying eating, but that job, at a coffeehouse in suburban New York, was the start of my culinary obsession. In the weeks before the coffeehouse opened, my boss and trainer had me pull thousands of shots of espresso and steam hundreds of pitchers of milk. Everyone fixated on the flavor, mouthfeel and balance of each drink. This ritual, of aiming for perfection over and over, delighted my detail- and pleasure-loving nature. I didn’t know it at the time, but that job was the true beginning of my career.
America’s enthusiasm for coffee runs on parallel tracks with its growing foodie culture. Coffee is, for many, the gateway drug — the first step toward heightened standards when it comes to matters of taste. Good coffee, or at least better coffee, was available to the masses long before many cities had decent gourmet markets.
In the last five to 10 years, coffee’s made huge leaps in quality thanks mainly to roasters and baristas. A competitive barista culture has emerged in Atlanta out of the Westside coffee shop Octane, where baristas face-off during its Thursday Night Smackdowns. This weekend Atlanta hosts the World Barista Championship, where 49 baristas representing their countries will compete. While latte art and sugary drinks still make up a portion of such events, more emphasis is being placed on extracting perfect espresso, and the complex flavor profiles of different origins and roasts.
At Octane and at Decatur’s new coffee shop Method, you’ll find baristas so passionate, hearing them discuss coffee is like listening to a star sommelier.
We also have roasters and growers to thank for the coffee revolution. There are now a number of local roasters in Atlanta, as well as access to a selection of highly specialized national brands. Roasters are becoming active players in everything from educating the public to advocating for the farmers whose coffee they buy. Counter Culture, a relatively new company to enter the Atlanta market, is making huge changes to the lives of farmers they buy from in South and Central America, says Octane’s owner, Tony Riffel. “They are getting these farmers to taste their own coffee, for the first time ever,” Riffel says. “That’s huge.”
So what makes good coffee good? And what’s available in Atlanta? In an effort to guide folks, Atlanta photographer and coffee aficionado Joel Silverman offered to host a CL blind coffee tasting panel. Silverman set the whole thing up, buying the beans, making the espresso, and establishing parameters for the tasting. I invited Riffel, Greg Best, mixologist at Holeman & Finch (who, in my opinion, has one of the best palates in the city), and Jennifer Zyman, CL Cheap Eats writer and food blogger extraordinaire to take part.
Continue reading “A guide to Atlanta coffee”
(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)
This from Riccardo Ullio’s Facebook page:
On Monday, April 6, a 6.3 magnitude earthquake devastated the Abruzzo region of Italy. At least 260 people lost their lives and more than 28,000 people have been left homeless by the disaster.
Please join us in the effort to raise funds for the people affected by the earthquake. On Tuesday, April 21st U Restaurants will host the Dine Out for Earthquake Relief.
All profits from dinner at Sotto Sotto, Fritti, Cuerno and Beleza will go to provide relief for the victims through the International Red Cross.
In order to raise additional funds, U Restaurants will hold a raffle featuring an array of great prizes, worth over $4500, from U Restaurants and other local retailers. Raffle tickets can be purchased at all U Restaurants.
I just got an e-mail about a restaurant called Johnny Cakes opening at 323 Walker Street. I so hope this is a gay, mafia-themed diner.
This just in from the FDA:
Dekalb Farmers Market announced today that it is voluntarily recalling ROASTED SALTED PISTACHIO WHOLE KERNELS, sold from their retail store located in GA. The pistachios may be part of the recall by Setton Pistachio of Terra Bella, Inc. due to contamination with the Salmonella organism.
Both Cliff and I have given in and are Twittering. You can find us at @CliffBostock and @BeshaRodell respectively.
TASTY SENSATION: "Slice fish and sour cabbage soup" at Tasty China
When Atlanta foodies first discovered Tasty China in 2006, the food developed mythic status in a matter of weeks. This was no fluke, no matter of hype or bandwagon-jumping — chef Peter Chang’s food was revelatory. Then, just as quickly as he appeared, Chang left town. Owner Yang Da He and powerhouse hostess Phuong remained, but since Chang’s departure, Tasty China’s food has gone through some major changes.
Many of the dishes Chang made so well — hot and numbing beef rolls, sharp pepper fish, wontons in hot oil — were still being served but lacked the finesse and balance he gave them. Over time, chefs came and went, some of them better than others. In the two years since I originally reviewed the restaurant, I’ve had great meals at Tasty China and some severely disappointing ones.
Just over a year ago, two new chefs took over the kitchen. It’s taken them some time to hit their stride, but these days chef Liu and chef Wong are cooking in a way that revives Tasty China’s reputation as Atlanta’s best Chinese restaurant. Their style differs from Chang’s, yet they do some of Chang’s signature dishes justice. But where Chang’s food was often a study in flavors ramped up to mind-blowing, nuclear levels, the new dishes deal more in balance.
Continue reading “Review: Tasty China”
(Photo by James Camp)
Pete Wells writes about telling your kids where meat comes from in the New York Times. It’s an interesting subject, and one I’ve tackled in my own family with some of the same results Wells describes. Ever since my kid was old enough to understand, I’ve let him know that the meat he eats was once a living animal — I want him to understand the moral repercussions of what he consumes, be it food-related or otherwise. At this point, his response is “I don’t want the lamb to have to die. But it’s so gooood.” I hear ya, kid.
Michael Ruhlman writes incredibly well (as usual) about being a food writer. My favorite line (something I try, usually unsuccessfully, every semester to impart to my interns):
Perhaps the best general advice I got about writing was to always ask myself, “Why should a stranger be interested in what I have to say?” I think you should always be asking yourself this, whether you’re querying a magazine editor or blogging (though the blog is a new and unusual beast).
It’s been reported all week on other Atlanta blogs, but in case you missed it, here’s the link to Food & Wine magazine’s Best New Chef article featuring our own Linton Hopkins. I do wonder what the magazine’s definition of “new” is, but I’m so happy Linton’s getting some much deserved recognition.
This just in from Concentrics:
Atlanta, GA (March 31, 2009) – Concentrics Restaurants’ Bob Amick and Todd Rushing are proud to announce that New Orleans’ native Nick Melvin has assumed the lead of Executive Chef of PARISH: Foods & Goods. With a passion for food and all things pure and local, nationally acclaimed Chef Nick Melvin will create New Orleans-inspired dishes with modern influences at the Inman Park neighborhood restaurant and market.
“Nick possesses the ideal qualifications that I’m certain will make for a standout chef at PARISH – he is New Orleans born and bred with an exceptional passion for farm to table fare and was a part of the Concentrics family for quite a while,” said Concentrics Restaurants founder Bob Amick. “While at Serenbe, he utilized the local, sustainable and farm-to-table philosophies that PARISH embraces, and he brings the flavors of his hometown back to Atlanta. We are excited to have him back as a part of the Concentrics team.”
The Chicago Tribune has a photo gallery up about how Peeps are made. Take a look, and then visit this blog dedicated to Peep murder. Ahh, the glorious circle of life.
(Photo courtesy of pdphoto.org)
I'D TAP THAT: The bar at Leon's Full Service
It’s a rare but beautiful thing when a restaurant inhabits its surroundings so thoroughly that it immediately feels like an intrinsic part of a city’s landscape. Leon’s Full Service, located in Rue de Leon’s old location on the corner of Ponce de Leon Avenue and Church Street, has managed to become such a natural part of Decatur already, it’s hard to believe the restaurant is only eight weeks old.
The reason may be the owners’ intimate familiarity with the hopes, desires, and beer enthusiasms of Decaturites. They’ve spent the last 12 years running the legendary Brick Store Pub around the corner. But it’s more than Leon’s pitch-perfect reading of what a young, booze-friendly customer base requires. The space is brazenly appealing, evoking a slightly nautical feel with its white wooden booths, blue walls and red accents. Just enough of the building’s vintage character has been left in place to communicate its aesthetic, and just enough has been done to modernize the space to make it feel clean and vibrant. It’s Decatur all over. Don’t you just hate Decatur sometimes for being so … awesome?
There are certain qualities of Brick Store the owners have imported to Leon’s. The commitment to outstanding beverages includes a manageable but thrilling beer selection, and extends into wine and cocktails. (Try the Belgian champale cocktail for something truly weird and delicious.) The enthusiastic service here mirrors the passions of Brick Store’s brew-loving barkeeps. It’s not uncommon for a server to take a seat at the table to fervently discuss a certain beer, cheese or dish. It sometimes makes for slow service at other tables, but is wholly worth it for the attention when you do get your turn.
Continue reading “Review: Leon’s Full Service”
(Photo by James Camp)
Catharine Price writes about what to do with winter vegetables on Slate. This article may be a help to many people, but I have to say – really? Has the woman heard the term “soup”? And she doesn’t know what to do with parsley? I do love Mark Bittman’s response to her parsley dilemma, although his declaration that kiwis aren’t that good is horrifying. Makes me think he hasn’t had fresh ones off a vine – tiny, sweet/tart home-grown kiwis are perhaps the best thing in the entire universe. So there.
Derek Brown writes a history of the American mixologist on the Atlantic’s food site.
The New York Times gets in on the Varasano’s conniption of pizza joy.
