Omnivore Atlanta

The Twitterers are tweeting that Stella in Grant Park will close at the end of December and be replaced by Doc Chey’s Noodle House. I’m not happy about that.

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The New York Times blog “You’re the Boss,” is running a two-part list of “One Hundred Things Restaurant Staffers Should Never Do.” It ought to be posted in every restaurant in the city. It anticipates complaints:

Herewith is a modest list of dos and don’ts for servers at the seafood restaurant I am building. Veteran waiters, moonlighting actresses, libertarians and baristas will no doubt protest some or most of what follows. They will claim it homogenizes them or stifles their true nature. And yet, if 100 different actors play Hamlet, hitting all the same marks, reciting all the same lines, cannot each one bring something unique to that role?

Among my favorites from the first 50:

3. Never refuse to seat three guests because a fourth has not yet arrived.

6. Do not lead the witness with, “Bottled water or just tap?” Both are fine. Remain neutral.

36. Never reek from perfume or cigarettes. People want to smell the food and beverage.

40. Never say, “Good choice,” implying that other choices are bad.

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LUPE TAQUERIA: The trio of guacamole

This is a cautionary tale about first impressions and foodies. The protagonist is Riccardo Ullio’s new Lupe Taqueria (905 Juniper St., 678-904-4584). The antagonist is the foodie community, including its bloggers and critics like me.

I long ago learned that a first impression of a new restaurant – the usual subject of this column – is not reliable if the visit turns out to feature extremes.  In such a case, particularly when the extreme is negative, I usually go back, hoping for better. Contrary to popular opinion, most critics don’t enjoy thoroughly panning a restaurant, which is typically a huge investment and provides a livelihood for its staff.

On the other hand, I think the effect any one critic has on a restaurant is short-lived. Of course, if the critic does pan a restaurant that ends up failing, he gets the blame. Typically, though, the restaurateur has not heeded any of the criticism directed his way.

Continue Reading “First Look: Lupe Taqueria”

(Photo by James Camp)

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We dined Thursday evening at Amuse (404-888-1890), the new restaurant in the short-lived Allegro’s space at 560 Dutch Valley Road in Midtown. The owners have improved the interior significantly, turning what was a rather chilly space into a warm, intimate bistro, replete with an instrumental jazz duo. We’d expect nothing less of the owners of Anis (Arnaud Michel) and Apres Diem (Andy Alibaksh) who have teamed up to create Amuse.

The menu by longtime Anis chef Lenny Robinson includes a number of novelties like the appetizer of sliced, charred octopus with pickled seaweed and cucumbers (above). My entree was a chunk of roasted, orange-glazed piglet (right) with shredded, pickled brussel sprouts and a paprika brodo.

Both dishes were terrific, although I thought the pickle flavors tended to overwhelm the octopus, which was sliced from a grilled tentacle. Wayne ordered an interesting appetizer of roasted cauliflower with a cauliflower puree. A bit of chili oil added zing to both forms of my favorite cruciferous vegetable. His entree was crispy mackerel over chickpeas with mint and sultanas.

Dessert: a butterscotch creme brulee with a roasted marshmallow topping for me and two scoops of housemade ice cream for Wayne — one lavender and the other violet.

The restaurant is also open for lunch weekdays and brunch on weekends. Did I mention that portions are huge? Some of the appetizers I saw go by our table looked like entrees, especially one of crispy pork belly over napa cabbage, plum, avocado and yuzu.

I’ll have more to say in an upcoming Grazing column.

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)

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Paul Luna, our city’s first celebrity chef (before there was “Top Chef” and such), was spotted at Atmosphere last night. I have not confirmed that he’s moving back, although AtlantaLatino.com reports that “he is looking to make Atlanta a new home and to teach cooking classes and English.”

Luna has, amazingly, crossed the U.S. on bike to promote his children’s book, Luna Needs a Miracle, an English-Spanish text about bridging cultural difference. He’s recorded his impressions of how Atlanta has changed since his departure on one of his blogs.

Let’s hope the brilliant chef decides to cook in restaurants now and then!

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It matters, according to new research:

Whether your companions are overweight or skinny and how much they put on their plates can greatly influence how much you eat. New research shows if we eat with skinny people, we tend to mimic their food portions, regardless of how much they take. However, if we eat with overweight companions, we generally try to adjust our portions to be different.

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I stopped at MetroFresh at Midtown Promenade after the gym Monday night, thinking I’d eat something low-calorie. Then I encountered this dish — strips of grilled flank steak over blue-cheese risotto with red-pepper coulis. Sold! Cost, including a cup of Thai coconut-chicken-rice soup, was only $12.95.

This reminds me of the recent study, widely reported, that concluded that if a restaurant advertises healthy food but also offers heavier dishes, people will often choose the latter while congratulating themselves for dining in a health-conscious restaurant.

MetroFresh posts its menu daily and I noticed that tonight’s entrees (Tuesday) include chicken and dumplings. I have to eat elsewhere this evening; otherwise I’d be there.

(Photo by Cliff Bostock)

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The newest location of Pure Taqueria — 300 North Highland Ave. — will open Oct. 31. Inman Park residents will be treated to an open house this Thursday night. The new taqueria is in the old Grape location, across from Sotto Sotto and Fritti. …

Check out photographer Mark Petko’s blog Spoonfed Atlanta to see some beautiful shots of dishes at Serpas True Food. Other restaurants he’s featured recently include Top Flr and 4th and Swift. …

In case you missed it, Tom Maicon of Atlanta Cuisine published a great interview with Jeff Varasano, owner of the controversial Varasano’s Pizzeria. Among his comments which have caused further controversy:

The biggest unexpected challenge was the fact that guests eat their pizza with a knife and fork. Coming from NY it’s just a reflex to pick up a slice and fold it. I really want everyone to try pizza at it’s best and a huge part of any food experience is the way it feels in your mouth. A great piece of fresh fried chicken has a nice crunch on the outside that gives way to a juicy interior. Similarly, folding a fresh slice allows you to bite the crust which gives way to the juicy sauce.

This style of pizza has a light crust that is too delicate to retain any crunch after it’s been cut with a knife or if it’s sat too long. We got a lot of early criticism about the texture of the crust and we spent the first two months altering the dough formula to compensate. This was probably our biggest mistake. I know of no pizza with this kind of thin, charred, light airy style that holds up to a knife and fork….

The Cabbagetown Chomp and Stomp is the weekend of Nov. 7. The annual event’s highlight is a chili cookoff. This year’s judges are Shaun Doty, Kevin Gillespie, Linton Hopkins, Kevin Rathbun, Joe Truex and Scott Serpas. …

The Anis and Carpe Diem folks have opened their new restaurant, Amuse, in the old Allegro space on Dutch Valley Road in Midtown. It’s been open a week now. …

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Andrew Smith, the (amazingly prolific) author of Eating History, will be speaking 7:30-9:30 p.m. Mon., Nov. 16, at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts (1927 Lakeside Pkw., Tucker):

Food historian Andrew F. Smith will recount—in delicious detail—some of the major moments that made contemporary American cuisine, as described in his brand new book, Eating History: Turning Points in the Making of American Cuisine, from Columbia University Press. The style of American cooking, along with the ingredients that compose it, has never been fixed. With a cast of characters including bold inventors, savvy restaurateurs, ruthless advertisers, mad scientists, adventurous entrepreneurs, celebrity chefs, and relentless health nuts, Smith pins down the truly crackerjack history behind the way America eats.

The event is co-sponsored by the Culinary Historians of Atlanta, which maintains a Facebook page (e-mail deborah.duchon@gmail.com). There is also a separate Facebook page for this event.

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This is pretty groovy. Illy is marketing cups designed by one of my favorite film directors:

This signed and numbered, limited edition illy Art Collection cup set was designed by Academy Award-winning filmmaker Pedro Almodóvar for illy caffè. Almodóvar’s six-cup series – each entry paired with an equally vivid saucer — takes inspiration from six of the famed Spanish director’s most admired films; Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown (1988), Tie Me Up! Tie Me Down! (1990), High Heels (1991), The Flower of My Secret (1995), Bad Education (2004) and Volver (2006). The individually decorated cups depict his signature themes of love, women — including his favorite lead actress Penélope Cruz — desire, passion and family.

They’re kind of retro-garish and expensive, but if you’ve got money to burn, go ahead and buy a full set.

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We checked out the new Lupe Taqueria (905 Juniper St., 678-904-4584) over the weekend. The new restaurant by Riccardo Ullio is located in the space formerly occupied by Cuerno, his attempt at a Spanish restaurant (something that never seems to succeed in Atlanta).

The new restaurant, named after the Virgin of Guadalupe, features a very straightforward menu of tacos and classics like the chile relleno above and the flan at right. The chile relleno departs from the usual around town by featuring a filling of queso cincho — an aged, firm cheese that does not melt into the creamy texture of chihuahua cheese.

Although it’s completely usual to do so, I prefer my chiles served over the traditional red sauce, not under it, as the chef is doing here. That can easily turn the fried flour-and-egg coating soggy.

I have one major complaint about the restaurant. It calls itself a “taqueria,” but you are only allowed to order  plates of three-of-a-kind tacos with the usual rice and refried beans — no mix-and-match. So, even if you’re tempted to order a $9 plate of tacos as a starter, they all have to be of a single kind.

I’ll have more to say in Grazing later this week.

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)

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LUNCH WITH FRIENDS: Bocado's dining room

Bocado (887 Howell Mill Road, 404-815-1399) is the latest restaurant to open on the city’s Westside. Its location — across from Octane, at the corner of Howell Mill Road and Marietta Street — is the first evidence of the way the restaurant typifies a significant shift in the city’s restaurant community. The Westside is booming — at least compared to more expensive real estate in the city. Lower rent and smaller spaces are essential to most restaurants’ survival in this economy.

And that’s also produced a shift in restaurant appearance. Bocado’s design is by ai3, the people whose first project was the (defunct) Globe, my favorite interior in recent years. They’ve also designed 4th & Swift, Holeman & Finch and the particularly wonderful Flip.

Rather than the theatrical, large spaces that typify the Johnson Studio designs (Aria, Two Urban Licks), for example, ai3’s are spare in utilization of uncluttered open space, but the firm also employs natural (and recycled) materials that conversely add an intimate glow, especially after sunset. Communal tables also seem to be part of ai3’s play with space.

Continue Reading “First Look: Bocado”

(Photo by James Camp)

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La Pietra Cucina is my favorite restaurant, and my default when I’m in the mood for fine dining. Bruce Logue’s thoughtfully conceived “progressive Italian cooking” makes the restaurant chef-driven — what I find most appealing — but with a distinctive edge.

Favorite Dishes: Mainly, I lunch here and the dish that most often draws my attention is the crispy fish with caponata and salsa passato. (But I never ignore the specials…or the porchetta salad.) 1545 Peachtree St. 404-888-8709. www.lapietracucina.com.

See the rest of Cliff’s Top 10 Favorites and don’t miss our Food Issue 2009, out today.

(Photo by James Camp)

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Dynamic Dish is a restaurant where I would happily eat daily. Unfortunately, it’s also a restaurant that is booked most evenings, so lunch is usually the most convenient option. David Sweeney’s brilliant, mainly organic, mainly vegetarian cuisine has gained national kudos.

Favorite Dishes: Anything Sweeny does with collards instantly attracts me, but Saturday night’s organic pizzas are amazingly playful, healthy riffs on everyone’s favorite unhealthy food. 427 Edgewood Ave. 404-688-4344. www.dynamicdish.net.

We will be counting down Cliff’s Top 10 Favorites every day between now and Oct. 21, the day our Food Issue 2009 launches. Check back tomorrow for Number 1.

(Photo by James Camp)

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Repast is featuring a “Piedmont Truffle Wine Dinner” this Wednesday night. The five-course dinner costs $125 with paired wines. Space is limited, so call 404-870-8707 now to make a reservation. Chef Joe Truex’s menu looks spectacular:

First course:
Foie gras with truffles
2006 Mascarello Dolcetto d’alba

Second course
Black truffle agnolotti
2005 Fantino Barbera d’alba

Third course
Braised rabbit with cipollini onions, black olives & truffles
2005 Forteto della Luja Le Grive

Fourth course
Short smoked filet mignon with
creamed celery risotto & black truffles
2000 Rocche dei Manzoni Vigna d’la roul Barolo

Fifth course
Frozen lemon chiffon
2003 Forteto della Luja Moscato Passito

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The Big Gay Supper Club meets tomorrow night, Tuesday, at One Midtown Kitchen. Cocktails will be served at 7 p.m. and a four-course dinner will follow at 8 p.m. Cost is $35 (not including cocktails or tips).

This is a great way to sample the restaurant’s menu, since the family-style service allows tastes of many dishes. Check it out.

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This is from Lisa Hanson at Cabbagetown Market:

Perla Lopez and Carola Pava, of Lupita Coffee, are now open at Cabbagetown Market:

Lupita Coffee

Mondays through Fridays

6-10 a.m.

198 Carroll Street

Atlanta, GA 30312

404-254-1456

Fair trade, organic coffees

Cafe con leche

Pan de queso (gluten free)

Arepas

Fruit cups

Call ahead and they’ll bring your order out to your car.  Not quite a drive-through, but almost.

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Antico Pizza Napoletana is now open for lunch and has installed seating at its large communal table. Jennifer Zyman has the restaurant’s announcement on her Blissful Glutton blog.

As it happens, Wayne and I visited the pizzeria again Saturday night and took a seat at the table with five Georgia Tech students who were in obvious awe as we plowed our way through two pizzas, leaving only four slices to take home. Wayne ordered the marinara with white anchovies and I got the pie with sopressata and fiery pepperonata.

The pies, I’m sorry to say, were so soft and floppy they were almost impossible to eat without a fork and knife. Pizzaiolo Enrico Liberato said the sudden cold and rainy weather had played havoc with his dough. Interestingly, the leftover slices actually re-heated quite well on a cookie sheet in a 300-degree oven.

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Top Flr is the default choice when I’m able to dine out Monday night. The restaurant’s special of three courses for $15 is a bargain nobody in town can beat.

Favorite Dishes: Among the best on the regular menu of uncomplicated eats are the tarragon-spiked pan-roasted chicken and the crispy duck with fennel salt and vermouth honey. 674 Myrtle St. 404-685-3110. www.topflr.com.

We will be counting down Cliff’s Top 10 Favorites every day between now and Oct. 21, the day our Food Issue 2009 launches. Check back tomorrow for Number 2.

(Photo by James Camp)

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Cakes and Ale crosses my mind whenever I head to Decatur. I don’t get to dine here as often as I’d like, but to me it’s everything a restaurant should be: chef-driven to the point of eccentric, highlighting seasonal ingredients and giving foremost attention to flavor.

Favorite Dishes: The gnocchi is always reliable – a great dish for showing off those seasonal ingredients. 254 W Ponce de Leon Ave. 404-377-7994. www.cakesandalerestaurant.com.

We will be counting down Cliff’s Top 10 Favorites every day between now and Oct. 21, the day our Food Issue 2009 launches. Check back tomorrow for Number 3.

(Photo by James Camp)

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Cóm is my favorite Vietnamese restaurant. While there are a couple of fancier spots in town, Cóm is inexpensive, informal and mainly quite healthy. Don’t go without trying the house salad, made with green mango, green papaya, Fuji apples, fried onions, roasted peanuts, mint, basil and cilantro. You add the grilled seafood, meat or tofu of your choice.

Favorite dish: My default entrée is usually a bun (rice vermicelli) bowl with la lot leaves stuffed with lamb. 4005-E Buford Hwy. 404-320-0405. www.comgrill.com.

We will be counting down Cliff’s Top 10 Favorites every day between now and Oct. 21, the day our Food Issue 2009 launches. Check back tomorrow for Number 4.

(Photo by James Camp)

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This week has been what Wayne and I call a “Freedom from Food Week.” That means we didn’t have to eat anything for first-time review. The reason is that I wrote the list of my 10 favorite restaurants instead of Grazing for next week’s paper. That put me a week ahead.

By the way, some people don’t seem to distinguish between the “best” and a “favorite” restaurant. A favorite restaurant is one that I go to regularly because the food is consistently good, it’s fairly inexpensive and it’s relatively convenient to where I live.  I would, for example, consider Restaurant Eugene among the best restaurants in the city but it’s not a favorite for regular dining week in and week out.

I’ve had several terrific meals this week at favorites. Above is the gigantic pickle we brought home from the Shed at Glenwood Wednesday night after our usual indulgence of $3 sliders. Wayne asked for an extra slice of pickle and the waiter brought him this dinner-plate-sized monster. It seems owner Cindy Shera bought an entire barrel of them, thinking she was buying the usual size.

We had two excellent newbie sliders — fried oysters and coleslaw, and pork belly with pork and beans.

I lunched Friday with my friend Frank Miller at La Pietra Cucina, where I haven’t been in nearly a month. Our meal was flat-out spectacular, starting with a large bowl of soup featuring octopus and chickpeas with a bit of escarole and delectable Olivastro oil. That was followed by lemony tagliatelle with chunks of Dungeness crab, which was followed by porchetta paninos. No, I did not take a nap in the car after lunch, but I sure felt like it.

Last night, Thursday, I scored a seat at the bar at the always-crowded Dynamic Dish for an amazing-as-usual meal: creamy, slightly crispy aubergine croquettes over San Marzano tomato sauce with steamed kale and crowder peas. I followed that with owner-chef David Sweeney’s interesting take on bread pudding — more like toast pudding — topped with whiskey sauce and toasted walnuts.

Last Monday, I visited the new Antico Pizza for another Naples-style pie, this time the San Gennaro topped with sweet sausage, bufala, cippolini and sweet pickled red peppers. Like the week before, I carried the pizza home in a box and it was way too gooey by the time I arrived, but nonetheless a really stimulating play of sweet flavors. I wish the restaurant included seating — there is one table where you can stand and eat — because the pizza is really not suited for travel. It’s not on my list of favorites yet, but it’s only been open a few weeks and I’ve been twice!

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)

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The Shed at Glenwood is where I land every Wednesday night. That’s when Chef Lance Gummere prepares an ever-changing menu of fat, delicious sliders that cost all of $3 each. The regular menu includes the delicious novelty of pan-fried chicken hearts and a foie gras torchon with warm fig jam. Go Sunday and you get three courses for $20.

Favorite dishes: Recent favorite sliders have been wild boar with caramelized onions, and one showcasing a thick slice of fried green tomato with goat cheese.   475 Bill Kennedy Way. 404-835-4363 www.theshedatglenwood.com.

We will be counting down Cliff’s Top 10 Favorites every day between now and Oct. 21, the day our Food Issue 2009 launches. Check back tomorrow for Number 5.

(Photo by James Camp)

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Spoon has blown all other Thai restaurants in Atlanta out of the water. Although its menu is a bit limited compared to others, the curry sauces have no equal for their complexity and fiery heat (unless you specify “mild”). I go to the East Atlanta location, but the original is in the Westside.

Favorite dishes: The Massaman curry, to which I add mixed seafood or chicken. The tofu steak is my favorite special. 749 Moreland Ave., 404-624-4713. 768 Marietta Street., 404-522-5655. www.spoonatlanta.com.

We will be counting down Cliff’s Top 10 Favorites every day between now and Oct. 21, the day our Food Issue 2009 launches. Check back tomorrow for Number 6.

(Photo by James Camp)

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Come and get yo soul food, well well
Good old-fashioned soul food, all right
Everythang is for free
As good as it can be
Come and get some soul food

This Atlanta-based group invented the phrase “Dirty South,” which a certain popular blogger has adopted.

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