Omnivore Atlanta

The much delayed 5 Seasons Westside brewpub is finally on track for an opening early next year, according to a statement by the company. The sprawling, 17,000-square-foot restaurant and brewery in the Brickworks at Midtown West will be the largest brewpup in the Southeast, covering three floors, with three separate bars, private event facilities, and indoor and outdoor seating for 400. David Larkworthy will serve as Executive Chef at the Westside location. Larkworthy has won praise for his fresh, simple preparations from local ingredients at the other two locations of 5 Seasons, and will continue the tradition of the farm-to-table concept developed at those restaurants.

Crawford Moran, brewmaster at 5 Seasons North in Alpharetta, will take over the kettles at the new location, where he will have considerably more room to work. “Since we are building the space ourselves we were able to dedicate a huge amount of space to the brewing part of the equation - over twice the size of an average brewpub,” Moran says. “That will allow us to serve a huge variety of beers, barrel age beers on a regular basis, cellar age our high gravity beers and offer cask ale on a full-time basis. We are going to do some unique things and explore all the different possibilities that beer can offer.”

Jose Tavel of TaC Studios is designing the space with an emphasis on sustainable materials and enviromentally friendly design, while creating a warm, hand-crafted environment that includes a walnut bar, rough-hewn timber beams, and artesian-created light fixtures. The concern for the environment will extend from the waterless urinals to the recycled kitchen oil that will fuel the brewing operations, as well as the Mercedes fire truck that will serve as the restaurant’s catering truck.

The 5 Seasons Westside will be located at the intersection of Howell Mill Rd. and Marietta St. The building itself is a redevelopment of an existing 100-year-old brick structure and former industrial hub that is being transformed into a mixed-use retail center.

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Thomas Hooker Octoberfest

Thomas Hooker Brewing Company

Bloomfield, CT

6.1% ABV

This American version of an Oktoberfest pours a dark copper-brown with a foamy, 2-finger head and plenty of nice lacing. The aroma is of caramel and brown bread crust, wet leaves, and some herbal, earthy hops. Toffee dominates the initial taste, along with some toasted, husky bran, and baked cookie. Grassy hops and some allspice balance the sweetness. The mouthfeel is full and smooth, with a semi-dry finish. This is a bit rich and lacking in crispness for an Oktoberfest, but the texture and flavor are superb for a lager. Very satisfying.

(photo courtesy Thomas Hooker Brewing Company)

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Full Sail IPA

Full Sail Brewing Company
Hood River, OR
6.0% ABV

Full Sail beers are ubiquitous in the Pacific Northwest, but are just showing up in Georgia. The labels seemed to be redesigned from the way I remember them, touting that the brewery is “independent” and “employee-owned.” I don’t know if this has anything to do with recent mergers in the world of industrial lagers, but as long as it’s true, I have no problem with it.

Superb clarity, a nice, persistent cap of off-white head, and some sticky lacing give the Full Sail IPA an inviting appearance. The aroma has a sweet, floral essence with a hint of pine and lemon tea. The taste echoes the nose, with some fruity, pale malt to back up the soapy, leafy hop flavors. There’s bit of aspirin astringency in the finish, but the lively carbonation and bright character give it an easy drinkability. A well-balanced IPA and a good stepping stone for those looking for more flavor in their beer.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Join Terrapin Beer Company at their new brewery in Athens Sat., Aug. 23 from 5-9 p.m. as they kick off the new school year with a sneak preview of their latest year-round offering: SunRay Wheat, brewed with honey from Savannah Bee Company. They may have the latest Side Project on tap, too, the Gamma Ray Wheat Wine. There will be music outside from Blue Flashing Light, Picture Me Free, and Bain Maddox & Shot from Guns; inside, Wesley Cook and Spencer Frye will perform acoustically. Terrapin President John Cochran’s father, Jimmy, will provide the barbeque. The $10 cover benefits Tumornators Children’s Tumor Foundation. For more information, contact the brewery at (706) 549-3377.

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Hugh Malone Ale
Allagash Brewing Company
Portland, ME
8.5% ABV

This Belgian-style IPA from Allagash is named for the Irish immigrant who pioneered hopping techniques in the early twentieth century in Portland. Allagash contributes $1 from the sales of its tribute series to charitable causes, in this case the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association, the country’s oldest and largest state organic farmer coalition. The Hugh Malone pours a glowing, deep orange with a dense, persistent head. Allagash adds Simcoe hops at three points in the brewing process, including the “first wort hopping” developed by the beer’s namesake. The result is a solid citrus oil bitterness from beginning to end, with some piney and herbal notes as well. But this is no hop bomb. Crystal malts contribute to a medium body and subtle caramel sweetness, and Belgian yeast adds a tanginess mid palate. Drying alcohol and a lingering hop bite characterize the dry finish. Heed the recommended serving temperature of 45-50o F, as the character really shines as the beer warms. Allagash’s Rob Tod has balanced beautifully the bready goodness of a Belgian strong pale ale with the crispness of an American IPA. Nicely done!

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Stoudt’s Pils
Stoudt’s Brewing Company
Adamstown, PA
4.7% ABV

A classic German pilsener made by a German family from Pennsylvania, Stoudt’s Pils is as close to Bohemia as you can get in the United States. It pours clear and golden, with a steady stream of bubbles forming a neat cap of clingy head. Spicy, floral Saaz hops greet the nose along with some bready malts. The taste is grainy and delicately sweet, backed with a solid hop bitterness and a dry, grassy, hay-like finish. The frothy mouthfeel is light but not thin. As good a pilsner as you will find, in or out of Germany, and perfect for backyard barbeques and ballgames.
(photo by Jeff Holland)

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“Alt” means “old” in German, and this beer is brewed in the old style of an ale, before lagers became the standard in Germany. Like lagers, however, alt biers are cold-conditioned for extended periods to produce a clean, crisp taste. Pinkus’ organic version of an alt is golden in color and rather lighter in body that others of the same style. There’s a hint of apple tartness in the flavor, along with light, grainy malts and citrusy, grassy hops. The peppery spice and tang of yeast suggest a saison, the rustic French-Belgian farmhouse ales made not too far from the Dusseldorf region where alts are most popular. This refreshing ale would make a fine alternative to a wheat beer on a hot summer evening.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Albino Python Lager
Shmaltz Brewing Company
Saratoga Springs, NY
6.0% ABV

Appropriate for the freak show theme, this beer is modeled after a Belgian witbier, but brewed with lager yeast rather than the traditional Belgian ale yeast. The characteristic coriander and orange peel are added, along with some more unusual spices like ginger and fennel. The result is a sweet, mildly spicy brew, with a slick mouthfeel and a clean, refreshing finish. The unfiltered yeast in the bottle contributes to its cloudy, pale-yellow color and almost blue-gray tint. The lively carbonation yields a perfectly big frothy head when poured into a weizen glass. There’s a hint of honey in the pale malt sweetness, along with a bit of citrus twang. The spices meld nicely, with nothing overwhelming the palate. Still, I wouldn’t mind seeing the spices cranked up a notch. The fennel, ginger, and a lemongrass character suggest a pairing with Asian food. The body is pleasantly light but not watery. Overall, a satisfying experiment and definitely ahead of most American pale wheat ales.

(photo courtesy Shmaltz Brewing Co.)

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Double Simcoe
Weyerbacher Brewing Company
Easton, PA
9.0% ABV

Simcoe hops are capable of providing a strong hop aroma and flavor without imparting an astringent bitterness, and this new arrival to Georgia shows it to brilliant effect. I don’t want to give the impression that Double Simcoe is not bitter, however. It is, but in a good way. Huge grapefruit and pine flavors hit first in the taste, but gradually the deep whiskey-like malts and floral honey sweetness assert themselves, resulting in a flavor that is balanced in the way that two linebackers on a teeter totter would be balanced—big on both sides of fulcrum. The hop oils coat the tongue and, along with the warming alcohol, have a slight numbing effect that is soothing but not dulling. The big flavors and boozy aroma encourage a slow, savoring pace. Despite its full body and creamy, sticky mouthfeel, the finish is dry and woody, with a lingering hop bitterness on the sides of the tongue. A true treat for hopheads and an excellent example of what the best American brewers are producing.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Sam Adams Summer Ale
Boston Beer Company
Boston, MA
5.2% ABV

Sam Adam Summer Ale is brewed with lemon and grains of paradise, a “mysterious” spice used in Renaissance brewing. This American-style wheat beer pours a glowing orange-gold with a fluffy head of off-white foam. The mild lemon and yeast in the nose suggest a mellow brew, with only a hint of spice. The taste is tangy and refreshing, smooth and soft on the palate. The wheat lightens the body and adds a faint graininess. With almost no hop bitterness and just a hint of salt, lemon and herbal grassiness, this is a delicate beer that stays out of the way, making it a perfect beer to have with lunch at the beach or after mowing the lawn.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Fire Rock Pale Ale
Kona Brewing Company
Kona, HI (brewed in Portland, OR)
5.8% ABV

Kona’s American pale ale has a lighter body than is suggested by its glowing, copper orange color. The faint aroma of sweet malts and floral, citric hops suggests a British IPA more than an American pale ale. Smooth, sweet malts are up front in the taste, with some appropriate tropical fruit notes and a modest backing of orange citrus. Hop bitterness is mild, but sufficient to leave a satisfyingly crisp finish with a bit of lingering fruitiness. A light to medium body, a pleasantly bright carbonation, and a clean character make it easy drinking and refreshing. Fire Rock would be a perfect accompaniment to summer food like a Caprese sandwich on crusty bread, bean salad, or fruit and cheese.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Highland Shining Rock Lager
Highland Brewing Company
Asheville, NC
6.0% ABV

It’s a little late for this spring seasonal from Highland, but it just seems to be popping up in liquor store coolers. This chestnut-colored bock has an aroma of rich, earthy malt and spice. There’s a load of sweet caramel and toffee flavor up front from the toasted, bready malts. Hop bitterness is low, but distinct woody, spicy and herbal notes add a measure of balance. The finish is a bit doughy and heavy, but there is a smoky, nutty, cinnamon character that gives this beer a complexity that would marry well with traditional German fare like spiced meats, cheeses and pickled vegetables.

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Heavy Seas Small Craft Warning Uber Pils

Clipper City Brewing Company
Baltimore, MD
7.0% ABV

Imperial or strong pilsners are arguably a dubious style, more often than not failing to exhibit the dry, crisp character that defines a pilsner. Clipper City’s Small Craft Warning, part of its Heavy Seas series of high-gravity offerings, hedges its bets a bit by calling itself a pilsner-style bock, which as it turns out is a fairly apt description. Maltier than a traditional pilsner, but with the unmistakable aroma of Saaz hops and a satisfyingly dry finish, this is a very refreshing beer for strong lager. A pleasant spicy, citrus hop aroma greets the nose, but the pilsner and caramel malts assert themselves at the first sip. Hop bitterness is low, but there is a spiciness and a bit of alcohol drying in the finish that keep it balanced. Medium bodied and smooth, the mouthfeel is more akin to a bock than a pilsner, and it could benefit from a bit more carbonation to lighten the body, but overall an interesting addition to a style that is still being refined.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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Firth of Forth Ale
Harpoon 100 Barrel Series #22
Harpoon Brewery
Boston, MA
5.4% ABV

This limited edition Scottish ale was guest brewed by Steve Stewart, who interned at Harpoon in 1998 before returning to his native Scotland and eventually starting his own brewery. Harpoon has released a new beer in this series, so you can find No. 22 on sale at Green’s for a very reasonable price.

It pours a deep chestnut brown with an aroma of sweet caramel malts and some floral hops. The flavor profile emphasizes the bready, caramel malts, along with toffee, maple and weak coffee. A peat-like smokiness and lingering nuttiness add layers of complexity. There’s a whisper of plum/fig fruitiness, but overall the taste is musty rather than fruity. Moderate grassy, earthy hops are just enough to counter the malt. Velvety smooth, substantial without being syrupy, flavorful without being showy, the Firth of Forth Ale is a very pleasant and drinkable Scottish ale. I can imagine tossing back a few of these from a flagon in a dank Scottish castle.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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As I noted in Talking Head , the Brick Store will be celebrating its 11th anniversary beginning Saturday June 14th by tapping at least one limited edition keg each day. There have been some changes to the schedule and a few new details, which are given below. The special kegs will be tapped at 3pm daily and Chef Eric Ottensmeyer will be pairing daily food specials to accompany each beer. I am so there:

Saturday June 14th - J.W. Lees Lagavulin Wooden Pin Cask (2001)
- Regenboog t’Smisje Guido

Sunday June 15th - Harviestoun Ginger lime
- Regenboog t’Smisje Catherine the Great

Monday June 16th - Highland Brewing (Summit Dry Hopped) Kashmir IPA

Tuesday June 17th - Terrapin Southern Fried Brown Ale
(Oak aged brown ale w/muscadine grapes)

Wednesday June 18th - Great Divide Oak Aged Yeti w/ Espresso

Thursday June 19th - Oskar Blues Chubbourbon (old chubb aged in bourbon barrels)
- Allagash Rosa (tripel aged in oak w/brettanomyces wild yeast)

Friday June 20th - Victory Wild Devil (Hopdevil W/ brettanomyces)
- Strubbe Double Tripel

Saturday June 21st- Harviestoun Ola Dubh 30 yr
- Alvinne Balthazar

Sunday June 22nd - Avery Uber Svine (dbl. dry hopped Hog Heaven)
- Regenboog t’Smisje Kerst

Monday June 23rd - Sweetwater Brewing Firkin (details to follow)

Tuesday June 24th - North Coast Barrel Aged Old Stock
- Allagash Rosa (tripel aged in oak w/ brettanomyces)

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Brooklyn East India Pale Ale
Brooklyn Brewery
Brooklyn, NY
6.8% ABV

Billed as an English-style IPA, Brooklyn’s offering is more of an homage than a replica of the style to which American brewers have taken such a shine. The 6.8 percent ABV pushes the range of English versions of the style, and the use of Willamette, Centennial, and Amarillo hops from the United States gives it a stronger citric presence than is typical in English examples. Still, Kent Golding and Northdown hops from England are utilized as well, imparting a delicate floral aroma and clean hop taste. East Anglia pale malts add a solid underpinning of classic biscuity malt flavor (in the English sense of a dry cookie more than fluffy, yeasty bread). The medium body and lively carbonation give it a pleasant mouthfeel, and the balance of fruitiness from the malt and moderate hop bitterness in the finish is truly refreshing. A good choice to keep in the fridge this summer for grilling and entertaining.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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Denver Pale Ale
Great Divide Brewing Company
Denver, CO
5.6% ABV

This English-style pale ale is an alternative to the hoppier American versions like Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Nice floral, grassy hop aroma and flavor balanced with a mild toasted malt backbone and a biscuity tang. Hop bitterness is medium and carries through into the crisp, dry finish. The active carbonation contributes to excellent head retention, and the medium body is perfect for quaffing. A satisfying beer to accompany a summer barbeque or tailgate party.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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The East Atlanta Beer Festival blog has a couple of posts about beers you are likely to see this year. The list is unofficial, but since it is similar to last year’s, it is probably not far off the mark.

Two new entrants into the Atlanta market that will be represented are Magic Hat and Kona Brewing. Both are independently owned, but have distribution deals with Anheuser-Busch. Look for a story on these two newcomers, along with some tasting notes in next week’s Talking Head column.

My short list includes Innis & Gunn, Jolly Pumpkin Biere de Mars, Atlantic Brewing’s MacFoochie’s Scottish Ale, the Whiskey-Aged Gonzo Imperial Porter from Flying Dog, Left Hand’s Twin Sisters Double IPA, and whatever Unibroue brings to the party.

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Oskar Blues Gordon

Oskar Blues Grill and Brewery
Lyons, CO
8.7% ABV

Cans are the new bottle in craft brewing. They are easy to transport, cool faster, block out damaging UV rays, and can be taken where glass is verboten. And with improved linings, the metallic taste is no longer a problem. Perfect for the cooler poolside this summer. The label on the can promises “Big, Red, Sticky,” and the beer inside delivers. The can opens without the satisfying “pfft” of typical fizzy, yellow lagers, but a straight pour delivers plenty of clingy, clumpy foam. A deep whiff transports you to a wet Colorado fir forest. There is a hint of brown sugar sweetness, but the hops dominate. The taste is full of piney hop goodness, mixing nicely with some caramel and sugary spice-cake malts and a hint of fle