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Mouthful: Fried chicken

Saturday, August 1st, 2009

CARVER’S COUNTRY KITCHEN & GROCERY: The facade of Robert and Sharon Carver’s Southern meat-and-two dive is deceivingly spartan. But the inside is cluttered with an eclectic mix of clippings and knick-knacks. Carver’s fried chicken has plenty of crunch and juicy meat. You can either get an order of leg and thigh or a breast so big the Carvers actually call it the “Dolly Parton.” Any of the sides (you get two vegetables and bread with your order) satisfy, but starchy items are the best on the menu — especially the hush puppies and mac-and-cheese creamy with Velveeta. 1118 W. Marietta St. 404-794-4410. www.carverscountrykitchen.com.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Cheap Eats: Il Mulino’s lunch buffet

Tuesday, July 28th, 2009

How did we go from two-martini business lunches to harried fast-food excursions, sandwiches and nuked leftovers while toiling at our desks? Some would argue it’s a budgetary concern. But you deserve the occasional pause, even if it is on the cheap. And there happens to be just the place smack dab in the middle of downtown Atlanta. It offers not only a major deal at $10.95 per person, but also a civilized sit-down meal on an enclosed “terrace” set inside the bustling grand lobby of Peachtree Tower.

You may have heard about Il Mulino (191 Peachtree St., 404-524-5777, www.ilmulino.com/visit_us2.html), the extremely overpriced Italian restaurant from New York, when it opened. The original location in New York is spectacular, but I’ve found that the offshoots — such as the Miami location — just don’t live up to the coziness or immense personality of the smaller Manhattan home base. My curiosity about the Atlanta location was quashed by my reluctance to drop a stack of bills on something I knew didn’t travel well. And I really need a good excuse to switch out my flats for a pair of heels. But rumors of a shockingly cheap lunch buffet enticed me — no torturous footwear required.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Mouthful: Margaritas

Saturday, July 25th, 2009

Agave: Is it any wonder that a restaurant named for the plant from which tequila is made serves excellent margaritas? Agave’s bar stocks an impressive list of obscure tequila brands you can enjoy in your margarita for an upcharge. The restaurant also offers a short menu of house-designed margaritas. Your best bets are the Agave Don Eduardo Anejo — Don Eduardo Anejo, Triple Sec, fresh lime and sour mix on the rocks — or the Corzo Perfecto, a mix of Corzo Super Premium Reposado, fresh lime juice and agave nectar (a syrup resembling honey in texture). 242 Boulevard. 404-588-0006. www.agaverestaurant.com.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Cheap Eats: Myung Ga Won

Tuesday, July 21st, 2009
The marinated short ribs at Myung Ga Won

MARINATE ON THIS: The marinated short ribs at Myung Ga Won

It’s some ungodly hour and you need food. Unfortunately, Atlanta’s intown late-night dining options are limited unless you want greasy eggs and something of the scattered variety. You do have options if you deign to drive to Duluth, however. Yes, Duluth, where there is an infinite variety of cuisines, new restaurants opening every day, and plenty of spots that cater to night owls. What more can you ask for? One of my newest finds, Myung Ga Won (1960 Day Drive, Suite 100, Duluth, 770-622-1300, www.mk1usa.com), serves exceptional Korean cuisine and is open 24 hours a day.

Tucked away in a small strip mall just off I-85, Myung Ga Won’s colorful — and slightly retro — façade looks more like a bowling alley than a dining establishment. And the last thing you’d expect is the contemporary décor touches like the lightboxes that pepper the dining room and the retro-modern revival wooden panels in various shades of orange and brown. This has to be one of the most upscale Korean restaurants in Atlanta.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Mouthful: Gazpacho

Saturday, July 18th, 2009

SOCIAL: There are places in Atlanta that don’t get nearly as much business as they should. And this quaint and chic Mediterranean café/wine bar is a prime example. Brothers Jalil and Rheda Chikhaoui serve up a menu similar to any you’d find at a restaurant of its ilk in France. During the summer, the restaurant offers an authentic gazpacho as a special. This version is chock-full of the typical ingredients—fresh tomatoes, cucumber, and bell peppers—but they add their own twist with a dash of cumin, harissa and a “special” tomato juice for a smoother mouthfeel. The soup is topped with lump crabmeat and a tiny dice of cucumber for contrast. 12 W. Peachtree Place. 404-525-2246. www.socialintown.com.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Cheap Eats: Cafe Mims

Tuesday, July 7th, 2009

The gourmet sandwich concept is nothing new, but Atlanta has seen an explosion of such establishments in the past year. Are gourmet sandwich shops this year’s cupcake or fancy hamburger? Trend or not, there’s a need for this type of dining — especially in areas saturated with office workers — and it’s easy enough to conceptualize the menus. Just throw on a few sandwiches, a salad or two, some fancy chips and pricey beverages.

Cafe Mims (659 Peachtree St., 404-897-5000, www.livingstonatlanta.com) is the latest spot to capitalize on the need for speedy lunchtime fare. The food, overseen by Livingston’s executive chef Gary Mennie, is made fresh daily and pre-packaged so you can grab and go. The cafe opens early so you can pop in for some coffee and one of the homemade baked goods, such as the trio of mini bear claws filled with blueberries, cheese and almond paste. Sandwiches are the best thing the cafe has to offer at lunchtime. Each sandwich — with the exception of the grilled cheese — is made with a personal-sized baguette and wrapped in brown paper affixed with a branded sticker. The crusty bread has just the right amount of chew. And the fillings have been uniformly excellent.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Mouthful: Pies

Saturday, July 4th, 2009

ALPINE BAKERY: Alpine’s pies resemble those you find at any worthy New York (or Jersey) diner and the varieties are endless. Like everything in the shop, the pies — available in virtually any style you can imagine — are made on site daily and rise just as high as the cakes. Each pie except the apple is offered in both small (serves 6-8) and large (serves 16-20).  The chocolate cream pie is especially delectable. 295 Rucker Road, Suite 140, Alpharetta. 770-410-9883. www.alpinebakery.net.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Free sushi followed by a sake tasting tonight at MF Buckhead

Thursday, June 25th, 2009

From the PR folks:

RAW: “The Untold Sake Stories” at MF Buckhead on Thursday, June 25th, 2009. Complimentary sushi appetizers from 8 to 9 p.m. followed by a sake tasting and presentation by world famous sake sommelier, Toshi Kojima. Beats by DJ Heather B and Japanese video montage by Bean Summer. RSVP to: raw@mfbuckhead.com.

Cheap Eats: KoKai Thai Bistro

Tuesday, June 23rd, 2009

Well before the sushi craze, Atlantans were mad for Thai food. But our interest seemed to wane as Buford Highway grew to include an abundance of options from other countries. Sickly sweet options and a handful of fancier Thai eateries stuck around, but places serving authentically prepared dishes were harder to find. In recent years, however, Thai food has been slowly creeping back into our bellies, and restaurateurs are focusing on more authentic preparations. KoKai Thai Bistro (5495 Jimmy Carter Blvd., Norcross, 770-409-9219, www.kokaithaibistro.com) is one such restaurant that specializes in bringing “the streets of Bangkok to you.”

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Mouthful: Corn dogs

Monday, June 22nd, 2009

CYPRESS STREET PINT & PLATE: This hidden Midtown drinking spot not only has one of Atlanta’s best patios, complete with a fire pit, but also serves up loads of “fancy” bar food standards. Among its arsenal of booze-friendly dishes, the restaurant serves sinfully tasty mini corn-dogs. The all-beef franks are hand-dipped in a homemade batter and fried to a hushpuppy-like crisp. One order gets you six that are skewered with frilly toothpicks and served with a whole-grain mustard sauce and smoky chipotle ketchup. Hit Cypress between 5-7 p.m. during the workweek and get them for half-off. 817 W. Peachtree St., Suite E-125 (corner of Sixth and Cypress Streets). 404-815-9243. www.cypressstreetpintandplate.com.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Cheap Eats: Wan Lai

Tuesday, May 5th, 2009
The pork belly casserole at Wan Lai

GET IN MY BELLY: The pork belly casserole at Wan Lai

My friend Kit Fenton is an admitted snob when it comes to Cantonese food, which he grew up eating in Hong Kong. So, my interest was piqued when I got an exclamation-point-riddled text about his new find, Wan Lai (4897 Buford Highway, Chamblee, 678-530-0633). Kit called the food “real Cantonese” and said it was “some of the best” he’d had in Atlanta. I naturally accepted his invitation when he told me he was organizing a large group for a family-style lunch — is there a better kind of meal?

The lunch was on a Sunday when every table restaurant was packed. I like to think I’m a seasoned eater, but the massive menu left me in a frantic state of indecision. What had I never had before? What “litmus dishes” should I have? “Why don’t you just order for everyone, Kit?” I found myself saying. He looked shocked that I’d actually relinquished control over ordering then rattled off our order to the waiter in a mix of his native tongue and English.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Mouthful: Chili cheese fries

Monday, May 4th, 2009

FOX BROS. BAR-B-Q: Just like the “Tominator,” the “Lopez” is named after its creator: in this case, Steve Lopez, Widespread Panic’s tour manager. Lopez used to have the Fox brothers make him a “Krystal casserole,” Krystal burgers covered in chunky and slightly spicy Texas-style brisket chili, crunchy golden tater tots and melted cheddar and jack cheeses. The restaurant introduced the concoction — minus the burgers — as a special and it has been a regular menu item ever since. 1238 DeKalb Ave. 404-577-4030. www.foxbrosbbq.com.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

‘I Am A Craft Brewer’

Wednesday, April 29th, 2009

Check out this great video showcasing America’s craft brewers.

I Am A Craft Brewer from I Am A Craft Brewer on Vimeo.

About the video (via Vimeo):

“I Am A Craft Brewer” is a collaborative video representing the camaraderie, character and integrity of the American Craft Brewing movement. Created by Greg Koch, CEO of the Stone Brewing Co. and Chris & Jared of Redtail Media…and more than 35 amazing craft brewers from all over the country. The video was shown to a packed audience of 1700 craft brewers and industry members at the 2009 Craft Brewers Conference as an introduction to Greg’s Keynote Speech entitled “Be Remarkable: Collaboration Ethics Camaraderie Passion.” As is tradition for the CBC Keynote, a toast to the audience was offered. This time, the beers offered for the toast were all collaboratively brewed craft beers including Isabella Proximus, Collaboration Not Litigation, AleSmith/Mikkeller/Stone Belgian Style Triple, Jolly Pumpkin/Nøgne-Ø/Stone Special Holiday Ale, and 2009 Symposium Ale “Audacity of Hops.”

Now open: Adios Cafe

Monday, April 27th, 2009

We Castleberry Hill residents have been on a lucky food and drink streak lately. Johnny Cakes, the soon-to-open Chocolate Bar and now, the No Mas! Hacienda & Cantina folks have opened Adios Cafe, a chocolate and espresso bar. The cafe serves a wide variety of homemade Mexican treats such as Panecillo (corn muffins), freshly made churros, Mexican truffles infused with tamarindo and savory empanadas filled with chorizo, eggs, black beans, peppers and cheese. Choose from a long list of Mexican coffee and chocolate drinks (e.g. coffee laced with cinnamon and cocoa, hot chocolate with chili de arbol and the like), Mighty Leaf teas and chilled bottles of Jarritos sodas to enjoy alongside the pastries and desserts. The Cafe opens at 7 a.m. and closes at 10 p.m. daily. There is plenty of parking and ample seating in the vividly adorned cafe attached to the equally vibrant restaurant and furniture store. They even offer free WiFi. Stay tuned for more in an upcoming Cheap Eats

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Mouthful: Meatballs

Saturday, April 25th, 2009

MAGGIANO’S LITTLE ITALY: Going to this deliciously cheesy faux Little Italy is all about the kitsch and the comfort food. Family-style eating in guilt-inducing portions abound. Disparage it for being a chain if you wish, but they make a respectable meatball — each one tender, well-seasoned and completely crave-worthy. The meatballs are immense, so one will suffice when placed atop an order of spaghetti with marinara or meat sauce. 3368 Peachtree Road, 404-816-9650; and two other metro Atlanta locations. www.maggianos.com.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Sad news: Nak Dong Gang closes

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009

Nak Dong Gang, which I reviewed in a recent Cheap Eats, closed its doors this week. I have been unable to reach the owners for any details regarding the sudden closing, but a friend went over today and confirmed the Korean duck restaurant’s fate.

Cheap Eats: Nak Dong Gang Restaurant

Monday, April 20th, 2009
DUCK! Winged bacon at Nak Dong Gang

DUCK! Winged bacon at Nak Dong Gang

It’s a rare occasion when a food writer is in a position to introduce someone to his country’s own cuisine. But that is exactly the situation I found myself in the other day when brunching at Nak Dong Gang Restaurant (7130 Buford Highway, Doraville, 770-242-0201). One of my companions was Gene Lee, the author of the formidable Atlanta food blog Eat Drink Man … A Food Journal (www.eatdrinkman.blogspot.com). Lee’s pristinely plated dishes, breathtaking photos and steadfast devotion to all things culinary make his site my undisputed favorite in the city. Given his prowess-especially with homespun Korean dishes inspired by his beloved mother’s cooking-I was surprised to learn he’d never eaten Korean-style duck, the specialty at Nak Dong Gang. A visit was in order. So, we bypassed the brunch flapjacks in favor of birds that quack.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Mouthful: Latin bakeries

Saturday, April 11th, 2009

BUFORD HIGHWAY FARMERS’ MARKET: This temple to all things ethnic is much improved after an extensive face-lift. The bakery, however, remains deliciously unchanged with its wide assortment of mostly Mexican baked goods. Don’t miss the large sprinkle-encrusted sugar cookies, or the besos (kisses), an orange-shaped cake/cookie hybrid filled with a kiss of jam and encrusted in a thick layer of powdered sugar. Any of the fresh pan dulces (sweet bread) are perfect alongside your morning coffee. 5600 Buford Highway, Doraville. 770-455-0770.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Cheap Eats: Shield’s Meat Market

Thursday, April 9th, 2009

MAKING ENDS MEAT: Some selections from Shield's Meat Market

Knowing the people who grow and sell your food is not a matter of culinary elitism. It’s about cultivating and maintaining a sense of community, something that’s increasingly difficult in this age of convenience. A little love goes a long way when it comes to food. And that’s why it’s such a joyous occasion to discover a gem like Shield’s Meat Market (1554 N. Decatur Road, 404-377-0204). Geoff Irwin’s old-fashioned butcher shop has weathered the storms of “progress” since 1947. The market’s latest location in Emory Village (it used to be in downtown Decatur) is hidden in plain sight, as the signage is quite similar to the adjoining CVS.

The store is stocked with everything you need for dinner: spices, canned Italian tomatoes, a small selection of wine in a range of prices, assorted freshly baked breads from Alon’s Bakery and a pristine selection of produce and cheeses. First-time visitors may wonder, “Where’s the beef?” Don’t fret. Most of the meats are stored in the back and cut to order in the room marked with the funny sign: “Nobody gets in to see the wizard! Not no body, not no how!” Shield’s does this not only to ensure that the choice cuts of corn-fed beef are as fresh as possible, but also cut to each customer’s exact specifications.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Mouthful: Eggs benedict

Tuesday, March 24th, 2009

CAFE DI SOL: This little café’s outdoor patio is a picturesque spot to dine alongside young families, brunch addicts and in-the-know regulars when spring is the air. The Café’s Eggs Benedict doesn’t try to be fancy, but it is prepared exactly as it should be. The kitchen takes toasted Thomas’ English Muffins and layers them with pan-heated German cold smoked ham, runny poached eggs, a silky sunshine yellow Hollandaise and a smattering of chives. 640 North Highland Avenue. 404-963-9438. www.cafedisol.com.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Cheap Eats: Alpine Bakery & Pizzeria

Saturday, March 21st, 2009
A selection of baked goods at Alpine Bakery

TAKE THE CAKE: A selection of baked goods at Alpine Bakery

Alpharetta is the last place you’d expect to find a slice of New York. But that is exactly where Long Island native Bill Clementi and his partners, Stephen Bishop and Anthony DeTommaso, opened Alpine Bakery & Pizzeria (295 Rucker Road, Alpharetta, 770-410-9883, www.alpinebakeryandpizzeria.com).

Clementi grew up around dough. Some of his mostly Sicilian family were in the pizza and restaurant business. But it was his grandfather, a baker, who inspired a young Clementi to begin writing and compiling the book of recipes he still uses today. After one too many torturous New York commutes, Clementi moved down to Georgia. He eventually opened a pizzeria with Bishop and DeTommaso, whom he met while serving in the U.S. Coast Guard. But things really came together when Clementi started baking cakes in his basement for a friend’s restaurant. The operation quickly expanded from its meager beginnings into an 8,000-square-foot bakery cranking out cakes for a long list of restaurant clients; the retail location opened some 18 years later.

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(Photo courtesy Alpine Bakery)

Mouthful: Juice bars

Tuesday, March 17th, 2009

ARDEN’S GARDEN: While you’re probably familiar with this Atlanta-based juice company’s bottled products, its stores are worth the visit for the exclusive juices—like wheat grass—made with a cloth-filtered hydraulic press so the juices don’t lose any of their nutrients by being exposed to air, etc. Hardcore juicing enthusiasts will adore the “Grand Slam” a sequence of mini shots—wheat grass, ginger, lemon and cranberry—with a pineapple chaser. No matter how skeptical you may be, the sensation as each juice infuses the body does leave one feeling cleaner. Jack LaLanne may actually be onto something. 1117 Euclid Avenue. 404-827-0424; and four other locations. www.ardensgarden.com.

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Cheap Eats: Fat Philly’s Wings & Things

Monday, March 16th, 2009

“Where ya from?” I ask Kenny Washington, one of the owners of Fat Philly’s Wings & Things (886 Martin Luther King Jr. Drive. 404-254-3113. www.fatphillys.net). “D.C.” he says. “What kind of rolls do you use?” I say with my left eyebrow in a slight arch. “Amoroso’s. Why? You trying to see if my cheesesteaks are the real thing?” He laughs and throws me a wink. Before I can say anything else, my boyfriend mentions some Northeastern sports rivalry and they start yapping in unintelligible male-speak. I go into food mode.

It’s Sunday, which means grease is in order and all food (and drink) sins will be forgiven tomorrow. I go for the triple cheese cheesesteak with extra cheese and meat. The man orders the ribs with baked beans and potato salad. As we wait—and wait you will since this place operates at a down-home pace—I scan the digs. The space is quite modern and feels a little like a franchise with its bright blues, brushed metal accents and booming surround sound. The counter is a great spot to see the cooks in action, but the tables give you a prime vantage point for my favorite pastime: theater of the living. A cluster of ever-present policemen in winter garb huddle around a table noisily chatting with their eyes fixated on one of the mounted flat screen TVs. Students from the nearby A.U.C. drift in and out in their just-rolled-out-my-dorm-room-bed best.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman) (more…)

Mouthful: Mac-n-cheese

Saturday, March 7th, 2009

CARVER’S GROCERY: Slap yourself if you haven’t been to this quintessential Westside Meat ‘n Three spot. On any given day, the restaurant churns out a long list of Southern classics and its mac-n-cheese is tops. Carver’s keeps it simple by using the stuff mac-n-cheese dreams are made of: Velveeta! The Carvers start with a simple béchamel sauce and add Velveeta before mixing it with the cooked shells. The result? A sticky, creamy and super cheesy heap of love on your plate that pairs beautifully with any of the homey entrees. 1118 West Marietta Street. 404-794-4410. www.carverscountrycooking.com.

FOX BROS BAR-B-Q: This BBQ joint takes this ubiquitous side from boring to terrific with a few twists. They make their mac-n-cheese with shells, not elbows. The cream-based sauce gets a healthy dose of white and yellow cheddar cheese and a touch of cayenne pepper for some spice. You can get it alongside your BBQ of choice, on a veggie plate or by the pint/full pan. But there is no debating the sinful superiority of the fried mac-n-cheese. Fox chills the cooked mac, slices it into squares, breads it in seasoned flour and deep-fries until it’s golden and gooey. 1238 Dekalb Ave. 404-577-4030. www.foxbrosbbq.com.

OK CAFÉ: Long-time Atlanta residents are well acquainted with this funky restaurant where American standards are served by saucy wait folk in retro garb. The Café’s “Triple cheese macaroni” has racked up awards over the years and many proclaim it “the best” in Atlanta. A mix of Parmesan, cheddar and Monterey Jack cheeses get a boost from a sprinkling of ranch seasoning and some chopped parsley for color. The kitchen uses a corkscrew-shaped pasta for some added textural interest and bakes it off underneath a sheet of aluminum foil so the contents meld. 1284 West Paces Ferry Road. 404-233-2888. www.okcafe.com.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Cheap Eats: Delicious Kabob

Thursday, March 5th, 2009

There is no better evidence of our superior ethnic dining scene than the proliferation of restaurants specializing in sub-cuisines. The newest hotspot is Delicious Kabob (3640 Shallowford Road, 770-457-4948), an off-the-beaten-path restaurant specializing in Northern Chinese and Szechuan dishes. Owner Zhiqiang Zhang hired one of Atlanta’s Chinese superchefs, chef Lu Liu and his partner, chef Beijing Yang to oversee the menu. Chef Liu and chef Yang hail from Northern China as do Zhang and his sister, Shomey, who runs the front of the house. But Liu is an expert at cooking most regional Chinese cuisines and took home the gold in a National Chinese cooking competition.

Northern Chinese fare dominates the menu. The lamb kebabs encrusted with cumin seeds and chili oil delight with a hint of game on the tongue, the crunch of char rife with kiss of the fire and the seductive aroma of toasted cumin. “Tofu skin with pepper” plays on subtlety. Chewy pappardelle-like noodles made from crosshatched tofu skin—the film that forms atop tofu—are stir-fried with slender pieces of juicy pork and slivered green hot peppers. A clay pot filled with “Lamb stew with goji berries and dates” hints at Morocco with the waft of clove and sweetness from the dates and chestnuts. The stew’s broth is slightly thickened with cornstarch (instead of time), but the flavor is there.

The Szechuan menu is small, but strong. Paper-thin pieces of beef in the “Szechuan crispy fried beef spiced with chilis and peppercorns” are lightly breaded and wok-fried to a crisp. The Szechuan peppercorns, dried red chilis, cilantro and green onions perfume the meat and add that quintessential “ma la” heat (numbing and spicy). The chili and green onion laden broth in the “Fish boiled in spicy chili oil” isn’t slick with oil, but just fatty enough to play against the confit-esque pieces of grouper and crunchy Napa cabbage. Comparisons to other Szechuan restaurants are inevitable. But this restaurant’s breadth of warming food and equally warm staff give it more than enough strength to stand on its own.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)