Omnivore Atlanta

RING THE ALARM: Occupying prime real estate in the 100-year-old Engine 11 firehouse on North Avenue, this laid-back tavern — formerly the Spotted Dog — maintains its antique charm. Grand mahogany accents, dimly-lit lamps (made out of copper-plated fire extinguishers) and two large arched windows give the dining room and patio some common ground. The space upgrades to the present with three large plasma TVs broadcasting the latest games

HOSE ‘EM DOWN: The fully stocked bar houses 16 beers on draft, with most of the focus on domestic favorites. A few gem craft beers include Kona’s Fire Rock Pale Ale from Hawaii. There’s a small wine list, but beer and straightforward mixed drinks are the main draw for the after-work crowd.

STOP, DROP AND ONION ROLL: The menu features the usual bar fare as well as a few stand outs, including meat loaf and “Flashing Lights Shrimp” — fried shrimp with a trio of dipping sauces. If you really plan to chow down while throwing back a few, your best bet is to go with the juicy Engine 11 burger.

Engine 11 Firehouse Tavern, 30 North Ave. 404-873-3473. www.engine11atl.com. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.- 3 a.m.; Sunday 10:30-midnight.

(Photo courtesy Engine 11)

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You’d never think we were on the verge of a second Great Depression — or that it was Sunday night in the Bible Belt, for that matter — last night at the new Leon’s Full Service in Decatur (131 E. Ponce de Leon Ave., 404-687-0500). The place was packed with a 30-minute wait for a table.

Leon’s is owned by the same folks who operate the very popular Brick Store Pub. The menu at Leon’s is far more ambitious, making the former gas station a gastro pub.

Generally, we found entrees better than starters. My favorite dish of the evening was this plate of Niman Ranch pork osso-bucco with sweet cubes of butternut squash mingled with slightly bitter, buttery kale and a jus flavored with Gordon India Pale Ale.

You’ll find about 15 interesting beers on draft here, including a raspsberry-flavored one from Belgium.

More in my next Grazing column.

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)

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IN THE MIX: Mixologist Sasha Petraske

SPEAKEASY SWAGGER: World renowned mixologist, Sasha Petraske—of Milk and Honey and Little Branch fame—brings a piece of New York to the new W Hotel in Downtown Atlanta. Petraske has enlisted the always-stylish and incredibly talented Eric Simpkins, formerly of Trois, who fits perfectly with Petraske’s philosophy and vision. While the approach to drink making is decidedly old-fashioned, the decor is anything but. The W’s signature contemporary touches abound, from the sleek construction materials to the long low-profile tables surrounded by wide retro-modern chairs. Vintage influences pop up in smalls touches including the arm garters worn by male barkeeps and the well-chosen barware.

POST-PROHIBITION: While the beer menu definitely caters to the hotel set, the range of obscure boutique spirits is bound to impress even the most seasoned cocktail aficionados. All of the mixers—like ginger ale and apple juice—are freshly made in-house. The ice—yes, ice—is the coolest feature. An illuminated 150-pound block sits at the center of the bar and is chipped to order “Basic Instinct” style. Other varieties—including spears and spheres—are used depending which drink you choose. Early favorites include “The Bees Knees”—a delicate gin-based concoction ripe with clover honey—and anything made with emulsified egg whites. Feeling a bit peckish? Hungry imbibers can happily nibble on a small selection of dishes from the neighboring BLT Steak kitchen.

Drinkshop, 45 Ivan Allen Jr. Blvd. 404-582-5800. Mon.-Sat., 7p.m.-2:30a.m.; Sun., 7p.m.- 12:30a.m. www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels/index.html.

(Photo by Ben Rose Photography)

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SERENITY NOW: This cozy Oakhurst spot proves wine bars don’t have to be pretentious. The restored Scottish Rite Hospital has transformed into a low-key hangout decorated with a mix of antiquish furniture and dark walls covered in paintings by local artists from the adjoining gallery—the best spot is the window-filled room where you can gaze out onto the sleepy neighborhood.

WET YOUR WHISTLE: Wines are sold in four tiers available by the glass or bottle. The selection won’t wow connoisseurs, but has a smart mix of New and Old World varietals. The bar also has an impressive list of small-batch spirits and Hot Buttered Rum from the seasonal cocktail menu is a nice way to take the edge off the cold weather.

A MATTER OF TASTE: The menu includes straightforward dishes such as bruschetta, macadamia nut encrusted scallops and baked tilapia – hardly revolutionary – but the chef’s cheese plate would be perfect alongside a glass of wine.

Palate Wine Bar, 321 West Hill Street, 404-373-4702. Sun.-Tue., 6p.m.-10p.m.; Wed.-Thu.; 6p.m.-11p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 6p.m.-12a.m. www.palatewinebar.com.

(photo courtesy Palate Wine Bar)

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PUBLIC HOUSE: Most taverns have that worn in feel from years of drunken revelry, but Marlow’s Tavern — a chain with locations all over metro Atlanta — aims for spruced up décor with a laid back vibe. Contemporary touches such as clusters of black-and-white photos in glossy black frames, modern light fixtures, and discretely placed plasma televisions create a posh feel. Sleek, however, doesn’t equal cold here. Cozy dark wood booths and brick walls add the kind of warmth that begs you to linger. Plus, the staff is friendly and attentive.

LIBATIONS: Beers — ubiquitous brands, regional microbrews and imports — abound. Since this is a tavern, the wine selection is small and middling. But the long list of signature and classic cocktails, including a Dirty Vodka Martini made with Level vodka available in “filthy,” is the thing to order here. Look for the seasonal hot drink menu (made with and without alcohol), with choices such as Marlow’s Nip — Caribou coffee spiked with brandy, Kahlua and chocolate liquor.

RAISING THE BAR: The menu holds many familiar pub grub dishes with a slightly upscale twist. Some entrees verge on too creative, so stick with the basics. Filling starters such as crunchy kettle chips topped with blue cheese, scallions, bacon and tomatoes are perfect for sharing with friends. Burgers are always a safe bet, as are a side of hand-cut fries, also available as a starter topped with truffle oil and Parmesan.

Marlow’s Tavern, 950 W. Peachtree St., Suite 215. 404-815-0323. Sun.-Wed., 11:30 a.m.-midnight; Thurs.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.- 2 a.m. www.marlowstavern.com.

(Photo courtesy Marlow’s Tavern)

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Kozmo Gastro Pub (11890 Douglas Rd, 678-526-6094) is opening Tuesday, Feb. 3, in Johns Creek. Owner is Oswald Morgan and chef is Travis Collum. Star mixologist is Jimmy Rudnick.

The menu includes starters like tempura-fried green beans and herbed popcorn. Entrees include short ribs with cauliflower mash, roasted chicken, fried chicken and hamburgers. …

This just in: “After two years in the making, the City of Atlanta has approved the plans for The Mix, a multi-story retail, restaurant and residential project at 841 North Highland Ave.” Construction is scheduled to begin in April. It will be interesting to see if the development attracts another round of out-of-town, big-name restaurateurs. …

This from the folks at Liz Lapidus: “Slated to open February 5 in Atlanta’s W Atlanta-Downtown hotel, Drinkshop will be the city’s first-ever haute-cocktail beverage program with a focus on fresh ingredients and a selection of ices. Developed by David Tetens of Starwood Hotels, and Sasha Petraske, world class mixologist credited with New York ventures Milk and Honey and Little Branch, the focus of DRINKSHOP will be to take patrons back to the 1920’s and 30’s, before invention of ice machines and soda guns.”

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CASUAL CHARACTER: Craftbar — the more casual little brother of Tom Colicchio’s Craft located on the building’s first floor — is a nice alternative for something low-key and less expensive. The restaurant’s decor has an organic yet refined feel: Wood walls meet industrial accents such as dangling lightbulb clusters and dark metal. The open kitchen placed near the entrance of the restaurant makes for an entrancing dinner show.

CRAFTY COCKTAILS: A drink binder houses a wide selection of wines from around the world, an impressive list of spirits such as grappa, eau-de-vie, scotch, rum, tequila, and a handful of original cocktails. Favorite drinks included the Sunshine Squeeze #1 — fresh ginger, Ketel One vodka, Depaz cane syrup and lemon and lime juice — and the herbaceous and playfully named Tom’s Collins made with Hendrick’s gin, Fever Tree Bitter Lemon and a fresh slice of cucumber.

COMFORT CUISINE: A tiny cast-iron pot filled with perfectly diced steak tartare crowned with a raw egg comes with golden brown gaufrette potato chips. Large ricotta meatballs are packed into a cozy bowl alongside wide ribbons of fresh pappardelle enrobed in a deep red tomato sauce and topped with snowflakes of Parmesan cheese. S’mores made with homemade salted graham crackers, marshmallows and dark chocolate are almost too pretty to eat.

Craftbar, the Mansion on Peachtree, 3376 Peachtree Road. 404-995-7580. Sun.-Thurs., 5:30-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5:30-11 p.m. www.craftrestaurant.com/craftbar.html.

(Photo courtesy Photos.com)

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A Silicon Valley travel writer files a story from Atlanta’s Ten Pin Alley:

This is the reinvention of one of America’s most kitschy, quietly enduring pastimes. Laverne and Shirley have slipped out the back door, making way for superglam alleys where bowling sometimes seems besides the point.

Travelers have now added designer bowling alleys to the must-do list, much like “it” boutique hotels, chic restaurants and after-hours joints.

“The whole idea here is to give locals and tourists an alternative to the club, a place they can relax and let off some steam,” says Lonnie Moore of the Dolce Group, which owns the 12-lane Ten Pin Alley at Atlanta’s Atlantic Station complex.

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MEMORY LANE: Thanks to a recent renovation, the previously dingy digs of the 49-year-old Midtown institution are welcoming once again with plenty of deliciously tacky old-school charm to go around. Each of the 32 state-of-the-art lanes has an assigned table for congregating; an Atari-esque kiosk with various service call buttons; and a mounted TV monitor — complete with those wonderfully cheesy animated bowling shorts — that tallies and boasts which player is the current “Kingpin.”

GUTTER BOMBS: Basic and obscenely cheap items such as hot dogs, burgers, hand-battered wings, fried fish baskets and funnel cakes abound on the large menu. But there’s something simply irresistible about the “Big Nasty,” a sinfully messy and greasy heap of French fries, tater tots and homemade potato chips topped with chili, nacho cheese and pickled jalapeños. Check out the lunch special Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-2 p.m., which includes lane rental, those bitchin’ shoes, your pick from a handful of menu items and a fountain drink for $11.75.

BEER FRAME: This bowling alley doesn’t play around when it comes to booze. The fully stocked bar has an impressive list of more than 84 beers from all over the world, wines, an extensive selection of liquors, and shot specials to warm up your arm and give you the courage to bust out that impression of Jesus from The Big Lebowski. They even sell towels to shine your ball if you’ve forgotten your prop at home.

Midtown Bowl, 1936 Piedmont Circle. 404-874-5703. Daily, 9 a.m.-3 a.m. www.midtownbowl.com.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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FRATERNAL FUN: “Real World” fans should remember Ace Amerson from the Paris season. The cast member was always throwing parties for his flatmates, which was fitting since he owned a bar back home in Statesboro, Georgia. Amerson recently moved to Atlanta, and (with the help of some buddies) opened Flip Flops in Midtown. The turquoise house contains a dizzying hodgepodge of colorful island decorations including bamboo walls, palm trees and fake grass. The upper deck opens later in the evening with a DJ for dancing, and the guys are working on a menu of classic bar food.

IN A DAIQUIRI DAZE: Don’t come here expecting high-falutin’ cocktails. You’re at the beach, remember? The centerpiece of the bar is a row of neon daiquiri and margarita machines spinning everything from your basic margarita to a concoction made with sweet tea vodka. If a brain-freeze is unappealing, a Patron margarita on the rocks only sets you back $6 and there is plenty of Kentucky Gentleman Bourbon.

SOUTHERN GENTS: The bartenders may seem like your average dudes slinging shots, but don’t be deceived. They’re easy on the eyes and have the uncanny knack of inserting themselves into your conversation at just the right moment. It’s easy to throw the hangout into the “aging frat boy” category, but the place actually has heart. Their mascot, an insanely adorable Golden Retriever, is a nice touch too.

Flip Flops, 1140 Crescent Avenue. 678-705-8555. Wed.-Fri., 5p.m.-2a.m.; Sat., 11a.m.-3a.m. www.myspace.com/flipflopsatl.

(Photo courtesy Flip Flops)

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