Omnivore Atlanta

Last week in my review of Vine, I made a comment about the restaurant’s wine list regarding origin and diversity:

The menu, room and list all look to California for inspiration, but all three would do well to take a big step beyond the West Coast. With 400 wines on the list, I’d like to see more variation in origin rather than a few nods toward the Old World in a sea of California wines.

It appears my generalization was incorrect. I got an email from Chris Reid, Vine’s sommelier, which corrected me. He took the time to break down the wine list and found this:

Total counts by percentage are… California 37%, non-California domestic 12%, imported wine is 55%! The majority is IMPORT.

Obviously, I should have paid more attention. My methodology was horribly flawed, and revealed one of my shortcomings: I tend to pay more attention to one part of a wine list than others: full-bodied whites. That’s no justification for the misinformation printed in the review, and to Reid and Vine I apologize. There’s no excuse for generalizations like this that misinform the public - I am fully aware of the impact a review can have, and I take the responsibility seriously.

With that said, it was difficult for me to find a white wine at Vine that I really wanted to drink. That’s partly because of my own tastes, something I usually try to keep under wraps in a review. But it’s one of my restaurant peeves when the list is so heavy on Californian chardonnays and has nothing French, or the few French chardonnays on the list are prohibitively expensive (as is the case at Vine). I’d like to see restaurants that specialize in wine give as much space to French and Italian whites (beyond pinot grigios) as they do to California whites.

It’s true that Vine has some serious geographic variety, offering wines from India, South Africa, Argentina and beyond. I never had the pleasure of speaking with Reid during my visits, and if I had, perhaps he could have directed me to a wine I could get excited about. As it is, I am very sorry for the error.

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Join Terrapin Beer Company at their new brewery in Athens Sat., Aug. 23 from 5-9 p.m. as they kick off the new school year with a sneak preview of their latest year-round offering: SunRay Wheat, brewed with honey from Savannah Bee Company. They may have the latest Side Project on tap, too, the Gamma Ray Wheat Wine. There will be music outside from Blue Flashing Light, Picture Me Free, and Bain Maddox & Shot from Guns; inside, Wesley Cook and Spencer Frye will perform acoustically. Terrapin President John Cochran’s father, Jimmy, will provide the barbeque. The $10 cover benefits Tumornators Children’s Tumor Foundation. For more information, contact the brewery at (706) 549-3377.

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I’ve always wondered about Wine Spectator’s awards - they seem to show up at restaurants with all kinds of wine lists. As long as the list is long-ish and has a few really expensive bottles, the overall quality doesn’t seem to matter that much. Now some guy has received the award for a restaurant that doesn’t exist. Read the story here.

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Hugh Malone Ale
Allagash Brewing Company
Portland, ME
8.5% ABV

This Belgian-style IPA from Allagash is named for the Irish immigrant who pioneered hopping techniques in the early twentieth century in Portland. Allagash contributes $1 from the sales of its tribute series to charitable causes, in this case the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association, the country’s oldest and largest state organic farmer coalition. The Hugh Malone pours a glowing, deep orange with a dense, persistent head. Allagash adds Simcoe hops at three points in the brewing process, including the “first wort hopping” developed by the beer’s namesake. The result is a solid citrus oil bitterness from beginning to end, with some piney and herbal notes as well. But this is no hop bomb. Crystal malts contribute to a medium body and subtle caramel sweetness, and Belgian yeast adds a tanginess mid palate. Drying alcohol and a lingering hop bite characterize the dry finish. Heed the recommended serving temperature of 45-50o F, as the character really shines as the beer warms. Allagash’s Rob Tod has balanced beautifully the bready goodness of a Belgian strong pale ale with the crispness of an American IPA. Nicely done!

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Stoudt’s Pils
Stoudt’s Brewing Company
Adamstown, PA
4.7% ABV

A classic German pilsener made by a German family from Pennsylvania, Stoudt’s Pils is as close to Bohemia as you can get in the United States. It pours clear and golden, with a steady stream of bubbles forming a neat cap of clingy head. Spicy, floral Saaz hops greet the nose along with some bready malts. The taste is grainy and delicately sweet, backed with a solid hop bitterness and a dry, grassy, hay-like finish. The frothy mouthfeel is light but not thin. As good a pilsner as you will find, in or out of Germany, and perfect for backyard barbeques and ballgames.
(photo by Jeff Holland)

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“Alt” means “old” in German, and this beer is brewed in the old style of an ale, before lagers became the standard in Germany. Like lagers, however, alt biers are cold-conditioned for extended periods to produce a clean, crisp taste. Pinkus’ organic version of an alt is golden in color and rather lighter in body that others of the same style. There’s a hint of apple tartness in the flavor, along with light, grainy malts and citrusy, grassy hops. The peppery spice and tang of yeast suggest a saison, the rustic French-Belgian farmhouse ales made not too far from the Dusseldorf region where alts are most popular. This refreshing ale would make a fine alternative to a wheat beer on a hot summer evening.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Albino Python Lager
Shmaltz Brewing Company
Saratoga Springs, NY
6.0% ABV

Appropriate for the freak show theme, this beer is modeled after a Belgian witbier, but brewed with lager yeast rather than the traditional Belgian ale yeast. The characteristic coriander and orange peel are added, along with some more unusual spices like ginger and fennel. The result is a sweet, mildly spicy brew, with a slick mouthfeel and a clean, refreshing finish. The unfiltered yeast in the bottle contributes to its cloudy, pale-yellow color and almost blue-gray tint. The lively carbonation yields a perfectly big frothy head when poured into a weizen glass. There’s a hint of honey in the pale malt sweetness, along with a bit of citrus twang. The spices meld nicely, with nothing overwhelming the palate. Still, I wouldn’t mind seeing the spices cranked up a notch. The fennel, ginger, and a lemongrass character suggest a pairing with Asian food. The body is pleasantly light but not watery. Overall, a satisfying experiment and definitely ahead of most American pale wheat ales.

(photo courtesy Shmaltz Brewing Co.)

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Double Simcoe
Weyerbacher Brewing Company
Easton, PA
9.0% ABV

Simcoe hops are capable of providing a strong hop aroma and flavor without imparting an astringent bitterness, and this new arrival to Georgia shows it to brilliant effect. I don’t want to give the impression that Double Simcoe is not bitter, however. It is, but in a good way. Huge grapefruit and pine flavors hit first in the taste, but gradually the deep whiskey-like malts and floral honey sweetness assert themselves, resulting in a flavor that is balanced in the way that two linebackers on a teeter totter would be balanced—big on both sides of fulcrum. The hop oils coat the tongue and, along with the warming alcohol, have a slight numbing effect that is soothing but not dulling. The big flavors and boozy aroma encourage a slow, savoring pace. Despite its full body and creamy, sticky mouthfeel, the finish is dry and woody, with a lingering hop bitterness on the sides of the tongue. A true treat for hopheads and an excellent example of what the best American brewers are producing.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Sam Adams Summer Ale
Boston Beer Company
Boston, MA
5.2% ABV

Sam Adam Summer Ale is brewed with lemon and grains of paradise, a “mysterious” spice used in Renaissance brewing. This American-style wheat beer pours a glowing orange-gold with a fluffy head of off-white foam. The mild lemon and yeast in the nose suggest a mellow brew, with only a hint of spice. The taste is tangy and refreshing, smooth and soft on the palate. The wheat lightens the body and adds a faint graininess. With almost no hop bitterness and just a hint of salt, lemon and herbal grassiness, this is a delicate beer that stays out of the way, making it a perfect beer to have with lunch at the beach or after mowing the lawn.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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The wine industry’s embrace of screw-tops and synthetic corks doesn’t just threaten the livelihood of wood cork-makers, it apparently threatens cork forest ecosystems.

From Audobon Magazine:

“If consumers and the wine industry turn their back on cork, then these forests will lose their viability and risk facing the axe,” says Grahame Madge, an RSPB spokesman. “If you’re not drinking wine that’s been in touch with a cork, then it is like felling the trees yourself.”

Note to the person who received a bottle of Two Buck Chuck (with natural wood cork) from me last week: I’m not a cheap dinner guest. I was simply doing my part to save ancient Portuguese cork groves.

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Fire Rock Pale Ale
Kona Brewing Company
Kona, HI (brewed in Portland, OR)
5.8% ABV

Kona’s American pale ale has a lighter body than is suggested by its glowing, copper orange color. The faint aroma of sweet malts and floral, citric hops suggests a British IPA more than an American pale ale. Smooth, sweet malts are up front in the taste, with some appropriate tropical fruit notes and a modest backing of orange citrus. Hop bitterness is mild, but sufficient to leave a satisfyingly crisp finish with a bit of lingering fruitiness. A light to medium body, a pleasantly bright carbonation, and a clean character make it easy drinking and refreshing. Fire Rock would be a perfect accompaniment to summer food like a Caprese sandwich on crusty bread, bean salad, or fruit and cheese.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Highland Shining Rock Lager
Highland Brewing Company
Asheville, NC
6.0% ABV

It’s a little late for this spring seasonal from Highland, but it just seems to be popping up in liquor store coolers. This chestnut-colored bock has an aroma of rich, earthy malt and spice. There’s a load of sweet caramel and toffee flavor up front from the toasted, bready malts. Hop bitterness is low, but distinct woody, spicy and herbal notes add a measure of balance. The finish is a bit doughy and heavy, but there is a smoky, nutty, cinnamon character that gives this beer a complexity that would marry well with traditional German fare like spiced meats, cheeses and pickled vegetables.

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Heavy Seas Small Craft Warning Uber Pils

Clipper City Brewing Company
Baltimore, MD
7.0% ABV

Imperial or strong pilsners are arguably a dubious style, more often than not failing to exhibit the dry, crisp character that defines a pilsner. Clipper City’s Small Craft Warning, part of its Heavy Seas series of high-gravity offerings, hedges its bets a bit by calling itself a pilsner-style bock, which as it turns out is a fairly apt description. Maltier than a traditional pilsner, but with the unmistakable aroma of Saaz hops and a satisfyingly dry finish, this is a very refreshing beer for strong lager. A pleasant spicy, citrus hop aroma greets the nose, but the pilsner and caramel malts assert themselves at the first sip. Hop bitterness is low, but there is a spiciness and a bit of alcohol drying in the finish that keep it balanced. Medium bodied and smooth, the mouthfeel is more akin to a bock than a pilsner, and it could benefit from a bit more carbonation to lighten the body, but overall an interesting addition to a style that is still being refined.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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Firth of Forth Ale
Harpoon 100 Barrel Series #22
Harpoon Brewery
Boston, MA
5.4% ABV

This limited edition Scottish ale was guest brewed by Steve Stewart, who interned at Harpoon in 1998 before returning to his native Scotland and eventually starting his own brewery. Harpoon has released a new beer in this series, so you can find No. 22 on sale at Green’s for a very reasonable price.

It pours a deep chestnut brown with an aroma of sweet caramel malts and some floral hops. The flavor profile emphasizes the bready, caramel malts, along with toffee, maple and weak coffee. A peat-like smokiness and lingering nuttiness add layers of complexity. There’s a whisper of plum/fig fruitiness, but overall the taste is musty rather than fruity. Moderate grassy, earthy hops are just enough to counter the malt. Velvety smooth, substantial without being syrupy, flavorful without being showy, the Firth of Forth Ale is a very pleasant and drinkable Scottish ale. I can imagine tossing back a few of these from a flagon in a dank Scottish castle.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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As I noted in Talking Head , the Brick Store will be celebrating its 11th anniversary beginning Saturday June 14th by tapping at least one limited edition keg each day. There have been some changes to the schedule and a few new details, which are given below. The special kegs will be tapped at 3pm daily and Chef Eric Ottensmeyer will be pairing daily food specials to accompany each beer. I am so there:

Saturday June 14th - J.W. Lees Lagavulin Wooden Pin Cask (2001)
- Regenboog t’Smisje Guido

Sunday June 15th - Harviestoun Ginger lime
- Regenboog t’Smisje Catherine the Great

Monday June 16th - Highland Brewing (Summit Dry Hopped) Kashmir IPA

Tuesday June 17th - Terrapin Southern Fried Brown Ale
(Oak aged brown ale w/muscadine grapes)

Wednesday June 18th - Great Divide Oak Aged Yeti w/ Espresso

Thursday June 19th - Oskar Blues Chubbourbon (old chubb aged in bourbon barrels)
- Allagash Rosa (tripel aged in oak w/brettanomyces wild yeast)

Friday June 20th - Victory Wild Devil (Hopdevil W/ brettanomyces)
- Strubbe Double Tripel

Saturday June 21st- Harviestoun Ola Dubh 30 yr
- Alvinne Balthazar

Sunday June 22nd - Avery Uber Svine (dbl. dry hopped Hog Heaven)
- Regenboog t’Smisje Kerst

Monday June 23rd - Sweetwater Brewing Firkin (details to follow)

Tuesday June 24th - North Coast Barrel Aged Old Stock
- Allagash Rosa (tripel aged in oak w/ brettanomyces)

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Brooklyn East India Pale Ale
Brooklyn Brewery
Brooklyn, NY
6.8% ABV

Billed as an English-style IPA, Brooklyn’s offering is more of an homage than a replica of the style to which American brewers have taken such a shine. The 6.8 percent ABV pushes the range of English versions of the style, and the use of Willamette, Centennial, and Amarillo hops from the United States gives it a stronger citric presence than is typical in English examples. Still, Kent Golding and Northdown hops from England are utilized as well, imparting a delicate floral aroma and clean hop taste. East Anglia pale malts add a solid underpinning of classic biscuity malt flavor (in the English sense of a dry cookie more than fluffy, yeasty bread). The medium body and lively carbonation give it a pleasant mouthfeel, and the balance of fruitiness from the malt and moderate hop bitterness in the finish is truly refreshing. A good choice to keep in the fridge this summer for grilling and entertaining.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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With all the back-and-forth discussion of the health benefits of red wine, it’s hard to know whether you can be self righteous about your wine consumption or not. But here’s some new research that furthers the wine-for-health argument we love so much.

According to an article in the New York Times, red wine may work its magic on the human lifespan to a greater degree than thought before.

The article explains:

The study is based on dosing mice with resveratrol, a chemical found in some red wines. Some scientists are already taking resveratrol in capsule form, but others believe it is far too early to take the drug, especially using wine as its source, until there is better data on its safety and effectiveness.

Dr. David Sinclair of the Harvard Medical School, a co-founder of the the drug development company, Sirtris, said this new research could change medicine. But another researcher, Dr. Matthew Kaeberlein of the University of Washington in Seattle, said the results involving mice may not translate to similar results in humans.

(Photo courtesy of Photobucket.com)

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Denver Pale Ale
Great Divide Brewing Company
Denver, CO
5.6% ABV

This English-style pale ale is an alternative to the hoppier American versions like Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Nice floral, grassy hop aroma and flavor balanced with a mild toasted malt backbone and a biscuity tang. Hop bitterness is medium and carries through into the crisp, dry finish. The active carbonation contributes to excellent head retention, and the medium body is perfect for quaffing. A satisfying beer to accompany a summer barbeque or tailgate party.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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