Omnivore Atlanta

The Twitterers are tweeting that Stella in Grant Park will close at the end of December and be replaced by Doc Chey’s Noodle House. I’m not happy about that.

Bookmark to:

Alice Waters of Chez Panisse was spotted brunching at Watershed today. Pass it on. (Hat tip: Stephen Curry)

Bookmark to:

MULTICULTURAL: The eclectic menu at Skewerz Pizza K

I’ve long maintained that a review, no matter how many times a critic visits a restaurant, is a snapshot in time. Things can change overnight. There are exceptions, of course. Fine-dining restaurants often maintain quality despite changes in ownership and kitchen staff.

An example of the latter is the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead, where Guenter Seeger began his career in Atlanta, then moved on to open Seeger’s. Woodfire Grill, opened by owner/chef Michael Tuohy, has maintained the same quality since Tuohy’s departure for California. Ditto, or largely so, for Joël after the departure of Joël Antunes for New York.

But smaller restaurants can easily be derailed by the same kinds of changes that big-monied venues take in stride. Then, too, there’s the problem of getting a thorough experience of a restaurant’s menu. This is especially difficult for me, since I’m usually writing first impressions or investigating a particular classification of food.

Continue reading “Grazing: Skewerz, take two”

(Photo by James Camp)

Bookmark to:

RAGUN CAJUN: The crispy fried catfish at Crawfish Shack Seafood

One morning, we are all going to wake up and find that we have turned the same color. A post-racial world will eliminate a significant portion of Americans’ conflicts. Until then, there is Buford Highway.

For at least 25 years, the road has been transitioning to an intense multicultural enclave best known for its ethnically diverse restaurants. Stop a moment to ponder the role of dining in the diminishment of ethnocentrism. Every visit to Buford Highway is an opportunity to cross a cultural boundary. Dining on delicious, unfamiliar ethnic food is a serious step toward the realization that ethnocentrism and racism not only oppress other people, they also limit our experience of much of the world’s beauty.

During the decades of Buford Highway’s transition, I’ve watched the cultural diversity blend ever more. It’s not just a matter of an authentic Chinese restaurant now. A few years ago, for example, I went to a Mexican restaurant that specializes in Chinese cooking. (A fist fight erupted while I was there.) My understanding is that there’s a restaurant in another area of town that features Indian-style Italian cooking.

Continue reading “Grazing: Cajun spice at Crawfish Shack Seafood”

(Photo by James Camp)

Bookmark to:

As reported yesterday by Meredith Ford in the AJC , JOËL BRASSERIE is currently without a liquor license. Since then, rumors have been flying that the restaurant would potentially be closing next week. Ford put up a new post today defending against allegations that she wanted the restaurant to fail. KC Public Relations Rep Karen Canavan said this morning that the restaurant has no plans to close. They are re-applying for their liquor license, and the process can take up to two weeks, she said. During that time, they will not be able to serve alcohol on premises. The restaurant plans to throw a party when they do get their license back, Canavan said.

Bookmark to:

Well, ain’t this tricky?

New York City has a new law that requires chain restaurants with with more than 15 locations to list the calorie content of menu items. The never-wrong Perez Hilton reports that members of the Houston’s chain are changing their names and menu language to try to avoid the new requirement.

The health department is not amused and has ordered the restaurants to comply. The issue will be decided in court later this month.

Perez says Houston’s trickery is enough to make him not want to eat there. Meanwhile, he has not checked in about the Whole Foods brouhaha.

Bookmark to:

The Waffle House communications department confirmed this afternoon that the restaurant will open a new location on Technology Square in Midtown late this year or early next year. Waffle House VP of Marketing and Communications Pat Warner said that the restaurant will be a standard Waffle House, but that corporate is also thinking about including a Wi-Fi lounge in the space. (Hat tip to Abby for the heads up).

(Photo by Tim Psych via Flickr.com)

Bookmark to:

Adventurous Tastes says it’s Stephen Sharpe of French American Brasserie. You can check him out and get sloshed enough to hit on him at a celebration tomorrow night:

To celebrate Chef Sharpe’s big win, Adventurous Tastes and FAB are throwing a party on FAB’s  roof deck on Wednesday, August 5, starting at 7 p.m. Come enjoy complimentary FAB appetizers and a cash bar serving your favorite adult beverages, plus the signature drink of the night – a Bacardi Dragon Berry Lemonade. Come check out Chef Sharp for yourself and see what all the fuss is about!

Bookmark to:

Prominent Atlanta pastry chef Aaron Russell of Decatur’s Chocolate Bar notified the restaurant yesterday that he will not return to work. Since new management took over the Chocolate Bar this year, staff members have been uncomfortable with menu changes centered around the new restaurant location in Castleberry Hill, said Russell.

It’s rumored that several other staff members also quit yesterday in support of Russell.

Russell said he has had “to endure a long, slow slide into mediocrity” since original owner Karen Britain left the Chocolate Bar early this year. Russell originally teamed with current Porter Beer Bar chef Nick Rutherford (both had previously worked at Seeger’s) as co-chefs for the Chocolate Bar under Britain when it opened in 2007.

According to Russell, the new Chocolate Bar menus will only be printed once a year — so seasonal changes or creativity are out of the question.

“It’s not the kind of restaurant or the kind of food I’d like to be associated with,” he said.

Russell said he’s had several job offers already, but has not yet made a decision about where he’ll go next.

Bookmark to:

In response to Cliff’s post from earlier today:

Bookmark to:

UPDATE (July 20): The video which appeared below was posted in the same spirit I post all kinds of other lunacy I encounter on the Internet — for amusement. The 50-odd comments that follow demonstrate that my effort bombed. It’s not the first time. Cliff Bostock.

The video that appeared here has been removed as a courtesy to Shaun Doty, who was concerned about the incendiary nature of its contents.  It can be found on YouTube.

Girls go wild at the Vortex:

The Shumacher Group is listing Mitra for sale. The attractive restaurant is on Juniper Street in Midtown. …

Headline from ThePacker.com: “Despite Atlanta being a city with many dining opportunities, produce sales to the restaurant segment have slipped” …

Bookmark to:

Have you driven all over Atlanta in a desperate attempt to find the raw foods you crave? Chef Jenya simplifies your search in the video above.

Do you cook? Then you’ll like this new website, Good Bite.

Do you love the recession? Perhaps you need to open a pizzeria.

Didn’t anyone tell Indigo Girl Emily Saliers that meat is murder? Check out her favorite Atlanta restaurant (after Watershed, of which she is part owner).

Popeyes’ sales are up (even though I haven’t eaten there in many months). But overall profits are down. Meanwhile, Arby’s and and Wendy’s are invading the Middle East.

Who’s (finally) taking over the Clubhouse location at Lenox Square?

La Tavola is celebrating its 10th anniversary with a prix fixe menu of all-time favorites. Hurry. It’s only available for a few more days.

Optimism is epidemic in Midtown!

Teens go wild in Johns Creek!

Do some yoga and eat something organic at the Go Green Expo this weekend.

Bookmark to:

To shed light on last week’s suspicions, The Reynolds Group PR Rep Jill Caramella sent out a press release yesterday about the changes coming to Trois. The dining room will have a new concept in September, though the bar and event spaces will remain open. Trois plans to give their employees jobs at other Concentrics restaurants in the downtime.

The release quoted owner and founder of Concentrics Restaurants Bob Amick.

“We conducted intense guest focus groups and surveys at TROIS which revealed the restaurant was not meeting guest expectations,“ he said. “As a result, we feel it is necessary to adjust the décor and menu to better please our guests. We are excited to provide more insight on the new concept when all elements are solidified.”

Bookmark to:

I heard a rumor this morning that Trois, Concentrics’ glittering French restaurant in Midtown, will be closing within the week.  Calls to the restaurant and the restaurant’s PR rep garnered a lot of “no comment”s (although PR rep Jill Caramella at the Reynolds Group promised more information by the end of the day). But we were able to find three separate sources who told us, off the record, that the downstairs bar will stay open, probably serving food, while the upstairs dining room is “re-branded”. We’re told that concept, price point and decor will all be changed. It will no longer be Trois.

We’ll keep you posted as the official word comes down.

(Thanks to intern Robyn Baitcher for her intrepid reporting, which contributed to this post)

Bookmark to:

Phil Mutz gets the Food Snark of the Day award for this Facebook comment:

Phil Mutz thinks Five Guys is the most over-priced made-to-order fast food ever. If it weren’t for French fries dusted with crack, I’d never eat here.

Bookmark to:

Our frequent commenter Foodieman linked today to a dishy piece in New York Magazine’s “Grub Street” blog about former Atlanta chef Joël Antunes:

The Oak Room is blaming several unpaid bills on former chef Joël Antunes, who was forced out in February. One purveyor, France-based Faye Gastronomie, has been stiffed on a bill of over $35,000, according to an e-mail obtained by Grub Street. The screwup is Antunes’s because the chef made “unauthorized purchases,” Oak Room publicist Willie Norkin tells us. But Faye Gastronomie claims it has a long history of good relations with Antunes.

Bookmark to:

The May issue of Knife and Fork includes this bit of news:

WHERE ARE THEY NOW? Chef Paul Luna is writing his first children’s book (nothing to do with cooking) in San Jose, California, instead of mooning customers as he once did at Luna Si.

Oh SNAP! If you were in Atlanta 10 years ago, you probably heard about Luna. He was a brilliant chef/owner with a theatrical personality, to say the least. He ejected diners who dared to ask for salt, pointing them toward Houston’s. If you were camping at a table and got up to use the restroom, you’d likely find your chair had been removed when you returned.

As his tenure lengthened, and he opened two more restaurants — Eclipse di Luna and Loca Luna — his schtick became more blatantly sexual. The occasional mooning turned into strip tease on the bar at Loca Luna, for example. Eventually, he left town. I often wonder where he is now and I’m glad to get the report from Knife and Fork’s publisher, Christiane Lauterbach.

If you never laid eyes on Luna, you should check out Christiane’s Atlanta Magazine piece almost 10 years ago.

Bookmark to:

We went — where else? — to the Shed at Glenwood Wednesday night, for the $3 sliders and had another great meal. I’m addicted to the barbacoa but tried a new one made with meatballs, which turned out to be another winner.

The place was packed last night. In fact, we had difficulty finding a parking space.

Speaking of parking, I headed to P’cheen Monday for its “Bone Lick BBQ” night. After 10 minutes, I gave up trying to find a parking space, so I didn’t get to pig out on the Carolina-style ‘cue. Instead, I headed to the Standard for its regular Monday night special of Indian curry. …

As I mention in this week’s Grazing column, we ate at Solstice Cafe twice recently. Today, Erick Newman, a partner in the restaurant who recently assumed management of it, made this cryptic announcement on Facebook: “Erick Newman has signed his separation agreement with Solstice Cafe and thanks all of his friends for the support they provided.”…

The Reynolds Group is this week’s winner of the Florid Writing Award in its announcement of a new pub:

Rí Rá Irish Pub, debuting in mid- July at the intersection of 12th Street and Crescent Avenue in Midtown, will epitomize a true Irish pub experience, building a comfortable neighborhood environment where conversation flows as smoothly as Guinness ebbs in the glass. Constructed from a pub meticulously restored in Ireland then shipped to Atlanta, the location is destined to be Midtown’s latest hotspot, offering an impressive line-up of live music, a comprehensive drink list and fare that defies pub standards. After all, when your name is translated as “celebration and good fun,” it would be blarney to have it any other way!…

How I dearly and futiley wish that well-intentioned PR firms would learn that they can greatly, hugely, impressively increase the chance of their oh-so-very-important news being published by sticking to the facts and leaving out the baroque, frilly, subjective adjectives.

Bookmark to:

Media Bistro ran this story yesterday recapping a panel of media professionals who spoke about marketing and publicity to a Mediabistro Circus audience. One of the surprising gossip tidbits in the meeting? Bravo SVP of Marketing Ellen Stone said that “Top Chef’s” home channel Bravo and Food & Wine magazine’s publisher American Express Publishing are working together to potentially create a “Top Chef” magazine. It’s nice to see some Food Network competition, as its stars typically dominate everything from culinary shows to cookbooks to retail cookware.

Bookmark to:

New York Magazine’s food blog Grub Street has named Knife’s Edge columnist and Atlanta chef Richard Blais “The Baddest Effin’ Chef on Twitter.” The nod was due to Blais’ at times charged tweets about his patrons, staff, and his cooking demo with chef Stefan Richter.

Bookmark to:

A reader wants to know who’s got the best tiramisu in town. Anyone have a suggestion? I’m drawing a blank. Please help. She sounds desperate.

Bookmark to:

I heard a rumor last week that Top Flr had a new chef, but when I called the boys over there were being very tight lipped. “Call back in four days,” they told me. Today I called back and managed to get a name: Landon Thompson. But they wouldn’t say anything else, other than that he’s local. Couldn’t find anything on him, but heard another rumor that Thompson is quite young.

No word on Mike Schorn, who has lead the kitchen up till this point. More to come as we get it. …

Bookmark to:

Cheese find: Whole Foods on Ponce de Leon was selling Parrano for only $9.49 a pound today. That’s less than half what I’ve seen it usually priced around town. It’s great with the organic Fuji apples, my obsession, that are on sale at Kroger for $1.69 a pound….

Are you a hyperlocavore? Of course you are. Check out this great site….

Nick Setty writes to recommend the new Cuban Diner in Marietta. It’s getting positive reviews on Yelp….

For Women: Chef Asata Reid seems to be here, there and everywhere. She was recently featured in the Emory University student newspaper.  Check out her website. She will be conducting two classes at Sevananda Natural Foods Market in Little Five Points: “Natural Foods 101″ on May 6, 12 noon-2 p.m. and “Celebrate Women’s Wellness” on May 9, 10 a.m.-12 noon. Cost is $10 or Sevananda members and $12 for non-members. She’s also conducting classses through Spicy Wifey….

“Can we afford to eat ethically?” asks Salon.com. Writer Siobhan Phillips establishes her task:

So last year, when global food prices began to soar, I devised an experiment: My husband and I would eat conscientiously for a month, not just on our regular grocery allotment but on the government-defined, food-stamp minimum: $248 for two people in our hometown of New Haven, Conn. We would choose the SOLE-est products available — that is, the sustainable, organic, local or ethical alternative. We would start from a bare pantry, shop only at places that took food stamps and could be reached on foot, and use only basic appliances. The test would mean some painful changes; gone was my husband’s customary breakfast of Honey Nut Cheerios and our favorite dinner of pepperoni pizza. But it would answer that nagging question: When shopping for food, did I have to choose between my budget and my beliefs?…

Sex and McDonald’s: I recently wrote a post about two Domino’s employees who posted a YouTube video of themselves having unsanitary fun with a sandwich one of them was making. While looking for background information about it, I found an incredible story about a video of the sexual assault of an 18-year-old McDonald’s employee by co-workers that was broadcast by ABC and is now on the Internet too. If you want to (see and) read about it, check out my personal blog, Sacred Disorder.

Bookmark to:

There’s a new cafe in the Lamplighter building in Grant Park. I’ll have details in a day or two. …

I see that Rolling Bones, the cool barbecue joint on Edgewood Avenue is for sale:

This BBQ restaurant is a cinch to operate with a full staff in place making for a flawless transition. This is one concept poised for major expansion and is a perfect vehicle for national franchising. Everything is needed to take the next step along with great training from current Owner and Staff. Super Intown Metro Atlanta with with hi visibility with hi traffic and walk up trade. 1300/SF with 450/sf patio and drive thru. This building has won major awards for its incredible and very cool design. Well established with same Owner for over five years. All equipment, furniture, fixtures and smokers are in excellent shape. Fully equipped kitchen can pump out any volume. Seats over 40 inside and almost 40 on the outside patio. Gross sales of $700,000.00 with $80,000.00 after paying full staff and expenses. Priced at $95,000.00 for the business with a monthly lease at $3500.00 per month or buy business and Real Estate and all equipment, furniture, fixtures and smokers for $695,000.00.

Bookmark to:

I received this review of Varasano’s on Facebook. It’s from Steve Harper:

I convinced Ken he needed an adventure, and we hoofed it into Buckhead tonight (Friday) from Alpharetta to visit Varasano’s for the second coming of pizza.

I have to say…what we ate was terrific, and we had a great time.

The place was packed, and we were told we would have a twenty-five minute wait, which I expected. After about that length of time, the hostess asked if we would like to sit at the “pizza bar,” and we did.

This turned out to be a bit of luck, as the kinetic craziness of the folks in the kitchen was a show in itself. We had full view of nearly every aspect of the pie-making that was going on for the restaurant. It was interesting to see staff training each other, offering suggestions and support, and keeping their heads as they attempted to work together against the potential melee of a million pizza orders.

So, the food. We started with delicious spinach salads with candied pecans, raspberry vinaigrette, and little bits of mozzarella. Basic, but quite delicious.

One great thing about this new restaurant for vegetarians (one of us) is that there are several equally interesting options. We decided to share two veggie choices, the caramelized onion pie with emmenthaler and the “dulci” with mission figs and walnuts.

Both were delicious. The CHAR (as mentioned by some reviewer this week) was indeed, charry, in a lovely way. Crunchy, slightly “burny” on some bites. I was amazed at how many different flavors came out of both pies, which were well-layed with the various ingredients. (It was fun watching the fellow do the layering right in front of us.)

The onion pie was slightly sweet and savory, but the fig pie, I think, would make a better dessert offering than the free doughnuts we received for a minor glitch from our otherwise excellent server.

Jeffrey Varasano. seemed relatively calm as he surveyed the profitability.

Ken, who (bless his heart) can be both loud and honest, made a comment to me about the cleanliness of the pizza cutter and a certain rag on the counter, and what do you know! The super-friendly staff were really trying to please (and vegetarians are, after all, a little crazy, in my estimation),

We made a game of guessing which pies we were seeing constructed, and I can tell you, I would like to eventually try them all.

Eat on!

Bookmark to: