Ethnic soups
Saturday, October 31st, 2009
RINCON LATINO: Latinos consider chicken soup to be a complete meal. Every country and region has its own version. At Rincon, the caldo de pollo has more of an El Salvadorian slant. A large bowl of clear chicken broth studded with submerged pieces of tender bone-in chicken comes with a bowl of white rice, oversized El Salvadorian corn tortillas, minced cilantro, chopped onion and jalapeño. You can doctor the soup to your tastes or make a few tacos with a juicy chunk of chicken plucked from the broth. 5055 Buford Highway, Doraville. 770-936-8181.
SO KONG DONG: Forget one-dimensional soups when you are sick. Your body needs a jolt, and a bubbling pot of Korean tofu soup from this tofu house — the kimchee style in particular — is just what the doctor ordered. After a parade of panchan (including one of those little fried fish), the waitress rolls out a cart holding midnight black cast iron bowls perched on tiny wooden coasters. Due to the intense heat of the vessel, the soup bubbles and spurts in front of you — too hot to eat even though you know you want to dive in. Take the time to crack a raw egg into the red liquid and watch it cook while the dish reaches a more manageable temperature. Then dig in to the mounds of silken tofu, zucchini and other vegetables as the red broth burns away all that ails you. 5280 Buford Highway, Doraville. 678-205-0555.
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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)
Because there are so many fancy butters on the market, deciding which brand to splurge on is incredibly difficult — and costly.
Dua Vietnamese Noodle Soup: Owners Mylinh Cao and her mother, Tham Mai, strive to bring a taste of Vietnam to downtown, and standard Vietnamese dishes — such as pho and com — abound. The bún dishes provide a refreshing spin on the average lunchtime salad. Chilled rice vermicelli noodles are loaded with your choice of meat (or tofu), shallots, ground peanuts, crunchy shreds of lettuce, fresh herbs and a hacked-up fried spring roll. The accompanying dish of sweet, spicy and tangy n??c ch?m (a concoction of fresh chilis, garlic and fish sauce) ties the whole thing together. 53 Broad St. 404-589-8889. www.yougotpho.com.
El Taco Veloz: If you’re turned off by loads of filler stuffed into your burrito, head to this favorite of Mexican transplants and lovers of the cuisine. Any taco filling is available in burrito form — minus the rice and other usual suspects. Instead, the soft flour tortillas are packed with nothing but one of the many fillings such as soft shreds of barbacoa (slow-cooked beef) coated in a silky lacquer of its own fat and juices, or a chile relleno filled with gooey cheese. Some of the locations have a drive-thru, but park it and head inside so you can grab a few goodies from the salsa bar to eat with your meal. 5670 Roswell Road, 404-252-5100; and other metro Atlanta locations.
SOUTHERN SWEETS BAKERY: Nancy Cole’s family-run Decatur dessert mecca makes decadent brownies. The word “brownie” may conjure images of diminutive treats, but there is nothing small about these monsters — they’re almost as big as a box of Raisinets. Cole’s recipe uses two types of imported chocolate, which results in an incredibly rich and sticky treat whether your preference is regular or with toasted walnuts. It’s the stuff of which fudgey brownie dreams are made of. Both choices are finished with a lacy drizzle of deep chocolate ganache to take these destination-worthy beauties over the top. 186 Rio Circle, Decatur. 404-373-8752. www.southernsweets.com.
BLT Steak: The beauty of BLT’s Vegetable Chopped Salad lies in the layering of textures and flavors. A pop of sweetness from some fresh corn, the crunch of romaine lettuce, slices of radish, briny feta, olives and a host of other ingredients bathe in a creamy olive-oil-based dressing. The ample serving in a large square bowl alongside the complimentary popovers served with room temperature butter might just be the perfect summertime lunch. 45 Ivan Allen Jr. Blvd. (inside the W Atlanta downtown). 404-577-7601. www.bltsteak.com.
CRAFTBAR: If justifying the cost of dining at the upper level of this two-story New York transplant is downright ridiculous in your book, the restaurant on the lower level has prices that are relatively cheaper for dishes that — for the most part — are just as exceptional. Chef Adam Evans finely minces a mix of grass-fed/grain-fed Harris Ranch tenderloin and sirloin before seasoning it with chives, Dijon mustard, minced shallot, lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil and a drop of Worcestershire sauce. The three-ounce portion is served in a tiny, round Staub cast-iron pot, topped with a sunshine yellow raw quail egg and a mound of deep golden gaufrette potatoes fried in peanut oil and seasoned with an in-house BBQ seasoning mix. 3376 Peachtree Road. 404-995-7580. www.craftrestaurant.com.
CARVER’S COUNTRY KITCHEN & GROCERY: The facade of Robert and Sharon Carver’s Southern meat-and-two dive is deceivingly spartan. But the inside is cluttered with an eclectic mix of clippings and knick-knacks. Carver’s fried chicken has plenty of crunch and juicy meat. You can either get an order of leg and thigh or a breast so big the Carvers actually call it the “Dolly Parton.” Any of the sides (you get two vegetables and bread with your order) satisfy, but starchy items are the best on the menu — especially the hush puppies and mac-and-cheese creamy with Velveeta. 1118 W. Marietta St. 404-794-4410. www.carverscountrykitchen.com.
Agave: Is it any wonder that a restaurant named for the plant from which tequila is made serves excellent margaritas? Agave’s bar stocks an impressive list of obscure tequila brands you can enjoy in your margarita for an upcharge. The restaurant also offers a short menu of house-designed margaritas. Your best bets are the Agave Don Eduardo Anejo — Don Eduardo Anejo, Triple Sec, fresh lime and sour mix on the rocks — or the Corzo Perfecto, a mix of Corzo Super Premium Reposado, fresh lime juice and agave nectar (a syrup resembling honey in texture). 242 Boulevard. 404-588-0006. www.agaverestaurant.com.
SOCIAL: There are places in Atlanta that don’t get nearly as much business as they should. And this quaint and chic Mediterranean café/wine bar is a prime example. Brothers Jalil and Rheda Chikhaoui serve up a menu similar to any you’d find at a restaurant of its ilk in France. During the summer, the restaurant offers an authentic gazpacho as a special. This version is chock-full of the typical ingredients—fresh tomatoes, cucumber, and bell peppers—but they add their own twist with a dash of cumin, harissa and a “special” tomato juice for a smoother mouthfeel. The soup is topped with lump crabmeat and a tiny dice of cucumber for contrast. 12 W. Peachtree Place. 404-525-2246. www.socialintown.com.
ALPINE BAKERY: Alpine’s pies resemble those you find at any worthy New York (or Jersey) diner and the varieties are endless. Like everything in the shop, the pies — available in virtually any style you can imagine — are made on site daily and rise just as high as the cakes. Each pie except the apple is offered in both small (serves 6-8) and large (serves 16-20). The chocolate cream pie is especially delectable. 295 Rucker Road, Suite 140, Alpharetta. 770-410-9883. www.alpinebakery.net.
CYPRESS STREET PINT & PLATE: This hidden Midtown drinking spot not only has one of Atlanta’s best patios, complete with a fire pit, but also serves up loads of “fancy” bar food standards. Among its arsenal of booze-friendly dishes, the restaurant serves sinfully tasty mini corn-dogs. The all-beef franks are hand-dipped in a homemade batter and fried to a hushpuppy-like crisp. One order gets you six that are skewered with frilly toothpicks and served with a whole-grain mustard sauce and smoky chipotle ketchup. Hit Cypress between 5-7 p.m. during the workweek and get them for half-off. 817 W. Peachtree St., Suite E-125 (corner of Sixth and Cypress Streets). 404-815-9243. www.cypressstreetpintandplate.com.
MAGGIANO’S LITTLE ITALY: Going to this deliciously cheesy faux Little Italy is all about the kitsch and the comfort food. Family-style eating in guilt-inducing portions abound. Disparage it for being a chain if you wish, but they make a respectable meatball — each one tender, well-seasoned and completely crave-worthy. The meatballs are immense, so one will suffice when placed atop an order of spaghetti with marinara or meat sauce. 3368 Peachtree Road, 404-816-9650; and two other metro Atlanta locations. www.maggianos.com.
BUFORD HIGHWAY FARMERS’ MARKET: This temple to all things ethnic is much improved after an extensive face-lift. The bakery, however, remains deliciously unchanged with its wide assortment of mostly Mexican baked goods. Don’t miss the large sprinkle-encrusted sugar cookies, or the besos (kisses), an orange-shaped cake/cookie hybrid filled with a kiss of jam and encrusted in a thick layer of powdered sugar. Any of the fresh pan dulces (sweet bread) are perfect alongside your morning coffee. 5600 Buford Highway, Doraville. 770-455-0770.
CAFE DI SOL: This little café’s outdoor patio is a picturesque spot to dine alongside young families, brunch addicts and in-the-know regulars when spring is the air. The Café’s Eggs Benedict doesn’t try to be fancy, but it is prepared exactly as it should be. The kitchen takes toasted Thomas’ English Muffins and layers them with pan-heated German cold smoked ham, runny poached eggs, a silky sunshine yellow Hollandaise and a smattering of chives. 640 North Highland Avenue. 404-963-9438. www.cafedisol.com.
