Omnivore Atlanta

Now it can be told – the true story of my feelings about Shaun Doty’s cooking.

Don’t worry, there’s nothing really negative about it. I have enjoyed Doty’s work ever since he was chef at Mumbo Jumbo. That restaurant, you’ll recall, had Guenter Seeger on board as consulting chef. Doty had worked for Seeger when he was chef of the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead.

After Doty left the Dining Room, he landed at restaurants in France and Belgium, then returned to the States. After two gigs elsewhere, he returned to run the kitchen at Mumbo Jumbo at Seeger’s behest. He then went on to open MidCity Cuisine, then Table 1280, and in 2006, Shaun’s (1029 Edgewood Ave., 404-577-4358) in Inman Park. I believe he has shared ownership in all of these restaurants except Table 1280.

So, Doty has a resume nearly as giddy as Richard Blais’, and I used to make the same complaint about him as others currently lodge against Blais — that he never stayed anywhere long enough to get really focused. Doty has a rep as something of a society dude, often showing up in pictures of convocations of the beautiful people. His restaurants have always seemed to attract that crowd and, knowing their insatiable taste for the nouveau, I’ve wondered if Doty’s peripatetic resume is a reflection of that.

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(Photo by James Camp)

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In the midst of our city’s Southern restaurant boom, let us pause to admire one of the cuisine’s staples, a dish that’s been elevated from down-home comfort food to high-end food magazine cover model: the grit. Versatile, appropriate for any time of day, and able to put a Southern pedigree on a dish in a single bound, grits are the superhero of New Southern cooking.

At Dogwood, they’ve been given their own menu section. The “grits bar” offers a plate of warm grits with a choice of one of three toppings, which have ranged from fried oysters to butter-poached lobster to ham and pimento cheese. The toppings vary in extravagance, but they aren’t the stars of this show. The grits are rich with corn flavor, and their coarse, substantial texture delivers maximum impact to the surface area of your taste buds. Take a bow, grits; encore, encore.

Dogwood sits across from Emory Crawford Long Hospital in the Reynolds condominium building. The few blocks of Peachtree Avenue between North Avenue and the Connector exist in a locational paradox. The city has tried to brand the area SoNo, although I’ve never heard anyone call it that. It’s not really Midtown, but it doesn’t fit neatly into downtown, either. So a restaurant here must tread a carefully plotted path to appeal to both the tourists and conventioneers staying in downtown hotels, and the finicky trend followers who make or break Midtown restaurants. Whether by lucky accident or by design, Dogwood looks poised to pull off both. The striking decor, soft-jazz ambiance, fancy plating compositions and eager service will no doubt please the expense-account set and out-of-towners. But chef Shane Touhy’s thoughtful flavor profiles and attention to quality ingredients should put Dogwood squarely on the radar of Atlanta foodies as well.

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(Photo by James Camp)

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We are still eating at Dynamic Dish several times a week. We especially like Saturday pizza night when you occasionally encounter psychedelic pies like this one fit for a flower child just off a mellow yellow high. It’s the Georgia Pizza, topped with Blue Hubbard squash, hot peppers, mozzarella, tomato sauce and nasturtium blossoms.

We also had a Turkish Pizza with chopped baby collards, mozzarella, feta and garlic. Lots of garlic. Way too much garlic for a love-in.

The menu of pizzas changes every week. There are usually five or more.

Check it out this Saturday night…But, hey, if you’re going to Dynamic Dish, be sure to wear some pizza in your hair….If you’re going to Dynamic Dish, you’re gonna meet some gentle people there.

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Morton’s is hosting a beef and beer dinner. The beer is made by Cistercian Trappist monks at the Abbey of Scourmont in Chimay, so don’t feel guilty slurping down these blessed brews. It’s $45 per beer lover ($5 a ticket going to the Make A Wish Foundation) on Thurs., Oct. 16 from 6-7 p.m. For tickets and info call: 404-816-6535.

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My friend Broderick Smylie, the camera-toting foodie extraordinare, hit Amuse Cochon at 5 Seasons Brewing on Sept. 29.

The Slow Food Atlanta benefit featured Chefs Todd Mussman (Muss and Turner’s), Jay Swift (4th and Swift), Allan Benton (Benton Smoky Mountain Country Hams) and Kevin Rathbun of Rathbun’s. They competed to make the best use of five Heritage pigs. Rathbun took the top prize.

Below are some of Broderick’s pictures. You can see more here. And check out Broderick’s site here.

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Shaun Doty, owner-chef of Shaun’s in Inman Park, has enjoyed loads of favorable reviews from local critics.

Creative Loafing’s Besha Rodell gave the restaurant four stars after it opened in 2007 and Cliff Bostock writes glowingly of Doty’s cooking in this week’s CL. Similar kind words came from Atlanta Magazine.

But the AJC’s Meridith Ford (now Meridith Ford Goldman) may have been the most effusive of all. She declared in her January 2007 review that “there is no other restaurant of this caliber in Atlanta.” And it seems, at least, that a week has seldom gone by since without Goldman offering the restaurant plaudits in a blog post, a “best” this-or-that listing or even in reviews for other restaurants.

That’s why a few eyebrows were raised last month when foodies started hearing that Doty would cater at the AJC critic’s wedding party. Then, on Sept. 25, I practically choked on my chicken livers when the daily ran Goldman’s article gushing about the chefs at her reception, held at South Fulton’s elegant Serenbe community. Ice cream, she said, was provided by Doty, “who was nice enough to make my favorite appetizer from his menu, Sardinian flatbread, as well.”

In the same article, titled “Feast fit for a bride,” Goldman offered kind words (read: favorable, free publicity) for three other chefs with whom the wedding couple did business.

Read the rest of this story here.

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The Edgewood Corner Tavern is jump-starting their monthly Saturday Night Supper Club; 3 to 4 prixe-fixe courses for $30 per person. The drinks aren’t included, but you’ll want to buy them anyway. The taproom suggests beer and wine pairings for every course; reislings, pints of Magic Hat Circus Boy, goblets of Heron Chardonnay, and Left Hand Jack Porter…sound tasty? For more information call 404-577-2310 or click here.

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On Thurs. Oct. 9th, chef Shaun Doty is offering Inman Park Neighborhood Association members half-off on their dinners at Shaun’s (but they have to flash their Inman Park Patrol Membership Card or it’s a no-go).

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Ugh:

Hi Cliff,

Just wanted to let you know that the Globe will be closing today instead of this Friday.

I had a gift certificate lying around and made a reservation for tomorrow night, but they called to let me know that they canceled and are shutting down tonight.

- Lori Sheridan

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Another sign of the times, a message from Jagger’s at Sage Hill Shopping Center:

Now is the time fur all good men (and ladies) to come to the aid of this fine pizza establishment…we’re going through a real slim financial period and our very survival may depend on any kind samaritans out thar who might can lend a hand…so come all ye faithful….fork it over or forever hold your piece….be part owner maybe..help old Bill Jagger out …..the gas crunch and bad economy has our boxers in a bind….so don’t let us sink….I’ll personally make you a pizza everyday of the year for 2 weeks…this product is tops and needs to be preserved here near Emory University…act now……thanks a heap!!…Moe

(Hat tip to Thomas Wheatley.)

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On Oct. 9, Cafe 458 welcomes Pura Vida’s Chef Hector Santiago to prepare a three-course meal for $28. Santiago will be cooking Thursday night from 5:30-8:30 p.m. Reservations ARE required people, so call now: 404-525-3276 or go online: http://www.cafe458atl.com.

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Homegrown Restaurants is celebrating peace, pride and pasta throughout the month of October. Every Wednesday, Rich Chey restaurants (Doc Chey’s Noodle House, Osteria 832, and Stella Neighborhood Trattoria) will donate 15 percent of their revenue to The Pride Committee Inc. The organization promotes unity in the community and also encourages fellow Atlantans to speak their minds. All proceeds go toward the 2009 Atlanta Pride Festival. The schedule is as follows:

Wednesday, October 8th at Osteria 832
Wednesday, October 15th at Doc Chey’s Emory
Wednesday, October 22 at Stella Neighborhood Trattoria
Wednesday, Octobert 29th at Doc Chey’s Virginia-Highland

For more information, log on to http://www.homegrownrestaurants.com.

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The recession — or whatever you choose to call it — has prompted at least one Atlanta restaurant to announce a great bargain:

The Imperial Fez Moroccan Restaurant (2285 Peachtree Rd., 404-351-0870) is now accommodating the economic crisis by making their menu affordable, starting at $25 per person for a complete five-course dinner. They continue featuring belly dancing nightly. The new days of operation are 6-11 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. They are closed Sunday and Monday, except for private events.

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Here’s some bad news for fans of the Havana Sandwich Shop on Buford Highway at North Druid Hills. Fire completely gutted the 32-year-old restaurant last night. The owner is blaming arson.

WSB-TV has the story and a slide show here.

Coincidentally, a friend mentioned eating there just a few days ago, which precipitated a wave of nostalgia. I used to go to the restaurant regularly during a brief marriage to a Cuban woman. At the time, it was about the only place in Atlanta you could get decent Cuban food.  Unfortunately, this fire follows the recent closing of Kool Korner, whose Cuban sandwich many regarded as the city’s best.

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I’m sorry to report that Ryan Stewart has left the Glenwood, which we named the city’s best gastropub in the “Best of Atlanta” recently.

Apparently, Stewart and the restaurant’s owners could not agree about the quality cost of ingredients he customarily uses. Stewart (who, yes, is married to editor Besha Rodell) is a follower of the local/organic food movement. His special dinners at the Glenwood were unique in the city.

Coincidentally, I wrote about owner-chef differences in a recent post about Richard Blais’ departure from Home. I’m guessing we’re going to see more of these disputes as the economy worsens. I know few restaurants that aren’t experiencing a noticeable drop in business.

Meanwhile, Angel Sutor has moved into the chef’s job at the Glenwood. I first met Angel when she was the chef at the much-missed St. Agnes’ Tea Garden years ago. As I recall, she’s had her own go-rounds with restaurant owners over the years. So, someone make some popcorn and let’s watch what happens.

I hope Stewart lands someplace soon and that Angel does well in her new position.

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Surprise! Brad and I did not have our usual Friday lunch at La Pietra Cucina (but we did dine there Wednesday night with three others).

Today we went to the Corner Cafe inside Buckhead Bread Company (3070 Piedmont Rd., 404-240-1978). It’s been a few years since I visited this bakery-cafe, and, frankly it was a shock in just about every way.

The interior, begging for remodeling, looks straight out of the ’80s and the food, which is quite overpriced, was a huge disappointment.

Brad’s crab salad, nearly $15, was completely tasteless. The tomatoes were mealy, the crab was only slightly tainted with taste, the avocado was bland. Even the radishes lacked a peppery note. And it looked straight off the Whirly Q counter at Woolworth’s 20 years ago.

My sandwich, also about $15, was stuffed with shredded over-cooked lamb lathered in basil aioli. I’ve had worse sandwiches but not at this price. A side of roasted new-potato salad was fine.

It is strangely unpleasant for a Buckhead Life restaurant.

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)

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Carmen Cappello, formerly chef at Mix and Sweet Lowdown, has opened Lamplighter (280 Connally St., 404-835-7167) in Grant Park. This was formerly the Lamplighter Cafe.

We had a good meal here Thursday night, less than two hours before the vice-presidential debate. Talk about an appetite spoiler.

Above is my entree, slices of rare duck over rice and zucchini with a Thai curry sauce. Wayne had shrimp and calamari in a spoon-able, sop-able broth that was seasoned with shaved garlic, chiles, basil and extra-virgin olive oil. Also: butterbean hummus, an antipasti plate and bread pudding.

Happily, Cappello has abandoned the floor tiles that much of the food was served on in the restaurant’s earlier incarnation. The interior has been spruced up a bit and the kitchen is open to view.

The menu, which changes regularly, does not so far include any of Cappello’s more playful dishes. Prices are relatively low — $10 to $15 for entrees and $4 to $7 for starters.

More in an upcoming “Grazing” column.

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)

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Shaun’s marks its second anniversary next week, so Wayne and I decided to visit the restaurant last Sunday to see how things were going.

We had a fantastic meal, including this entree of grilled squab served over spaghetti squash with roasted chestnuts. A particular standout was a soup of organic eggplant. If you see it on the menu, do not miss it. And do not miss the oxtail parmentier, a special, either.

Our server, Owen, was unusually knowledgeable. My ordinary questions about ingredients did not have him running back and forth to the kitchen. Ask for him.

Among the events on tap to celebrate the restaurant’s second birthday is a special dinner prepared by owner/chef Shaun Doty and “Top Chef” finalist Richard Blais. They will prepare a five-course dinner on Wednesday, Oct. 8. Cost is $65 ($85 with wine pairings). Ten percent of the proceeds will benefit the Believe in Me Foundation, which supports services for children with autism and other developmental disorders. Doty co-founded the organization.

You can learn about the other events, including a half-price neighborhood dinner, by visiting the news and events section of the