If you’re looking forward to all the splendor of a traditional Thanksgiving meal this year, but want to opt-out of the part that includes slaving over a hot stove, look after the jump for restaurants that’ll be open on Thanksgiving Day in Atlanta with a Thanksgiving meal, traditional or not. (more…)
Love at the Pub tells the story of the Brick Store
I am so glad Rocktober is over, because that means that it is Novembeer. Although I don’t expect Gov. Purdue to declare it officially, I am herewith designating this as the unofficial silly pun name for this month. Novembeer is when we all get together with our loved ones and give thanks for beer. It is also that time of the year when the breweries release their winter seasonals and holiday beers. It is a good month.
There is a lot to look forward to this Novembeer if you are a beer lover, including a new Taco Mac, the release of Love at the Pub, the story of the Brick Store Pub, a host of beer dinners and tastings, and a slew of new beer releases, both local and from beyond Georgia. Here are a few of the highlights of just the next two weeks!
We checked out the new Pure Taqueria on North Highland in Inman Park tonight and had a pleasant meal. The place was packed, noisy as hell and featured a young, energetic staff that might end up becoming known as the city’s best looking.
The redo of the former tenant’s interior is a huge improvement and has a lot in common with the Taqueria del Sol look — lots of windows, a long bar (above) where you can eat and swill margaritas. Unlike TDS, however, you don’t stand in line to order. Although, you may have to wait for a table. We waited about 20 minutes. That’s not an experience one has in Atlanta restaurants much these days, especially on a Tuesday night.
Most of our food was good. Probably my favorite dish was a starter of grilled shrimp with an avocado-habanero salsa (right). For an entree, I tried chicken enchiladas with mole, which, like much of the food here, tasted a lot better than it looked. The mole was quite good, in fact.
As at the new Lupe, tacos are sold three-to-a-plate but you can mix and match. That will drive the price up a bit, since you also have to order side dishes — even the omnipresent rice and frijoles refritos – a la carte.
A surprise was a tres leches cake made with coconut. It works!
Look for more in a future Grazing column.
(Photos by Cliff Bostock)
The new El Toro on Memorial Drive in Grant Park, my neighborhood, has opened. It’s located in the building that was occupied by the much-missed Redfish. I presume it is serving the usual Tex-Mex cooking that appeals to many gringos.
Grant Park was home to several completely authentic taquerias just a few years ago, including a couple hole-in-the-wall joints and the more gringo-friendly Zocalo. The only really authentic Mexican restaurant left is the rather mediocre Mi Barrio, also on Memorial Drive, near Boulevard. And just west of that — on Memorial, at Cherokee — is the fun Tin Lizzy’s Cantina, also serving mainly Tex-Mex border cuisine.
Meanwhile, Pure Taqueria has opened a few miles away in Inman Park.
Illy, maker of what many regard as the world’s best coffee, is going after the Starbucks crowd, according to the Wall Street Journal:
For more than 20 years the closely held company, based in Trieste, Italy, has sold its coffee in high-end grocers such as Whole Foods and in coffee shops, hotels and restaurants in the U.S. Now it’s expanding its reach by signing contracts with cafes in the U.S. that agree to serve Illy exclusively and allow Illy a hand in quality control.
There are only 28 such stores in the US now and one of them is our own Cafe Nineteen in the Westside:
Cafe Nineteen in Atlanta, which closed temporarily last year, reopened in June, having added an outdoor patio with red Illy umbrellas. Owner Sean Lupton-Smith said he began serving Illy coffee “so we could offer a consistent experience to our customers and be strong enough to stand up to the Starbucks around the corner.”
A 12-ounce Illy drip coffee in a white ceramic cup with the red Illy logo sells for $3 instead of $1.60 for his previously no-name cups of joe. Coffee sales have tripled to $750 a day. “We’re open until 2 a.m. and believe it or not, we sell coffee at midnight,” Mr. Lupton-Smith says.
Personally, I prefer Lavazza over Illy, and I mean the taste — not just the lower price.
The Twitterers are tweeting that Stella in Grant Park will close at the end of December and be replaced by Doc Chey’s Noodle House. I’m not happy about that.
LIVIN ON THE EGE: Ege Sushi's uni tofu
On a bright fall day around 2 p.m., Ege Sushi only has two tables occupied in its modest dining room. One by me, huddled over a bowl of steaming udon, slurping comforting broth and fat noodles muddled with scallion and nori and the occasional wisp of egg. A young black woman and an older, Eastern European-looking man occupy the other table. They’re speaking a language that sounds like a cross between Russian, German and Portuguese. Perhaps they’re speaking Russian but she has a Spanish accent. I imagine they’re spies, or doomed lovers, their affections thwarted by grand tribulations and vast distances.
The waitress appears at the table, answering requests with a short nod and an enthusiastic “Hai!” As I look around the room at the slightly shabby but comfortable brown décor — sushi bar stretching down one side of the room, a lone beer tap standing over a keg refrigerator at the back of the room (pouring Sapporo), signs handwritten in Japanese — I realize I could be almost anywhere in the world. The authenticity of the food and the Japanese staff suggest we could be in Anytown, Japan. But the international clientele and the place’s almost transitory feel indicate that we could be in any city large enough to support small pockets of intercontinental authenticity.
In fact, we’re in a strip mall in Marietta.
Continue Reading “Review: Ege Sushi”
(Photos by Jennifer Zyman)
The New York Times blog “You’re the Boss,” is running a two-part list of “One Hundred Things Restaurant Staffers Should Never Do.” It ought to be posted in every restaurant in the city. It anticipates complaints:
Herewith is a modest list of dos and don’ts for servers at the seafood restaurant I am building. Veteran waiters, moonlighting actresses, libertarians and baristas will no doubt protest some or most of what follows. They will claim it homogenizes them or stifles their true nature. And yet, if 100 different actors play Hamlet, hitting all the same marks, reciting all the same lines, cannot each one bring something unique to that role?
Among my favorites from the first 50:
3. Never refuse to seat three guests because a fourth has not yet arrived.
6. Do not lead the witness with, “Bottled water or just tap?” Both are fine. Remain neutral.
36. Never reek from perfume or cigarettes. People want to smell the food and beverage.
40. Never say, “Good choice,” implying that other choices are bad.
To all who are interested in showing off their awesome culinary skills, “Top Chef”will hold auditions here in Atlanta for season seven. This open casting call will be at Craft Restaurant, 10 a.m.-2 p.m., on Nov. 8. Be sure to bring a filled out application, video submission and all other required materials, which can be found on the Bravo TV website.
Also, be sure to brush-up on you pastries and cakes, as a new “Top Chef” spin-off, titled “Top Chef: Just Desserts,” will also be casting at the same audition. The newest version of the show was just recently announced on Oct., 26 and auditions are already underway. The spin-off is said to premiere in 2010.
Craft is located at 3376 Peachtree Road. 404-995-7580. www.craftrestaurant.com.
(Photo courtesy Bravo TV)
There have been conflicting reports of where and when Havana will resurface. Apparently, two restaurants named Havana are slated to open on Buford Highway in the near future. And two different people — Debbie Benedit and William Benedit — claim they are resurrecting the original “Havana.”
Mrs. Benedit (pictured above in the black shirt) has given me her side of the story. However, I have been unable to reach Mr. Benedit for a comment at this time.
Stay tuned as I gather additional facts and get to the bottom of this.
(Photo from Debbie Benedit’s website, www.havanarestaurantatlanta.com)
We dined Thursday evening at Amuse (404-888-1890), the new restaurant in the short-lived Allegro’s space at 560 Dutch Valley Road in Midtown. The owners have improved the interior significantly, turning what was a rather chilly space into a warm, intimate bistro, replete with an instrumental jazz duo. We’d expect nothing less of the owners of Anis (Arnaud Michel) and Apres Diem (Andy Alibaksh) who have teamed up to create Amuse.
The menu by longtime Anis chef Lenny Robinson includes a number of novelties like the appetizer of sliced, charred octopus with pickled seaweed and cucumbers (above). My entree was a chunk of roasted, orange-glazed piglet (right) with shredded, pickled brussel sprouts and a paprika brodo.
Both dishes were terrific, although I thought the pickle flavors tended to overwhelm the octopus, which was sliced from a grilled tentacle. Wayne ordered an interesting appetizer of roasted cauliflower with a cauliflower puree. A bit of chili oil added zing to both forms of my favorite cruciferous vegetable. His entree was crispy mackerel over chickpeas with mint and sultanas.
Dessert: a butterscotch creme brulee with a roasted marshmallow topping for me and two scoops of housemade ice cream for Wayne — one lavender and the other violet.
The restaurant is also open for lunch weekdays and brunch on weekends. Did I mention that portions are huge? Some of the appetizers I saw go by our table looked like entrees, especially one of crispy pork belly over napa cabbage, plum, avocado and yuzu.
I’ll have more to say in an upcoming Grazing column.
(Photos by Cliff Bostock)
Paul Luna, our city’s first celebrity chef (before there was “Top Chef” and such), was spotted at Atmosphere last night. I have not confirmed that he’s moving back, although AtlantaLatino.com reports that “he is looking to make Atlanta a new home and to teach cooking classes and English.”
Luna has, amazingly, crossed the U.S. on bike to promote his children’s book, Luna Needs a Miracle, an English-Spanish text about bridging cultural difference. He’s recorded his impressions of how Atlanta has changed since his departure on one of his blogs.
Let’s hope the brilliant chef decides to cook in restaurants now and then!
My latest obsession: The “Burger stack” at Bocado (887 Howell Mill Road, 30318. 404-815-1399. www.bocadoatlanta.com) on the Westside.
Read all about it on my blog, The Blissful Glutton.
(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)
Despite conflicting reports on opening dates (and locations), I received confirmation today from Havana’s co-founder, Debbie Benedit, that she’ll reopen next week at 3979 Buford Highway in the Crossroads Village Shopping Center (Buford Highway and Clairmont Road) 404-633-7549.
Debbie writes in her sweet note:
I am Debbie Benedit, one of the co-founders along with my late husband, Eddie and his dad, Guido that opened Havana Sandwich Shop in 1976. Right before the fire that destroyed the Buford Highway location, my son, Eddie, opened up in Canton. One month later, Atlanta burned down. For the past year, I have been trying to find a “new home” for my restaurant and my life of 32 years. On a wing and a prayer, and a WHOLE lot of help and support from my kids, friends and a wonderful general contractor, we have done just that. The “Original Havana Sandwich Shop/Restaurant” will be opening next week.
Me, my son Eddie, the girls, that have been with Havana for 15-20 years are all coming back. We look forward to seeing you and all our friends from “the old yellow brick building.”
Debbie also writes that she has launched a new website for Havana. Congratulations to Debbie and her family. I know I’m looking forward to dining at the new digs of my old favorite next week.
(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)
If you haven’t tried Depth Charge Espresso Milk Stout, the latest joint project between Terrapin Beer Company and their friends at Left Hand Brewing in Longmont, Colorado, you might want to sign up for the upcoming collaboration dinner at The Porter Beer Bar on Tues., Nov. 3. Depth Charge has been moving well, thanks to positive online reviews, so it likely will be gone soon. The dinner will also feature the breweries’ first collaboration, Terra-Rye’zd, a black rye lager. (more…)
I stopped at MetroFresh at Midtown Promenade after the gym Monday night, thinking I’d eat something low-calorie. Then I encountered this dish — strips of grilled flank steak over blue-cheese risotto with red-pepper coulis. Sold! Cost, including a cup of Thai coconut-chicken-rice soup, was only $12.95.
This reminds me of the recent study, widely reported, that concluded that if a restaurant advertises healthy food but also offers heavier dishes, people will often choose the latter while congratulating themselves for dining in a health-conscious restaurant.
MetroFresh posts its menu daily and I noticed that tonight’s entrees (Tuesday) include chicken and dumplings. I have to eat elsewhere this evening; otherwise I’d be there.
(Photo by Cliff Bostock)
The newest location of Pure Taqueria — 300 North Highland Ave. — will open Oct. 31. Inman Park residents will be treated to an open house this Thursday night. The new taqueria is in the old Grape location, across from Sotto Sotto and Fritti. …
Check out photographer Mark Petko’s blog Spoonfed Atlanta to see some beautiful shots of dishes at Serpas True Food. Other restaurants he’s featured recently include Top Flr and 4th and Swift. …
In case you missed it, Tom Maicon of Atlanta Cuisine published a great interview with Jeff Varasano, owner of the controversial Varasano’s Pizzeria. Among his comments which have caused further controversy:
The biggest unexpected challenge was the fact that guests eat their pizza with a knife and fork. Coming from NY it’s just a reflex to pick up a slice and fold it. I really want everyone to try pizza at it’s best and a huge part of any food experience is the way it feels in your mouth. A great piece of fresh fried chicken has a nice crunch on the outside that gives way to a juicy interior. Similarly, folding a fresh slice allows you to bite the crust which gives way to the juicy sauce.
This style of pizza has a light crust that is too delicate to retain any crunch after it’s been cut with a knife or if it’s sat too long. We got a lot of early criticism about the texture of the crust and we spent the first two months altering the dough formula to compensate. This was probably our biggest mistake. I know of no pizza with this kind of thin, charred, light airy style that holds up to a knife and fork….
The Cabbagetown Chomp and Stomp is the weekend of Nov. 7. The annual event’s highlight is a chili cookoff. This year’s judges are Shaun Doty, Kevin Gillespie, Linton Hopkins, Kevin Rathbun, Joe Truex and Scott Serpas. …
The Anis and Carpe Diem folks have opened their new restaurant, Amuse, in the old Allegro space on Dutch Valley Road in Midtown. It’s been open a week now. …
We checked out the new Lupe Taqueria (905 Juniper St., 678-904-4584) over the weekend. The new restaurant by Riccardo Ullio is located in the space formerly occupied by Cuerno, his attempt at a Spanish restaurant (something that never seems to succeed in Atlanta).
The new restaurant, named after the Virgin of Guadalupe, features a very straightforward menu of tacos and classics like the chile relleno above and the flan at right. The chile relleno departs from the usual around town by featuring a filling of queso cincho — an aged, firm cheese that does not melt into the creamy texture of chihuahua cheese.
Although it’s completely usual to do so, I prefer my chiles served over the traditional red sauce, not under it, as the chef is doing here. That can easily turn the fried flour-and-egg coating soggy.
I have one major complaint about the restaurant. It calls itself a “taqueria,” but you are only allowed to order plates of three-of-a-kind tacos with the usual rice and refried beans — no mix-and-match. So, even if you’re tempted to order a $9 plate of tacos as a starter, they all have to be of a single kind.
I’ll have more to say in Grazing later this week.
(Photos by Cliff Bostock)
YOU'RE TOAST: Rosebud's chicken liver spread appetizer
It’s the dream of so many young chefs: a neighborhood sidewalk, a random weeknight — Wednesday perhaps — warm light spilling from large restaurant windows, the sound of people laughing. A full bar, the game playing silently on the TVs above. The dining room beyond bustling. A 20-minute wait for a table at 8:30 p.m.
Brick walls. Specials and cocktails written stylishly on chalkboards. An atmosphere that feels neighborly and personal.
But what to call such a restaurant? Something comforting but evocative of individuality. Something that speaks to the young chef’s other loves, possibly something that nods to his taste in music.
Such is the dream-turned-reality of Rosebud, owned by chef Ron Eyester and named after Jerry Garcia’s guitar.
Continue Reading “Review: Rosebud”
(Photo by James Camp)
CL’s Chante LaGon and Besha Rodell chat about the 2009 Food Issue. This year’s issue, which drops today, includes Cliff Bostock’s top 10 favorite restaurants, Besha’ top 5 special occasion restaurants, Jennifer Zyman’s take on the 10 ethnic dishes you must eat before you die, and much more.
Air Loaf is broadcast weekdays on 1690 WMLB-AM at approximately 8:10 a.m., 12:20 p.m. and 6:20 p.m.
Subscribe to the Air Loaf RSS feed to download each new episode automatically
La Pietra Cucina is my favorite restaurant, and my default when I’m in the mood for fine dining. Bruce Logue’s thoughtfully conceived “progressive Italian cooking” makes the restaurant chef-driven — what I find most appealing — but with a distinctive edge.
Favorite Dishes: Mainly, I lunch here and the dish that most often draws my attention is the crispy fish with caponata and salsa passato. (But I never ignore the specials…or the porchetta salad.) 1545 Peachtree St. 404-888-8709. www.lapietracucina.com.
See the rest of Cliff’s Top 10 Favorites and don’t miss our Food Issue 2009, out today.
(Photo by James Camp)
Dynamic Dish is a restaurant where I would happily eat daily. Unfortunately, it’s also a restaurant that is booked most evenings, so lunch is usually the most convenient option. David Sweeney’s brilliant, mainly organic, mainly vegetarian cuisine has gained national kudos.
Favorite Dishes: Anything Sweeny does with collards instantly attracts me, but Saturday night’s organic pizzas are amazingly playful, healthy riffs on everyone’s favorite unhealthy food. 427 Edgewood Ave. 404-688-4344. www.dynamicdish.net.
We will be counting down Cliff’s Top 10 Favorites every day between now and Oct. 21, the day our Food Issue 2009 launches. Check back tomorrow for Number 1.
(Photo by James Camp)
Repast is featuring a “Piedmont Truffle Wine Dinner” this Wednesday night. The five-course dinner costs $125 with paired wines. Space is limited, so call 404-870-8707 now to make a reservation. Chef Joe Truex’s menu looks spectacular:
First course:
Foie gras with truffles
2006 Mascarello Dolcetto d’alba
Second course
Black truffle agnolotti
2005 Fantino Barbera d’alba
Third course
Braised rabbit with cipollini onions, black olives & truffles
2005 Forteto della Luja Le Grive
Fourth course
Short smoked filet mignon with
creamed celery risotto & black truffles
2000 Rocche dei Manzoni Vigna d’la roul Barolo
Fifth course
Frozen lemon chiffon
2003 Forteto della Luja Moscato Passito
The Big Gay Supper Club meets tomorrow night, Tuesday, at One Midtown Kitchen. Cocktails will be served at 7 p.m. and a four-course dinner will follow at 8 p.m. Cost is $35 (not including cocktails or tips).
This is a great way to sample the restaurant’s menu, since the family-style service allows tastes of many dishes. Check it out.
This is from Lisa Hanson at Cabbagetown Market:
Perla Lopez and Carola Pava, of Lupita Coffee, are now open at Cabbagetown Market:Lupita CoffeeMondays through Fridays6-10 a.m.198 Carroll StreetAtlanta, GA 30312404-254-1456Fair trade, organic coffeesCafe con lechePan de queso (gluten free)ArepasFruit cupsCall ahead and they’ll bring your order out to your car. Not quite a drive-through, but almost.
