Omnivore Atlanta

JUST DESSERTS: The mango parfait at Aja

Walking into Aja, Tom Catherall’s newest restaurant in his Here To Serve restaurant group, I felt a little like the main character in the ABC series, “Life on Mars.” In case you’ve missed it, the premise is that this cop falls down or something and when he gets up it’s 1973. Except in my version of the show, I’m a restaurant critic who gets bonked on the head and when I come to it’s 1989.

I uneasily take in my surroundings, looking for clues as to where and when I might be. Paula Abdul is blasting overhead. I make a mental checklist of everything needed for a late ’80s culinary hotspot. Red and black décor? Check. Attractive Asian hostess? Check. Lychee-tinis? Check. Menu of sushi/Chinese/Thai/Vietnamese/Indian/American/pan-Asian flavors? Check. Wasabi mashed potatoes? Well, no, there’s none of those — but there is a wasabi-crusted steak! Close enough.

The 10-foot golden Buddha in the center of the dining room — flown in by Catherall from Thailand — has nothing particularly ’80s about it, but it fits with the era’s disconcerting ostentation.

I would expect all this from Catherall. But I was also expecting exciting food from chef William Sigley (who previously blindsided me at Aquaknox, where I’d expected mediocre food and was happily surprised by his “global water cuisine,” whatever that means).

But Sigley seems to be flexing far less culinary muscle here. Offerings are broken up into sushi, dim sum, and the standard poultry/seafood/meat entrees. Very little jumps out as unexpected. (more…)

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Much has been made of the huge gold Buddha in Aja’s dining room. I found this statue, located in the women’s bathroom, more interesting:

(Photo by Besha Rodell)

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I mentioned a few days ago that Aja has opened and that owner Tom Catherall is scheduled to be among four restaurateurs to be roasted for a good cause next Monday.

It appears that Tom will be preparing to be roasted in style. This image of him as Elvis was included on an email announcement that he will personally be kicking off Aja’s regular karaoke night this Sunday at 8 p.m. Besides getting to hear him croon “Burning Love” (or whatever), you can throw back $1 shots of Status Vodka.

The new restaurant, whose opening last week was packed, according to friends who attended, will also debut its dim sum brunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday. All dim sum items are $5.

Peanut butter, burnt bacon and banana sandwiches are not on the dim sum menu.

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Aja, the latest Tom Catherall restaurant, opened Nov. 7 in the space formerly occupied by Emeril’s (3500 Lenox Rd.). Catherall has hired William Sigley, who has worked at Wolfgang Puck’s Chinois and Todd English’s Olives, as chef.

The menu is pan-Asian. You can find more details on the Here to Serve website. I can’t wait to see the 10-ft. brass Buddha.

Speaking of Catherall, I found this on his blog:

For the first time ever, four distinctive Atlanta restaurateurs – Pano Karatassos, Bob Amick, Tom Catherall and George McKerrow – will be roasted and toasted at 4 Legends of Atlanta Hospitality Roast on Monday evening, Nov. 17, at 6 p.m. at the Atlanta Community Food Bank. They are all sure to feel the heat, but they know it’s for a tremendous cause – to support the hungry and the work of the Atlanta Community Food Bank this holiday season.

Following a cocktail reception, foodies, philanthropists, and socialites will be treated to a delectable three course meal and dessert reception, prepared by four-star chefs Peter Kaiser, Jamie Adams, Carvel Gould and Jonathan St. Hilaire, each adding their own special flair and elegance to the evening. Atlanta magazine restaurant critic Christiane Lauterbauch will provide the evening’s introductions, and Carolyn O’Neil will emcee the Roast.

For more information, sponsorship opportunities or to purchase tickets, visit www.ACFB.org/ROAST or call 678-538-9000.

Tickets are $300-$500.

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Restaurant openings are notoriously uncertain timing-wise, in part because so many licenses have to be granted. But getting a liquor license is often one of the last hurdles before opening day. These places have just been granted liquor licenses, which may mean they will open any minute (unless their contractor screws up, or one of the myriad other hold-ups occur ):

Aja, Tom Catherall’s Asian spot in the old Emeril’s location.

The Porter, a Little Five Points “gastropub” in the old Grandma Luke’s location.

The Bureau at 327 Edgewood Avenue.

The Bookhouse Pub at 736 Ponce de Leon.

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It’s official. Tom Catherall is taking over the space vacated by Emeril’s. His new Asian-style restaurant, Aja, will open October 1.

We ran into Catherall at his latest venture, Home, to which we returned for dinner last night, after an amazing lunch last Friday. Catherall said his concept is inspired by Paris’ legendary Buddha Bar, known as much for its musical ambiance (and recordings) as its fusion of French and Asian cooking (think Vietnam).

Aja (pronounced “Asia”) takes its name from the title track of Steely Dan’s pivotal 1977 album. If you’ve never heard the song, check out the video below.

As it happens, Richard Blais was not in the kitchen last night. Catherall explained that the “Top Chef” contestant had to return to New York for further filming. Let’s see. The season’s filming is supposed to be complete. Could that mean….

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