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JOËL BRASSERIE will remain open, PR rep says

Friday, August 21st, 2009

As reported yesterday by Meredith Ford in the AJC , JOËL BRASSERIE is currently without a liquor license. Since then, rumors have been flying that the restaurant would potentially be closing next week. Ford put up a new post today defending against allegations that she wanted the restaurant to fail. KC Public Relations Rep Karen Canavan said this morning that the restaurant has no plans to close. They are re-applying for their liquor license, and the process can take up to two weeks, she said. During that time, they will not be able to serve alcohol on premises. The restaurant plans to throw a party when they do get their license back, Canavan said.

AJC permits Kessler to eat, after all

Thursday, April 16th, 2009

Wow. Someone at the AJC had an attack of intelligence and reversed the decision to kick John Kessler completely off his food beat. John reports on his Facebook page:

Pardon me while I readjust my whiplash collar. Okay, that’s better. So, on Tuesday I was informed that my new assignment at the AJC was to be a profiles writer for the Sunday paper. I was also told that because of the needs of the new newsroom I would have to “cut the cord” with my former life as a food writer. I was conflicted — happy with a new position that would give me the time to research good stories and space in which to write them, but a little freaked to so suddenly become divorced from a subject I had devoted much of my life to, much longer than my journalism career. But I knew that staying at the paper meant doing what was asked of me, and I am up for the fight.

Yesterday, I was told that — contrary to previous notice — my Sunday “Restaurant Stories” column would not be dying. So, henceforth, I’ll be writing a weekly food column and (more or less) biweekly personality profiles, all of which will be in the Sunday paper. I am pretty excited to be part of a core team of really fine writers and editors, slightly scared that my first profiles of non-food types will totally suck, and ready to do what it takes to keep this paper a part of people’s lives in Atlanta. I landed well here.

To read more, click the link above.

A remarkably stupid decision?

Tuesday, April 14th, 2009

A tsunami of outrage and confusion is traveling through the foodie community. Its cause is the announcement that the AJC’s management has taken John Kessler off the food beat and assigned him the gig of writing personality profiles for Sunday editions.

Our former dining editor Bill Addison has a post about the news on his Atlanta magazine blog. He pays tribute to John for his influence on his own career. You can read the reactions of foodies on John’s Facebook page.

What is not clear is whether John had any role in the decision. I wonder about this because it seems remarkably stupid to kick arguably your most popular writer off his beat. John was first hired at the AJC as dining critic and then, after about eight years, moved to the broader role of food writer. Perhaps moving to an even broader role appeals to him.

Still, he likely had no choice if he wants to stay at the AJC. The change, along with other surviving employees’ reassignments, was announced the day after the paper rid itself of 70-plus editorial staff members through “buy-outs,” including some major names. This follows several earlier rounds of layoffs, buyouts and early retirements. As far as I can tell, the paper’s arts coverage has been completely eviscerated.

The paper is also closing several suburban bureaus and shipping Cynthia Tucker off to DC to ruminate strictly about national-level politics. There’s been no word whether Cynthia, a Pulitzer winner, had a role in her new assignment, either.

I have to confess that when I was reading one of John’s recent pieces a few days ago, I wondered, “Why the hell is this man writing about donuts?” He is a gifted writer and maybe he can take inspiration from Frank Rich who ended his stint as theater critic at the New York Times by becoming its most controversial and engaging Sunday columnist.

Of course, the depth of John’s work will depend in great part on the license he is granted. Whatever happens, the culinary scene is worse for the change.

Whipahol!

Thursday, October 23rd, 2008

A few weeks ago, I had lunch with my friend John Kessler, a food writer for the AJC. As we pulled up to the restaurant, I could see him getting more and more excited, although I knew it wasn’t about the meal we were about to eat. Once we were settled at the table, he brandished the subject of his elation – a whipped cream canister. “Bring us a plate!” he instructed the waitress. He proceeded to squirt a pile of garish, orange whipped stuff onto the plate in the middle of the table, giggling manically all the while. “Try it,” he demanded.

I took a bite – it was sweet, creamy and … wait … full of booze! It was both the most disgusting and most perversely awesome thing ever — flavored, alcoholic whipped cream. Not just alcoholic, but like, 36 proof, grain alcohol-based orange flavored nastiness. My mind reeled. My eyes watered.

The possibilities were endless.

John gave me a couple of cans, but swore me to secrecy until his story about the whipahol came out, which it did today. Read it and weep tears of joy and disgust. I carried the whipahol around in my purse for a few days, forcing it on any innocent bystander who was close enough. I was the life of the party. I think I also scared some people. I haven’t really been using it at home for whipped cocktails or the like, but it sure is a funny thing to randomly pull out of your purse.

AJC’s Meridith Ford Goldman flouts a conflict of interest

Wednesday, October 8th, 2008

Shaun Doty, owner-chef of Shaun’s in Inman Park, has enjoyed loads of favorable reviews from local critics.

Creative Loafing’s Besha Rodell gave the restaurant four stars after it opened in 2007 and Cliff Bostock writes glowingly of Doty’s cooking in this week’s CL. Similar kind words came from Atlanta Magazine.

But the AJC’s Meridith Ford (now Meridith Ford Goldman) may have been the most effusive of all. She declared in her January 2007 review that “there is no other restaurant of this caliber in Atlanta.” And it seems, at least, that a week has seldom gone by since without Goldman offering the restaurant plaudits in a blog post, a “best” this-or-that listing or even in reviews for other restaurants.

That’s why a few eyebrows were raised last month when foodies started hearing that Doty would cater at the AJC critic’s wedding party. Then, on Sept. 25, I practically choked on my chicken livers when the daily ran Goldman’s article gushing about the chefs at her reception, held at South Fulton’s elegant Serenbe community. Ice cream, she said, was provided by Doty, “who was nice enough to make my favorite appetizer from his menu, Sardinian flatbread, as well.”

In the same article, titled “Feast fit for a bride,” Goldman offered kind words (read: favorable, free publicity) for three other chefs with whom the wedding couple did business.

Read the rest of this story here.

Tierra is AJC’s restaurant of the year

Wednesday, October 1st, 2008

Meredith Ford Goldman, the AJC’s dining critic, has named Tierra as the paper’s restaurant of the year. It’s a great choice — I’ve long considered Tierra to be one of our city’s great, under appreciated restaurants. Perhaps now they’ll get the crowds they deserve. Read the AJC story here.