Omnivore Atlanta

Allagash Dubbel Reserve

Allagash Brewing
Portland, ME
7.0% ABV

Introduced to Georgia a little over a year ago, Allagash produces some of the best American examples of Belgian-style beers around. Their dubbel exhibits the rich caramel malt and yeasty tang of a traditional dubbel (Corsendonk and Chimay Red are probably the best known examples) with more of an herbal bite. It pours a deep chestnut brown with a nutty aroma, a hint of spice and some sweet maple notes. The taste is nicely balanced right from the start, with cola-like brown sugar sweetness, spicy bitterness, and tangy yeast all pushing through. A toffee and cocoa center tamps down the fruity esters that are more typical in a dubbel, but there are definite notes of raisin and red apple. Tart apple and citrus emerge middle to end, with a bracing herbal hop bitterness of anise and earth in the lingering dry finish. The mouthfeel is a bit thin for the style, but is consistent and clean, with a blooming carbonation. The well-integrated sweet and herbal flavors would be an excellent foil to sweet grilled meats or smoky cheeses.

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Hugh Malone Ale
Allagash Brewing Company
Portland, ME
8.5% ABV

This Belgian-style IPA from Allagash is named for the Irish immigrant who pioneered hopping techniques in the early twentieth century in Portland. Allagash contributes $1 from the sales of its tribute series to charitable causes, in this case the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association, the country’s oldest and largest state organic farmer coalition. The Hugh Malone pours a glowing, deep orange with a dense, persistent head. Allagash adds Simcoe hops at three points in the brewing process, including the “first wort hopping” developed by the beer’s namesake. The result is a solid citrus oil bitterness from beginning to end, with some piney and herbal notes as well. But this is no hop bomb. Crystal malts contribute to a medium body and subtle caramel sweetness, and Belgian yeast adds a tanginess mid palate. Drying alcohol and a lingering hop bite characterize the dry finish. Heed the recommended serving temperature of 45-50o F, as the character really shines as the beer warms. Allagash’s Rob Tod has balanced beautifully the bready goodness of a Belgian strong pale ale with the crispness of an American IPA. Nicely done!

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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