Omnivore Atlanta

It’s not as weird as the Krispy Kreme burger below, but here’s a novelty at FuzeBurger, another new burger joint. This one’s next to the Krispy Kreme on Ponce de Leon Avenue, but it isn’t featuring the iconic donuts in any of its burgers. (In fact, the restaurant doesn’t offer any desserts at all, weirdly enough.)

The dish above is a starter of fried tofu chips with Thai plum sauce. They’re kind of crispy but melt in the mouth instantly.

Fuze is owned by the same people who owned a Thai restaurant at the same location. Like its predecessor, Fuze has a terrific interior design. Its walls are red and a central focal detail is a long, serpentine, white paper lantern. Its shape is replicated in splashes of white paint on the red walls.

I assume the name, Fuze, is meant to imply “fusion,” and the burgers do indeed have elements of other cultures, from Malaysian to Korean.

More in Grazing later this week.

(Photo by Cliff Bostock)

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THE IBERIAN PIG: The lamb ribs

When food-obsessed people talk about modern cooking, they’re often talking about Spain. Spanish restaurants such as El Bulli have defined modern cooking in recent years, giving us the mad science of molecular gastronomy, and advancing flavors and techniques in ways that have changed the very nature of the relationship between the words “modern” and “cooking.”

So it presents a bit of a problem when a decidedly non-cutting-edge restaurant (even in Decatur) defines itself as “modern Spanish.” The Iberian Pig does just that.

Atlanta has had a strange courtship with Spanish food. The recent closing of Cuerno, our most authentic Spanish restaurant to date, is a prime example of the oft-quoted adage, “Atlanta isn’t ready for authentic Spanish cooking.”

The food served at the Iberian Pig isn’t authentic Spanish, but it’s not modern Spanish, either. To be blunt, it’s bastardized Spanish food.

Continue reading “Review: The Iberian Pig”

(Photo by James Camp)

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We checked out the new Pure Taqueria on North Highland in Inman Park tonight and had a pleasant meal. The place was packed, noisy as hell and featured a young, energetic staff that might end up becoming known as the city’s best looking.

The redo of the former tenant’s interior is a huge improvement and has a lot in common with the Taqueria del Sol look — lots of windows, a long bar (above) where you can eat and swill margaritas.  Unlike TDS, however, you don’t stand in line to order. Although,  you may have to wait for a table. We waited about 20 minutes. That’s not an experience one has in Atlanta restaurants much these days, especially on a Tuesday night.

Most of our food was good. Probably my favorite dish was a starter of grilled shrimp with an avocado-habanero salsa (right). For an entree, I tried chicken enchiladas with mole, which, like much of the food here, tasted a lot better than it looked. The mole was quite good, in fact.

As at the new Lupe, tacos are sold three-to-a-plate but you can mix and match. That will drive the price up a bit, since you also have to order side dishes — even the omnipresent rice and frijoles refritos –  a la carte.

A surprise was a tres leches cake made with coconut. It works!

Look for more in a future Grazing column.

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)

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GOLDEN DELICIOUS: The fried chicken at K&K Soul Food

New restaurants open every day, but no amount of meticulous design can replicate the charm and character acquired with age. Walking into K&K Soul Food (881 Donald Lee Hollowell Parkway, 404-685-1073) feels like you’ve traveled back in time to a different era in Atlanta’s culinary history. Crudely handwritten signs advertise specials such as pigs feet. The cafeteria-style steam table is filled with so many options your head will spin. Take your place in the curving line and study the menu because while the cooking is simple, deciding what to order is not.

Continue reading “Cheap Eats: K&K Soul Food”

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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Lunchtime for intown workers looking for a quick fix is a monotonous endeavor. Sandwich. Salad. Burger. Repeat. Most nearby ethnic options are either dumbed down or too fancy for their own good. Kabobee (609 Whitehall St., 404-688-8885, www.kabobee.com) is neither.

Reza Ashtiani chose to open a restaurant specializing in quick and simple Persian cuisine in an odd quasi-residential part of Castleberry Hill. The self-standing building has many large windows that permit the sun to whitewash the already spartan — and kind of antiseptic — space. You will find none of the typical warm colors or cultural accents you see at more upscale Persian establishments. The only color comes from the charmingly cheesy mural of some hip Charlie the Tuna look-alikes leftover from the fish shack that previously occupied the space.

Continue reading “Cheap Eats: Kabobee brings Persian to Castleberry”

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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El Taco Veloz: If you’re turned off by loads of filler stuffed into your burrito, head to this favorite of Mexican transplants and lovers of the cuisine. Any taco filling is available in burrito form — minus the rice and other usual suspects. Instead, the soft flour tortillas are packed with nothing but one of the many fillings such as soft shreds of barbacoa (slow-cooked beef) coated in a silky lacquer of its own fat and juices, or a chile relleno filled with gooey cheese. Some of the locations have a drive-thru, but park it and head inside so you can grab a few goodies from the salsa bar to eat with your meal. 5670 Roswell Road, 404-252-5100; and other metro Atlanta locations.

Continue reading “Mouthful: Burritos”

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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If you’re looking for a deal next Sunday, check out the Sunday Supper at JCT Kitchen. For $24 you get your choice of a meat like this fried chicken. You and your table mates also select three vegetables for sharing. You also get deviled eggs, biscuits, a salad and dessert.  Park as close to the door as you can. Walking and breathing aren’t much fun after eating all of this.

(Photo by Cliff Bostock)

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We returned to Skewerz/Pizza K on 10th Street last Saturday night. I wrote briefly about the restaurant in May, finding the pizzas unpleasant. But I received an email from one of the owners this week, suggesting that I try the rest of the menu of mainly Indian food.

We did and were quite surprised by the good quality for the price, especially the paneer dishes. The restaurant’s main menu is on a chalkboard, but if you look around, you’ll find a printed menu that also includes a lot of curries. You should order at least one of these, along with a kabob dish.

Nonetheless, the restaurant remains eminently eccentric. There are only four tables inside but, on Saturday night, a DJ was on hand, playing mainly house music — punctuated frequently by flamenco. Got that? Indian restaurant serving pizza and playing flamenco.

I’ll have more to say later this week in Grazing.

(Photo by Cliff Bostock)

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TURKISH DELIGHT: Al Ozelci tends to his baklava.

“How did you hear about us?” Al Ozelci demands the first time I visit Café Agora. It’s a rainy Sunday evening, and I’m unsure about how this particular restaurant works. When I walk in, no one greets me, tells me where to sit, or offers a menu. Ozelci is rushing around behind the counter — a one-man front-of-house, with one cook in back. When I approach him to find out what to do, Ozelci peppers me with questions.

“What kind of food you like? This kind of food?” He gestures to a case filled with a rainbow of salads, dips and other Middle Eastern cold specialties.

“I like all food,” I say.

“Fine. Take a seat. I’ll bring you something.”

A minute later, he arrives at the table, a plate in hand laden with stuff from the case. He places the plate on the table, and after taking a quick minute to do a magic trick for my son (an impressive disappearing-mint act), he begins to pick up small squares of pita and load them with tastes from the plate. An outrageously thick tzatziki, the yogurt shot through with dill, is smooshed with a roasted eggplant. And then Ozelci feeds me the square of pita. “You’ll like this,” he says, watching my reaction.

Continue reading “Review: Cafe Agora”

(Photo by James Camp)

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A selection of special Easter brunches happening in Atlanta this weekend:

103 West- Bruch with live entertainment, face painting and an appearance from the Easter Bunny. Kids under 6 eat free. $25-$60. 103West Paces Ferry Road. 404-233-5993 www.buckheadliferestaurants.com/103west.

Atlanta Botanical Gardens- Tea service. $35-$50. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. 1345 Piedmont Ave. 404-876-5859. www.atlantabotanicalgarden.org.

Aqua Blue- Easter buffet. $10-$30. 10:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. 1564 Holcomb Bridge Road. 770-643-8886. www.aquablueatl.com.

Callaway Gardens- A variety of brunch menus for adults and kids, an Easter Egg Hunt and a visit by the Easter Bunny. April 11-12. $28. 17800 US Hwy 27, Pine Mountain. 706-663-2281. www.callawaygardens.com.
(more…)

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Your guide to food and fun on New Years Eve! Enjoy folks!

ALON’S- Both locations will prepare New Years Eve takeout, from desserts right down to the champagne. 1394 N. Highland Ave. 404-872-6000. 4505 Ashford Dunwoody Road. 678-397-1781. www.alons.com.

AQUABLUE- Will feature a DJ spinning at 9 p.m. and a special New Years prix-fixe menu. Seating begins at 5;30 p.m. $49 per person. 1564 Holcomb Bridge Road. 770-643-8886. www.aquablueatl.com.

ARIA- Offering a four-course NYE dinner with vino to match. Reservations required. $85-$125 per person. 490 East Paces Ferry Rd. 404-233-7673. www.aria-atl.com.

BLUEPOINTE- Experience four-courses of Asian flavor. Reservations required. $79. $24 for the wine package. 3455 Peachtree Road. 404-237-9070. www.buckheadrestaurants.com.

DOGWOOD- Guests have their choice of a three or five-course meal prepared by Chef Shane Tuohy. Three-course: $55, Five-course: $85. 565 Peachtree St. 404-835-1410. www.dogwoodrestaurant.com. (more…)

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Star Provisions To Go: A long-standing item on an ever-evolving seasonal menu, this posh po’boy is a favorite lunchtime item among regulars. The kitchen starts with a soft bun that’s slathered in a remoulade brightened by fresh chives and lemon juice. Large Georgia white shrimp covered in a buttermilk, flour and cornstarch mixture are fried in peanut oil then tucked into the bread along with bright green butter lettuce, sliced local tomatoes and dill pickles for added tang. 1198 Howell Mill Road, Suite 100. 404-365-0410. www.starprovisions.com.

Read the rest of this article here. 

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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Taking a tip from Operation ABECEDarian Eateries, written by a trumpet player and an ecologist, we had one of our most interesting dining expeditions in months when we visited Daru Ssalam Halal Restaurant this weekend.

This is a no-frills operation serving Somali cooking by owner Mohamed S. Ali, a longtime banquet chef for Marriott Hotels.

Closely related to Ethiopian food — Mr. Ali is Ethiopian himself — Somali cuisine also has an Italian influence, owing to a period of occupation. There are dishes literally featuring spaghetti, along with keke which includes chicken and broad “noodles” made of wheat tortilla flour in a savory sauce.

The most unfamiliar dish we ordered was ugali (left), white cubes that tasted like grits, served with kidney beans and spinach.

Half the menu, oddly, is American dishes.

Look for a review in an upcoming Grazing column.

Meanwhile, if you want to visit the restaurant, which is open for breakfast as well as lunch and dinner, it is at 4746 Memorial Dr., Decatur, in a small strip center next to a Dunkin’ Donuts. Phone: 404-298-3440.

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)

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