Omnivore Atlanta

Péché Mortel (Mortal Sin)

Brasserie Dieu du Ciel!

St-Jérôme, Quebec, CAN

9.5% ABV

This Imperial Coffee Stout from Quebec’s acclaimed brewpub turned microbrewery has generated intense buzz among beer geeks since it has been penetrating U.S. markets, and with its hefty ABV and fair trade coffee infusion, it generates a pretty good buzz in just about anyone. Produced in 50-barrel batches only 4 times a year, it is a rare find that disappears quickly from beer stores shelves. If you like strong coffee and you like stouts, do yourself a favor—ignore the $5 per bottle price and pick up one or two for your next special occasion. Be sure to let it warm for 20 minutes or so on the counter to cellar temperature (about 55 degrees).

Péché Mortel pours an impenetrable black with a creamy, mocha-colored head of dense foam. The aroma is a dead ringer for a perfectly brewed cup of espresso with a hint of alcoholic burn. There’s more deep roasted coffee in the taste, along with a rich, dark chocolate flavor and bitterness. Layers of malt complexity emerge with each sip, mingling with spicy rum-soaked black cherry and whiskey notes. The creamy mouthfeel carries the chocolate and coffee bitterness deep into the finish, lingering like the finest truffle candy. If this is mortal sin, then I am going straight to Hell. Oh, yeah!

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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Our Special Ale
Anchor Brewing Company
San Francisco, CA

Anchor’s Christmas ale is one I look forward to every year. Although the recipe changes each year, the evergreen hops and winter spices always evoke the best holiday memories. The dark walnut color with garnet highlights and sparkling clarity are typical hallmarks, as is the one-of-a-kind aroma of spruce, allspice, nutmeg and clove. A brown sugar, cola-like base props up the spices. A balanced palate of rich, earthy spices, toffee, chocolate, cherry, spruce tips, juniper, molasses, and a hint of vanilla cascade from beginning to end. The body seems a bit lighter than in years past, with a spicy tingle and a dry, crisp mouthfeel. There’s some orange zest and a piney bitterness in the finish, along with some drying alcohol. This is an iconic holiday beer and is perfect with any kind of meal or with dessert afterward. Aromatic, warming and clean, with just enough sweetness to complement the herbal potpourri.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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Harvest Wet Hop Ale
Sierra Nevada Brewing Company
Chico, CA
6.7% ABV

Sierra Nevada’s annual wet hop ale is in stores now in 24 oz. bottles that sell for about $5, a relative bargain. Made from hops that are shipped overnight from the Yakima Valley in Washington to the brewery in Chico for the ultimate in harvest freshness, these yearly special releases are a real treat for hopheads. This year’s version will please malt lovers too, with a soft, toasted-malt character and a hint of caramel. Hop bitterness is relatively restrained. The pine and citrus qualities of the iconic American Cascade hop are evident of course, along with some earthy, floral elements. The mouthfeel is satisfying, with a solid body and a dry, crisp finish. Although it lacks the leafy, oily, mouth-coating hops of the best harvest ales, this is a well-balanced and rewarding American ale.

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Brooklyn Lager
Brooklyn Brewery
Brooklyn, NY
5.2% ABV

Brewed in a Vienna style with American malts and mix of German and American hops, Brooklyn Lager pours amber gold, with a nice 1-finger head that sticks around and leaves some spotty lacing. The German hops give off a nice floral, spicy aroma, while the toasty malts are clean and just slightly sweet, with a buttered toast quality. There’s a grassy hop presence throughout and a solid hop bitterness. The Cascade hops contribute a hint of citrusy lime. The body is medium-light with a gentle carbonation, and the dry, bitter finish leaves no off flavors. Beautifully balanced and drinkable, this is, indeed, a great American lager. If it had been around in my college days I would have polished off pitchers of this stuff.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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Gamma Ray
Terrapin Beer Company
Athens, GA
11% ABV

Terrapin’s latest Side Project is an ambitious one. A wheat wine is similar to a barleywine, but with a large addition of wheat for a lighter body and a spicier flavor. Terrapin’s version also adds a large portion of honey, giving it a mead-like strength and a boost of floral esters. The aroma of the Gamma Ray is as intoxicating as the liquid in the glass: a perfume-like mélange of lavender, white pepper, bananas, bready yeast, and orchard fruits. The taste is honey-sweet on the tongue, with a grainy, wheat taste emerging in the middle. Booze-soaked tropical fruits mix with lemon and spice for a breezy but potent cocktail of pineapple, kiwi, ripe apple, cherry, honeysuckle nectar, banana, clove, white pepper, ginger, and bubblegum. Super smooth and creamy, with a slick, almost oily feel upfront, it becomes tongue-tickling and fruity as the carbonation releases on the swallow. Remarkable drinkability for its body and strength. Gamma Ray would pair perfectly with pungent cheeses, nuts, and bright fruits, perhaps together in a salad of bitter greens. One of the best beers yet from Terrapin.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Duck-Rabbit Wee Heavy Scotch Style Ale
Duck-Rabbit Craft Brewery
Farmville, NC
8% ABV

Is the duck wearing the tam on his head, or the rabbit wearing it on his nose? While you ponder that deep philosophical quandary, consider the deep chestnut color and ruby highlights. Note the head that quickly fades under the weight of the malts. Heavy, yes? Sherry-like alcohol and dried, dark fruits, like prune and fig, greet the nose, while a big blast of caramelized sugar and toffee lead the flavor profile. Herbal tones of vanilla, anise, wet tobacco, and eucalyptus are present as well. Some boozy fruits come in toward the middle, with some apricot, cherry, and dark berry notes. A spicy bitterness and juniper tang hold up the back end, barely cutting through the full-bodied, mouth-coating malts. This is a true warmer, and might benefit from cellaring to take the edge off the alcohol. It would be great on the ski slopes if you could figure out how to tote it. Or save it for the hot tub back at the lodge.
(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Ale to the Chief
Avery Brewing Company
Boulder, CO
8.75% ABV

Dubbed a “Presidential,” rather than “Imperial,” pale ale in honor of American democracy, Avery’s election year tribute beer was originally to be released for the Inauguration in January, but the excitement of the race has pushed the schedule forward a few months, proving that opportunistic marketing is alive and well in the craft beer segment. Due to its popularity, a second batch will be bottled next month. I plan to have a few on hand for the Inauguration, and for once I may have something to celebrate. Ale to the Chief pours a deep, orange gold with a thin, clingy head that beads ups nicely to show off its strength. The aroma is of floral, citrus hops and toffee malt, with a hint of yeastiness. The taste is spicy on the tongue, but with a complex malt sweetness from dark Munich and honey malts. An underlying fruitiness is evinced by apricot, orange pith, and grapefruit flavors. Magnum hops deliver a solid bitterness throughout, with a sharp alcohol in the nose. The mouthfeel is full but crisp, with a dry finish from the hops and alcohol.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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Stone Smoked Porter
Stone Brewing Company
Escondido, CA
5.9% ABV

Stone’s Arrogant Bastard draws the most attention, thanks to its cocky attitude, but don’t overlook this sultry gem that is brewed with a portion of peat-smoked malt. The aroma of this nearly black ale is an intoxicating blend of fresh-ground coffee, smoke, earth and leather. The coffee is not as prominent in the taste, with roasted malts, bittersweet chocolate, mild smoke, and earthy peat dominating. The Chinook and Mt. Hood hops provide a low-key herbal, woody counterpoint that evokes cedar, anise, and caraway. Creamy and smooth upfront, the finish is a bit tingly and lingers nicely. The solid carbonation keeps the medium-full body from feeling heavy. This flavorful ale would pair nicely with a rich, fruity dessert or a good cigar.

(photo courtesy Stone Brewing Company)

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Weihenstephaner Korbinian
Brauerei Weihenstephan
Freising, GER
7.4% ABV

I enjoy a dry, toasty Oktoberfest as much as the next stein-hoisting temporary German, but my favorite fall beer is still a rich, nutty dopplebock. Weihenstephan is the self-proclaimed oldest brewery in the world, and they know a thing or two about perfection. This “dunkles starkbier” (dark strong beer) is loaded with malty goodness, embedding flavors of chocolate, mild coffee, soy, and raisin bread into a beer brewed with only four ingredients. An earthy, herbal bitterness is the only hint of hops, but this autumnal brew is all about the malt. Like an artisanal bakery on a rain-soaked November day.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Dernière Volonté
Brasserie Dieu du Ciel!
St. Jerome, Quebec, CAN
6.5% ABV

This abbey-style blond ale from north of the border is a crisp, spicy, refreshing beer that shows a thorough understanding of the best characteristics of a Belgian ale. The color is a cloudy, dull gold from the yeast added for bottle fermentation. The aroma is a lovely mélange of Belgian yeast, flower, and spice. The taste follows the nose closely with some lemony tartness, white pepper, and coriander. Some fruitiness is present as well, with apple, pear, and a hint of green banana. The pale malts are merely propping up the hop and yeast flavors with some light grains and honey sweetness. The body is well-attenuated and dry throughout, with a lively, refreshing mouthfeel. The finish is clean and tart. If you haven’t tried it, sneak this one in before the warm weather ends.

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We’re Only in It for the Money
Lagunitas Brewing Company
Petaluma, CA
8.2% ABV

For its fourth installment in the Frank Zappa tribute series, Lagunitas honors the 40th anniversary of the release of the Mother’s of Invention album “We’re Only in It for the Money,” featuring that album’s Sgt. Pepper cover parody on the label. Billed as a Belgian-style tripel ale, this “Money” pushes the boundaries in a way that Zappa would certainly appreciate. Despite a rather anemic head, a fragrant bouquet of floral hops, tropical fruits, and spice emanates from this deep amber beer. The taste of burnt candied sugar, ripe apples and bananas, and clove and allspice meld into a tasty cobbler that defines the flavor profile. More spices emerge on the back end, with ginger, pepper, citrus, black tea and a drying alcohol complementing the sweetness. Smooth, sticky, and a bit heavy for the style, Money is as complex as the music that it honors.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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Thomas Hooker Octoberfest

Thomas Hooker Brewing Company

Bloomfield, CT

6.1% ABV

This American version of an Oktoberfest pours a dark copper-brown with a foamy, 2-finger head and plenty of nice lacing. The aroma is of caramel and brown bread crust, wet leaves, and some herbal, earthy hops. Toffee dominates the initial taste, along with some toasted, husky bran, and baked cookie. Grassy hops and some allspice balance the sweetness. The mouthfeel is full and smooth, with a semi-dry finish. This is a bit rich and lacking in crispness for an Oktoberfest, but the texture and flavor are superb for a lager. Very satisfying.

(photo courtesy Thomas Hooker Brewing Company)

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Hugh Malone Ale
Allagash Brewing Company
Portland, ME
8.5% ABV

This Belgian-style IPA from Allagash is named for the Irish immigrant who pioneered hopping techniques in the early twentieth century in Portland. Allagash contributes $1 from the sales of its tribute series to charitable causes, in this case the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association, the country’s oldest and largest state organic farmer coalition. The Hugh Malone pours a glowing, deep orange with a dense, persistent head. Allagash adds Simcoe hops at three points in the brewing process, including the “first wort hopping” developed by the beer’s namesake. The result is a solid citrus oil bitterness from beginning to end, with some piney and herbal notes as well. But this is no hop bomb. Crystal malts contribute to a medium body and subtle caramel sweetness, and Belgian yeast adds a tanginess mid palate. Drying alcohol and a lingering hop bite characterize the dry finish. Heed the recommended serving temperature of 45-50o F, as the character really shines as the beer warms. Allagash’s Rob Tod has balanced beautifully the bready goodness of a Belgian strong pale ale with the crispness of an American IPA. Nicely done!

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Stoudt’s Pils
Stoudt’s Brewing Company
Adamstown, PA
4.7% ABV

A classic German pilsener made by a German family from Pennsylvania, Stoudt’s Pils is as close to Bohemia as you can get in the United States. It pours clear and golden, with a steady stream of bubbles forming a neat cap of clingy head. Spicy, floral Saaz hops greet the nose along with some bready malts. The taste is grainy and delicately sweet, backed with a solid hop bitterness and a dry, grassy, hay-like finish. The frothy mouthfeel is light but not thin. As good a pilsner as you will find, in or out of Germany, and perfect for backyard barbeques and ballgames.
(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Pinkus Organic Munster Alt
Brauerie Pinkus Muller
Munster, GER
5.1% ABV

“Alt” means “old” in German, and this beer is brewed in the old style of an ale, before lagers became the standard in Germany. Like lagers, however, alt biers are cold-conditioned for extended periods to produce a clean, crisp taste. Pinkus’ organic version of an alt is golden in color and rather lighter in body that others of the same style. There’s a hint of apple tartness in the flavor, along with light, grainy malts and citrusy, grassy hops. The peppery spice and tang of yeast suggest a saison, the rustic French-Belgian farmhouse ales made not too far from the Dusseldorf region where alts are most popular. This refreshing ale would make a fine alternative to a wheat beer on a hot summer evening.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Albino Python Lager
Shmaltz Brewing Company
Saratoga Springs, NY
6.0% ABV

Appropriate for the freak show theme, this beer is modeled after a Belgian witbier, but brewed with lager yeast rather than the traditional Belgian ale yeast. The characteristic coriander and orange peel are added, along with some more unusual spices like ginger and fennel. The result is a sweet, mildly spicy brew, with a slick mouthfeel and a clean, refreshing finish. The unfiltered yeast in the bottle contributes to its cloudy, pale-yellow color and almost blue-gray tint. The lively carbonation yields a perfectly big frothy head when poured into a weizen glass. There’s a hint of honey in the pale malt sweetness, along with a bit of citrus twang. The spices meld nicely, with nothing overwhelming the palate. Still, I wouldn’t mind seeing the spices cranked up a notch. The fennel, ginger, and a lemongrass character suggest a pairing with Asian food. The body is pleasantly light but not watery. Overall, a satisfying experiment and definitely ahead of most American pale wheat ales.

(photo courtesy Shmaltz Brewing Co.)

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Double Simcoe
Weyerbacher Brewing Company
Easton, PA
9.0% ABV

Simcoe hops are capable of providing a strong hop aroma and flavor without imparting an astringent bitterness, and this new arrival to Georgia shows it to brilliant effect. I don’t want to give the impression that Double Simcoe is not bitter, however. It is, but in a good way. Huge grapefruit and pine flavors hit first in the taste, but gradually the deep whiskey-like malts and floral honey sweetness assert themselves, resulting in a flavor that is balanced in the way that two linebackers on a teeter totter would be balanced—big on both sides of fulcrum. The hop oils coat the tongue and, along with the warming alcohol, have a slight numbing effect that is soothing but not dulling. The big flavors and boozy aroma encourage a slow, savoring pace. Despite its full body and creamy, sticky mouthfeel, the finish is dry and woody, with a lingering hop bitterness on the sides of the tongue. A true treat for hopheads and an excellent example of what the best American brewers are producing.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Sam Adams Summer Ale
Boston Beer Company
Boston, MA
5.2% ABV

Sam Adam Summer Ale is brewed with lemon and grains of paradise, a “mysterious” spice used in Renaissance brewing. This American-style wheat beer pours a glowing orange-gold with a fluffy head of off-white foam. The mild lemon and yeast in the nose suggest a mellow brew, with only a hint of spice. The taste is tangy and refreshing, smooth and soft on the palate. The wheat lightens the body and adds a faint graininess. With almost no hop bitterness and just a hint of salt, lemon and herbal grassiness, this is a delicate beer that stays out of the way, making it a perfect beer to have with lunch at the beach or after mowing the lawn.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Fire Rock Pale Ale
Kona Brewing Company
Kona, HI (brewed in Portland, OR)
5.8% ABV

Kona’s American pale ale has a lighter body than is suggested by its glowing, copper orange color. The faint aroma of sweet malts and floral, citric hops suggests a British IPA more than an American pale ale. Smooth, sweet malts are up front in the taste, with some appropriate tropical fruit notes and a modest backing of orange citrus. Hop bitterness is mild, but sufficient to leave a satisfyingly crisp finish with a bit of lingering fruitiness. A light to medium body, a pleasantly bright carbonation, and a clean character make it easy drinking and refreshing. Fire Rock would be a perfect accompaniment to summer food like a Caprese sandwich on crusty bread, bean salad, or fruit and cheese.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Highland Shining Rock Lager
Highland Brewing Company
Asheville, NC
6.0% ABV

It’s a little late for this spring seasonal from Highland, but it just seems to be popping up in liquor store coolers. This chestnut-colored bock has an aroma of rich, earthy malt and spice. There’s a load of sweet caramel and toffee flavor up front from the toasted, bready malts. Hop bitterness is low, but distinct woody, spicy and herbal notes add a measure of balance. The finish is a bit doughy and heavy, but there is a smoky, nutty, cinnamon character that gives this beer a complexity that would marry well with traditional German fare like spiced meats, cheeses and pickled vegetables.

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Heavy Seas Small Craft Warning Uber Pils

Clipper City Brewing Company
Baltimore, MD
7.0% ABV

Imperial or strong pilsners are arguably a dubious style, more often than not failing to exhibit the dry, crisp character that defines a pilsner. Clipper City’s Small Craft Warning, part of its Heavy Seas series of high-gravity offerings, hedges its bets a bit by calling itself a pilsner-style bock, which as it turns out is a fairly apt description. Maltier than a traditional pilsner, but with the unmistakable aroma of Saaz hops and a satisfyingly dry finish, this is a very refreshing beer for strong lager. A pleasant spicy, citrus hop aroma greets the nose, but the pilsner and caramel malts assert themselves at the first sip. Hop bitterness is low, but there is a spiciness and a bit of alcohol drying in the finish that keep it balanced. Medium bodied and smooth, the mouthfeel is more akin to a bock than a pilsner, and it could benefit from a bit more carbonation to lighten the body, but overall an interesting addition to a style that is still being refined.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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Brooklyn East India Pale Ale
Brooklyn Brewery
Brooklyn, NY
6.8% ABV

Billed as an English-style IPA, Brooklyn’s offering is more of an homage than a replica of the style to which American brewers have taken such a shine. The 6.8 percent ABV pushes the range of English versions of the style, and the use of Willamette, Centennial, and Amarillo hops from the United States gives it a stronger citric presence than is typical in English examples. Still, Kent Golding and Northdown hops from England are utilized as well, imparting a delicate floral aroma and clean hop taste. East Anglia pale malts add a solid underpinning of classic biscuity malt flavor (in the English sense of a dry cookie more than fluffy, yeasty bread). The medium body and lively carbonation give it a pleasant mouthfeel, and the balance of fruitiness from the malt and moderate hop bitterness in the finish is truly refreshing. A good choice to keep in the fridge this summer for grilling and entertaining.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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Denver Pale Ale
Great Divide Brewing Company
Denver, CO
5.6% ABV

This English-style pale ale is an alternative to the hoppier American versions like Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Nice floral, grassy hop aroma and flavor balanced with a mild toasted malt backbone and a biscuity tang. Hop bitterness is medium and carries through into the crisp, dry finish. The active carbonation contributes to excellent head retention, and the medium body is perfect for quaffing. A satisfying beer to accompany a summer barbeque or tailgate party.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Oskar Blues Gordon

Oskar Blues Grill and Brewery
Lyons, CO
8.7% ABV

Cans are the new bottle in craft brewing. They are easy to transport, cool faster, block out damaging UV rays, and can be taken where glass is verboten. And with improved linings, the metallic taste is no longer a problem. Perfect for the cooler poolside this summer. The label on the can promises “Big, Red, Sticky,” and the beer inside delivers. The can opens without the satisfying “pfft” of typical fizzy, yellow lagers, but a straight pour delivers plenty of clingy, clumpy foam. A deep whiff transports you to a wet Colorado fir forest. There is a hint of brown sugar sweetness, but the hops dominate. The taste is full of piney hop goodness, mixing nicely with some caramel and sugary spice-cake malts and a hint of fleshy fruit like apricot and peach. There is ginger, pepper, and grapefruit bitterness in the long, resiny finish. The mouthfeel is like honeysuckle nectar—sticky, but relatively light for such a big beer. The finish is a bit harsh, but a minor flaw in such a lip-smackingly good brew.

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Southern Hemisphere Harvest Fresh Hop Ale

Sierra Nevada Brewing Company

Chico, CA

6.7% ABV

Not content to limit its fresh hop ale to the fall when hops are harvested in the northern hemisphere, Sierra Nevada traveled to New Zealand, when the hop harvest is in our spring. This American pale ale is hopped with fresh New Zealand hops, quick dried and flown to California within a week of harvest. Isn’t the global economy grand? Orangey amber with a thick rocky head of foam, the Southern Hemisphere looks beautiful, with outstanding lacing that clings in a sheet all the way down the glass. An aroma of musky citrus, pine, tropical fruit, and bready malts greets the nose. The taste is intensely hoppy, with bright resiny pine and grapefruit peel. Bitterness is big upfront, with some biscuity, caramel malts coming through in the middle. The finish is sharp, but juicy, and seems to actually kick the salivary glands into gear, leaving you smacking your tongue. A bit of gingerbread spice comes through as well. Mouthfeel is medium-full with a moderate carbonation. Very smooth and creamy, it becomes more balanced as it warms. You’ll be glad it comes in the big 24-ounce bottle.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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