Omnivore Atlanta

Great Divide Brewing Company
Denver, CO
10.0% ABV

Great Divide celebrates its 15th year in business with a potent Double India Pale Ale aged on French and American oak to “round off the edges.” Indeed, it’s a very drinkable DIPA, with tons of malt complexity and vanilla essence to balance the aggressive hop bill.

Unlike typical over-the-top hop bombs, the initial nose carries significant fruity esters, along with brandy-like alcohol and vanilla. Floral hops, pineapple, and fresh wet pine needles round out the subtle (for a DIPA), inviting aroma. Toffee sweetness hits first in the taste, followed by a solid, resinous smack of hops. The malts, oak and citric bite of hops combine to create a whiskey sour-like quality, right down to the smoky, boozy warmth and cherry sweetness. Oaky dryness and vanilla hold onto the middle, with a pine and grapefruit rind hop bitterness rising in the finish. An alcohol burn lingers in the sinuses on the long fade.

Considering the strong elements contributed by the wood aging, the mouthfeel is somewhat raw and grainy and could be a bit softer and creamier. No doubt some further aging will help with that, as well as mellowing the burn. Medium-full and sticky, this is definitely a sipper, but balanced and enjoyable. I had no problem finishing a 22-oz bomber, leaving me warm and happy.

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Great Divide Belgica

Belgian-style India Pale Ale
Great Divide Brewing Company
Denver, CO
7.2% ABV

Inspired by American experiments with hops, Belgian breweries have been turning out highly hopped versions of thier classic pale ales. U.S. brewers have returned the compliment with homages to Belgian styles. Belgica pours a crystal clear, golden yellow with a modest head that leaves sheets of Belgian lace on the sides of the glass. The aroma is full of sweet clove from the Belgian yeasts and floral hops, along with some melon and sour fruit. Sweet-tart white grape character leads the flavor profile, with biscuity, almost crackery, pilsner malts in the center, and a slowly-building hop bitterness in the finish. The hops are a blend of American and European varieties, but unlike some domestic takes on the style, the American hops are not intrusive. Instead, Great Divide relies on traditional German hop qualities that provide a crisp, dry palate with a hint of lemony tartness and peppery spice. This is not an IPA with some Belgian candi sugar and yeast added to pump up its pedigree, but an authentic Belgian pale ale that is aggressively hopped. Make no mistake, there’s plenty of bitterness to balance the sweetness, but wine drinkers might find this to be a beer that makes them say, “This is beer? I thought I didn’t like beer.” Eminently drinkable, Belgica would pair beautifully with seafood, pungent cheeses, and creamy salads.

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What’s worse than having to work on a Sunday? Having to work on a Sunday while drinking really good beer in someone’s summery back yard with a bunch of homebrew enthusiasts. For this year’s beer issue, I slaved away, drinking beer and hanging out with the guys from the East Atlanta Brewery, as well as homebrewer Abby Jackson and the guys from the Final Gravity homebrew group. I know. It’s a tough life.

Beer Issue ‘09: Homebrew!

Atlanta’s DYI beer community makes a splash

Slide show: Dave Hatker walks us through EAB’s homebrew process

Abby Jackson: Homebrewer

Atlanta homebrew resources: stores to help you get your brew on.

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Larry Bell at his Michigan brewery

The craft beer industry is full of colorful characters from Dogfish Head’s extreme beer advocate Sam Caliagione to Lagunitas’ Zappa fanatic and cannabis apologist Tony Magee. Between those representing the East and West coasts respectively, you’ll find self-described eccentric Larry Bell, founder of Bell’s Brewery of Kalamazoo, MI. From selling homebrew cooked up in a 15-gallon soup kettle, Bell has become a leading brewer in the Midwest, moving into a new facility in 2003 that’s already been expanded twice and now has a capacity of 140,000 barrels. Over 110,000 barrels were brewed last year, making Bell’s the 13th largest craft brewer in the country. Bell’s is now distributed in 17 states, including Georgia, where it’s rolling out this week.

With the tagline “Inspired Brewing,” Bell’s emphasizes its dedication to craft beer excellence. Batch numbers printed on the bottle can be entered on the company’s website to get information on brewing and bottling dates. The brewery turns out 7 year-round beers and 10-12 seasonals, along with one-time releases such as the Batch series of commemorative beers. In the first round of shipments, Georgia will see the Amber Ale, Porter, Pale Ale, Third Coast Old Ale, and Kalamazoo Stout from the year-round stable, along with the wildly popular wheat ale, Oberon, which is the company’s only summer release and accounts for close to half of the brewery’s output. Because of the shortage of particular strains of hops, the Two-Hearted Ale, a brisk, hoppy IPA, will not make it to Georgia until later. “In the summertime we’re so busy brewing Oberon that it’s tough getting to those other specialties. Come September we’ll be able to offer up a little bit larger portfolio,” Bell says. (more…)

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The eco-friendly campus at New Belgium Brewing Company

Fat Tire Amber Ale from New Belgium Brewing Company in Fort Collins, CO is due in stores the first of next week. It will be available in 22-oz. bombers to start, with 6-packs and draft to follow shortly. Fat Tire has myriad fans, and it has propelled the company into the number 3 spot in the nation among craft brewers (behind Boston Beer Company and Sierra Nevada). I find it to be a decent enough beer; it is balanced and has a nutty, toasted malt character that makes it a good choice with food. New Belgium also turns out some other good beers, which will no doubt make their way to Georgia soon (look for the 1554 Belgian Black, Abbey-style Dubbel, Trippel, and if we are lucky, La Folie Flanders Red).

For me, though, the best thing about this company is their commitment to the environment. I don’t think there is another brewery in the world that takes sustainability as seriously as the folks at New Belgium. Their brewery is a model of efficiency. It runs almost entirely on wind power with the remainder from gas generated on- and off-site. The buildings utilize passive solar power and evaporative cooling, and were built using downed timber. The boilers are the most energy-efficient available, and their recycling efforts have reduced landfill diversion to only 15 percent, not including spent grain and yeast, which are also recycled. The company’s employees, who are also its owners, are deeply involved in the effort to reduce waste and save energy, and each receive a bicycle on their 1-year anniversary at the company. The parking lot at the brewery has as many bikes as cars. They also sponsor a number of green-focused events and donate 1% of their revenue to environmental non-profits. That’s commitment I will drink to. For more information on New Belgium’s efforts at environmental stewardship, check out this summary and their 2007 Sustainability Report. (more…)

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French Broad Altbier

French Broad Brewing Company
Asheville, NC
5.5% ABV

Once a rarity, Altbier seems to be coming into its own lately, with the classic German Uerige more widely available and quality American versions coming from Victory, Otter Creek and Southampton. Altbier is a German ale found primarily in the Düsseldorf region. It is fermented at ale temperatures, but cold conditioned like a lager, for a clean, crisp character. Unlike the other German ale style, kölsch, altbiers are malt-forward and slightly sweet, rather than spicy and dry.

French Broad Altbier pours an orangey-gold, with a rocky, off-white head. Damp, earthy aroma and some floral notes in the nose, along with a bit of estery, ripe apple. Toasted Munich malt dominates the flavor, with its distinctive graininess and bready character. Grassy, herbal, tea-like hops provide a subtle counterpoint, but this one is all about the malt. Smooth and soft on the tongue, with a gentle carbonation and easy drinkability. A welcome break from the current hop-bomb trend. Try this with a grilled burger and corn-on-the-cob at your next cookout.

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Check out this great video showcasing America’s craft brewers.

I Am A Craft Brewer from I Am A Craft Brewer on Vimeo.

About the video (via Vimeo):

“I Am A Craft Brewer” is a collaborative video representing the camaraderie, character and integrity of the American Craft Brewing movement. Created by Greg Koch, CEO of the Stone Brewing Co. and Chris & Jared of Redtail Media…and more than 35 amazing craft brewers from all over the country. The video was shown to a packed audience of 1700 craft brewers and industry members at the 2009 Craft Brewers Conference as an introduction to Greg’s Keynote Speech entitled “Be Remarkable: Collaboration Ethics Camaraderie Passion.” As is tradition for the CBC Keynote, a toast to the audience was offered. This time, the beers offered for the toast were all collaboratively brewed craft beers including Isabella Proximus, Collaboration Not Litigation, AleSmith/Mikkeller/Stone Belgian Style Triple, Jolly Pumpkin/Nøgne-Ø/Stone Special Holiday Ale, and 2009 Symposium Ale “Audacity of Hops.”

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May Flowers. The month of May promises to be one of the biggest in recent memory for Georgia beer lovers: Craft Beer Week, two new Terrapin releases, the opening of 5 Seasons Westside, and the Georgia debut of Bell’s and New Belgium. Look for more details here in the coming weeks on all of these events. Then, toward the end of the month, the East Atlanta Beer Festival kicks off the Atlanta festival season. The fest takes place on Sat., May 30, from 1-6 p.m. at the corner of Moreland and Metropolitan avenues in East Atlanta. Over 120 craft beers will be featured and proceeds benefit community projects. Buy your tickets today (Apr. 29) to save $5 and avoid the long lines. They will be $35 at the gate.

French Broad spotted in Atlanta. No, not Carla Bruni. Asheville’s French Broad Brewing Company has begun distribution in the Atlanta area. The small brewery (about 2,500 barrels in 2008) opened in 2001 and has pursued a goal of creating classic European style beers with an Asheville twist. Recently they have been stepping up production, expanding into Virginia, Eastern Tennessee, and now Georgia. “We’re a little stressed here at the brewery right now,” says marketing director Matt Barnao. “We’re on a pace to triple our production from last year.” To keep up with orders, beers are brewed during the day on the company’s 15-barrel system, then the night shift comes in to bottle on a semi-automated bottle filling system. (more…)

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The Perfect Meal?: Mussels and frites with an Oude Geueze at Blega Cafe

While George W. was waging the War on Terror overseas, he failed to notice a foreign invasion right under his nose. The dingy Irish pubs and wood-paneled taverns of D.C. are being replaced by sophisticated Euro-style gastropubs and brasseries serving up mussels and frites with a side of homemade mayo or thin-crust artisan pizzas to pair with Flemish sours and American IPAs.

The District has always had a European feel, thanks to Pierre L’Enfant’s broad, diagonal boulevards and open spaces, and the height restriction on buildings that has shut out the glass and steel towers of the typical American city. But the high cost of living in the city has taken its toll on neighborhood saloons, where working stiffs rubbed elbows with government wonks and power brokers. Suddenly, the upwardly mobile are gaga over rabbit loin roasted in framboise or a terrine of veal cheeks, quail egg, frisee, and truffles, served with a $20 bottle of Cuvée du Keizer Grand Cru.

No less than three of these Belgian brasseries are located in the vicinity of the capitol. In addition, a wide selection of Belgian ales, on draft and in bottles, can be found at any number of slightly less expensive restaurants and bars serving everything from wood-fired pizza to nachos. (more…)

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The original Superbier: Westmalle Tripel

The Belgian-style tripel ale makes a great springtime beer, savored on a breezy patio with your trusty laptop, or paired with fresh spring salads. Spring tends to make me feel a little bit drunk, so I have to be careful of the velvet hammer of the tripel’s strength, typically 8-10%, especially since they are so easy-drinking. The monks of Westmalle Abbey in Malle first to brew the tripel in 1934, dubbing it “Superbier.” The current name refers to the use of three times the malt of a standard abbey-style ale.

Tripels are characterized by a relatively light color, fruity flavors, and a flowery, spicy character being more prominent than hop bitterness. Candi sugar (dextrose) is typically used to increase the alcoholic strength while keeping the body light. Belgian yeast strains contribute to the style’s complex aromas and flavors. Fruity esters of orange, banana and pineapple are commonly present. White pepper and clove spiciness from the yeast is complemented by floral hop aromas. Here are three excellent examples of the style, all widely available, one each from Belgium, Canada, and the United States. (more…)

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Moor Better: Claymore Wee Heavy Scotch Ale

Great Divide Brewing Company
Denver, CO

Named for a famous sword, this beer is a tribute to the “Wee Heavy” ale, the rich, strong version of Scotland’s traditional malt-forward ales. Hops were historically hard to come by in Scotland and were regarded with some disdain since they had to be imported from England. Malted barley, on the other hand, was a staple, so these beers are loaded with cereal goodness.

Great Divide’s version pours a deep mahogany brown with some ruby highlights around the edges. The aroma is peaty and slightly smoky, and leans toward woody, rather than sugary notes. The taste follows suit with deep, charred caramel, mild coffee, and earthy hops. That smoky peat comes through on the back end, suggesting a cozy hearth. A bit of brown sugar sweetness, cocoa powder and nutmeg spice linger on the lips in the semi-sweet finish. Medium-bodied, with some leggy alcohol, Claymore is best enjoyed at cellar temperature like a good Scotch, where the malt can really shine.

Photo by Jeff Holland)

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Terrapin Beer Company doesn’t need much of an excuse to celebrate, but this April is very special for the Athens,GA brewery. It was 7 years ago at the Classic City Brew Fest that Terrapin introduced its Rye Pale Ale, and since that time, its reputation for great beer has continued to grow. In fact, the Brewers Association recently reported that the company’s revenue went up 53% last year. It’s too bad this is not a publicly-traded company because here is a company that is certainly bucking the trends. After much delay, Terrapin finally moved into its own brewery in Athens early last year and hit the ground running, increasing its production by 37%, adding a wheat beer and an India Brown Ale to its year-round portfolio, and launching its Side Project series of limited edition beers. (more…)

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Liquid Candy: Weihenstephaner Vitus

Brauerei Weihenstephan
Freising, GER
7.7% ABV

This weizenbock is new to Georgia, thanks to the dedicated efforts of Beer Advocate and Sandy Springs resident Justin Michels, who rallied like-minded beer lovers to lobby the Georgia distributor of Weihenstephaner beers, Georgia Crown, to add this beer to their portfolio. For Georgia Crown, it was a simple matter of adding Vitus to its order from Total Beverage Solutions, the South Carolina importer that was already bringing the beer into the U.S. Just goes to show what some good old-fashioned agitation can accomplish. Show your appreciation by picking up a few bottles.

Vitus might be described as an imperial version of Weihenstephan’s world-class weissbier, packing more body and more flavor into a fruity, tart and refreshing Bavarian wheat beer. A huge, fluffy head of cotton candy-like foam sits atop the orange-gold beer, rising a full inch above the rim of the glass without falling over, eventually settling to a finger of off-white foam that you could probably use as shaving cream. Beautiful.

The traditional banana and clove aromas from the yeast are off the chain, combining with a distinct lactose note that conjures a banana cream pie from Picadilly. Banana haters need not apply. The initial taste is of sugar cookie and grainy wheat, followed by a Juicy Fruit center of banana, pineapple, and bubble gum. Just when you think you are drinking candy, a solid hit of tangy, slightly lemony yeast and spicy hops cleans up the palate. Coriander, clove, and sage linger in the long, mildly sour finish. As would be expected from a wheat beer, the mouthfeel is creamy, but with a slick almost oily character that is perfectly balanced by the active carbonation that holds that foamy cap all the way down.

Although the flavors beg to be savored, Vitus goes down as smooth as the mellowest hefeweizen. The alcohol is well hidden, with only the sweet slickness hinting at the high gravity. A remarkable beer that really has no equal that I have had. It would pair nicely with any number of foods, from salad to dessert.

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Terrapin Beer Company
Athens, GA
9.8% ABV

Terrapin brewer Spike Buckowski has jumped into the Belgian ale wave with both feet with Volume 5 of the Side Project Series. Monk’s Revenge is described as having the hop profile of a double IPA, with the malt and yeast of a Belgian tripel. Six kinds of malt and six hop varieties, dextrose to replicate the Belgian candi sugar, and a yeast copped from one of the 7 Trappist breweries (Spike is mysteriously vague about which brewery) all contribute to a wonderful complexity in both aroma and flavor.

Floral and spicy hops greet the nose, along with a faint resiny note that clues you to the beer’s American heritage. Sweet, biscuity malt and the unmistakable ripe fruit of Belgian yeast are also evident. The taste starts with the smooth, mild tropical fruit sweetness of pineapple and banana, followed quickly by a tingly hop bite of grapefruit, white pepper, pine, orange, and mint. The sugary base carries warm buzz of kirsch and amaretto into the strong, drying finish. The banana and clove esters of the Belgian yeast become stronger as it warms, as does some solventy alcohol.

The balance here is fantastic, with all of the malty, fruity, hoppy, and tangy notes getting their chance to shine, but the overall effect seems a bit raw. The bottle-conditioned beer has a dullish carbonation that might lively up itself with a bit more time, and the hot alcohol suggest that this would be a good candidate for cellaring, although the hopheads might object that the fresh hop aromas and flavors would suffer. I’d have a couple fresh, then put a couple away; that way, you get the best of both worlds.

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War documentaries are perhaps best made by outsiders who are able to show the nobility and suffering on both sides of the conflict. Anat Baron brings such neutrality to Beer Wars: Brewed in America, a documentary film that explores the goings-on behind the scenes of the world’s largest and smallest breweries as they struggle to win the minds and palates of America’s 115 million beer drinkers. Anat is allergic to alcohol, so she’s never tasted the beers that are at the center of the conflict.

“I think that [not drinking] has helped me in making the film because I don’t cast judgment over one or the other group,” Baron says. “I am certainly the last person to tell you what to drink or what not to drink, but beyond that, the actual war does exist in the business of beer, and that is more what the film is focused on; it is far less about the two different types of consumers, and whether Bud drinkers think beer geeks are elitist.”

Baron’s 90-minute film will air simultaneously in 440 theaters across the nation on April 16 and will be followed by a 30-minute live discussion with a panel of brewers and beer experts hosted by know-it-all pundit Ben Stein. The panel will be answering questions generated in advance from the live audience. “They have a digital network in the theaters that can accept satellite feed,” Baron says. “It’s just a really cool idea, I think, that all these people across America are going to be watching something happen simultaneously. I wanted to get people talking, and this seemed like a better way to do that than the traditional way of rolling out a few theaters at a time.” (more…)

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Take the local: Brooklyn Local 2

Brooklyn Brewery
Brooklyn, NY
9% ABV

This Belgian-style strong dark ale joins the Local 1, a strong saison, in Brooklyn’s regular lineup. This is good news, indeed, as brewer Garrett Oliver is building a nice portfolio of Belgian-inspired ales. Local 2 is brewed with honey and citrus peel and is refermented in a beautiful imbossed 750-ml cork-and-cage bottle. The Diet Coke-brown color and equally cola-like, quickly-dissipating head leave the impression of a fizzy dark lager, but appearances can be deceiving. There’s plenty of heft to this baby. Burnt sugar, roasty malt, and brown bread yeastiness dominate the aroma, with a hint of herbal spice and nose-tingling alcohol in the background. These flavors carry over to the taste, which is sweet, and slightly roasted, with notes of mild coffee, toffee, chocolate, cherry, raisin, and licorice candy. Herbal hops, the tang of Belgian yeast, and the drying alcohol complement the sweet malts and honey, which only seems evident in the slick, smooth mouthfeel. The body is a bit thinner than might be expected from strong dark ale, but the bright carbonation and clean, dry character are plenty satsifying, as is the flush of alcohol that warms all the way down. A fantastic interpretation of a Belgian ale that should satisfy both purists and extreme beer lovers.

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Green beer is for tourists and frat boys. Please show some respect; after all this is a religious holiday. Here’s a list of places to enjoy some authentic Irish spirit this St. Patrick’s Day, along with beer brewed with the same love that the Irish pour into every thing they do.

In Decatur you can bar hop between festivities at several local watering holes. The Grange Public House, which took over the location of The Angel on West Ponce, is run by the Irish ex-pat Comer family and has a homey, authentic vibe. The beer selection is above average and the menu has plenty of Irish favorites. On Tuesday they will have live music starting at 3 p.m., as well as Irish dancers at 8 p.m. The Guinness girls will be on hand starting at 8:30 with Guinness giveways. The Brick Store Pub will have the usual properly poured pints of Guinness Stout, live Irish music, and traditional Irish dishes like corned beef and cabbage, lamb stew and shepherd’s pie. Festivities begin at 1 p.m. Finally, mosey down the street to Twain’s where brewer Jordan Fleetwood will be serving a cask of cream stout aged on Jameson-soaked oak chips. The folks at Twain’s know their corned beef (it’s the home of the Atlanta chapter of the New York Corned Beef Society after all), so if you haven’t had your fill, Twain’s will also be serving corned beef and cabbage. (more…)

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Rx for Beer Blahs: Mama

Take two and call me in the morning

Oskar Blues Brewery, makers of Dale’s Pale Ale and Ten Fidy Imperial Stout, have released a Czech-style pilsner called Mama’s Little Yella Pils that should prove popular this summer. The Lyons, Colorado-based Oskar Blues has made a name for itself as one of the first craft breweries to sell their beer in cans rather than bottles. Cans are easily recyclable, more easily handled, require less energy to produce, and can be taken many places where glass bottles are not allowed, such as the park, the beach, or the pool.

Mama’s Little Yella Pils is modeled after the classic pilsner from the Czechoslovakian region of Pilsen that inspired the original Budweiser. A generous amount of pale malts and German specialty malts give this interpretation a firm, grainy body, while the Saaz hops provide a fresh, floral aroma and a crisp, dry finish. The modest 5.3% ABV keeps it in the realm of an everyday quaffer. Yella Pils is available now in 6-packs of bright yellow cans. Unfortunately, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau rejected their tagline on the can, “Take two and call me in the morning.” Don’t ask me why.

Firkin Saturdays at the Brick Store Pub

The Brick Store Pub will be tapping a fresh cask of real ale every Saturday at noon, just in time for sidewalk season. The first offering this past Saturday was the Russian Imperial Stout from Thornbridge Hall Country House Brewing Company, an amazingly rich, smoky stout with a dark-fruit tang and notes of chickory and bittersweet chocolate. If you weren’t there, you missed it, since the firkins only last a couple of days and this was the only one shipped to Georgia. Coming soon will be Gwatkins Yarlington Mill Cider, the CAMRA Gold Medal Champion Cider of Great Britain in 2002. (more…)

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Toasty: Weyerbacher Fireside Ale

Weyerbacher Brewing Company
Easton, PA
7.5% ABV

It will probably soon be back up to a balmy 65 degrees, but I had to pick up this smoked ale for the snowy weekend. Weyerbacher’s Dan Weirback has shown great respect for malts while many of his craft beer compatriots in the United States have been pushing International Bittering Units to the max with high-alpha American hop varieties. Fireside Ale has the unmistakable aroma of toasted malts and a hint of smokiness that is comforting and homey. Woody malts and a caramelly fire-toasted marshmallow dominate the malt profile, with a semi-sweet center of maple, cocoa, and nut contributing to the campfire vibe. Clove-like spice, tingly alcohol, and flash of citric and piney hops gently balance the malts. The finish is somewhat dull and undercarbonated, but the silky smooth body makes for pleasant sipping. Enjoy it in front of your fake fireplace.

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No Green Beer: The Distillery in Savannah, GA

In less than two weeks an estimated 400,000 revelers will descend on Savannah for the second largest St. Patrick’s Day celebration in the United States. There will be parades, Irish music, and green beer, but it will be hard to find a Guinness stout, much less a top-notch American craft beer. The proprietors of The Distillery, which opened in November across from the Savannah Visitors’ Center aim to change that.

Michael Volen purchased the building that houses the Distillery in 2004, but was unable to find a satisfactory tenant until his son Ben suggested a bar dedicated to craft beer. Ben Volen got bitten by the craft beer bug while a student at Pace University in Westchester County, New York, where he drank the local craft beers from Captain Lawrence Brewing Company in Pleasantville. After finding that the “craft beer scene was non-existant in Savannah,” he convinced his father, a teetotaler, that a first-class taproom could succeeded there. Ben and his friend Chris Hubbard, who serves as the reaturant’s general manager, came down to Savannah last summer and began renovating the century-old building that was once home to the Louisville Distilling Company, named for the Louisville road that begins across from the site. (more…)

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A trusty old dog: Smuttynose Old Brown Dog Ale

Smuttynose Brewing Company
Portsmouth, NH
5.7% ABV

Dogs seem to be a frequent inspiration for brown ales, as evidenced by Abita Turbodog, Avery Ellie’s Brown Ale, and the new-to-Georgia Smuttynose Old Brown Dog Ale. This beer pours a clear, glowing chestnut that is just about the same color as Olive (R.I.P.), the Smuttynose mascot that graces the label. A volumionous, rocky head sits atop the body and pops and crackles down to a thin cap, leaving some fine lacing. A moderately sweet, toasted malt aroma fairly explodes from the glass, suggesting brown bread crust with an earthy spice note. There are some fruity notes of apple skins and orange, as well. The toasted bread continues in the flavor profile, along with soft crystal malts, steeped grains and a faint nutiness. A flash of juicy sweetness in the center hints of maple syrup, cocoa and toffee. The hops are subdued and vaguely tea-like, with a bit of steely tang of alcohol and a chocolately orange in the clean, dry finish. Round and smooth, with a decent heft to the body, this is a delicious take on an English brown ale, wth its emphasis on malt complexity. A perfect accompaniment to beef or sharp cheese.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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Recession busters: Good beers at a good price

We’re all watching our pennies these days, but if you’re like me, you’ve come too far in your beer taste to go back to The Beast. But that doesn’t mean you can’t save a little coin on your beer purchases and still enjoy a well-crafted brew.

The price of all beer has gone up, so there is only so much you can save without joining the Carrie Nation. The sooner you accept that fact, the sooner you can be enjoying a beer. And remember that a dollar or two savings on a 12-pack of Busch Light evaporates faster than you think – you’ll find yourself going through 4 or 5 in a night vs. 2 or 3 of a more flavorful beer.

Here are a few things I picked up at Tower and Green’s recently that were relative bargains. I tried to balance price and overall enjoyment. All prices are for a 6-pack of 12-oz. bottles except as indicated. (more…)

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Three-way, anyone? Stone, Jolly Pumpkin, and Nogne O Special Holiday Ale

Stone Brewing Company
Escondido, CA
9.0% ABV

Once again I am late for the party. I just picked up this holiday collaboration, and I wish I had done so earlier because this one would have been great with the Christmas goose (if I had had a Christmas goose). No worries; this wassail-like ale with a hearty ABV and a complex laundry list of additions should age wonderfully for next year. If you see it around, pick up a few and sock some away to break out at the end of the year. There are three different bottles, each with a note from one of the three brewers.

Mitch Steele of Stone, Kjetil Jikiun of Norway’s Nøgne Ø, and Ron Jefferies of Jolly Pumpkin in Michigan got together on this one, and each brought a little something to the pot–juniper berries from Norway (actually sourced from Italy), chestnuts from Michigan, and sage from Southern California. The enticingly spicy aroma will awaken holiday memories of evergreen, berries, and nutmeg, and the taste has a noticable earthy nuttiness. Dry, woody malts and a faint mincemeat-like sweetness linger under the tang of rye malt and caraway seeds. Cocoa and chickory in the center carry over into a long, dry, herbal finish of anise and cranberry. The body is firm and smooth, but not particularly creamy, with a warm alcohol, bordering on hot. The herbal flavors are tea-like, and I could see drinking this warm like a toddy to soothe flu symptoms (disclaimer: I am not a doctor). Complex and unique, if a bit raw, I am looking forward to trying it with a bit more age on it.

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On Sun. Feb. 22, Athens will host its 16th Annual A Taste of Athens while celebrating the 25th Anniversary of Community Connection—the beneficiary of the event.

From 5-8 p.m. at the Classic Center (300 N. Thomas St.) more than 50 local restaurants will provide wine and beer tasting, food and a silent auction. There will also be a birthday cake competition showcasing local restaurants and bakeries.

General Admission is $45 and VIP access costs $75. That gets you access to the VIP Taste Garden, early entrance, special gifts and more. Proceeds benefit the Community Connection. It is an organization that links those in need of social services and the services they need.

For more information visit the Taste of Athens or call 706-208-0900. Also check out Community Connection for details on the organization.

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Allagash Dubbel Reserve

Allagash Brewing
Portland, ME
7.0% ABV

Introduced to Georgia a little over a year ago, Allagash produces some of the best American examples of Belgian-style beers around. Their dubbel exhibits the rich caramel malt and yeasty tang of a traditional dubbel (Corsendonk and Chimay Red are probably the best known examples) with more of an herbal bite. It pours a deep chestnut brown with a nutty aroma, a hint of spice and some sweet maple notes. The taste is nicely balanced right from the start, with cola-like brown sugar sweetness, spicy bitterness, and tangy yeast all pushing through. A toffee and cocoa center tamps down the fruity esters that are more typical in a dubbel, but there are definite notes of raisin and red apple. Tart apple and citrus emerge middle to end, with a bracing herbal hop bitterness of anise and earth in the lingering dry finish. The mouthfeel is a bit thin for the style, but is consistent and clean, with a blooming carbonation. The well-integrated sweet and herbal flavors would be an excellent foil to sweet grilled meats or smoky cheeses.

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