Omnivore Atlanta

Light Beer: Stone Levitation Ale

It’s that time of year again, where Bud Light Lime pulls its “seasons change, tastes don’t”ads and starts running its “Summer. Not just a season, but a taste” ads. Well, I’ve tasted summer and it is way better than Bud Light Lime. Commercials like these give the impression that summer beers have to taste like Gatorade so as not to interfere with your pickup game of football with the Girls of the Southeast Conference.

Certainly, summer calls for beer with a lighter body, a drier finish, moderate alcohol, and perhaps a bit of citric tartness. Sweet, thick, roasty, and potent beers do lose some of their appeal in hot weather. Still, the desired characteristics can be achieved without sucking out all the flavor. Additions of specialty malts, spices, and fruit can all make a beer more palatable on a hot day. More importantly perhaps, the right hops can add citrus, spice, and floral aromas and flavors, along with quenching bitterness. (more…)

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Moinette from Brasserie Dupont

Brasserie Dupont
Tourpes, BEL
8.5% ABV

This Belgian strong pale ale differs from others in the style in that it is dry and effervescent like a saison, but has a higher alcohol content than is typical for that style. Upon popping the cap an immediate cascade of bubbles races to the top, pushing a frothy head out of the bottle before it is even poured. Open it over the sink to avoid spillage. After the initial gush, it pours a glowing yellow-gold, with a modest one-finger head of pillowy foam atop that leaves sheets of Belgian lace on the sides of the glass.

A heady aroma of yeasty bread, white pepper, and orchard fruit greets the nose, with a bit of estery alcohol and citric tang. The taste is dominated by powdery pale malts, tart yeast, and earthy, woody spices. The crisp, dry mouthfeel is remarkably refined, with a tannic bite of white grape skins. A clean finish and champagne-like effervesence will appeal to wine drinkers.

This a sophisticated beer with amazing attenuation for such a strong ale. Refreshing and complex, it can be enjoyed with summer salads, seafood, cheese, or fruit. At $4-5 a bottle, it is an indulgence, but one you won’t regret.

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