Omnivore Atlanta

There is something so deliciously primal about tearing a hunk of chicken off the bone with your bare hands, folding it into a warm tortilla with a spoonful of salsa and devouring it. What can I say? This Mexicana loves her chicken, which means I was delighted to discover El Pollo Regio (5499 Buford Highway, Doraville. 770-458-9663; 10471 Alpharetta Street, Roswell. 770-552-5466. www.elpolloregio.com).

Naturally, the “Pollos asados al carbon” (char-grilled chicken) is the thing to order. This bird soars high above the other chicken spots lining the highway because of its lip-smacking marinade. The most information I could get is that they use Achiote paste, an earthy and thick red paste made from ground annatto seeds that is normally mixed with an acid like citrus or vinegar. The juiciness of the chicken and flavor imparted by the flames charring the marinade make for, as my friend put it, “some badass chicken.”

An order of the whole chicken ($12.99) comes with a container of rice flavored with tomato broth, a bowl of smoky “Charro” pinto beans, a piquant salsa verde creamy with avocado, large chunks of sticky sweet charred onions, a fresh salsa roja, a couple of limes and a stack of locally made and all-natural El Milagro tortillas. If you don’t have the time to sit down and contend with a bone-in chicken meal, the “Taco Regio” ($4.00) is a great choice. The oversized tortilla is coated with oil and grilled to make it pliable, then filled with an abundance of finely minced grilled chicken, a layer of crema Mexicana (Mexican sour cream) and guacamole. Add a charred jalapeno, some salsa and a squirt of lime and you’ve got a one-handed meal guaranteed to satisfy.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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The Cafe At Pharr (316 Pharr Road. 404-238-9288, and other metro Atlanta locations) was started in back 1992 by Shirley and Mike Liu, who retired in 1998 and handed the business over to their enthusiastic son, Johnny. You can’t miss him when you arrive; just look for the guy with the permanent smile on his face.

What sets this tiny lunch spot apart is its simplicity, consistency and commitment to healthy eating. Almost everything on the menu is made from scratch daily and surprisingly low in fat. The Café bakes its own bread every morning and uses no preservatives. Ask any regular and they’ll tell you they come for the assortment of chicken salads, available as a sandwich ($7.50) on your choice of white, wheat, multigrain, baguette and croissant or as a salad plate ($9) with romaine lettuce, shredded carrots, sliced tomatoes, two pieces of soft baguette and the café’s special ginger dressing that has no oil or fat. Both the sandwich and the salad plate come with a handful of chilled seedless red grapes and the café’s signature and strangely addictive “Yogurt rolls,” a fluke turned staple using leftover croissant scraps that are baked off, filled with a semi-sweet German gelatin mixed with yogurt and sliced.

One of the most popular salads is the celery chicken, a minimalist approach to chicken salad with chicken, celery, spices and mayo. I always go for the curry chicken salad made with a secret curry sauce, a touch of mayo and chopped chicken. The celery-laced tuna salad is another simply made favorite that actually tastes like old-fashioned tuna salad—not an abundance of overcomplicated ingredients for show. Liu says he only adds enough to hold the base together because health is paramount. One diner actually lost 40 pounds by eating every meal at the Café except for breakfast on what they called the “Café Pharr diet.” Who needs Subway?

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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HUNGRY LIKE THE WOLF: Presto's meaty Bandeja Paisa

One of the best ways to get to know a country is through its cuisine. The ingredients, cooking methods, serving vessels and customs provide great insight into a country’s soul. Travel, unfortunately, necessitates money and time — something most of us have precious little of these days. That doesn’t mean exploration is out of the question, however. Feel like tasting Colombia? Take a “trip” there via Presto Latin Restaurant (1392-B Roswell Road, Marietta, 770-973-2196, www.prestorestaurant.com).

The breadth of Presto’s menu is impressive and the staff is always willing to help you you navigate the offerings despite its sometimes limited English. (more…)

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MOO-CHOS FOR LESS: The $18 Rivieria burger

There’s no debating the burger trend sweeping the country. One could say the economy’s dive has stimulated our craving for nostalgic — and cheap — foods. Whatever the case, Americans are burger crazy and Atlanta chefs are cashing in.

Arnaud Berthelier, executive chef at the Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton in Buckhead (3434 Peachtree Road, 404-237-2700. www.ritzcarlton.com), is one of the newest players on the burger scene. The Dining Room has long been a paragon of excellence, but who can actually afford the extravagance these days? Berthelier has debuted a special burger menu with optional beer pairings by sommelier Robert Evans and manager Claude Guillaume for the Lobby Lounge, available daily from 11 a.m. to midnight. So you can get a piece of the action for a relatively cheap price, considering the Dining Room’s tasting menu starts at $90 per person.

Burgers are served on buttery brioche buns and all — minus the sliced duck confit burger — are made with Strube Ranch American Kobe beef custom-ground to the chef’s specifications. Each burger, except for the Cadillac, comes with golden waffle-cut fries.

Prices start at $16 for the Classic, a monstrous hand-formed patty of juicy beef topped with gooey and earthy Vermont cheddar, crunchy slices of Applewood bacon, and mayo with a hint of sherry. The Rivieria ($18) is just as hearty as its mates, but lighter in impact thanks to the peppery arugula, tangy tomato confit, mozzarella and Parmesan. If you do decide to splurge, there’s the $65 Deluxe, made with seared foie gras, sliced truffle, aged Comté, bibb lettuce and merlot sauce.

The only downside to the burgers is their presentation. Each creation is placed in a narrow paper-lined poplar box that, while slick, makes the eating experience cumbersome. It can be difficult to extract the burger with all of its components intact, but the flavor is well worth the work.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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PIE TASTERS: The Grande Max

Returning holiday gifts at the mall is my own version of hell. But there I was at Lenox and, to make matters worse, my stomach was violently growling. The food court wasn’t an option, so I texted my friends for ideas. One person reminded me Pizzeria Venti (2770 Lenox Road. 404-228-2013. www.pizzeriaventi.com) had recently opened down the road.

The restaurant’s a franchise, with locations scattered throughout the country. The staff here was genuinely enthusiastic about the menu and the food coming out of the kitchen looked tasty. Pizzeria Venti’s specialty is pizza al taglio, roughly translated to “pizza by the cut.” The handmade pizza ($3-$4.50/slice and $15-$22.50/pan) is cut into squares, heated in a special oven and served on a nifty metal dish. The sauce didn’t taste overly processed and the cheese had a nice roundness to it, but I just couldn’t get past the Pizza Hut-like thick crust. The Timpanini ($6.50), however, showed promise. It resembled a round, deflated calzone and came with a side of marinara for dipping. The pillowy crust was slightly sweet and the provolone, mozzarella, pecorino and herbs filling was creamy, yet light.

Lasagna al forno ($7.75) — which a staff member couldn’t stop raving about — had the perfect amount of cheese and a tasty meat sauce. My favorite item was a side of tender and well-seasoned meatballs ($4 for three). Bocce Balls ($7 for three) are a fun and decadent take on the same meatballs: They’re wrapped in pizza dough with marinara and cheese and baked until the crust is golden brown. My one bite of Dutch fudge cookies and cream gelato from the large assortment showed promise; it was thick, creamy and without one ice crystal to be found.

In short, the restaurant’s no culinary revelation, but it’s a great option for harried folks looking for a hearty bite at a good price.

(Photo by Joeff Davis)

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At first glance, the Westside Garden Market (1954 Howell Mill Road. 404-609-9666. www.westsidegardenmarket.com) may seem a little bare bones. But don’t let that deter you. Owner Majid Elmaliki has amassed a treasure trove of local artisanal products, imported gourmet goods and a wide variety of certified organic produce. Although Atlanta’s Westside already has its share of wonderful gourmet specialty stores, this new locale is sure to become a popular option for its extremely reasonable prices and shopper friendly hours.

Elmaliki’s impressive selection reads like a who’s who of local producers. Look for milk jugs from Sparkman’s, bags of granola and freshly baked bread from Magnolia Bread Company, granola and energy bar bites from Pure Bliss Organics, creative “jams of love” from Emily G’s, biscotti made by Allegro Restaurant, locally-roasted Dancing Goats coffee, cheeses from Sweet Grass Dairy, the insanely good gluten-free and vegan “Coconut drops” by American Gra-Frutti, amazing Indian spice blends from Modern Day Masala and much, much more. Imported items—such as cans of San Marzano tomatoes, large bags of Italian pasta, high-quality olive oils and balsamic vinegars, tins of Moroccan saffron sold by the ounce and Tunisian tomato paste—are indispensable for your pantry and affordable to boot.

The market will debut a lunch menu in mid-January featuring a handful of dishes inspired by Elmaliki’s native country, Morocco. Look for charbroiled meats—such as kofte kebabs (seasoned ground beef) made with grass-fed beef from Harris Ranch Beef Company (also sold in the market), Halal lamb chops from New Zealand and Australia and chicken kabobs marinated in Moroccan saffron and olive oil—served with Moroccan couscous and a dip made with organic yogurt with chopped cucumbers. Other items like freshly made hummus and eggplant pureed with garlic and olive oil will also be available as menu items or packaged in the refrigerated case.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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Mediterraneans know how to live the good life. Everything is done at a pace that welcomes and relaxes. And that’s why I adore Café Agora (262 East Paces Ferry Road. 404-949-0900. www.cafeagora.com). No matter how much you have ordered, congenial owner Al Ozelci will insist you sit at the counter and feed you little bites of this and that until your food is ready. He says his hospitality is for “feedback,” but it’s really just his way.

Agora’s gyros are serious contenders for best in Atlanta. The aromatic mix of marinated and spit-roasted beef and lamb is cut into perfectly sized slices, nestled into seasoned shredded lettuce, drizzled with tangy tzatziki sauce and wrapped in dense pita bread charred and puffed from a short spell on the grill ($7.01). If the other meat choices are too tempting to bare, go for the mixed grill ($14.95)—an assortment of gyro meat, charbroiled chicken, kofta kabob (broiled seasoned ground lamb with Turkish spices & herbs), lamb shish kabob (grilled marinated and grilled lamb) and adana kabob (seasoned and grilled ground lamb) set atop basmati rice and served with a house salad and that delicious pita.

While Café Agora is a carnivore’s paradise, the salads and vegetarian appetizers are uniformly superb. Your best bet is to grab the “Mixed Maza Platter,” ($7.99) which comes with of variety of appetizers including smoky baba ghanoush, creamy hummus, chunks of grilled eggplant and a salad made with shredded carrots, creamy yogurt and bright notes of dill.

A final word of advice: resisting the Ozelci’s humorously persistent insistence that you have one of his filo-based pastries dripping in honey and crumbled pistachios is futile.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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You may recognize Kristin Hard’s name from her K Chocolat line of handcrafted artisanal chocolates with holistic claims. Until recently, the chocolates were only available at select locations, but her new Inman Park store, Cacao Laboratoire du Chocolat and Boutique (312-C North Highland Avenue. 404-221-2626. www.cacaoatlanta.com), grants fans more accessibility. The boutique is minimalist but luxurious thanks to feminine touches such as an opulent glass chandelier wrapped in a fabric shade and elegant packaging imprinted with silver wings.

Hard’s products showcase a mash-up of her traditional French training, premium ingredients—sustainable and local when possible—and creative flavor infusions. The chocolatier obviously favors dark chocolate (which is purportedly healthier), since every item is made with an intense rendition of the stuff. Truffle names such as “Protect” aren’t cheap marketing tactics. Hard deeply believes in the health benefits of her wares – she suggests the chamomile in the “Inner Calm” to help a nasty cold ($2.25/piece). Peppermint patties are offered in a metallic wrapper ($3) or a chewier lollipop version dotted with 24-karat gold dust and silver leaf ($3). The Aztec Aphrodisia Sipping Chocolate is drawing praise for its depth of flavor and slight piquancy from the secret blend of chiles and spices. Hard tops it with a homemade marshmallow and serves it in a vintage silver cup on a silver tray. Fruit draped in chocolate—such as frozen bananas encrusted with cacao nibs ($4.50) and dried pear slices ($6.50)—show chocolate’s ability to elevate the humblest of ingredients.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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NOT A MOMENT TOO SOON: Korean Soon Tofu stew

I must have been Korean in a past life. I crave some form of the cuisine daily. My most recent discovery, Jang Su Jang (3645 Satellite Blvd., Duluth, 678-475-9170), has become a fast favorite.

The restaurant advertises Korean barbecue and tofu on its sign (the rest is in Korean). Both are good, but the tofu makes this spot worth the trek. More specifically, the Soon Tofu dishes, a bubbling tofu stew served in cast-iron bowls alongside a bowl of rice and the customary banchan (assorted side dishes). The beef and kimchee ($8.45) heartily mixes spicy broth with large chunks of fresh, silken tofu, green onion and other ingredients. You are given a raw egg that you crack into the bowl and stir to cook; it adds richness and body to the dish, which you then ladle over the rice. (more…)

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Beyond the iron bar windows and stark exterior of the Busy Bee Cafe (810 Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, 404-525-9212. www.thebusybeecafe.com), you’ll find an exceedingly warm room buzzing with a diverse mix of families, college students and dapper gents chatting up the no-nonsense staff.

Continue reading Cheap Eats.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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The sweet aroma of curry, upbeat island music and smiling staff greet you as you walk into the little house that is Tassa Roti Shop (224 Powers Ferry Road, Marietta, 404-977-3163, www.tassarotishop.com). The eatery has made a name for itself among homesick expatriates and adventurous eaters as one of the best places to go for the uniquely spiced cuisine of Trinidad and Tobago (also known as TnT), a Caribbean republic comprised of 23 islands.

Continue reading Cheap Eats.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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Mounds of crumpled paper napkins, sauce-stained chins and finger licking are an entrance fee most hardcore grubbers gladly pay for good wings. If the getting’s good, people will drive miles for chicken wings, but you don’t have to go far if you know where to look. The South is littered with freestanding wing shacks offering stellar wings that rival the top-notch restaurant versions.

Continue reading Cheap Eats.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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We were sad to see Kitchen Witch depart on her broom last week. The writer, Kim O’Donnel, has left us to devote more time to her new blog on RealSimple.com. You can check out her blog here.

We decided to take the opportunity to switch up the section a little, and in tomorrow’s paper you will see a couple of new features.

Cheap Eats will now share a page with Mouthful, a roundup of places to find a particular food around town. Those of you who have been reading the section for a while may remember this feature from a few years back. We’ll also be debuting a short bar review titled Liquid Diet. We hope to give you a feel for some of the hot new bars and old favorites around town.

I’m also extremely excited to announce that Jennifer Zyman, aka the Blissful Glutton, will be contributing frequently to the section starting in tomorrow’s issue. Jennifer has a wealth of knowledge regarding Atlanta’s dining scene, its ethnic food in particular, and we are incredibly happy to have her as a contributer. Check out her Cheap Eats tomorrow about Supermarket Chicago on Buford Highway and her Mouthful on NY-style pizza.

I’d love to hear your feedback on the new features, suggestions for places to cover, or comments about anything in the Food & Drink section. Please feel free to email me at besha.rodell@creativeloafing.com.

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Eating cheap and well is not difficult in our city. Here are some recent spots I’ve hit. Some pictures are better than others, but you’ll get a reasonable impression.

First up is Via Elisa (1750 Howell Mill Road, 404-605-0668), which sells the best pasta in our city. You can buy it directly from Elisa Gambino’s shop or at Whole Foods — or you can go to restaurants like Shaun’s to taste it. Although you can’t eat her pasta on the premises, Elisa (shown here) is now selling panini at lunchtime, but call ahead to make sure she hasn’t run out.

There is also a counter of excellent cheeses in the shop, along with Elisa’s sauces and various gourmet items. Do not leave without some ravioli.

I have never been to Nuevo Laredo Cantina (1495 Chattahoochee Ave., 404-352-9009) when I didn’t have to wait for a table. The wildly popular spot, decorated with enough kitsch to stock the inventory of a Tijuana souvenir shop, serves fantastic Mexican/border cuisine.

I lunched there recently with my friend Gregg, who ordered lobster tacos, while I feasted on the chicken mole, the city’s best. Here’s a picture of the bar. The place was so crowded I couldn’t get a good shot inside the main dining room. Even Our Lady of Guadalupe would not answer my prayers for a decent camera angle.

A favorite dirt-cheap restaurant is Eats (600 Ponce de Leon Ave.,404-888-9149). There are two features here — pasta and chicken. (The pasta bar is shown here.)

My favorite, though, is the jerk chicken with collards and corn on the cob. The lima beans aren’t bad, either. If the jerk seasonings are too much for your delicate mouth, you can order the chicken with lemon-pepper seasonings.

Finally, there’s Zocalo (465 Boulevard, 404-635-9930). Although there are full-service restaurants of the same name in Midtown and Decatur, the Grant Park location is a taqueria. In this (backlit) picture, you see the al pastor rotisserie and you should definitely order at least a taco made with the succulent pork flavored with pineapple and various spices.

I usually order “la gringa,” al pastor meat between two flour tortillas, almost like a quesadilla. My favorite taco is the one made with strips of chile relleno.

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