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Burgers: a tool of culinary education?

Monday, November 16th, 2009

I had my fifth hamburger meal in a row tonight and I’m feeling pretty overwhelmed. The flavors, with a few exceptions, all kind of run together in my memory. But that’s cool, because I’m educating my palate, right? Check out this interview with Richard Blais of Flip on BurgerBusiness.com. I especially liked this question and answer:

By offering so many nontraditional burgers, do you see yourself educating the tastebuds of burger lovers?

Looking at the future, I like to think I’m going to have a lot of restaurants that aren’t burgercentric, so I look at Flip as a sort of training ground for a lot of palates. Sort of disguised under this iconic All-American ingredient, the burger, it is a way to get young people to experience lamb or something else they’ve never had before. But they’re much more receptive to it because it’s a burger.

If I have two teens out on a Friday night date and they decide to order the lamb burger, I’m building clientele for the future. And they’re building their palates.

I don’t feel like what we do is that creative. We just try to look at things a little differently.

Mouthful: Steak tartare

Saturday, August 15th, 2009

CRAFTBAR: If justifying the cost of dining at the upper level of this two-story New York transplant is downright ridiculous in your book, the restaurant on the lower level has prices that are relatively cheaper for dishes that — for the most part — are just as exceptional. Chef Adam Evans finely minces a mix of grass-fed/grain-fed Harris Ranch tenderloin and sirloin before seasoning it with chives, Dijon mustard, minced shallot, lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil and a drop of Worcestershire sauce. The three-ounce portion is served in a tiny, round Staub cast-iron pot, topped with a sunshine yellow raw quail egg and a mound of deep golden gaufrette potatoes fried in peanut oil and seasoned with an in-house BBQ seasoning mix. 3376 Peachtree Road. 404-995-7580. www.craftrestaurant.com.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

Review: Flip Burger Boutique

Monday, January 19th, 2009

BUN IN THE OVEN: Shrimp burger with Nutella shake and fried rutabegas

At a time when restaurants are struggling, when many people’s dining budgets are severely curtailed, it’s quite a feat to be the guy who’s drawing a two-hour wait on a Monday night.

That guy is Richard Blais, molecular gastronomist, reality TV star, inventor of the foie gras milkshake, and now, purveyor of hamburgers so pedigreed they require a “boutique” to sell them.

Flip Burger Boutique is Blais’ first project since leaving Tom Catherall’s Home, where he stopped by for a while after almost winning Bravo’s “Top Chef.” There’s a vast difference between Home’s forced nature and boring Buckhead sensibility and Flip’s freewheeling nuttiness. Located on a congested strip of Howell Mill Road between tire shops and used car lots, Flip’s clean modern lines and playful aesthetic are apparent before you even turn into the parking lot. Once inside, it’s obvious that fun is the objective. (more…)