Omnivore Atlanta

It’s not really even an office. There’s a computer, yes. A swivel chair, sure. But the wall is adorned with clipboards, not university degrees. The desk is littered with small piles of cash and a hundred receipts, not ornate paper weights. The three guys hovering over your shoulder, with their full sleeve tattoos, sporting the delicious stench of garlic and duck fat, aren’t exactly corporate material either. And it’s not office hours. It’s midnight. Honestly, it’s amazing this tiny computer we’re all glaring at hasn’t crashed. Because I’ve hit refresh every five seconds over the last hour.

These are the moments of our lives… At least our restaurant lives.

From the moment a restaurant opens it’s doors, we know it’s coming. The review. That stretch of a few fortnights that will undoubtedly turn a year’s hard work into a dream or a nightmare. It can end in champagne toasts or tears. It can secure people’s jobs. Or it can get people terminated…quickly.

Refresh.

Hopefully, they will give us a few weeks to get going. Perhaps? Will we be able to identify them when they do arrive? (more…)

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CARVER’S GROCERY: Slap yourself if you haven’t been to this quintessential Westside Meat ‘n Three spot. On any given day, the restaurant churns out a long list of Southern classics and its mac-n-cheese is tops. Carver’s keeps it simple by using the stuff mac-n-cheese dreams are made of: Velveeta! The Carvers start with a simple béchamel sauce and add Velveeta before mixing it with the cooked shells. The result? A sticky, creamy and super cheesy heap of love on your plate that pairs beautifully with any of the homey entrees. 1118 West Marietta Street. 404-794-4410. www.carverscountrycooking.com.

FOX BROS BAR-B-Q: This BBQ joint takes this ubiquitous side from boring to terrific with a few twists. They make their mac-n-cheese with shells, not elbows. The cream-based sauce gets a healthy dose of white and yellow cheddar cheese and a touch of cayenne pepper for some spice. You can get it alongside your BBQ of choice, on a veggie plate or by the pint/full pan. But there is no debating the sinful superiority of the fried mac-n-cheese. Fox chills the cooked mac, slices it into squares, breads it in seasoned flour and deep-fries until it’s golden and gooey. 1238 Dekalb Ave. 404-577-4030. www.foxbrosbbq.com.

OK CAFÉ: Long-time Atlanta residents are well acquainted with this funky restaurant where American standards are served by saucy wait folk in retro garb. The Café’s “Triple cheese macaroni” has racked up awards over the years and many proclaim it “the best” in Atlanta. A mix of Parmesan, cheddar and Monterey Jack cheeses get a boost from a sprinkling of ranch seasoning and some chopped parsley for color. The kitchen uses a corkscrew-shaped pasta for some added textural interest and bakes it off underneath a sheet of aluminum foil so the contents meld. 1284 West Paces Ferry Road. 404-233-2888. www.okcafe.com.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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My birthday was last week. As with most chefs (or probably most people), I got to choose where to go for dinner with my family. In recent years, I’ve picked a basic steak restaurant. Or a kitchen doing quality pasta. Or even a typical chain restaurant.  For my last three birthdays we went to Fogo de Chao, Ted’s and Outback. Once, I picked the Olive Garden. It’s true. It was a deliberate choice. I wanted to ease the pressure of the “chef’s big dinner out.”  I also don’t mind iceberg lettuce, canned olives, and undercooked bread once a year. But this wasn’t always the case.

When a young cook starts out, everything truly is a wonder. Our first few serious meals are looked at through curious eyes. We don’t know much, so it’s all stimulating. I remember my first few restaurant meals early in my career clear as day. Horseradish mashed potatoes.  A crispy chip of lotus root.  Lamb shank with a giant stem of rosemary sticking in it. Ostrich with a Coca Cola demi glace.

I would enthusiastically tell the waiter I was in culinary school. I asked what farfalle was because I didn’t know, and I admired the chefs of these kitchens as if they were superstars. This wasn’t Paris, by the way, it was Long Island. Most of theses guys were a shade removed from frying calamari. I was just happy to be there.

Fast forward five years, and the food I’ve described (as it may have seemed to you while reading about it) was a joke. An offensive one, which I didn’t actually find funny.  Who would dare stick a stem of rosemary, an inedible garnish, on a finished plate? What horror!  If you were dining out with me during this period… well, I’m sorry. There’s a chance you were a normal person who honestly didn’t care less about the way the chives were sliced for that baked potato. My disgust at the fact that they were actually scallions, and not chives at all, probably irritated you. The discourse that ensued about the fact the spud was really microwaved, and not even baked, sealed the deal. There was no second date. (more…)

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RING THE ALARM: Occupying prime real estate in the 100-year-old Engine 11 firehouse on North Avenue, this laid-back tavern — formerly the Spotted Dog — maintains its antique charm. Grand mahogany accents, dimly-lit lamps (made out of copper-plated fire extinguishers) and two large arched windows give the dining room and patio some common ground. The space upgrades to the present with three large plasma TVs broadcasting the latest games

HOSE ‘EM DOWN: The fully stocked bar houses 16 beers on draft, with most of the focus on domestic favorites. A few gem craft beers include Kona’s Fire Rock Pale Ale from Hawaii. There’s a small wine list, but beer and straightforward mixed drinks are the main draw for the after-work crowd.

STOP, DROP AND ONION ROLL: The menu features the usual bar fare as well as a few stand outs, including meat loaf and “Flashing Lights Shrimp” — fried shrimp with a trio of dipping sauces. If you really plan to chow down while throwing back a few, your best bet is to go with the juicy Engine 11 burger.

Engine 11 Firehouse Tavern, 30 North Ave. 404-873-3473. www.engine11atl.com. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.- 3 a.m.; Sunday 10:30-midnight.

(Photo courtesy Engine 11)

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HOUSTON’S: This long-standing go-to spot for classic American fare serves one hell of a veggie burger. The patty—made in-house with brown rice, black beans and oat bran—is glazed with sweet soy sauce, covered with melted Jack cheese and nestled on a buttered bun toasted on the griddle. It also comes with a large mound of the restaurant’s famous shoestring fries. 2166 Peachtree Road. 404-351-2442; and other locations. www.hillstone.com.

THE PORTER BEER BAR: This Little Five Points beer bar’s veggie burger uses a homemade organic black bean and quinoa patty that is at once hearty and light. A smattering of briny feta, shaved red onion, lettuce, tomato and heady red pepper mustard elevate this over the string of mushy competitors. The kitchen opts for a focaccia style bun encrusted with caramelized onions. And each burger comes with the much-improved garlicky fries or an arugula salad. 1156 Euclid Avenue. 404-223-0393. www.theporterbeerbar.com.

VEGGIELAND RESTAURANT: Join the throngs of regulars at this tiny and hidden vegetarian restaurant in Buckhead. Veggieland makes its own patty with oats, brown rice and other secret ingredients. Depending on your preference, the restaurant fries the patty to a crunchy crisp or griddles it before placing it on a whole wheat bun. The burger comes with your choice of trimmings—guacamole, vegetarian cheese, etc.—and a side of sweet potato fries. Try it with a smear of the tofu-based “Ranch” dressing for a little tang. 211 Pharr Road. 404-231-3111.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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Recession busters: Good beers at a good price

We’re all watching our pennies these days, but if you’re like me, you’ve come too far in your beer taste to go back to The Beast. But that doesn’t mean you can’t save a little coin on your beer purchases and still enjoy a well-crafted brew.

The price of all beer has gone up, so there is only so much you can save without joining the Carrie Nation. The sooner you accept that fact, the sooner you can be enjoying a beer. And remember that a dollar or two savings on a 12-pack of Busch Light evaporates faster than you think – you’ll find yourself going through 4 or 5 in a night vs. 2 or 3 of a more flavorful beer.

Here are a few things I picked up at Tower and Green’s recently that were relative bargains. I tried to balance price and overall enjoyment. All prices are for a 6-pack of 12-oz. bottles except as indicated. (more…)

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IN THE MIX: Mixologist Sasha Petraske

SPEAKEASY SWAGGER: World renowned mixologist, Sasha Petraske—of Milk and Honey and Little Branch fame—brings a piece of New York to the new W Hotel in Downtown Atlanta. Petraske has enlisted the always-stylish and incredibly talented Eric Simpkins, formerly of Trois, who fits perfectly with Petraske’s philosophy and vision. While the approach to drink making is decidedly old-fashioned, the decor is anything but. The W’s signature contemporary touches abound, from the sleek construction materials to the long low-profile tables surrounded by wide retro-modern chairs. Vintage influences pop up in smalls touches including the arm garters worn by male barkeeps and the well-chosen barware.

POST-PROHIBITION: While the beer menu definitely caters to the hotel set, the range of obscure boutique spirits is bound to impress even the most seasoned cocktail aficionados. All of the mixers—like ginger ale and apple juice—are freshly made in-house. The ice—yes, ice—is the coolest feature. An illuminated 150-pound block sits at the center of the bar and is chipped to order “Basic Instinct” style. Other varieties—including spears and spheres—are used depending which drink you choose. Early favorites include “The Bees Knees”—a delicate gin-based concoction ripe with clover honey—and anything made with emulsified egg whites. Feeling a bit peckish? Hungry imbibers can happily nibble on a small selection of dishes from the neighboring BLT Steak kitchen.

Drinkshop, 45 Ivan Allen Jr. Blvd. 404-582-5800. Mon.-Sat., 7p.m.-2:30a.m.; Sun., 7p.m.- 12:30a.m. www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels/index.html.

(Photo by Ben Rose Photography)

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ALON’S BAKERY AND MARKET: This widely loved bakery’s assortment of mini cookies is proof that the best things often come in small packages. Chewy and gooey Krakovskis—raspberry preserves sandwiched within an almond-based cookie—and crumbly Mexican wedding cookies are displayed alongside the occasional specials of French macaroons and hamantashens. Lazy bakers will love the convenience of buying a tube of dough—like the chocolate chunk pecan—to bake at home and pass off as your own. Our lips are sealed. 1394 North Highland Avenue. 404-872-6000; 4505 Ashford Dunwoody Road. 678-397-1781. www.alons.com.

HENRI’S BAKERY: Henri’s doesn’t try to be overly fancy, but it churns out every classic sweet imaginable to an extremely loyal clientèle. Gingerbread men (and women), thumbprint cookies dotted in a spectrum of pastel icing and every other cookie you can imagine sit side by side in the colorful case. The bakery also makes plenty of fun cookies for holidays, such as a large sugar cookie decorated with romantic sentiments to let your valentine know just how sweet he or she is. 61 Irby Avenue. 404-237-0202; 6289 Roswell Road. 404-256-7934. www.henrisbakery.com.

THE COOKIE STUDIO: The owners of The Cookie Studio approach every cookie recipe with a scientific approach until their ideal is met. An example is their pitch-perfect chocolate chip cookie, which the bakers worked on for eight months. A simple sugar cookie exhibits the proprietors’ skill. It’s everything you could ever want in a sugar cookie: crumbly, soft and just sweet enough without being cloying. 747-C East College Avenue. 404-373-8527. www.thecookiestudio.net.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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SERENITY NOW: This cozy Oakhurst spot proves wine bars don’t have to be pretentious. The restored Scottish Rite Hospital has transformed into a low-key hangout decorated with a mix of antiquish furniture and dark walls covered in paintings by local artists from the adjoining gallery—the best spot is the window-filled room where you can gaze out onto the sleepy neighborhood.

WET YOUR WHISTLE: Wines are sold in four tiers available by the glass or bottle. The selection won’t wow connoisseurs, but has a smart mix of New and Old World varietals. The bar also has an impressive list of small-batch spirits and Hot Buttered Rum from the seasonal cocktail menu is a nice way to take the edge off the cold weather.

A MATTER OF TASTE: The menu includes straightforward dishes such as bruschetta, macadamia nut encrusted scallops and baked tilapia – hardly revolutionary – but the chef’s cheese plate would be perfect alongside a glass of wine.

Palate Wine Bar, 321 West Hill Street, 404-373-4702. Sun.-Tue., 6p.m.-10p.m.; Wed.-Thu.; 6p.m.-11p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 6p.m.-12a.m. www.palatewinebar.com.

(photo courtesy Palate Wine Bar)

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Soft white sandwich bread gets a bad rap. Health nuts extol the virtues of breads packed with grains and seeds. Food snobs prefer crusty artisan loaves and consider white bread an affront to their delicate sensibilities. Well, I say white bread absolutely has its place in everyone’s kitchen. Sandwiches such as egg salad, BLT, grilled cheese and PB&J simply aren’t the same without white bread’s soft, formfitting goodness.

Now I’m not talking about any old white bread here. I’ve tried almost every grocery store brand and none approaches Japanese shokupan, also known as milk toast or milk bread. It only takes one aromatic whiff to let you know how radically different it is from its spongy Wonder Bread cousin. Shokupan is an intricate series of airy and buttery layers. The golden crust is just thick enough to provide some structure without having to run interference if you’re eating it untoasted. When it is toasted, the bread resembles a crème brulee with its shattering crust and creamy insides. It’s a beauty to behold.

Many local Japanese and Korean bakeries make some version of shokupan. Although each bakery has its own twist on the shape, height and size, the insides are always intoxicatingly similar.

Check out the list below to find a shokupan bakery near you.

BAKERY CAFE MAUM: 7130 Buford Highway, Doraville. 770-263-7447; and other locations. www.bakerycafemaum.com.

JOLI KOBE BAKERY & BISTRO: 5600 Roswell Road. 404-843-3257; 1545 Peachtree St., Suite 115. 404-870-0640. www.jolikobe.com.

MOZART CAFE AND BAKERY: 5301 Buford Highway. 770-936-8726, and other locations.

TOMATO JAPANESE GROCERY: 2086 Cobb Parkway, Smyrna. 770-933-0108; 7124 Peachtree Industrial Blvd., Norcross. 770-263-7838.

WHITE WINDMILL BAKERY AND CAFÉ: 2550 Pleasant Hill Road, Duluth. 678-584-0000; and other locations.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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PUBLIC HOUSE: Most taverns have that worn in feel from years of drunken revelry, but Marlow’s Tavern — a chain with locations all over metro Atlanta — aims for spruced up décor with a laid back vibe. Contemporary touches such as clusters of black-and-white photos in glossy black frames, modern light fixtures, and discretely placed plasma televisions create a posh feel. Sleek, however, doesn’t equal cold here. Cozy dark wood booths and brick walls add the kind of warmth that begs you to linger. Plus, the staff is friendly and attentive.

LIBATIONS: Beers — ubiquitous brands, regional microbrews and imports — abound. Since this is a tavern, the wine selection is small and middling. But the long list of signature and classic cocktails, including a Dirty Vodka Martini made with Level vodka available in “filthy,” is the thing to order here. Look for the seasonal hot drink menu (made with and without alcohol), with choices such as Marlow’s Nip — Caribou coffee spiked with brandy, Kahlua and chocolate liquor.

RAISING THE BAR: The menu holds many familiar pub grub dishes with a slightly upscale twist. Some entrees verge on too creative, so stick with the basics. Filling starters such as crunchy kettle chips topped with blue cheese, scallions, bacon and tomatoes are perfect for sharing with friends. Burgers are always a safe bet, as are a side of hand-cut fries, also available as a starter topped with truffle oil and Parmesan.

Marlow’s Tavern, 950 W. Peachtree St., Suite 215. 404-815-0323. Sun.-Wed., 11:30 a.m.-midnight; Thurs.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.- 2 a.m. www.marlowstavern.com.

(Photo courtesy Marlow’s Tavern)

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JCT KITCHEN & BAR: JCT’s vegetable plate is just what we crave when the spectrum of brown winter foods has grown tiresome. Chef Ford Fry uses an assortment of seasonal vegetables from the Local Farmstand located outside of Star Provisions and cooks them with great care. Fry adds some heft to the dish with the addition of pillowy homemade gnocchi as a base. The dish is finished with a buttery sauce made with chicken stock. A vegetarian version using white wine is also available. 1198 Howell Mill Road, Suite 18. 404-355-2252. www.jctkitchen.com.

RIA’S BLUEBIRD: Chef/owner Ria Pell’s Brisket Breakfast is not only soothing, but a guaranteed hangover killer. Pell slow cooks the brisket for 14 hours and uses the braising liquid to create a spicy tomato broth. The broth is ladled into a large bowl and topped with chunks of the fork-tender beef and two poached eggs. The combination of the silky broth, rich egg yolks, buttery beef, and crunch of the accompanying toasted baguette creates an orgy of textures in each bite. It’s had us hooked since we first tried it years ago. 421 Memorial Drive. 404-521-3737. www.riasbluebird.com.

SOTTO SOTTO RESTAURANT: Hearty pastas with rich meat sauces are a no-brainer when there’s a chill in the air. One of our favorites is Sotto Sotto’s Lasagnette alla Bolognese, a sort of free-form lasagna. Chef/owner Riccardo Ullio takes the long strands of homemade lasagnette pasta (a lasagna and pappardelle hybrid) and tops them with a slow-cooked traditional Bolognese sauce (made with veal, pork, beef and bits of charcuterie) and creamy bechamel sauce. He then flash bakes the dish in the restaurant’s wood-burning oven to marry the flavors. 313 N. Highland Ave. 404-523-6678. www.sottosottorestaurant.com.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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CASUAL CHARACTER: Craftbar — the more casual little brother of Tom Colicchio’s Craft located on the building’s first floor — is a nice alternative for something low-key and less expensive. The restaurant’s decor has an organic yet refined feel: Wood walls meet industrial accents such as dangling lightbulb clusters and dark metal. The open kitchen placed near the entrance of the restaurant makes for an entrancing dinner show.

CRAFTY COCKTAILS: A drink binder houses a wide selection of wines from around the world, an impressive list of spirits such as grappa, eau-de-vie, scotch, rum, tequila, and a handful of original cocktails. Favorite drinks included the Sunshine Squeeze #1 — fresh ginger, Ketel One vodka, Depaz cane syrup and lemon and lime juice — and the herbaceous and playfully named Tom’s Collins made with Hendrick’s gin, Fever Tree Bitter Lemon and a fresh slice of cucumber.

COMFORT CUISINE: A tiny cast-iron pot filled with perfectly diced steak tartare crowned with a raw egg comes with golden brown gaufrette potato chips. Large ricotta meatballs are packed into a cozy bowl alongside wide ribbons of fresh pappardelle enrobed in a deep red tomato sauce and topped with snowflakes of Parmesan cheese. S’mores made with homemade salted graham crackers, marshmallows and dark chocolate are almost too pretty to eat.

Craftbar, the Mansion on Peachtree, 3376 Peachtree Road. 404-995-7580. Sun.-Thurs., 5:30-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5:30-11 p.m. www.craftrestaurant.com/craftbar.html.

(Photo courtesy Photos.com)

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BABETTE’S CAFÉ: Chef/owner Marla Adams’ swoon-worthy shoestring fries beckon at this cozy and classic French-Mediterranean restaurant. Adams’ gorgeous fries are her homage to a version she had in Istanbul as a child. She credits the dryness of the fry’s interior and golden exterior to soaking the potatoes until almost no starch remains. The crispy potatoes are served in a towering pile alongside hearty dishes such as grilled herb-crusted lamb chops with a red wine reduction. 573 N. Highland Ave. 404-523-9121. www.babettescafe.com.

FLOATAWAY CAFÉ: The restaurant takes its produce and preparation seriously, and that’s evident in its perfectly executed pommes frites. The freshly cut fries have an intense potato flavor — likely a result of the restaurant’s notoriously impeccable sourcing. But the real reason these spuds are so addictive is their ever so subtle sweetness. The fries are offered à la carte or on the side of a smoky wood-grilled hanger steak that’s consistently cooked to the correct temperature. 1123 Zonolite Road, Suite 15. 404-892-1414. www.starprovisions.com.

MUSS & TURNER’S: Skip the chips the next time you visit this sandwich heaven and go for the house-made French fries instead. The fries are cut daily, given a quick soak, blanched, fried to a golden crisp and served in a massive — emphasis on massive — paper-lined bowl. It’s more than enough for two people. Ketchup will do, but one of the house-made dipping sauces such as Sriracha aioli, thyme aioli or remoulade take the fries to another level. 1675 Cumberland Parkway, Suite 309, Smyrna. 770-434-1114. www.mussandturners.com.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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MEMORY LANE: Thanks to a recent renovation, the previously dingy digs of the 49-year-old Midtown institution are welcoming once again with plenty of deliciously tacky old-school charm to go around. Each of the 32 state-of-the-art lanes has an assigned table for congregating; an Atari-esque kiosk with various service call buttons; and a mounted TV monitor — complete with those wonderfully cheesy animated bowling shorts — that tallies and boasts which player is the current “Kingpin.”

GUTTER BOMBS: Basic and obscenely cheap items such as hot dogs, burgers, hand-battered wings, fried fish baskets and funnel cakes abound on the large menu. But there’s something simply irresistible about the “Big Nasty,” a sinfully messy and greasy heap of French fries, tater tots and homemade potato chips topped with chili, nacho cheese and pickled jalapeños. Check out the lunch special Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-2 p.m., which includes lane rental, those bitchin’ shoes, your pick from a handful of menu items and a fountain drink for $11.75.

BEER FRAME: This bowling alley doesn’t play around when it comes to booze. The fully stocked bar has an impressive list of more than 84 beers from all over the world, wines, an extensive selection of liquors, and shot specials to warm up your arm and give you the courage to bust out that impression of Jesus from The Big Lebowski. They even sell towels to shine your ball if you’ve forgotten your prop at home.

Midtown Bowl, 1936 Piedmont Circle. 404-874-5703. Daily, 9 a.m.-3 a.m. www.midtownbowl.com.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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TAQUERIA EL REY DEL TACO: Skilled matrons of the kitchen knock out fresh tortillas while gossiping and laughing. And those fresh tortillas and the exceptional salsas—both smoky roja and creamy verde—are the reason to visit. Tacos filled with chivo (goat) or cabeza (beef cheeks) are exceptional. And no table is complete without a massive goblet of vibrant red seafood cocktail studded with chopped onions and cilantro. 5288 Buford Highway. 770-986-0095.

LA OAXAQUENA TAQUERIA: The main draw for most at this perennial favorite is the large tlayuda—think Mexican-style “pizza” made on an enormous tortilla from the Oaxaca region of Mexico. Tacos—like the tender cabeza—arrive atop a large, fresh tortilla finished with a charred baby onion and lime wedge for a perfect contrast against the fatty beef. The salsa bar (Atlanta’s best) is pristine and offers a wide variety of freshly made toppings. The restaurant is expanding to a new location across the street any day now—call ahead. 6738 Tara Boulevard, Jonesboro. 770-960-3010.

GORDITA’S LA RANCHERITA: Every corn-based item is made by hand with fresh masa. Impossibly fluffy (and large) tortillas come with taco fillings such as fatty crumbled chorizo or the shredded pieces of goat barbacoa in an earthy red sauce. The gorditas are the best I’ve encountered outside of Mexico. Each is crisp on the outside for structure but has that essential layer of soft masa that tells you it’s fresh. Tip: the bakery next door sells a killer flan that is sliced to order. 2055 Beaver Ruin Road, Norcross. 678-206-0107.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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GATO BIZCO CAFÉ: It is easy to overlook this tiny spot with that winged biscuit franchise in such close proximity, but in-the-know locals head here for the homey ambiance and cozy comfort food. The sweet potato pancakes draw raves, but this purist orders the plain pancakes for their pitch-perfect density, fluffiness and subtle sweetness that isn’t cloying when syrup is added to the mix. 1660 McLendon Avenue. 404-371-0889.

JAVA JIVE COFFEE HOUSE & CAFÉ: People love this Ponce de Leon breakfast hangout for its retro kitsch, gorgeous biscuits, house blended coffee, and wonderful waffles. But the pancakes, ranging from plain to sweet potato to those made with nutty wheat germ, rarely get the praise they deserve. They look and taste as a pancake should – not too brown, big or gummy. 790 Ponce De Leon Avenue. 404-876-6161.

THE ORIGINAL PANCAKE HOUSE: This classic chain earns props for longevity and its incredible breadth of offerings. No matter what kind you crave, OPH has you covered from tiny silver dollar pancakes you can dip in syrup, to pigs in a blanket, to the dutch baby—a pancake cooked in a cast iron pan until it resembles a mushroom cloud before it deflates into a sunken surface blanketed with powdered sugar. 2321 Cheshire Bridge Road. 404-633-5677. www.originalpancakehouse.com.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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AUSTRALIAN BAKERY CAFE: When cereal just won’t do, start your day off the right way with a hearty “Aussie Meat Pie” from this exceptional Australian bakeshop. There are numerous styles—including a steak & kidney pie—but it’s hard to resist the original made with USDA ground beef swimming in gravy and served in a flaky crust that’s just as good when reheated back at home. 463 Flat Shoals Avenue and one other location. 404-653-0100. www.australianbakery.com.

BRAZILIAN BAKERY: The sweet items first catch your attention at this Brazilian carb haven, but the menu holds many treasures—especially the savory pastéis (Brazilian pies). The pastéis are made with a paper-thin crust stuffed with filling, formed into a large rectangle and deep-fried until it is bubbly and brown. The best versions are the “Frango” – shredded chicken in a special sauce that tastes like barbecue and the “Palmito,” a creamy hearts of palm mixture. 1260 Powers Ferry Road, Marietta. 770-818-0088.

THE ORIGINAL JAMAICAN RESTAURANT: This unassuming downtown restaurant serves some of the best Jamaican patties in the city. The crust is deep yellow from a healthy dose of turmeric, airy where it needs to be but still sturdy enough to hold the molten contents. The beef patty is the best of the bunch because its highly seasoned ground beef filling seems to reveal itself to you in layers and gets spicier with each bite. 166 Trinity Avenue. 404-525-8921.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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It’s that time of year where we reflect on the past 12 months and consider what happened and whether it was good or bad. Oh, and we make a bunch of lists. Here are mine:

Best of 2008

Dogfish Head Palo Santo Marron. Aged in a giant vat constructed of Palo Santo wood, a dense aromatic wood from Paraguay that is more commonly used for wine, this strong brown ale has a remarkable vanilla-oakiness and a deep, roasted malt character. Building the 10,000 gallon tank, the largest wooden beer vessel built in the United States since Prohibition, proved to be its own special challenge. Procuring such a large amount of the wood was difficult since there are few large pieces, and it is over three times as hard as oak, dulling saw blades and defying nails and screws. It’s an interesting story, but how does it taste? Terrific. Like a great single-malt whisky, it seems to draw out the earthy, woody essence of the roasted malt. Herbal elements of licorice, tobacco and coffee bean are held aloft by a raft of softly sweet vanilla, molasses and cherry. Warm without being boozy, and delightfully complex, it is a treat to have it in the regular rotation from Dogfish Head. (more…)

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Atlanta has witnessed numerous dining trends over the past year. But the focus on extensive charcuterie offerings at many restaurants and specialty food stores — using both in-house and imported products — is one trend we predict is here to stay.

ENOTECA CARBONARI: This little enoteca from the owners of Baraonda allows diners to build their ideal plate of Italian cured meats from a comprehensive Selezione di Salumi. Notable selections are the hard-to-find culatello, mortadella and finocchiona. 710 Peachtree St. 404-810-9110. www.enotecacarbonari.com.

HOLEMAN & FINCH PUBLIC HOUSE: The restaurant serves an ever-changing assortment of five to seven of chef Linton Hopkins’ house-cured creations — such as lonzino, coppa and pork rillettes — garnished with pickles, mustard and bread from H&F Bread Co. 2277 Peachtree Road. 404-948-1175. www.holeman-finch.com.

KROG BAR: Chef Kevin Rathbun’s Spanish-inspired tapas bar holds many treats for those looking for a Euro-style nosh. The Carne is offered à la carte so you can create a feast from a small but quality list of classic Spanish cured meats such as chorizo, Serrano ham and lomo. 112 Krog St., Suite 27. 404-524-1618. www.krogbar.com.

STAR PROVISIONS: Newly hired chef Todd Immel has already put his signature on the store’s charcuterie program with such items as a potted chicken liver mousse capped with duck fat, tangy merguez sausages with homemade harissa, ciccioli (a chunky pork terrine) and spicy sopressata salami. 1198 Howell Mill Road. 404-365-0410. www.starprovisions.com

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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Here’s a find, a new Chinese restaurant from the folks who own Hae Woon Dae, everyone’s favorite spot for Korean barbecue. It’s Manchunhong (5953 Buford Hwy., 770-454-5640), located in Seoul Plaza.

The restaurant’s extensive menu is much like other Korean-Chinese restaurants in the area. But ask for the special menu and you will be given a list of Sichuan dishes, many of which are not to be found anywhere else in the city, according to Bob Mullan, the foodie who tipped me off to the restaurant.

We didn’t eat anything that wasn’t delicious, including the fish with pickled vegetables (top photo) and the “husband and wife lung slices” (above, right). It’s actually slices of beef and tendon. When I asked our server why it was called lung, she said, “It’s not liver.”

We also had Sichuan soup with pork-filled wontons, lots of chopped peanuts and garlic and a dish of pork belly favored by Chairman Mao.

I’ll have a full report in Grazing soon. Meanwhile, check it out. Just be sure you ask for the special menu.

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