Omnivore Atlanta

WORTH A MINT: The mint tea at Westside Garden Market

Back in January, I wrote about an odd but quaint grocery that had opened on traffic-congested Howell Mill Road. At that time, Westside Garden Market’s (1954 Howell Mill Road, 404-609-9666, www.westsidegardenmarket.com) owner, Majid Elmaliki, planned to offer a handful of to-go items in addition to his assortment of locally made products and local produce. On a recent visit, I was surprised to find that the market is in fact no longer a market. The shelves have since been replaced by little tables covered in red-and-white-checkered tablecloths and the market is now a full-service restaurant serving Moroccan-inspired home cooking.

As soon as any customer walks in, Elmaliki springs into action. His mix of heartfelt hospitality and genuine enthusiasm to serve will make anyone feel immediately at home. The menu consists of a small collection of recognizable dishes — offered in affordable lunch and dinner options. A hot soup, made with fresh yellow tomatoes (one of the only items not made in house), has a smooth mouthfeel and surprisingly little acidity.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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ALPINE BAKERY & PIZZERIA: Long Island native Bill Clementi and his partners, Stephen Bishop and Anthony DeTommaso, have the north side market cornered on Italian sweets. Their cannoli stand tall among the bakery’s offerings. The shells are freshly made and stuffed with a mixture of premium ricotta impastata, sugar, vanilla and a few secret ingredients. The filling is then studded with tiny chocolate chips. They’re offered in either small or regular sizes. 295 Rucker Road, Alpharetta. 770-410-9883. www.alpinebakeryandpizzeria.com.

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GRINDHOUSE KILLER BURGERS: The burger and chili cheese fries

To most people, a burger is just a burger — a timeless American treat worth the occasional caloric splurge. Playful flavor combinations and fancy deconstructions are exciting, but there’s something to be said about a spot, such as Grindhouse Killer Burgers (209 Edgewood Ave., 404-522-3444, www.grindhouseburgers.com), that skips the pretense and gets straight to the beef.

Owner Alex Brounstein (a real estate developer and attorney) chose the Sweet Auburn Curb Market as the restaurant’s location for many reasons. The market already has a captive audience of shoppers with food on the mind, and the overhead is much cheaper than a traditional bricks and mortar space. What’s more, the restaurant’s presence helps revitalize a historic Atlanta food-centric landmark.

Amid the hustle and bustle of the market, tucked away in a corner, sits a curving counter surrounded by stools. The seating faces a semi-open kitchen and a makeshift movie theater where kooky action movies such as Kung Fu Hustle are projected on the wall.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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There have been conflicting reports of where and when Havana will resurface. Apparently, two restaurants named Havana are slated to open on Buford Highway in the near future. And two different people — Debbie Benedit and William Benedit — claim they are resurrecting the original “Havana.”

Mrs. Benedit (pictured above in the black shirt) has given me her side of the story. However, I have been unable to reach Mr. Benedit for a comment at this time.

Stay tuned as I gather additional facts and get to the bottom of this.

(Photo from Debbie Benedit’s website, www.havanarestaurantatlanta.com)

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My latest obsession: The “Burger stack” at Bocado (887 Howell Mill Road, 30318. 404-815-1399. www.bocadoatlanta.com) on the Westside.

Read all about it on my blog, The Blissful Glutton.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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GOLDEN DELICIOUS: The fried chicken at K&K Soul Food

New restaurants open every day, but no amount of meticulous design can replicate the charm and character acquired with age. Walking into K&K Soul Food (881 Donald Lee Hollowell Parkway, 404-685-1073) feels like you’ve traveled back in time to a different era in Atlanta’s culinary history. Crudely handwritten signs advertise specials such as pigs feet. The cafeteria-style steam table is filled with so many options your head will spin. Take your place in the curving line and study the menu because while the cooking is simple, deciding what to order is not.

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Dua Vietnamese Noodle Soup: Owners Mylinh Cao and her mother, Tham Mai, strive to bring a taste of Vietnam to downtown, and standard Vietnamese dishes — such as pho and com — abound. The bún dishes provide a refreshing spin on the average lunchtime salad. Chilled rice vermicelli noodles are loaded with your choice of meat (or tofu), shallots, ground peanuts, crunchy shreds of lettuce, fresh herbs and a hacked-up fried spring roll. The accompanying dish of sweet, spicy and tangy n??c ch?m (a concoction of fresh chilis, garlic and fish sauce) ties the whole thing together. 53 Broad St. 404-589-8889. www.yougotpho.com.

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It takes a lot for me to to jump off of my couch, throw on some clothes and speed over to a restaurant after settling in for the night. But that’s just what I did after getting a call from my friend (partner in crime and pizza freak), Kit Fenton, tonight proclaiming he’d just had “the best pizza in Atlanta.” I have no idea how Antico Pizza Napoletana (1093 Hemphill Ave., 404-724-2333. www.anticopizza.it) flew under my (and everyone else’s) radar. But my first visit was a revelation. Owner Giovanni Di Palma (a native of New York and Naples) is the kind of man who instantly wins your adoration. His enthusiasm and pure passion for true Naples style pizza is so infectious, I was thrown into a manic state of pizza lust the moment I entered the brand new Westside Pizzeria. Yes, lust. And anyone who wants to know where Enrico Liberato (the former pizzaiolo at Fritti) has disappeared to need not look any further.

Luca Varuni, Giovanni Di Palma and Enrico Liberato

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Jujubee’s: Jujubee’s keeps it simple by offering a few flavors of its Italian-style frozen yogurt along with all the usual toppings. The pomegranate, a usual suspect at modern frozen yogurt establishments, is tart and tasty. But the chocolate is so full-flavored and rich, you may forget you’re eating something low-fat. Instead of contending with rogue sprinkles and chocolate chips, the counter folks smartly secure the toppings with another thin layer of frozen yogurt, and they’ll even let you mix up the flavors in the layers. 4279 Roswell Road. 404-303-0024.

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Every few months, my sister and I inevitably find ourselves debating which three cuisines we could eat for the rest of our lives if we had to choose. Typing it makes the whole thing seem ridiculous since I can’t fathom a scenario where we would need to do so. But the debate is always interesting because our choices evolve as we broaden our food horizons. Yeah, we are food-obsessed weirdos.

Although my sister and I tend to have wildly different tastes and appetites (I am always snacking while she is more regimented in her meal times), we both, without fail, rank Japanese in the highest position. Japanese food has everything you could want. Raw. Fried. Stewed. Steamed. Grilled. Sautéed. The list goes on and on. The ingredients are handled with reverence. Precision is of the utmost importance. And the flavors and presentation are simple, but stunning.

I don’t know how or when it happened, but Atlanta has accumulated quite the assortment of Japanese restaurants. People think San Francisco is rife with Japanese cuisine. But let me tell you something: I lived in San Francisco and it has nothing on Atlanta. My mind actually races with indecision when I have to choose a spot because there are so many options–Sushi House Hayakawa, Yakitori Jinbei, Shoya Izakaya, Taka, Tomo, Hashiguchi Junior and Nakato just to name a few of my favorites. We. Are. Lucky. And now, I found another Japanese spot to add to my rotation, Ege Sushi and Japanese Cuisine.

Continue reading about Ege at Blissfulglutton.com

(Photo of Ege’s special menu by Jennifer Zyman)

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SOCIAL: There are places in Atlanta that don’t get nearly as much business as they should. And this quaint and chic Mediterranean café/wine bar is a prime example. Brothers Jalil and Rheda Chikhaoui serve up a menu similar to any you’d find at a restaurant of its ilk in France. During the summer, the restaurant offers an authentic gazpacho as a special. This version is chock-full of the typical ingredients—fresh tomatoes, cucumber, and bell peppers—but they add their own twist with a dash of cumin, harissa and a “special” tomato juice for a smoother mouthfeel. The soup is topped with lump crabmeat and a tiny dice of cucumber for contrast. 12 W. Peachtree Place. 404-525-2246. www.socialintown.com.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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We Castleberry Hill residents have been on a lucky food and drink streak lately. Johnny Cakes, the soon-to-open Chocolate Bar and now, the No Mas! Hacienda & Cantina folks have opened Adios Cafe, a chocolate and espresso bar. The cafe serves a wide variety of homemade Mexican treats such as Panecillo (corn muffins), freshly made churros, Mexican truffles infused with tamarindo and savory empanadas filled with chorizo, eggs, black beans, peppers and cheese. Choose from a long list of Mexican coffee and chocolate drinks (e.g. coffee laced with cinnamon and cocoa, hot chocolate with chili de arbol and the like), Mighty Leaf teas and chilled bottles of Jarritos sodas to enjoy alongside the pastries and desserts. The Cafe opens at 7 a.m. and closes at 10 p.m. daily. There is plenty of parking and ample seating in the vividly adorned cafe attached to the equally vibrant restaurant and furniture store. They even offer free WiFi. Stay tuned for more in an upcoming Cheap Eats…

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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MAGGIANO’S LITTLE ITALY: Going to this deliciously cheesy faux Little Italy is all about the kitsch and the comfort food. Family-style eating in guilt-inducing portions abound. Disparage it for being a chain if you wish, but they make a respectable meatball — each one tender, well-seasoned and completely crave-worthy. The meatballs are immense, so one will suffice when placed atop an order of spaghetti with marinara or meat sauce. 3368 Peachtree Road, 404-816-9650; and two other metro Atlanta locations. www.maggianos.com.

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DUCK! Winged bacon at Nak Dong Gang

It’s a rare occasion when a food writer is in a position to introduce someone to his country’s own cuisine. But that is exactly the situation I found myself in the other day when brunching at Nak Dong Gang Restaurant (7130 Buford Highway, Doraville, 770-242-0201). One of my companions was Gene Lee, the author of the formidable Atlanta food blog Eat Drink Man … A Food Journal (www.eatdrinkman.blogspot.com). Lee’s pristinely plated dishes, breathtaking photos and steadfast devotion to all things culinary make his site my undisputed favorite in the city. Given his prowess-especially with homespun Korean dishes inspired by his beloved mother’s cooking-I was surprised to learn he’d never eaten Korean-style duck, the specialty at Nak Dong Gang. A visit was in order. So, we bypassed the brunch flapjacks in favor of birds that quack.

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CAFE DI SOL: This little café’s outdoor patio is a picturesque spot to dine alongside young families, brunch addicts and in-the-know regulars when spring is the air. The Café’s Eggs Benedict doesn’t try to be fancy, but it is prepared exactly as it should be. The kitchen takes toasted Thomas’ English Muffins and layers them with pan-heated German cold smoked ham, runny poached eggs, a silky sunshine yellow Hollandaise and a smattering of chives. 640 North Highland Avenue. 404-963-9438. www.cafedisol.com.

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TAKE THE CAKE: A selection of baked goods at Alpine Bakery

Alpharetta is the last place you’d expect to find a slice of New York. But that is exactly where Long Island native Bill Clementi and his partners, Stephen Bishop and Anthony DeTommaso, opened Alpine Bakery & Pizzeria (295 Rucker Road, Alpharetta, 770-410-9883, www.alpinebakeryandpizzeria.com).

Clementi grew up around dough. Some of his mostly Sicilian family were in the pizza and restaurant business. But it was his grandfather, a baker, who inspired a young Clementi to begin writing and compiling the book of recipes he still uses today. After one too many torturous New York commutes, Clementi moved down to Georgia. He eventually opened a pizzeria with Bishop and DeTommaso, whom he met while serving in the U.S. Coast Guard. But things really came together when Clementi started baking cakes in his basement for a friend’s restaurant. The operation quickly expanded from its meager beginnings into an 8,000-square-foot bakery cranking out cakes for a long list of restaurant clients; the retail location opened some 18 years later.

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(Photo courtesy Alpine Bakery)

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ARDEN’S GARDEN: While you’re probably familiar with this Atlanta-based juice company’s bottled products, its stores are worth the visit for the exclusive juices—like wheat grass—made with a cloth-filtered hydraulic press so the juices don’t lose any of their nutrients by being exposed to air, etc. Hardcore juicing enthusiasts will adore the “Grand Slam” a sequence of mini shots—wheat grass, ginger, lemon and cranberry—with a pineapple chaser. No matter how skeptical you may be, the sensation as each juice infuses the body does leave one feeling cleaner. Jack LaLanne may actually be onto something. 1117 Euclid Avenue. 404-827-0424; and four other locations. www.ardensgarden.com.

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“Where ya from?” I ask Kenny Washington, one of the owners of Fat Philly’s Wings & Things (886 Martin Luther King Jr. Drive. 404-254-3113. www.fatphillys.net). “D.C.” he says. “What kind of rolls do you use?” I say with my left eyebrow in a slight arch. “Amoroso’s. Why? You trying to see if my cheesesteaks are the real thing?” He laughs and throws me a wink. Before I can say anything else, my boyfriend mentions some Northeastern sports rivalry and they start yapping in unintelligible male-speak. I go into food mode.

It’s Sunday, which means grease is in order and all food (and drink) sins will be forgiven tomorrow. I go for the triple cheese cheesesteak with extra cheese and meat. The man orders the ribs with baked beans and potato salad. As we wait—and wait you will since this place operates at a down-home pace—I scan the digs. The space is quite modern and feels a little like a franchise with its bright blues, brushed metal accents and booming surround sound. The counter is a great spot to see the cooks in action, but the tables give you a prime vantage point for my favorite pastime: theater of the living. A cluster of ever-present policemen in winter garb huddle around a table noisily chatting with their eyes fixated on one of the mounted flat screen TVs. Students from the nearby A.U.C. drift in and out in their just-rolled-out-my-dorm-room-bed best.

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CARVER’S GROCERY: Slap yourself if you haven’t been to this quintessential Westside Meat ‘n Three spot. On any given day, the restaurant churns out a long list of Southern classics and its mac-n-cheese is tops. Carver’s keeps it simple by using the stuff mac-n-cheese dreams are made of: Velveeta! The Carvers start with a simple béchamel sauce and add Velveeta before mixing it with the cooked shells. The result? A sticky, creamy and super cheesy heap of love on your plate that pairs beautifully with any of the homey entrees. 1118 West Marietta Street. 404-794-4410. www.carverscountrycooking.com.

FOX BROS BAR-B-Q: This BBQ joint takes this ubiquitous side from boring to terrific with a few twists. They make their mac-n-cheese with shells, not elbows. The cream-based sauce gets a healthy dose of white and yellow cheddar cheese and a touch of cayenne pepper for some spice. You can get it alongside your BBQ of choice, on a veggie plate or by the pint/full pan. But there is no debating the sinful superiority of the fried mac-n-cheese. Fox chills the cooked mac, slices it into squares, breads it in seasoned flour and deep-fries until it’s golden and gooey. 1238 Dekalb Ave. 404-577-4030. www.foxbrosbbq.com.

OK CAFÉ: Long-time Atlanta residents are well acquainted with this funky restaurant where American standards are served by saucy wait folk in retro garb. The Café’s “Triple cheese macaroni” has racked up awards over the years and many proclaim it “the best” in Atlanta. A mix of Parmesan, cheddar and Monterey Jack cheeses get a boost from a sprinkling of ranch seasoning and some chopped parsley for color. The kitchen uses a corkscrew-shaped pasta for some added textural interest and bakes it off underneath a sheet of aluminum foil so the contents meld. 1284 West Paces Ferry Road. 404-233-2888. www.okcafe.com.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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There is no better evidence of our superior ethnic dining scene than the proliferation of restaurants specializing in sub-cuisines. The newest hotspot is Delicious Kabob (3640 Shallowford Road, 770-457-4948), an off-the-beaten-path restaurant specializing in Northern Chinese and Szechuan dishes. Owner Zhiqiang Zhang hired one of Atlanta’s Chinese superchefs, chef Lu Liu and his partner, chef Beijing Yang to oversee the menu. Chef Liu and chef Yang hail from Northern China as do Zhang and his sister, Shomey, who runs the front of the house. But Liu is an expert at cooking most regional Chinese cuisines and took home the gold in a National Chinese cooking competition.

Northern Chinese fare dominates the menu. The lamb kebabs encrusted with cumin seeds and chili oil delight with a hint of game on the tongue, the crunch of char rife with kiss of the fire and the seductive aroma of toasted cumin. “Tofu skin with pepper” plays on subtlety. Chewy pappardelle-like noodles made from crosshatched tofu skin—the film that forms atop tofu—are stir-fried with slender pieces of juicy pork and slivered green hot peppers. A clay pot filled with “Lamb stew with goji berries and dates” hints at Morocco with the waft of clove and sweetness from the dates and chestnuts. The stew’s broth is slightly thickened with cornstarch (instead of time), but the flavor is there.

The Szechuan menu is small, but strong. Paper-thin pieces of beef in the “Szechuan crispy fried beef spiced with chilis and peppercorns” are lightly breaded and wok-fried to a crisp. The Szechuan peppercorns, dried red chilis, cilantro and green onions perfume the meat and add that quintessential “ma la” heat (numbing and spicy). The chili and green onion laden broth in the “Fish boiled in spicy chili oil” isn’t slick with oil, but just fatty enough to play against the confit-esque pieces of grouper and crunchy Napa cabbage. Comparisons to other Szechuan restaurants are inevitable. But this restaurant’s breadth of warming food and equally warm staff give it more than enough strength to stand on its own.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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HOUSTON’S: This long-standing go-to spot for classic American fare serves one hell of a veggie burger. The patty—made in-house with brown rice, black beans and oat bran—is glazed with sweet soy sauce, covered with melted Jack cheese and nestled on a buttered bun toasted on the griddle. It also comes with a large mound of the restaurant’s famous shoestring fries. 2166 Peachtree Road. 404-351-2442; and other locations. www.hillstone.com.

THE PORTER BEER BAR: This Little Five Points beer bar’s veggie burger uses a homemade organic black bean and quinoa patty that is at once hearty and light. A smattering of briny feta, shaved red onion, lettuce, tomato and heady red pepper mustard elevate this over the string of mushy competitors. The kitchen opts for a focaccia style bun encrusted with caramelized onions. And each burger comes with the much-improved garlicky fries or an arugula salad. 1156 Euclid Avenue. 404-223-0393. www.theporterbeerbar.com.

VEGGIELAND RESTAURANT: Join the throngs of regulars at this tiny and hidden vegetarian restaurant in Buckhead. Veggieland makes its own patty with oats, brown rice and other secret ingredients. Depending on your preference, the restaurant fries the patty to a crunchy crisp or griddles it before placing it on a whole wheat bun. The burger comes with your choice of trimmings—guacamole, vegetarian cheese, etc.—and a side of sweet potato fries. Try it with a smear of the tofu-based “Ranch” dressing for a little tang. 211 Pharr Road. 404-231-3111.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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Although he is the owner of Method Coffee Bar & Tea Lounge (1593 North Decatur Road. 404-549-8942. www.methodcoffeebar.com), Don Lowell insists Dale Donchey is the mastermind behind the operation. Donchey placed third in this year’s Southeastern Regional Barista Championship and is going to Portland for the Nationals in March.

The coffee shop’s name comes from its devotion to methodology from beans to brew. Method sources all of its coffee beans from Intelligentsia, the lauded Chicago roaster whose “direct trade” sourcing philosophy and commitment to quality has made it the preferred bean for discerning coffee drinkers. The coffee shop serves an ever-changing handful of varietals in a range of prices, which the seasoned (and super friendly) baristas will describe to you in such romantic detail you’d think you were discussing wine with a seasoned sommelier.

While the coffee shop brews its espresso on a top-of-the-line La Marzocco machine, its use of Chemex coffeemakers is the draw for aficionados. The Chemex method employs a heat-resistant, non-porous glass carafe with a special unbleached paper filter. The coffee grounds are slowly saturated with hot water resulting in a clean cup of coffee where each note shines. Method “pre-doses” (or pre-measures) each bean varietal accordingly to achieve the perfect strength and balance of flavor. Each dosage of whole beans is stored in an individual glass bottle until it is ground to order and brewed drip by precious drip before your eyes.

Tea is another area where Method excels as they treat and present their impeccably chosen whole leaf teas with great care. An assortment of Vosges sipping chocolate—like the spicy Aztec—is perfect for chocolate junkies and kids alike. And a short, but sweet list of locally made pastries from tattooed baker Larisa Slaughter provides that much needed nibble as you linger, sip and type.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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MING’S BAR B Q: This undisputed king of authentic Chinese staples—including Peking duck—makes some killer rice plates. Any dish using the superb honey roasted BBQ pork is a sure thing. The “Young Chow Fried Rice” is a simple version laced with carrots, peas, pork, shrimp, bean sprouts and just enough oil to coat each grain of rice in a sumptuous slickness. But there are numerous other fried rice plates to suit any craving that strikes you. 5150 Buford Highway, Doraville. 770-451-6985.

PENANG: Buford Highway regulars flock to this ethnic staple for some of the best Malaysian cuisine in Atlanta. However, the Thai dishes—especially the fried rice—deserve some recognition. The “Thai Fried Rice ” appears in a mound of stir-fried rice, chicken, shrimp and vegetables tinted red from a spicy paste made with lemongrass. Another worthy order is the “Pineapple Fried Rice,” which is stuffed with shrimp, fatty cashew nuts, eggs and shrimp paste, and served in a hollowed out pineapple half. 4897 Buford Highway. 770-220-0308. www.penangatlanta.com.

V1 BBQ & CAFÉ: V1’s version of “Yong Chow Fried Rice” has all the usual suspects—roast pork, shrimp, egg, green onions, peas and carrots—but the Chinese sausage takes it to another level. The kitchen’s light hand with the soy sauce allows the ingredients to shine. 3940 Buford Highway, Duluth. 770-623-1136.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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IN THE MIX: Mixologist Sasha Petraske

SPEAKEASY SWAGGER: World renowned mixologist, Sasha Petraske—of Milk and Honey and Little Branch fame—brings a piece of New York to the new W Hotel in Downtown Atlanta. Petraske has enlisted the always-stylish and incredibly talented Eric Simpkins, formerly of Trois, who fits perfectly with Petraske’s philosophy and vision. While the approach to drink making is decidedly old-fashioned, the decor is anything but. The W’s signature contemporary touches abound, from the sleek construction materials to the long low-profile tables surrounded by wide retro-modern chairs. Vintage influences pop up in smalls touches including the arm garters worn by male barkeeps and the well-chosen barware.

POST-PROHIBITION: While the beer menu definitely caters to the hotel set, the range of obscure boutique spirits is bound to impress even the most seasoned cocktail aficionados. All of the mixers—like ginger ale and apple juice—are freshly made in-house. The ice—yes, ice—is the coolest feature. An illuminated 150-pound block sits at the center of the bar and is chipped to order “Basic Instinct” style. Other varieties—including spears and spheres—are used depending which drink you choose. Early favorites include “The Bees Knees”—a delicate gin-based concoction ripe with clover honey—and anything made with emulsified egg whites. Feeling a bit peckish? Hungry imbibers can happily nibble on a small selection of dishes from the neighboring BLT Steak kitchen.

Drinkshop, 45 Ivan Allen Jr. Blvd. 404-582-5800. Mon.-Sat., 7p.m.-2:30a.m.; Sun., 7p.m.- 12:30a.m. www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels/index.html.

(Photo by Ben Rose Photography)

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