Omnivore Atlanta

There is something so deliciously primal about tearing a hunk of chicken off the bone with your bare hands, folding it into a warm tortilla with a spoonful of salsa and devouring it. What can I say? This Mexicana loves her chicken, which means I was delighted to discover El Pollo Regio (5499 Buford Highway, Doraville. 770-458-9663; 10471 Alpharetta Street, Roswell. 770-552-5466. www.elpolloregio.com).

Naturally, the “Pollos asados al carbon” (char-grilled chicken) is the thing to order. This bird soars high above the other chicken spots lining the highway because of its lip-smacking marinade. The most information I could get is that they use Achiote paste, an earthy and thick red paste made from ground annatto seeds that is normally mixed with an acid like citrus or vinegar. The juiciness of the chicken and flavor imparted by the flames charring the marinade make for, as my friend put it, “some badass chicken.”

An order of the whole chicken ($12.99) comes with a container of rice flavored with tomato broth, a bowl of smoky “Charro” pinto beans, a piquant salsa verde creamy with avocado, large chunks of sticky sweet charred onions, a fresh salsa roja, a couple of limes and a stack of locally made and all-natural El Milagro tortillas. If you don’t have the time to sit down and contend with a bone-in chicken meal, the “Taco Regio” ($4.00) is a great choice. The oversized tortilla is coated with oil and grilled to make it pliable, then filled with an abundance of finely minced grilled chicken, a layer of crema Mexicana (Mexican sour cream) and guacamole. Add a charred jalapeno, some salsa and a squirt of lime and you’ve got a one-handed meal guaranteed to satisfy.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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ALON’S BAKERY AND MARKET: This widely loved bakery’s assortment of mini cookies is proof that the best things often come in small packages. Chewy and gooey Krakovskis—raspberry preserves sandwiched within an almond-based cookie—and crumbly Mexican wedding cookies are displayed alongside the occasional specials of French macaroons and hamantashens. Lazy bakers will love the convenience of buying a tube of dough—like the chocolate chunk pecan—to bake at home and pass off as your own. Our lips are sealed. 1394 North Highland Avenue. 404-872-6000; 4505 Ashford Dunwoody Road. 678-397-1781. www.alons.com.

HENRI’S BAKERY: Henri’s doesn’t try to be overly fancy, but it churns out every classic sweet imaginable to an extremely loyal clientèle. Gingerbread men (and women), thumbprint cookies dotted in a spectrum of pastel icing and every other cookie you can imagine sit side by side in the colorful case. The bakery also makes plenty of fun cookies for holidays, such as a large sugar cookie decorated with romantic sentiments to let your valentine know just how sweet he or she is. 61 Irby Avenue. 404-237-0202; 6289 Roswell Road. 404-256-7934. www.henrisbakery.com.

THE COOKIE STUDIO: The owners of The Cookie Studio approach every cookie recipe with a scientific approach until their ideal is met. An example is their pitch-perfect chocolate chip cookie, which the bakers worked on for eight months. A simple sugar cookie exhibits the proprietors’ skill. It’s everything you could ever want in a sugar cookie: crumbly, soft and just sweet enough without being cloying. 747-C East College Avenue. 404-373-8527. www.thecookiestudio.net.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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SERENITY NOW: This cozy Oakhurst spot proves wine bars don’t have to be pretentious. The restored Scottish Rite Hospital has transformed into a low-key hangout decorated with a mix of antiquish furniture and dark walls covered in paintings by local artists from the adjoining gallery—the best spot is the window-filled room where you can gaze out onto the sleepy neighborhood.

WET YOUR WHISTLE: Wines are sold in four tiers available by the glass or bottle. The selection won’t wow connoisseurs, but has a smart mix of New and Old World varietals. The bar also has an impressive list of small-batch spirits and Hot Buttered Rum from the seasonal cocktail menu is a nice way to take the edge off the cold weather.

A MATTER OF TASTE: The menu includes straightforward dishes such as bruschetta, macadamia nut encrusted scallops and baked tilapia – hardly revolutionary – but the chef’s cheese plate would be perfect alongside a glass of wine.

Palate Wine Bar, 321 West Hill Street, 404-373-4702. Sun.-Tue., 6p.m.-10p.m.; Wed.-Thu.; 6p.m.-11p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 6p.m.-12a.m. www.palatewinebar.com.

(photo courtesy Palate Wine Bar)

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The Cafe At Pharr (316 Pharr Road. 404-238-9288, and other metro Atlanta locations) was started in back 1992 by Shirley and Mike Liu, who retired in 1998 and handed the business over to their enthusiastic son, Johnny. You can’t miss him when you arrive; just look for the guy with the permanent smile on his face.

What sets this tiny lunch spot apart is its simplicity, consistency and commitment to healthy eating. Almost everything on the menu is made from scratch daily and surprisingly low in fat. The Café bakes its own bread every morning and uses no preservatives. Ask any regular and they’ll tell you they come for the assortment of chicken salads, available as a sandwich ($7.50) on your choice of white, wheat, multigrain, baguette and croissant or as a salad plate ($9) with romaine lettuce, shredded carrots, sliced tomatoes, two pieces of soft baguette and the café’s special ginger dressing that has no oil or fat. Both the sandwich and the salad plate come with a handful of chilled seedless red grapes and the café’s signature and strangely addictive “Yogurt rolls,” a fluke turned staple using leftover croissant scraps that are baked off, filled with a semi-sweet German gelatin mixed with yogurt and sliced.

One of the most popular salads is the celery chicken, a minimalist approach to chicken salad with chicken, celery, spices and mayo. I always go for the curry chicken salad made with a secret curry sauce, a touch of mayo and chopped chicken. The celery-laced tuna salad is another simply made favorite that actually tastes like old-fashioned tuna salad—not an abundance of overcomplicated ingredients for show. Liu says he only adds enough to hold the base together because health is paramount. One diner actually lost 40 pounds by eating every meal at the Café except for breakfast on what they called the “Café Pharr diet.” Who needs Subway?

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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Soft white sandwich bread gets a bad rap. Health nuts extol the virtues of breads packed with grains and seeds. Food snobs prefer crusty artisan loaves and consider white bread an affront to their delicate sensibilities. Well, I say white bread absolutely has its place in everyone’s kitchen. Sandwiches such as egg salad, BLT, grilled cheese and PB&J simply aren’t the same without white bread’s soft, formfitting goodness.

Now I’m not talking about any old white bread here. I’ve tried almost every grocery store brand and none approaches Japanese shokupan, also known as milk toast or milk bread. It only takes one aromatic whiff to let you know how radically different it is from its spongy Wonder Bread cousin. Shokupan is an intricate series of airy and buttery layers. The golden crust is just thick enough to provide some structure without having to run interference if you’re eating it untoasted. When it is toasted, the bread resembles a crème brulee with its shattering crust and creamy insides. It’s a beauty to behold.

Many local Japanese and Korean bakeries make some version of shokupan. Although each bakery has its own twist on the shape, height and size, the insides are always intoxicatingly similar.

Check out the list below to find a shokupan bakery near you.

BAKERY CAFE MAUM: 7130 Buford Highway, Doraville. 770-263-7447; and other locations. www.bakerycafemaum.com.

JOLI KOBE BAKERY & BISTRO: 5600 Roswell Road. 404-843-3257; 1545 Peachtree St., Suite 115. 404-870-0640. www.jolikobe.com.

MOZART CAFE AND BAKERY: 5301 Buford Highway. 770-936-8726, and other locations.

TOMATO JAPANESE GROCERY: 2086 Cobb Parkway, Smyrna. 770-933-0108; 7124 Peachtree Industrial Blvd., Norcross. 770-263-7838.

WHITE WINDMILL BAKERY AND CAFÉ: 2550 Pleasant Hill Road, Duluth. 678-584-0000; and other locations.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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PUBLIC HOUSE: Most taverns have that worn in feel from years of drunken revelry, but Marlow’s Tavern — a chain with locations all over metro Atlanta — aims for spruced up décor with a laid back vibe. Contemporary touches such as clusters of black-and-white photos in glossy black frames, modern light fixtures, and discretely placed plasma televisions create a posh feel. Sleek, however, doesn’t equal cold here. Cozy dark wood booths and brick walls add the kind of warmth that begs you to linger. Plus, the staff is friendly and attentive.

LIBATIONS: Beers — ubiquitous brands, regional microbrews and imports — abound. Since this is a tavern, the wine selection is small and middling. But the long list of signature and classic cocktails, including a Dirty Vodka Martini made with Level vodka available in “filthy,” is the thing to order here. Look for the seasonal hot drink menu (made with and without alcohol), with choices such as Marlow’s Nip — Caribou coffee spiked with brandy, Kahlua and chocolate liquor.

RAISING THE BAR: The menu holds many familiar pub grub dishes with a slightly upscale twist. Some entrees verge on too creative, so stick with the basics. Filling starters such as crunchy kettle chips topped with blue cheese, scallions, bacon and tomatoes are perfect for sharing with friends. Burgers are always a safe bet, as are a side of hand-cut fries, also available as a starter topped with truffle oil and Parmesan.

Marlow’s Tavern, 950 W. Peachtree St., Suite 215. 404-815-0323. Sun.-Wed., 11:30 a.m.-midnight; Thurs.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.- 2 a.m. www.marlowstavern.com.

(Photo courtesy Marlow’s Tavern)

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HUNGRY LIKE THE WOLF: Presto's meaty Bandeja Paisa

One of the best ways to get to know a country is through its cuisine. The ingredients, cooking methods, serving vessels and customs provide great insight into a country’s soul. Travel, unfortunately, necessitates money and time — something most of us have precious little of these days. That doesn’t mean exploration is out of the question, however. Feel like tasting Colombia? Take a “trip” there via Presto Latin Restaurant (1392-B Roswell Road, Marietta, 770-973-2196, www.prestorestaurant.com).

The breadth of Presto’s menu is impressive and the staff is always willing to help you you navigate the offerings despite its sometimes limited English. (more…)

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JCT KITCHEN & BAR: JCT’s vegetable plate is just what we crave when the spectrum of brown winter foods has grown tiresome. Chef Ford Fry uses an assortment of seasonal vegetables from the Local Farmstand located outside of Star Provisions and cooks them with great care. Fry adds some heft to the dish with the addition of pillowy homemade gnocchi as a base. The dish is finished with a buttery sauce made with chicken stock. A vegetarian version using white wine is also available. 1198 Howell Mill Road, Suite 18. 404-355-2252. www.jctkitchen.com.

RIA’S BLUEBIRD: Chef/owner Ria Pell’s Brisket Breakfast is not only soothing, but a guaranteed hangover killer. Pell slow cooks the brisket for 14 hours and uses the braising liquid to create a spicy tomato broth. The broth is ladled into a large bowl and topped with chunks of the fork-tender beef and two poached eggs. The combination of the silky broth, rich egg yolks, buttery beef, and crunch of the accompanying toasted baguette creates an orgy of textures in each bite. It’s had us hooked since we first tried it years ago. 421 Memorial Drive. 404-521-3737. www.riasbluebird.com.

SOTTO SOTTO RESTAURANT: Hearty pastas with rich meat sauces are a no-brainer when there’s a chill in the air. One of our favorites is Sotto Sotto’s Lasagnette alla Bolognese, a sort of free-form lasagna. Chef/owner Riccardo Ullio takes the long strands of homemade lasagnette pasta (a lasagna and pappardelle hybrid) and tops them with a slow-cooked traditional Bolognese sauce (made with veal, pork, beef and bits of charcuterie) and creamy bechamel sauce. He then flash bakes the dish in the restaurant’s wood-burning oven to marry the flavors. 313 N. Highland Ave. 404-523-6678. www.sottosottorestaurant.com.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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CASUAL CHARACTER: Craftbar — the more casual little brother of Tom Colicchio’s Craft located on the building’s first floor — is a nice alternative for something low-key and less expensive. The restaurant’s decor has an organic yet refined feel: Wood walls meet industrial accents such as dangling lightbulb clusters and dark metal. The open kitchen placed near the entrance of the restaurant makes for an entrancing dinner show.

CRAFTY COCKTAILS: A drink binder houses a wide selection of wines from around the world, an impressive list of spirits such as grappa, eau-de-vie, scotch, rum, tequila, and a handful of original cocktails. Favorite drinks included the Sunshine Squeeze #1 — fresh ginger, Ketel One vodka, Depaz cane syrup and lemon and lime juice — and the herbaceous and playfully named Tom’s Collins made with Hendrick’s gin, Fever Tree Bitter Lemon and a fresh slice of cucumber.

COMFORT CUISINE: A tiny cast-iron pot filled with perfectly diced steak tartare crowned with a raw egg comes with golden brown gaufrette potato chips. Large ricotta meatballs are packed into a cozy bowl alongside wide ribbons of fresh pappardelle enrobed in a deep red tomato sauce and topped with snowflakes of Parmesan cheese. S’mores made with homemade salted graham crackers, marshmallows and dark chocolate are almost too pretty to eat.

Craftbar, the Mansion on Peachtree, 3376 Peachtree Road. 404-995-7580. Sun.-Thurs., 5:30-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5:30-11 p.m. www.craftrestaurant.com/craftbar.html.

(Photo courtesy Photos.com)

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MOO-CHOS FOR LESS: The $18 Rivieria burger

There’s no debating the burger trend sweeping the country. One could say the economy’s dive has stimulated our craving for nostalgic — and cheap — foods. Whatever the case, Americans are burger crazy and Atlanta chefs are cashing in.

Arnaud Berthelier, executive chef at the Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton in Buckhead (3434 Peachtree Road, 404-237-2700. www.ritzcarlton.com), is one of the newest players on the burger scene. The Dining Room has long been a paragon of excellence, but who can actually afford the extravagance these days? Berthelier has debuted a special burger menu with optional beer pairings by sommelier Robert Evans and manager Claude Guillaume for the Lobby Lounge, available daily from 11 a.m. to midnight. So you can get a piece of the action for a relatively cheap price, considering the Dining Room’s tasting menu starts at $90 per person.

Burgers are served on buttery brioche buns and all — minus the sliced duck confit burger — are made with Strube Ranch American Kobe beef custom-ground to the chef’s specifications. Each burger, except for the Cadillac, comes with golden waffle-cut fries.

Prices start at $16 for the Classic, a monstrous hand-formed patty of juicy beef topped with gooey and earthy Vermont cheddar, crunchy slices of Applewood bacon, and mayo with a hint of sherry. The Rivieria ($18) is just as hearty as its mates, but lighter in impact thanks to the peppery arugula, tangy tomato confit, mozzarella and Parmesan. If you do decide to splurge, there’s the $65 Deluxe, made with seared foie gras, sliced truffle, aged Comté, bibb lettuce and merlot sauce.

The only downside to the burgers is their presentation. Each creation is placed in a narrow paper-lined poplar box that, while slick, makes the eating experience cumbersome. It can be difficult to extract the burger with all of its components intact, but the flavor is well worth the work.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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BABETTE’S CAFÉ: Chef/owner Marla Adams’ swoon-worthy shoestring fries beckon at this cozy and classic French-Mediterranean restaurant. Adams’ gorgeous fries are her homage to a version she had in Istanbul as a child. She credits the dryness of the fry’s interior and golden exterior to soaking the potatoes until almost no starch remains. The crispy potatoes are served in a towering pile alongside hearty dishes such as grilled herb-crusted lamb chops with a red wine reduction. 573 N. Highland Ave. 404-523-9121. www.babettescafe.com.

FLOATAWAY CAFÉ: The restaurant takes its produce and preparation seriously, and that’s evident in its perfectly executed pommes frites. The freshly cut fries have an intense potato flavor — likely a result of the restaurant’s notoriously impeccable sourcing. But the real reason these spuds are so addictive is their ever so subtle sweetness. The fries are offered à la carte or on the side of a smoky wood-grilled hanger steak that’s consistently cooked to the correct temperature. 1123 Zonolite Road, Suite 15. 404-892-1414. www.starprovisions.com.

MUSS & TURNER’S: Skip the chips the next time you visit this sandwich heaven and go for the house-made French fries instead. The fries are cut daily, given a quick soak, blanched, fried to a golden crisp and served in a massive — emphasis on massive — paper-lined bowl. It’s more than enough for two people. Ketchup will do, but one of the house-made dipping sauces such as Sriracha aioli, thyme aioli or remoulade take the fries to another level. 1675 Cumberland Parkway, Suite 309, Smyrna. 770-434-1114. www.mussandturners.com.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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MEMORY LANE: Thanks to a recent renovation, the previously dingy digs of the 49-year-old Midtown institution are welcoming once again with plenty of deliciously tacky old-school charm to go around. Each of the 32 state-of-the-art lanes has an assigned table for congregating; an Atari-esque kiosk with various service call buttons; and a mounted TV monitor — complete with those wonderfully cheesy animated bowling shorts — that tallies and boasts which player is the current “Kingpin.”

GUTTER BOMBS: Basic and obscenely cheap items such as hot dogs, burgers, hand-battered wings, fried fish baskets and funnel cakes abound on the large menu. But there’s something simply irresistible about the “Big Nasty,” a sinfully messy and greasy heap of French fries, tater tots and homemade potato chips topped with chili, nacho cheese and pickled jalapeños. Check out the lunch special Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-2 p.m., which includes lane rental, those bitchin’ shoes, your pick from a handful of menu items and a fountain drink for $11.75.

BEER FRAME: This bowling alley doesn’t play around when it comes to booze. The fully stocked bar has an impressive list of more than 84 beers from all over the world, wines, an extensive selection of liquors, and shot specials to warm up your arm and give you the courage to bust out that impression of Jesus from The Big Lebowski. They even sell towels to shine your ball if you’ve forgotten your prop at home.

Midtown Bowl, 1936 Piedmont Circle. 404-874-5703. Daily, 9 a.m.-3 a.m. www.midtownbowl.com.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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PIE TASTERS: The Grande Max

Returning holiday gifts at the mall is my own version of hell. But there I was at Lenox and, to make matters worse, my stomach was violently growling. The food court wasn’t an option, so I texted my friends for ideas. One person reminded me Pizzeria Venti (2770 Lenox Road. 404-228-2013. www.pizzeriaventi.com) had recently opened down the road.

The restaurant’s a franchise, with locations scattered throughout the country. The staff here was genuinely enthusiastic about the menu and the food coming out of the kitchen looked tasty. Pizzeria Venti’s specialty is pizza al taglio, roughly translated to “pizza by the cut.” The handmade pizza ($3-$4.50/slice and $15-$22.50/pan) is cut into squares, heated in a special oven and served on a nifty metal dish. The sauce didn’t taste overly processed and the cheese had a nice roundness to it, but I just couldn’t get past the Pizza Hut-like thick crust. The Timpanini ($6.50), however, showed promise. It resembled a round, deflated calzone and came with a side of marinara for dipping. The pillowy crust was slightly sweet and the provolone, mozzarella, pecorino and herbs filling was creamy, yet light.

Lasagna al forno ($7.75) — which a staff member couldn’t stop raving about — had the perfect amount of cheese and a tasty meat sauce. My favorite item was a side of tender and well-seasoned meatballs ($4 for three). Bocce Balls ($7 for three) are a fun and decadent take on the same meatballs: They’re wrapped in pizza dough with marinara and cheese and baked until the crust is golden brown. My one bite of Dutch fudge cookies and cream gelato from the large assortment showed promise; it was thick, creamy and without one ice crystal to be found.

In short, the restaurant’s no culinary revelation, but it’s a great option for harried folks looking for a hearty bite at a good price.

(Photo by Joeff Davis)

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TAQUERIA EL REY DEL TACO: Skilled matrons of the kitchen knock out fresh tortillas while gossiping and laughing. And those fresh tortillas and the exceptional salsas—both smoky roja and creamy verde—are the reason to visit. Tacos filled with chivo (goat) or cabeza (beef cheeks) are exceptional. And no table is complete without a massive goblet of vibrant red seafood cocktail studded with chopped onions and cilantro. 5288 Buford Highway. 770-986-0095.

LA OAXAQUENA TAQUERIA: The main draw for most at this perennial favorite is the large tlayuda—think Mexican-style “pizza” made on an enormous tortilla from the Oaxaca region of Mexico. Tacos—like the tender cabeza—arrive atop a large, fresh tortilla finished with a charred baby onion and lime wedge for a perfect contrast against the fatty beef. The salsa bar (Atlanta’s best) is pristine and offers a wide variety of freshly made toppings. The restaurant is expanding to a new location across the street any day now—call ahead. 6738 Tara Boulevard, Jonesboro. 770-960-3010.

GORDITA’S LA RANCHERITA: Every corn-based item is made by hand with fresh masa. Impossibly fluffy (and large) tortillas come with taco fillings such as fatty crumbled chorizo or the shredded pieces of goat barbacoa in an earthy red sauce. The gorditas are the best I’ve encountered outside of Mexico. Each is crisp on the outside for structure but has that essential layer of soft masa that tells you it’s fresh. Tip: the bakery next door sells a killer flan that is sliced to order. 2055 Beaver Ruin Road, Norcross. 678-206-0107.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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At first glance, the Westside Garden Market (1954 Howell Mill Road. 404-609-9666. www.westsidegardenmarket.com) may seem a little bare bones. But don’t let that deter you. Owner Majid Elmaliki has amassed a treasure trove of local artisanal products, imported gourmet goods and a wide variety of certified organic produce. Although Atlanta’s Westside already has its share of wonderful gourmet specialty stores, this new locale is sure to become a popular option for its extremely reasonable prices and shopper friendly hours.

Elmaliki’s impressive selection reads like a who’s who of local producers. Look for milk jugs from Sparkman’s, bags of granola and freshly baked bread from Magnolia Bread Company, granola and energy bar bites from Pure Bliss Organics, creative “jams of love” from Emily G’s, biscotti made by Allegro Restaurant, locally-roasted Dancing Goats coffee, cheeses from Sweet Grass Dairy, the insanely good gluten-free and vegan “Coconut drops” by American Gra-Frutti, amazing Indian spice blends from Modern Day Masala and much, much more. Imported items—such as cans of San Marzano tomatoes, large bags of Italian pasta, high-quality olive oils and balsamic vinegars, tins of Moroccan saffron sold by the ounce and Tunisian tomato paste—are indispensable for your pantry and affordable to boot.

The market will debut a lunch menu in mid-January featuring a handful of dishes inspired by Elmaliki’s native country, Morocco. Look for charbroiled meats—such as kofte kebabs (seasoned ground beef) made with grass-fed beef from Harris Ranch Beef Company (also sold in the market), Halal lamb chops from New Zealand and Australia and chicken kabobs marinated in Moroccan saffron and olive oil—served with Moroccan couscous and a dip made with organic yogurt with chopped cucumbers. Other items like freshly made hummus and eggplant pureed with garlic and olive oil will also be available as menu items or packaged in the refrigerated case.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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GAME ON: Most sports bars have a strong “no women allowed” vibe and truthfully aren’t the kind of place that women would want to set foot in anyway. This Buckhead hangout, however, is not your ordinary sports bar. Calling itself an “upscale sports restaurant,” the tasteful décor includes a lot of wood and televisions, as well as a see-through screen near the waitress stand that looks like something out of the Jetsons. Cigar aficionados will love the independently owned Buckhead Cigar Lounge featuring a 300ft Walk-in humidor, large flat-screen TV’s, leather sofas and dining area where you can enjoy Dantanna’s full menu.

DRINKING GAMES: Unlike other sports-centric establishments, Dantanna’s takes its wine seriously and has a 100 bottle list with 50 by the glass. If you opt for a mixed drink, go with something made with one of the freshly squeezed orange, pineapple, grapefruit, lemon and lime juices.

SURF AND “TURF”: Seafood and meat reign supreme. The menu showcases fresh seafood, organic and aged beef from Creekstone Farms, naturally raised Springer Mountain chicken and free-range Niman Ranch pork. The quality of the seafood could be better, so play it safe and order a beautiful filet with mashed potatoes, a bacon cheeseburger on a nice egg-based bun or an order of crispy buffalo wings served with blue cheese crumbles and dressing.

Dantanna’s, 3400 Around Lenox Road. 404-760-8873. Mon.-Sat., 11:30a.m.-2:30a.m.; Sun 12p.m.-2:30a.m. www.dantannas.com.

(Photo courtesy Dantanna’s)

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GATO BIZCO CAFÉ: It is easy to overlook this tiny spot with that winged biscuit franchise in such close proximity, but in-the-know locals head here for the homey ambiance and cozy comfort food. The sweet potato pancakes draw raves, but this purist orders the plain pancakes for their pitch-perfect density, fluffiness and subtle sweetness that isn’t cloying when syrup is added to the mix. 1660 McLendon Avenue. 404-371-0889.

JAVA JIVE COFFEE HOUSE & CAFÉ: People love this Ponce de Leon breakfast hangout for its retro kitsch, gorgeous biscuits, house blended coffee, and wonderful waffles. But the pancakes, ranging from plain to sweet potato to those made with nutty wheat germ, rarely get the praise they deserve. They look and taste as a pancake should – not too brown, big or gummy. 790 Ponce De Leon Avenue. 404-876-6161.

THE ORIGINAL PANCAKE HOUSE: This classic chain earns props for longevity and its incredible breadth of offerings. No matter what kind you crave, OPH has you covered from tiny silver dollar pancakes you can dip in syrup, to pigs in a blanket, to the dutch baby—a pancake cooked in a cast iron pan until it resembles a mushroom cloud before it deflates into a sunken surface blanketed with powdered sugar. 2321 Cheshire Bridge Road. 404-633-5677. www.originalpancakehouse.com.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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AUSTRALIAN BAKERY CAFE: When cereal just won’t do, start your day off the right way with a hearty “Aussie Meat Pie” from this exceptional Australian bakeshop. There are numerous styles—including a steak & kidney pie—but it’s hard to resist the original made with USDA ground beef swimming in gravy and served in a flaky crust that’s just as good when reheated back at home. 463 Flat Shoals Avenue and one other location. 404-653-0100. www.australianbakery.com.

BRAZILIAN BAKERY: The sweet items first catch your attention at this Brazilian carb haven, but the menu holds many treasures—especially the savory pastéis (Brazilian pies). The pastéis are made with a paper-thin crust stuffed with filling, formed into a large rectangle and deep-fried until it is bubbly and brown. The best versions are the “Frango” – shredded chicken in a special sauce that tastes like barbecue and the “Palmito,” a creamy hearts of palm mixture. 1260 Powers Ferry Road, Marietta. 770-818-0088.

THE ORIGINAL JAMAICAN RESTAURANT: This unassuming downtown restaurant serves some of the best Jamaican patties in the city. The crust is deep yellow from a healthy dose of turmeric, airy where it needs to be but still sturdy enough to hold the molten contents. The beef patty is the best of the bunch because its highly seasoned ground beef filling seems to reveal itself to you in layers and gets spicier with each bite. 166 Trinity Avenue. 404-525-8921.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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You may recognize Kristin Hard’s name from her K Chocolat line of handcrafted artisanal chocolates with holistic claims. Until recently, the chocolates were only available at select locations, but her new Inman Park store, Cacao Laboratoire du Chocolat and Boutique (312-C North Highland Avenue. 404-221-2626. www.cacaoatlanta.com), grants fans more accessibility. The boutique is minimalist but luxurious thanks to feminine touches such as an opulent glass chandelier wrapped in a fabric shade and elegant packaging imprinted with silver wings.

Hard’s products showcase a mash-up of her traditional French training, premium ingredients—sustainable and local when possible—and creative flavor infusions. The chocolatier obviously favors dark chocolate (which is purportedly healthier), since every item is made with an intense rendition of the stuff. Truffle names such as “Protect” aren’t cheap marketing tactics. Hard deeply believes in the health benefits of her wares – she suggests the chamomile in the “Inner Calm” to help a nasty cold ($2.25/piece). Peppermint patties are offered in a metallic wrapper ($3) or a chewier lollipop version dotted with 24-karat gold dust and silver leaf ($3). The Aztec Aphrodisia Sipping Chocolate is drawing praise for its depth of flavor and slight piquancy from the secret blend of chiles and spices. Hard tops it with a homemade marshmallow and serves it in a vintage silver cup on a silver tray. Fruit draped in chocolate—such as frozen bananas encrusted with cacao nibs ($4.50) and dried pear slices ($6.50)—show chocolate’s ability to elevate the humblest of ingredients.

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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Atlanta has witnessed numerous dining trends over the past year. But the focus on extensive charcuterie offerings at many restaurants and specialty food stores — using both in-house and imported products — is one trend we predict is here to stay.

ENOTECA CARBONARI: This little enoteca from the owners of Baraonda allows diners to build their ideal plate of Italian cured meats from a comprehensive Selezione di Salumi. Notable selections are the hard-to-find culatello, mortadella and finocchiona. 710 Peachtree St. 404-810-9110. www.enotecacarbonari.com.

HOLEMAN & FINCH PUBLIC HOUSE: The restaurant serves an ever-changing assortment of five to seven of chef Linton Hopkins’ house-cured creations — such as lonzino, coppa and pork rillettes — garnished with pickles, mustard and bread from H&F Bread Co. 2277 Peachtree Road. 404-948-1175. www.holeman-finch.com.

KROG BAR: Chef Kevin Rathbun’s Spanish-inspired tapas bar holds many treats for those looking for a Euro-style nosh. The Carne is offered à la carte so you can create a feast from a small but quality list of classic Spanish cured meats such as chorizo, Serrano ham and lomo. 112 Krog St., Suite 27. 404-524-1618. www.krogbar.com.

STAR PROVISIONS: Newly hired chef Todd Immel has already put his signature on the store’s charcuterie program with such items as a potted chicken liver mousse capped with duck fat, tangy merguez sausages with homemade harissa, ciccioli (a chunky pork terrine) and spicy sopressata salami. 1198 Howell Mill Road. 404-365-0410. www.starprovisions.com

(photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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We were sad to see Kitchen Witch depart on her broom last week. The writer, Kim O’Donnel, has left us to devote more time to her new blog on RealSimple.com. You can check out her blog here.

We decided to take the opportunity to switch up the section a little, and in tomorrow’s paper you will see a couple of new features.

Cheap Eats will now share a page with Mouthful, a roundup of places to find a particular food around town. Those of you who have been reading the section for a while may remember this feature from a few years back. We’ll also be debuting a short bar review titled Liquid Diet. We hope to give you a feel for some of the hot new bars and old favorites around town.

I’m also extremely excited to announce that Jennifer Zyman, aka the Blissful Glutton, will be contributing frequently to the section starting in tomorrow’s issue. Jennifer has a wealth of knowledge regarding Atlanta’s dining scene, its ethnic food in particular, and we are incredibly happy to have her as a contributer. Check out her Cheap Eats tomorrow about Supermarket Chicago on Buford Highway and her Mouthful on NY-style pizza.

I’d love to hear your feedback on the new features, suggestions for places to cover, or comments about anything in the Food & Drink section. Please feel free to email me at besha.rodell@creativeloafing.com.

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