Grazing: First Look at Nonna Mia
Friday, June 26th, 2009
The latest entry in the city’s pizza war is Nonna Mia (980 Piedmont Ave., 404-532-2815), a Sicilian-inspired café that’s part of a new chain out of New Orleans.
The restaurant has taken over the space last occupied by Sweet Devil Moon and many others before that. In the 1970s, when I lived a few blocks from there, it was the original location of Proof of the Pudding, now a huge catering company, which at the time also served unique sandwiches and salads.
In my recollection, the longest-lived restaurant here after Proof moved was the Big Red Tomato, a New York-style Italian café with an entertaining vibe and fairly good food. Nobody has succeeded with the location since.
I might as well say at the outset that the pizza here simply does not measure up to the standard prevailing in the city now, thanks to Varasano’s and Fritti. We ordered one of the signature pies, the Siciliana, which is topped with roasted red peppers, prosciutto, kalamata olives, mozzarella and tomato sauce. Sounds great, eh?
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(Photo by James Camp)








La Tavola
I’m pretty well known for avoiding brunch. It’s a meal that seems to pile on needless calories, lasts too long and often turns up absurd concoctions. Well, that’s what I always say on the way to brunch, but once I’m there, I often enjoy it.
The meal was great, especially my starter — a beet salad (left) with goat cheese, shaved fennel and luscious slices of nectarine, whose natural sweetness worked well with the beets’ own acidic sweetness. The nectarine substituted for the usual Granny Smith apples. Gregg ordered a Caesar salad and Adam ordered bruschetta.
We were too stuffed to order dessert but enjoyed watching a marathon runner at the end of the bar devour enough food, including what seemed to be two desserts, to feed an army of Fire Island brunchers.