Omnivore Atlanta

Lagunitas Brewing Company
Petaluma, CA
7.3% ABV

Iconoclastic brewer Tony Magee and his crew don’t need much excuse to release a new beer, and their hop-forward wheat ale is the second to draw on the current economic crisis for inspiration. “So we are all on collective disability,” says the label. “That’s cool. Let’s put some ice on it and keep ourselves elevated for a while.” I couldn’t agree more. The brewery’s website says that this beer has a nice “wheaty-esque-ish-ness,” as if they were a bit embarassed to be releasing a wheat ale, considering their reputation for big, hoppy beers. They needn’t have worried, since this is not your typical pale wheat ale.

Sumpin’ Sumpin’ pours a glowing gold beer with excellent clarity. None of the unfiltered haziness or yeasty aroma often associated with wheat beers is present. Just fresh, piney, grapefruit-y hops and some cookie-like malts in the background. Hops dominate the taste, as well, with some tropical fruit notes. The wheat malt lightens the body a bit, but not to the point of being watery or thin. There is some breadiness mid-palate and a hint of yeasty tang, but mostly a firm, fruity sweetness carries the hop flavors aloft, and all else drops away. The mouthfeel is sticky, but soft, leading to a bone-dry finish. A modest bitterness lingers nicely, and the final impression is of a buttery white wine with some grainy tannins and palate-drying resins.

Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ might be a bit puckering and potent for swilling, but it nevertheless hides its alcohol well and is thankfully not overly sweet or bubble-gummy, making it a perfect summer sipper for hopheads. Another interesting concoction from Lagunitas.

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We’re Only in It for the Money
Lagunitas Brewing Company
Petaluma, CA
8.2% ABV

For its fourth installment in the Frank Zappa tribute series, Lagunitas honors the 40th anniversary of the release of the Mother’s of Invention album “We’re Only in It for the Money,” featuring that album’s Sgt. Pepper cover parody on the label. Billed as a Belgian-style tripel ale, this “Money” pushes the boundaries in a way that Zappa would certainly appreciate. Despite a rather anemic head, a fragrant bouquet of floral hops, tropical fruits, and spice emanates from this deep amber beer. The taste of burnt candied sugar, ripe apples and bananas, and clove and allspice meld into a tasty cobbler that defines the flavor profile. More spices emerge on the back end, with ginger, pepper, citrus, black tea and a drying alcohol complementing the sweetness. Smooth, sticky, and a bit heavy for the style, Money is as complex as the music that it honors.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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