Omnivore Atlanta

Great Divide Brewing Company
Denver, CO
10.0% ABV

Great Divide celebrates its 15th year in business with a potent Double India Pale Ale aged on French and American oak to “round off the edges.” Indeed, it’s a very drinkable DIPA, with tons of malt complexity and vanilla essence to balance the aggressive hop bill.

Unlike typical over-the-top hop bombs, the initial nose carries significant fruity esters, along with brandy-like alcohol and vanilla. Floral hops, pineapple, and fresh wet pine needles round out the subtle (for a DIPA), inviting aroma. Toffee sweetness hits first in the taste, followed by a solid, resinous smack of hops. The malts, oak and citric bite of hops combine to create a whiskey sour-like quality, right down to the smoky, boozy warmth and cherry sweetness. Oaky dryness and vanilla hold onto the middle, with a pine and grapefruit rind hop bitterness rising in the finish. An alcohol burn lingers in the sinuses on the long fade.

Considering the strong elements contributed by the wood aging, the mouthfeel is somewhat raw and grainy and could be a bit softer and creamier. No doubt some further aging will help with that, as well as mellowing the burn. Medium-full and sticky, this is definitely a sipper, but balanced and enjoyable. I had no problem finishing a 22-oz bomber, leaving me warm and happy.

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Doppelbock, shmoppelbock: Shmaltz Rejewvenator 2009

Shmaltz Brewing Company
Saratoga Springs, NY
7.8% ABV

Rejewvenator is Shmaltz’ spring and summer seasonal, celebrating the barley harvest. This year’s incarnation is fermented with fresh-pressed date juice, honoring the fruit of the ancient date palm, a symbol of the Kingdom of Judea that was stamped on the ancient sheckel coin. According to Psalm 92:12, “The righteous shall flourish like the Date palm.” This is a righteous beer if I do say so. Two different Belgian ale yeasts were used, along with a lager yeast, imparting the the fruity esters of a Belgian dubbel as well as the clean, crisp fermentation of a German doppelbock.

Rejewvenator ‘09 pours a lovely cedar red with an inviting, slightly boozy aroma full of drunken plums, apricots, overripe bananas, and dates, natch. Generous hopping contributes some citrus rind and spruce as well. The taste is smooth and sweet up fron,t with brandied fruit flavors of candied dates, raisins, and figs, yielding to toffee and an ever-rising herbal hop and alcohol bite. Piney hops and anise settle on the palate with other tingly, almost prickly, spices. Hot alcohol lingers on the breath, which is a bit surprising for an under-8% beer. Banana and clove hang in the background, but this seems less like a doppelbock or a Belgian dubbel than an American-style barleywine or strong ale. It exhibits clean, crisp flavors throughout, with little residual graininess or earthiness in the malt profile.

Although the alcohol is a bit overbearing, Rejewvenator drinks like the celebratory ale that it is. The medium-full body and spot-on carbonation give it a festive character. I’m definitely going to save some for Christmas. Er, make that Hanukkah. L’Chaim!

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Larry Bell at his Michigan brewery

The craft beer industry is full of colorful characters from Dogfish Head’s extreme beer advocate Sam Caliagione to Lagunitas’ Zappa fanatic and cannabis apologist Tony Magee. Between those representing the East and West coasts respectively, you’ll find self-described eccentric Larry Bell, founder of Bell’s Brewery of Kalamazoo, MI. From selling homebrew cooked up in a 15-gallon soup kettle, Bell has become a leading brewer in the Midwest, moving into a new facility in 2003 that’s already been expanded twice and now has a capacity of 140,000 barrels. Over 110,000 barrels were brewed last year, making Bell’s the 13th largest craft brewer in the country. Bell’s is now distributed in 17 states, including Georgia, where it’s rolling out this week.

With the tagline “Inspired Brewing,” Bell’s emphasizes its dedication to craft beer excellence. Batch numbers printed on the bottle can be entered on the company’s website to get information on brewing and bottling dates. The brewery turns out 7 year-round beers and 10-12 seasonals, along with one-time releases such as the Batch series of commemorative beers. In the first round of shipments, Georgia will see the Amber Ale, Porter, Pale Ale, Third Coast Old Ale, and Kalamazoo Stout from the year-round stable, along with the wildly popular wheat ale, Oberon, which is the company’s only summer release and accounts for close to half of the brewery’s output. Because of the shortage of particular strains of hops, the Two-Hearted Ale, a brisk, hoppy IPA, will not make it to Georgia until later. “In the summertime we’re so busy brewing Oberon that it’s tough getting to those other specialties. Come September we’ll be able to offer up a little bit larger portfolio,” Bell says. (more…)

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The eco-friendly campus at New Belgium Brewing Company

Fat Tire Amber Ale from New Belgium Brewing Company in Fort Collins, CO is due in stores the first of next week. It will be available in 22-oz. bombers to start, with 6-packs and draft to follow shortly. Fat Tire has myriad fans, and it has propelled the company into the number 3 spot in the nation among craft brewers (behind Boston Beer Company and Sierra Nevada). I find it to be a decent enough beer; it is balanced and has a nutty, toasted malt character that makes it a good choice with food. New Belgium also turns out some other good beers, which will no doubt make their way to Georgia soon (look for the 1554 Belgian Black, Abbey-style Dubbel, Trippel, and if we are lucky, La Folie Flanders Red).

For me, though, the best thing about this company is their commitment to the environment. I don’t think there is another brewery in the world that takes sustainability as seriously as the folks at New Belgium. Their brewery is a model of efficiency. It runs almost entirely on wind power with the remainder from gas generated on- and off-site. The buildings utilize passive solar power and evaporative cooling, and were built using downed timber. The boilers are the most energy-efficient available, and their recycling efforts have reduced landfill diversion to only 15 percent, not including spent grain and yeast, which are also recycled. The company’s employees, who are also its owners, are deeply involved in the effort to reduce waste and save energy, and each receive a bicycle on their 1-year anniversary at the company. The parking lot at the brewery has as many bikes as cars. They also sponsor a number of green-focused events and donate 1% of their revenue to environmental non-profits. That’s commitment I will drink to. For more information on New Belgium’s efforts at environmental stewardship, check out this summary and their 2007 Sustainability Report. (more…)

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May Flowers. The month of May promises to be one of the biggest in recent memory for Georgia beer lovers: Craft Beer Week, two new Terrapin releases, the opening of 5 Seasons Westside, and the Georgia debut of Bell’s and New Belgium. Look for more details here in the coming weeks on all of these events. Then, toward the end of the month, the East Atlanta Beer Festival kicks off the Atlanta festival season. The fest takes place on Sat., May 30, from 1-6 p.m. at the corner of Moreland and Metropolitan avenues in East Atlanta. Over 120 craft beers will be featured and proceeds benefit community projects. Buy your tickets today (Apr. 29) to save $5 and avoid the long lines. They will be $35 at the gate.

French Broad spotted in Atlanta. No, not Carla Bruni. Asheville’s French Broad Brewing Company has begun distribution in the Atlanta area. The small brewery (about 2,500 barrels in 2008) opened in 2001 and has pursued a goal of creating classic European style beers with an Asheville twist. Recently they have been stepping up production, expanding into Virginia, Eastern Tennessee, and now Georgia. “We’re a little stressed here at the brewery right now,” says marketing director Matt Barnao. “We’re on a pace to triple our production from last year.” To keep up with orders, beers are brewed during the day on the company’s 15-barrel system, then the night shift comes in to bottle on a semi-automated bottle filling system. (more…)

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The Perfect Meal?: Mussels and frites with an Oude Geueze at Blega Cafe

While George W. was waging the War on Terror overseas, he failed to notice a foreign invasion right under his nose. The dingy Irish pubs and wood-paneled taverns of D.C. are being replaced by sophisticated Euro-style gastropubs and brasseries serving up mussels and frites with a side of homemade mayo or thin-crust artisan pizzas to pair with Flemish sours and American IPAs.

The District has always had a European feel, thanks to Pierre L’Enfant’s broad, diagonal boulevards and open spaces, and the height restriction on buildings that has shut out the glass and steel towers of the typical American city. But the high cost of living in the city has taken its toll on neighborhood saloons, where working stiffs rubbed elbows with government wonks and power brokers. Suddenly, the upwardly mobile are gaga over rabbit loin roasted in framboise or a terrine of veal cheeks, quail egg, frisee, and truffles, served with a $20 bottle of Cuvée du Keizer Grand Cru.

No less than three of these Belgian brasseries are located in the vicinity of the capitol. In addition, a wide selection of Belgian ales, on draft and in bottles, can be found at any number of slightly less expensive restaurants and bars serving everything from wood-fired pizza to nachos. (more…)

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The original Superbier: Westmalle Tripel

The Belgian-style tripel ale makes a great springtime beer, savored on a breezy patio with your trusty laptop, or paired with fresh spring salads. Spring tends to make me feel a little bit drunk, so I have to be careful of the velvet hammer of the tripel’s strength, typically 8-10%, especially since they are so easy-drinking. The monks of Westmalle Abbey in Malle first to brew the tripel in 1934, dubbing it “Superbier.” The current name refers to the use of three times the malt of a standard abbey-style ale.

Tripels are characterized by a relatively light color, fruity flavors, and a flowery, spicy character being more prominent than hop bitterness. Candi sugar (dextrose) is typically used to increase the alcoholic strength while keeping the body light. Belgian yeast strains contribute to the style’s complex aromas and flavors. Fruity esters of orange, banana and pineapple are commonly present. White pepper and clove spiciness from the yeast is complemented by floral hop aromas. Here are three excellent examples of the style, all widely available, one each from Belgium, Canada, and the United States. (more…)

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Terrapin Beer Company doesn’t need much of an excuse to celebrate, but this April is very special for the Athens,GA brewery. It was 7 years ago at the Classic City Brew Fest that Terrapin introduced its Rye Pale Ale, and since that time, its reputation for great beer has continued to grow. In fact, the Brewers Association recently reported that the company’s revenue went up 53% last year. It’s too bad this is not a publicly-traded company because here is a company that is certainly bucking the trends. After much delay, Terrapin finally moved into its own brewery in Athens early last year and hit the ground running, increasing its production by 37%, adding a wheat beer and an India Brown Ale to its year-round portfolio, and launching its Side Project series of limited edition beers. (more…)

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War documentaries are perhaps best made by outsiders who are able to show the nobility and suffering on both sides of the conflict. Anat Baron brings such neutrality to Beer Wars: Brewed in America, a documentary film that explores the goings-on behind the scenes of the world’s largest and smallest breweries as they struggle to win the minds and palates of America’s 115 million beer drinkers. Anat is allergic to alcohol, so she’s never tasted the beers that are at the center of the conflict.

“I think that [not drinking] has helped me in making the film because I don’t cast judgment over one or the other group,” Baron says. “I am certainly the last person to tell you what to drink or what not to drink, but beyond that, the actual war does exist in the business of beer, and that is more what the film is focused on; it is far less about the two different types of consumers, and whether Bud drinkers think beer geeks are elitist.”

Baron’s 90-minute film will air simultaneously in 440 theaters across the nation on April 16 and will be followed by a 30-minute live discussion with a panel of brewers and beer experts hosted by know-it-all pundit Ben Stein. The panel will be answering questions generated in advance from the live audience. “They have a digital network in the theaters that can accept satellite feed,” Baron says. “It’s just a really cool idea, I think, that all these people across America are going to be watching something happen simultaneously. I wanted to get people talking, and this seemed like a better way to do that than the traditional way of rolling out a few theaters at a time.” (more…)

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Take the local: Brooklyn Local 2

Brooklyn Brewery
Brooklyn, NY
9% ABV

This Belgian-style strong dark ale joins the Local 1, a strong saison, in Brooklyn’s regular lineup. This is good news, indeed, as brewer Garrett Oliver is building a nice portfolio of Belgian-inspired ales. Local 2 is brewed with honey and citrus peel and is refermented in a beautiful imbossed 750-ml cork-and-cage bottle. The Diet Coke-brown color and equally cola-like, quickly-dissipating head leave the impression of a fizzy dark lager, but appearances can be deceiving. There’s plenty of heft to this baby. Burnt sugar, roasty malt, and brown bread yeastiness dominate the aroma, with a hint of herbal spice and nose-tingling alcohol in the background. These flavors carry over to the taste, which is sweet, and slightly roasted, with notes of mild coffee, toffee, chocolate, cherry, raisin, and licorice candy. Herbal hops, the tang of Belgian yeast, and the drying alcohol complement the sweet malts and honey, which only seems evident in the slick, smooth mouthfeel. The body is a bit thinner than might be expected from strong dark ale, but the bright carbonation and clean, dry character are plenty satsifying, as is the flush of alcohol that warms all the way down. A fantastic interpretation of a Belgian ale that should satisfy both purists and extreme beer lovers.

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Green beer is for tourists and frat boys. Please show some respect; after all this is a religious holiday. Here’s a list of places to enjoy some authentic Irish spirit this St. Patrick’s Day, along with beer brewed with the same love that the Irish pour into every thing they do.

In Decatur you can bar hop between festivities at several local watering holes. The Grange Public House, which took over the location of The Angel on West Ponce, is run by the Irish ex-pat Comer family and has a homey, authentic vibe. The beer selection is above average and the menu has plenty of Irish favorites. On Tuesday they will have live music starting at 3 p.m., as well as Irish dancers at 8 p.m. The Guinness girls will be on hand starting at 8:30 with Guinness giveways. The Brick Store Pub will have the usual properly poured pints of Guinness Stout, live Irish music, and traditional Irish dishes like corned beef and cabbage, lamb stew and shepherd’s pie. Festivities begin at 1 p.m. Finally, mosey down the street to Twain’s where brewer Jordan Fleetwood will be serving a cask of cream stout aged on Jameson-soaked oak chips. The folks at Twain’s know their corned beef (it’s the home of the Atlanta chapter of the New York Corned Beef Society after all), so if you haven’t had your fill, Twain’s will also be serving corned beef and cabbage. (more…)

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Rx for Beer Blahs: Mama

Take two and call me in the morning

Oskar Blues Brewery, makers of Dale’s Pale Ale and Ten Fidy Imperial Stout, have released a Czech-style pilsner called Mama’s Little Yella Pils that should prove popular this summer. The Lyons, Colorado-based Oskar Blues has made a name for itself as one of the first craft breweries to sell their beer in cans rather than bottles. Cans are easily recyclable, more easily handled, require less energy to produce, and can be taken many places where glass bottles are not allowed, such as the park, the beach, or the pool.

Mama’s Little Yella Pils is modeled after the classic pilsner from the Czechoslovakian region of Pilsen that inspired the original Budweiser. A generous amount of pale malts and German specialty malts give this interpretation a firm, grainy body, while the Saaz hops provide a fresh, floral aroma and a crisp, dry finish. The modest 5.3% ABV keeps it in the realm of an everyday quaffer. Yella Pils is available now in 6-packs of bright yellow cans. Unfortunately, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau rejected their tagline on the can, “Take two and call me in the morning.” Don’t ask me why.

Firkin Saturdays at the Brick Store Pub

The Brick Store Pub will be tapping a fresh cask of real ale every Saturday at noon, just in time for sidewalk season. The first offering this past Saturday was the Russian Imperial Stout from Thornbridge Hall Country House Brewing Company, an amazingly rich, smoky stout with a dark-fruit tang and notes of chickory and bittersweet chocolate. If you weren’t there, you missed it, since the firkins only last a couple of days and this was the only one shipped to Georgia. Coming soon will be Gwatkins Yarlington Mill Cider, the CAMRA Gold Medal Champion Cider of Great Britain in 2002. (more…)

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RING THE ALARM: Occupying prime real estate in the 100-year-old Engine 11 firehouse on North Avenue, this laid-back tavern — formerly the Spotted Dog — maintains its antique charm. Grand mahogany accents, dimly-lit lamps (made out of copper-plated fire extinguishers) and two large arched windows give the dining room and patio some common ground. The space upgrades to the present with three large plasma TVs broadcasting the latest games

HOSE ‘EM DOWN: The fully stocked bar houses 16 beers on draft, with most of the focus on domestic favorites. A few gem craft beers include Kona’s Fire Rock Pale Ale from Hawaii. There’s a small wine list, but beer and straightforward mixed drinks are the main draw for the after-work crowd.

STOP, DROP AND ONION ROLL: The menu features the usual bar fare as well as a few stand outs, including meat loaf and “Flashing Lights Shrimp” — fried shrimp with a trio of dipping sauces. If you really plan to chow down while throwing back a few, your best bet is to go with the juicy Engine 11 burger.

Engine 11 Firehouse Tavern, 30 North Ave. 404-873-3473. www.engine11atl.com. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.- 3 a.m.; Sunday 10:30-midnight.

(Photo courtesy Engine 11)

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A trusty old dog: Smuttynose Old Brown Dog Ale

Smuttynose Brewing Company
Portsmouth, NH
5.7% ABV

Dogs seem to be a frequent inspiration for brown ales, as evidenced by Abita Turbodog, Avery Ellie’s Brown Ale, and the new-to-Georgia Smuttynose Old Brown Dog Ale. This beer pours a clear, glowing chestnut that is just about the same color as Olive (R.I.P.), the Smuttynose mascot that graces the label. A volumionous, rocky head sits atop the body and pops and crackles down to a thin cap, leaving some fine lacing. A moderately sweet, toasted malt aroma fairly explodes from the glass, suggesting brown bread crust with an earthy spice note. There are some fruity notes of apple skins and orange, as well. The toasted bread continues in the flavor profile, along with soft crystal malts, steeped grains and a faint nutiness. A flash of juicy sweetness in the center hints of maple syrup, cocoa and toffee. The hops are subdued and vaguely tea-like, with a bit of steely tang of alcohol and a chocolately orange in the clean, dry finish. Round and smooth, with a decent heft to the body, this is a delicious take on an English brown ale, wth its emphasis on malt complexity. A perfect accompaniment to beef or sharp cheese.

(photo by Jeff Holland)

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IN THE MIX: Mixologist Sasha Petraske

SPEAKEASY SWAGGER: World renowned mixologist, Sasha Petraske—of Milk and Honey and Little Branch fame—brings a piece of New York to the new W Hotel in Downtown Atlanta. Petraske has enlisted the always-stylish and incredibly talented Eric Simpkins, formerly of Trois, who fits perfectly with Petraske’s philosophy and vision. While the approach to drink making is decidedly old-fashioned, the decor is anything but. The W’s signature contemporary touches abound, from the sleek construction materials to the long low-profile tables surrounded by wide retro-modern chairs. Vintage influences pop up in smalls touches including the arm garters worn by male barkeeps and the well-chosen barware.

POST-PROHIBITION: While the beer menu definitely caters to the hotel set, the range of obscure boutique spirits is bound to impress even the most seasoned cocktail aficionados. All of the mixers—like ginger ale and apple juice—are freshly made in-house. The ice—yes, ice—is the coolest feature. An illuminated 150-pound block sits at the center of the bar and is chipped to order “Basic Instinct” style. Other varieties—including spears and spheres—are used depending which drink you choose. Early favorites include “The Bees Knees”—a delicate gin-based concoction ripe with clover honey—and anything made with emulsified egg whites. Feeling a bit peckish? Hungry imbibers can happily nibble on a small selection of dishes from the neighboring BLT Steak kitchen.

Drinkshop, 45 Ivan Allen Jr. Blvd. 404-582-5800. Mon.-Sat., 7p.m.-2:30a.m.; Sun., 7p.m.- 12:30a.m. www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels/index.html.

(Photo by Ben Rose Photography)

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Allagash Dubbel Reserve

Allagash Brewing
Portland, ME
7.0% ABV

Introduced to Georgia a little over a year ago, Allagash produces some of the best American examples of Belgian-style beers around. Their dubbel exhibits the rich caramel malt and yeasty tang of a traditional dubbel (Corsendonk and Chimay Red are probably the best known examples) with more of an herbal bite. It pours a deep chestnut brown with a nutty aroma, a hint of spice and some sweet maple notes. The taste is nicely balanced right from the start, with cola-like brown sugar sweetness, spicy bitterness, and tangy yeast all pushing through. A toffee and cocoa center tamps down the fruity esters that are more typical in a dubbel, but there are definite notes of raisin and red apple. Tart apple and citrus emerge middle to end, with a bracing herbal hop bitterness of anise and earth in the lingering dry finish. The mouthfeel is a bit thin for the style, but is consistent and clean, with a blooming carbonation. The well-integrated sweet and herbal flavors would be an excellent foil to sweet grilled meats or smoky cheeses.

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Thank You for Your Support: Smuttynose Finestkind IPA

The name might produce a snicker, but there’s nothing silly about the first-rate beers produced by Portsmouth, New Hampshire’s Smuttynose Brewing Company. Established in 1994 by Peter Egelston and his sister Janet, the company has been gradually expanding its production to meet demand and is now being sold in Georgia. Egelston, who serves as president of Smuttynose, says that they have purposely grown slowly to avoid what happened to many craft breweries in the 90s:  capacity expanded well beyond demand and became overextended. Still, their growth has been strong enough that they plan to construct a new facility beginning next year.

The Egelstons have been at the forefront of the craft beer movement on the East Coast, having opened the Northampton Brewery in Massachusetts in 1987, now the oldest operating brewpub in New England. They opened Portsmouth Brewery, also a brewpub, in New Hampshire in 1991. When a local microbrewery went out of business, Egelston purchased the operation at auction with no marketing plan or name for his new brewery. He later settled on Smuttynose, the name of a small island off the coast of New Hampshire because it had a local connection and was “a funny, quirky name that once people got, it they would not forget it.”

(more…)

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SERENITY NOW: This cozy Oakhurst spot proves wine bars don’t have to be pretentious. The restored Scottish Rite Hospital has transformed into a low-key hangout decorated with a mix of antiquish furniture and dark walls covered in paintings by local artists from the adjoining gallery—the best spot is the window-filled room where you can gaze out onto the sleepy neighborhood.

WET YOUR WHISTLE: Wines are sold in four tiers available by the glass or bottle. The selection won’t wow connoisseurs, but has a smart mix of New and Old World varietals. The bar also has an impressive list of small-batch spirits and Hot Buttered Rum from the seasonal cocktail menu is a nice way to take the edge off the cold weather.

A MATTER OF TASTE: The menu includes straightforward dishes such as bruschetta, macadamia nut encrusted scallops and baked tilapia – hardly revolutionary – but the chef’s cheese plate would be perfect alongside a glass of wine.

Palate Wine Bar, 321 West Hill Street, 404-373-4702. Sun.-Tue., 6p.m.-10p.m.; Wed.-Thu.; 6p.m.-11p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 6p.m.-12a.m. www.palatewinebar.com.

(photo courtesy Palate Wine Bar)

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February packs a lot into its 28 days, what with Black History Month, President’s Day, Valentine’s Day, Charles Dickens Day (February 7, in case you were wondering), and of course, today, Groundhog Day, representing for rodents everywhere.

I suggest working beer into the celebrations wherever possible. For instance, in honor of Black History Month, sample the products of Brooklyn Brewery, founded by Garrett Oliver, one of the few African-Americans among American craft brewers. For Valentine’s Day, sample some chocolate stouts and porters, like Terrapin’s latest project, Dos Cocoas, or Atlanta Brewing Company’s Double Chocolate Oatmeal Porter. For Charles Dickens Day, try out some traditional British ales like Fuller’s ESB or Bluebird Bitter. For Groundhog Day, you are on your own. Here are some beercentric goings-on that are worthy of your attention this month. (more…)

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PUBLIC HOUSE: Most taverns have that worn in feel from years of drunken revelry, but Marlow’s Tavern — a chain with locations all over metro Atlanta — aims for spruced up décor with a laid back vibe. Contemporary touches such as clusters of black-and-white photos in glossy black frames, modern light fixtures, and discretely placed plasma televisions create a posh feel. Sleek, however, doesn’t equal cold here. Cozy dark wood booths and brick walls add the kind of warmth that begs you to linger. Plus, the staff is friendly and attentive.

LIBATIONS: Beers — ubiquitous brands, regional microbrews and imports — abound. Since this is a tavern, the wine selection is small and middling. But the long list of signature and classic cocktails, including a Dirty Vodka Martini made with Level vodka available in “filthy,” is the thing to order here. Look for the seasonal hot drink menu (made with and without alcohol), with choices such as Marlow’s Nip — Caribou coffee spiked with brandy, Kahlua and chocolate liquor.

RAISING THE BAR: The menu holds many familiar pub grub dishes with a slightly upscale twist. Some entrees verge on too creative, so stick with the basics. Filling starters such as crunchy kettle chips topped with blue cheese, scallions, bacon and tomatoes are perfect for sharing with friends. Burgers are always a safe bet, as are a side of hand-cut fries, also available as a starter topped with truffle oil and Parmesan.

Marlow’s Tavern, 950 W. Peachtree St., Suite 215. 404-815-0323. Sun.-Wed., 11:30 a.m.-midnight; Thurs.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.- 2 a.m. www.marlowstavern.com.

(Photo courtesy Marlow’s Tavern)

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Otter Creek Copper Ale

Copper Ale
Otter Creek Brewing
Middlebury, VT
5% ABV

I recently ran across several beers from this small-town Vermont brewery and picked up the altbier on a whim. The Copper Ale is Otter Creek’s flagship beer, and the first one it produced back in 1991. A Czech pilsner and a porter are part of the lineup in Georgia. The brewery also produces Wolaver’s Organic Ales.

Altbier (literally “old beer”) is a German ale style popular in Dusseldorf, and a throwback to the pre-lager days. Altbiers have a bit more malty character and body than German lagers, with perhaps a hint of fruity esters from the ale yeast, but this is still a clean, well-structured ale. Otter Creek’s version features toasted grains and caramelized malt nicely balanced by a floral hop character and a quenching citric sourness. The firm body is consistent throughout, with a lively carbonation and a moderately bitter finish. The toasted malts and slightly sweet grains are a natural match for a burger or wings; just in time for your Super Bowl party.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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Human Blockhead nails it.

If the cold weather and gray skies have got you feeling down, buck up! It’s already time for a spring release, the return of a classic barleywine, and other random oddities.

You Blockhead! Human Blockhead, the latest in the Coney Island Lager line from Schmaltz Brewing Company, hits stores this month. Billed as a “Tough-as-Nails Strong Lager,” the seasonal offering is brewed from eight specialty malts including rye, wheat and oats, and six hop varieties that suggest a dopplebock style. It packs a whopping 10% ABV that might have you feeling like Melvin Burkhardt, who for 25 years pounded nails into his head as the original Human Blockhead at the Coney Island sideshow. The current MC of the sideshow, Donny Vomit, now keeps the act alive and is featured on the label. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of Coney Island Lagers goes to support Coney Island USA, a nonprofit dedicated to the preservation of American popular culture.

Magic Hat Spring Fever Variety 12-Pak. It seems a bit odd to offer a spring variety pack from Jan. 1 to April 1, since the dates only include 10 days of actual spring. But then again, the folks at Magic Hat often seem to have dipped into the psilocybin bag. This year’s Spring Fever Variety 12-Pak contains three bottles each of the #9 ale, Circus Boy, hi.P.A., and the latest Odd Notion, a Poppy Agave Pilsner that contains agave and blue poppy seeds. Perhaps that explains the odd release dates. The hi.P.A. is a regular in the spring lineup, made with English pale malts and Columbus hops. It has 45 IBU (International Bittering Units) and 5.8% ABV. (more…)

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The fourth offering in the Terrapin Side Project series is a porter brewed with two kinds of Ecuadorean cocoa provided by Cacao Atlanta. Sixty pounds of cocoa powder are added after the boil. the finished beer is then aged on 60 pounds of cocoa nibs, lightly roasted cocoa beans crushed into coarse chunks.

Traditional porters often have some chocolate flavors from roasted specialty malts, so the addition of chocolate is a natural extension of the style. Terrapin thankfully avoids chocolate overload to create a subtle chocolate aroma and flavor complemented by dry, peaty malts. It tastes initially of powdery cocoa, just as advertised, with some smoky malts, raisin, caramel and earth. Bittersweet chocolate and coffee notes add to the complexity.

Hop flavor seems limited to some grassy, hay-like notes and a bit of citrusy tang that may also come from the yeast. Bitterness is subdued but more than adequate to counter the malts, which are pleasantly dry and toasty. The solid, consistent body lends a pleasing mouthfeel from beginning to end — smooth and mouth-coating, with a gentle carbonation. Alcohol becomes a bit more evident as it warms, but I would be surprised if it were more than 7 percent.

Dos Cocoas is a fantastic, easy-drinking porter in the English tradition. I could drink it all day. This is no Snickers bar, but it would certainly pair well with one.

(Photo by Jeff Holland)

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THE BEST THING ABOUT THE MIDDLE AGES: Gruit ales

With the high cost and limited availability of hops over the past year, brewers have shown an increased interest in returning to early beer recipes for an alternative source to bitter and spice their beers. Prior to the extensive use of hops, European brewers typically used a mixture of plants and herbs called gruit, or grut. The core ingredients in gruit were sweet gale, yarrow and marsh rosemary, each of which contributed desirable characteristics, such as flavoring, bittering and preservatives. Brewers added other herbs, spices and plants, including juniper berries, caraway seeds, anise, ginger and nutmeg to create individual flavor profiles.

The primary herbs used in gruit also had another characteristic: They were noted intoxicants, inducing euphoria and stimulating the libido. Hops, on the other hand, were known to be more soporific than stimulating, decreasing sexual desire and leading to sleep. (more…)

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MEMORY LANE: Thanks to a recent renovation, the previously dingy digs of the 49-year-old Midtown institution are welcoming once again with plenty of deliciously tacky old-school charm to go around. Each of the 32 state-of-the-art lanes has an assigned table for congregating; an Atari-esque kiosk with various service call buttons; and a mounted TV monitor — complete with those wonderfully cheesy animated bowling shorts — that tallies and boasts which player is the current “Kingpin.”

GUTTER BOMBS: Basic and obscenely cheap items such as hot dogs, burgers, hand-battered wings, fried fish baskets and funnel cakes abound on the large menu. But there’s something simply irresistible about the “Big Nasty,” a sinfully messy and greasy heap of French fries, tater tots and homemade potato chips topped with chili, nacho cheese and pickled jalapeños. Check out the lunch special Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-2 p.m., which includes lane rental, those bitchin’ shoes, your pick from a handful of menu items and a fountain drink for $11.75.

BEER FRAME: This bowling alley doesn’t play around when it comes to booze. The fully stocked bar has an impressive list of more than 84 beers from all over the world, wines, an extensive selection of liquors, and shot specials to warm up your arm and give you the courage to bust out that impression of Jesus from The Big Lebowski. They even sell towels to shine your ball if you’ve forgotten your prop at home.

Midtown Bowl, 1936 Piedmont Circle. 404-874-5703. Daily, 9 a.m.-3 a.m. www.midtownbowl.com.

(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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