Ultra-luxury on Peachtree
Thursday, July 24th, 2008
I visited Neo (3376 Peachtree Rd., 404-995-7545), the new Italian restaurant in the Mansion on Peachtree, last week. This development is the ultra-luxurious hotel with residences that will soon be home to a branch of Craft, the ultra-hip New York restaurant.
Our meal was a mixed success. The take on Caprese salad pictured here looked good but featured a tasteless buffalo mozzarella. The organic tomato was equally bereft of flavor. It typifies much of the food here: pricey, pretty and pretty bland.
On the other hand, an entree of osso bucco was quite good and accompanied by a celery puree whose almost minty sweetness ideally complemented the roasted meat.
I can say without equivocation that the restaurant is gorgeous, with classic architectural features (sans showy theatrics) and a view of a large English courtyard garden. It has a super-attentive staff, too.
Look for my review in Grazing next week.
(Photo by Cliff Bostock)
