Omnivore Atlanta

LIVIN ON THE EGE: Ege Sushi's uni tofu

On a bright fall day around 2 p.m., Ege Sushi only has two tables occupied in its modest dining room. One by me, huddled over a bowl of steaming udon, slurping comforting broth and fat noodles muddled with scallion and nori and the occasional wisp of egg. A young black woman and an older, Eastern European-looking man occupy the other table. They’re speaking a language that sounds like a cross between Russian, German and Portuguese. Perhaps they’re speaking Russian but she has a Spanish accent. I imagine they’re spies, or doomed lovers, their affections thwarted by grand tribulations and vast distances.

The waitress appears at the table, answering requests with a short nod and an enthusiastic “Hai!” As I look around the room at the slightly shabby but comfortable brown décor — sushi bar stretching down one side of the room, a lone beer tap standing over a keg refrigerator at the back of the room (pouring Sapporo), signs handwritten in Japanese — I realize I could be almost anywhere in the world. The authenticity of the food and the Japanese staff suggest we could be in Anytown, Japan. But the international clientele and the place’s almost transitory feel indicate that we could be in any city large enough to support small pockets of intercontinental authenticity.

In fact, we’re in a strip mall in Marietta.

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(Photos by Jennifer Zyman)

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Every few months, my sister and I inevitably find ourselves debating which three cuisines we could eat for the rest of our lives if we had to choose. Typing it makes the whole thing seem ridiculous since I can’t fathom a scenario where we would need to do so. But the debate is always interesting because our choices evolve as we broaden our food horizons. Yeah, we are food-obsessed weirdos.

Although my sister and I tend to have wildly different tastes and appetites (I am always snacking while she is more regimented in her meal times), we both, without fail, rank Japanese in the highest position. Japanese food has everything you could want. Raw. Fried. Stewed. Steamed. Grilled. Sautéed. The list goes on and on. The ingredients are handled with reverence. Precision is of the utmost importance. And the flavors and presentation are simple, but stunning.

I don’t know how or when it happened, but Atlanta has accumulated quite the assortment of Japanese restaurants. People think San Francisco is rife with Japanese cuisine. But let me tell you something: I lived in San Francisco and it has nothing on Atlanta. My mind actually races with indecision when I have to choose a spot because there are so many options–Sushi House Hayakawa, Yakitori Jinbei, Shoya Izakaya, Taka, Tomo, Hashiguchi Junior and Nakato just to name a few of my favorites. We. Are. Lucky. And now, I found another Japanese spot to add to my rotation, Ege Sushi and Japanese Cuisine.

Continue reading about Ege at Blissfulglutton.com

(Photo of Ege’s special menu by Jennifer Zyman)

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TASTY SENSATION: "Slice fish and sour cabbage soup" at Tasty China

When Atlanta foodies first discovered Tasty China in 2006, the food developed mythic status in a matter of weeks. This was no fluke, no matter of hype or bandwagon-jumping — chef Peter Chang’s food was revelatory. Then, just as quickly as he appeared, Chang left town. Owner Yang Da He and powerhouse hostess Phuong remained, but since Chang’s departure, Tasty China’s food has gone through some major changes.

Many of the dishes Chang made so well — hot and numbing beef rolls, sharp pepper fish, wontons in hot oil — were still being served but lacked the finesse and balance he gave them. Over time, chefs came and went, some of them better than others. In the two years since I originally reviewed the restaurant, I’ve had great meals at Tasty China and some severely disappointing ones.

Just over a year ago, two new chefs took over the kitchen. It’s taken them some time to hit their stride, but these days chef Liu and chef Wong are cooking in a way that revives Tasty China’s reputation as Atlanta’s best Chinese restaurant. Their style differs from Chang’s, yet they do some of Chang’s signature dishes justice. But where Chang’s food was often a study in flavors ramped up to mind-blowing, nuclear levels, the new dishes deal more in balance.

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(Photo by James Camp)

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HUNGRY LIKE THE WOLF: Presto's meaty Bandeja Paisa

One of the best ways to get to know a country is through its cuisine. The ingredients, cooking methods, serving vessels and customs provide great insight into a country’s soul. Travel, unfortunately, necessitates money and time — something most of us have precious little of these days. That doesn’t mean exploration is out of the question, however. Feel like tasting Colombia? Take a “trip” there via Presto Latin Restaurant (1392-B Roswell Road, Marietta, 770-973-2196, www.prestorestaurant.com).

The breadth of Presto’s menu is impressive and the staff is always willing to help you you navigate the offerings despite its sometimes limited English. (more…)

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After a spring and summer that seemed like one long stampede of high-end restaurant openings, it’s nice to remember that Atlanta’s true culinary treasures are often well-hidden and underexposed. If you’re in need of an antidote (as I often am) to the expensive meals found in the gleaming towers along Peachtree, check out Falafel Café, hidden behind a Waffle House on Cobb Parkway in Marietta.

Falafel Café’s endurance is a hotbed of contradictions. The impossible-to-locate location is only the beginning. What was once a campus take-out joint mainly patronized by Life University students is now a family restaurant serving hearty Persian cuisine. That change took place years ago, when current owner Reza Gharaat took over. But still, the restaurant was reminiscent of a poorly lit, slightly grubby dining hall.

That space still exists, but two years ago, Gharaat expanded, adding a swanky dining room with brocade-covered chairs, chandeliers and a large TV that inexplicably plays a constant rotation of fashion shows and random red-carpet moments. The newer space is hardly slick, and looks as though its main purpose is to hold wedding receptions, but it’s a nice upgrade from the drab room adjacent to the kitchen.

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(Photo by James Camp)

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Star Provisions To Go: A long-standing item on an ever-evolving seasonal menu, this posh po’boy is a favorite lunchtime item among regulars. The kitchen starts with a soft bun that’s slathered in a remoulade brightened by fresh chives and lemon juice. Large Georgia white shrimp covered in a buttermilk, flour and cornstarch mixture are fried in peanut oil then tucked into the bread along with bright green butter lettuce, sliced local tomatoes and dill pickles for added tang. 1198 Howell Mill Road, Suite 100. 404-365-0410. www.starprovisions.com.

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(Photo by Jennifer Zyman)

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